gocitygo,

1stly, the red point on ur CIE chart is not accurate as u used the Display i1LT. This is a known issue. Also ur green point is also not accurate. Selecting colour space 2 on the 8G actually gets ur primaries almost spot on. So the CMS is unnecessary.

Also, I think u can decrease the Red High by one click and try to improve ur greyscale. At the moment, there is an excess of red by a bit.

However, I would not do too much as it might be off due to the meter and not the actual. After the calibration, did u pull up a greycale ramp and confirm that there is not red tint/blue tint in the grey? Also pls do pm me ur final greyscale numbers (rgb gain/offset). I suspect that the meter might be reading red too low and u might be boosting too much. There is a known problem with the display i1lt with the Kuros due to PWM and it normally either reads red or green channels wrongly.

Either way, ur methods seem correct. Good start.

On the primary and secondaries, I believe u used 100% colours instead of 75% colours. 75% might be better as to not allow the APL to kick in on the plasmas.

Bro Anfield, thanks for the sharing.

gocitygo,

My pleasure. Also when u start getting more advance, the Calman software is much better than HCFR in the options for the charts and some dynamic charts that help calibration quite a bit.

quick question... where do i get all these calibration BD like DVE HD Basics ?

Amazon is a good place to start. I have seen it in some AV shops but it is expensive. Maybe u can get one of the forumers who frequently sells BDs to bring it for u.

PM arj, mpwy among others.

i am terrible at this kinda thing... i wonder how much will it cost to have someone calibrate my sony klv40v550 for me?

Pls PM me for further details.

anfieldude sifu, i own a tosh 42 rv600e, how much does it cost to calibrate it? any cheaper alternatives?

Pls PM with details and we can discuss there.

Anfieldude,

Uploaded the printscreens on my calibration result for my ZV. Click spoiler to view. Pls let me know any improvement needed based on the result


Edit : Added Color Data images and uploaded .chc files  ZV600E.zip ( 7.65k ) Number of downloads: 34


Actually I've started my calibration using Moive mode (This mode has the lowest brightness pre-set amongst all other modes available in this tv) but the end result is the picture is quite dark and can't bear with it after few hours watching, so I've done another round of calibration using Standard mode instead and found it much better to suit my room environment

This post has been edited by darenlks: Jun 7 2010, 01:49 PM

daren,

Post the .chc file as it would be easier for me to load the data and look at it on with HCFR.

Daren,

Are these results for Standard Mode? Or Movie Mode?

The greyscale looks pretty good. There does not seem to be any data in the CIE chart. Did u do the colours?

These results using Standard Mode. The result for Movie mode is qutie similar just that it has much lower contrast but with Gamma value set to -8 in my tv setting while Standard mode is set to -9 while maintaining higher contrast and backlight level to get close to 2.2 gamma.

ehh...how to upload the .chc files ?

Edit : Found the option to upload files

This post has been edited by darenlks: Jun 7 2010, 01:42 PM

U shd be able to just upload a file in the attachment portion.

Yup, found it. Didn't scroll to the bottom enough to see the option

I've also included the calibration result using Movie mode in the zip file

daren,

The last test u shd do is the saturation shift and luminance shift test. This shd be the measures "saturation" section. This will tell if the mode u hv selected is linear at all colour saturation.

But your results are very good. All in all the display behaves quite well. Black levels are pretty decent. Greyscale tracks very well. The 10% and 20% have a blue tinge, but it is impossible to remove without messing up the greyscale.

Did u do the colours at 100% patterns? It looks like u did at 100%. I would advise u to redo it at 75% brightness to see if it is also tracking well. It is better to do the colours at 75% brightness as it is more representative of the actual real world colour luminance. Also HCFR does not show the colour luminance charts accuracy. Did u change anything after ur greyscale calibration on contrast? This is becoz, if u look at ur 100% white during the colour calibration it is almost 30cd/m2 higher than during greyscale. Anyway, based on ur colour calibration, ur red and green luminance (Brightness) needs to be boosted by almost 1%. Ur blue luminance is too high and needs to be reduced. Ur yellow and cyan luminances are way too low and ur magenta is too high. Since u hv a cms, I would suggest to bring this down. The targets for the luminance for hd colour space for red, green, blue, yellow, cyan, magenta is 21.2%, 71.5%, 7.21%, 78.7%, 28.5% and 92.8%. Ur hue for the secondaries are pretty good, the blue and green saturations are off and I doubt u can do anything about them. But I suggest u get the brightness corrected for each colour. Right now ur colour luminances are imbalanced. With the CMS u shd be able to dial it in. This is one of the drawbacks of the HCFR software that does not show the third dimension in the CIE chart.

But kudos on ur 1st calibration. The set seems to track gamma and greyscale very well and is aplus. The colour needs to be further refined.

Welcome to the club . Great to see more kaki into DIY Cal.

Be ready to poison by master Anfield.... he he

What meter you are using?

This post has been edited by gocitygo: Jun 7 2010, 09:42 PM

Spot on bro. I followed the dummy guide which asked me to skip the rest and straight to the 100% saturation patterns. Will redo it at 75% as advised.

The contrast was set before greyscale calibration so the only changes I could think of was that I did tweak around the Color setting in my tv user menu during RGB colors adjustment but decreased it back later to the original setting. Then I proceed to do the Tint control adjustment but didn't manage to get the balanced adjustment amongst Cyan, Magenta and Yellow as not able to get all of their color coordinates close to the desired values. I then proceed to measure all the primary and secondary colors by adjusting the Hue, Saturation and Brightness values in CMS, aiming to get all colors below 10 of deltaE. This was where I could see both Blue and Magenta are above 10 and the rest are good at 4-7 range. The problematic was the Blue, its reading even reached 20 ! By continuous adjusting the both colors in CMS, finally managed to keep them below 10 of deltaE. The adjustment was done pretty much based on the deltaE values as my guide . Will have to spend more time adjusting each color.

Btw, the luminance % of hd color space you mentioned, are they based on the 100% or 75% White luminance since you advise to redo it at 75% ?

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Added on June 7, 2010, 8:49 pmFollow your footstep, i2display lt

This post has been edited by darenlks: Jun 7 2010, 08:49 PM

daren,

It does not matter whether its 100% or 75% as long as the corresponding white pattern is the same value. However, there are some displays that will show different results between them. A good set shd not, but many sets do. So my suggestion is to use 75% patterns as it will a better reflection of what u will display most of the time. U do not need to use the colour and tint settings since ur set has a full cms. The one thing that I told u about is the Y value of the colours. This is the brightness control on ur CMS for each colour. HCFR does not ever show it on any chart but use the % I showed u earlier and change the brightness of each colour until u achieve the % for each one. The math is simple Y of the colour/Y of white at the same brightness. If a colour in the beginning is already inside the triangle, it means that the colour is undersaturated. There is no way to oversaturate it ever, so select a mode that starts outside the CIE triangle to bring it in.

The actual Delta E that shd be used for colour is 1994 DeltaE. However, HCFR uses Delta E UV which is not accurate for colour as it does not take into consideration the Y value. My suggestion is to get ur hands wet with HCFR then move on to Chromapure or Calman and then u can get a better representation of the calibration results.

Then do the saturation charts as that is an important indicator on what happens at lower saturations. If u find that u are getting bad shifts in saturation and luminance at different saturations, u might need to stop using the CMS as it does more harm than good.

Thanks. Now I understand better what you meant. This is helpful for my next calibration on CMS