Yes. You can set the value manually through Calman 4.3.2. The auto tuning is not as good as manual tuning. 21 points is really superb to solve the gamma and imbalance greyscale that can't be solved with 2 points cut/gain control.

Before I forgot, please send me your maybank a/c no.

So I am not the exception to this
Guess I 'll have to accept the current FL until the next upgrade.
Either a high gain screen or a more powerful PJ.

The other alternative is using duo projector to double up the fl.

What pj are you using?

Same as u.

Better to go for slightly higher gain screen, say 1.3 gain. Nowadays, I seldom recommend grey screen if you can control your ambient light. Previously I had a Da-Lite Cinema Vision High Contrast Grey Screen (very slight grey) and I feel the POP is not so good.

Did they have the same blue anomaly as mine?

Is that really the case? I've got a grey screen on the way. Still not too late to change I think. I've been projecting on a white wall(not sure what gain) in the mean time and it seems to brighten up the room quite some. Should I still go for white instead of grey?

The key is whether you have ambient light control. If you can have a very dark room then consider going for white screen.

If you have a man cave, go for 1.3 gain. It helps for 3D projector too as the output is around 25%-30% of 2D mode. In fact, some of users go for 2.4 gain screen for side ambient rejection plus much brighter for 3D. Only problem with 2.4 gain screen is narrow viewing angle plus your projector need to mount as close to the center of the screen as possible to get the max gain.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Oct 11 2011, 11:59 AM

Great. I got a dark enough room and have a non 3d pj. Thanks for the useful advice jchong & pierreye.

What is the size of your screen and the throw distance?

92" at 11 feet

Mine is at 12' distance, 92" screen.
I think you will get greater fL since your room is a dedicated one and shorter distance.
The other thing to consider is the black level, which is inverse to distance and image brightness with entry level pj.

This post has been edited by klimal: Oct 11 2011, 05:46 PM

Yesterday after calibration with Lumagen Radiance, I forgot to go into the menu and save the settings. Today, I retest the same scene and my first impression is why it doesn't have the 3D pop and sharpness I get yesterday. Then I check the menu and found out the settings is back to default. Well, at least it confirm the unit is working and not placebo effect.

I remember someone in the forum own a JVC HD250. I believe this is a must have item for you.

Bro, might need your help to tune a JVC projector in Nov/Dec. It will probably be a curved screen.

No problem. Curved screen huh. Not done to many of those. But its the same.

Anfieldude, need your advice on taking measurement for Plasma TV using off screen method. I read in other forum that mention the dark calibration for every few minutes for i1Pro is due to the temperature fluatuation. I'm thinking to put the probe on a tripod 6 inches from the screen and mod a hood to block out ambient light that will cover the probe to the TV. As plasma panel is quite hot, if I can further distance the probe from the panel, it should not drift too fast.

Also there is another issue with i1Pro too near to plasma panel. I think the FOV is too narrow and for low light reading, the sub pixel dithering might cause inconsistency in the reading. I had post in Spectracal forum regarding the distance for i1Pro from the screen to match i1Display Pro 35 degree FOV but haven't got an answer yet.

pierreye,

Its a known issue. That is one of the reasons I profile the K-10 to the i1Pro before the temperature drift occurs and then use the K-10 going forward. I hv done tests on plasmas with the i1Pro on the plasma vs off the plasma. Also a freshly dark level calibrated reading vs a non fresh dark level calibrated one. I also did some repeatibility measurements before on a i1Pro left on plasma for extended periods of time. There were differences in the readings but more in the low end where it is reaching the capability of the i1Pro. The high end is pretty decent but as u know the i1Pro does fluctuate a little as well even in the high end. While the errors are still within 1-2 DE its still annoying. I believe it is due to the nature of refresh of the plasmas (or the LCDs, LED backit LCDs) that gives slightly different readings.

The low end below about 5ft/L starts to jump more and is more accurate after a fresh dark cal.

On my plasma, I did not see too much drift with extended heat as long as I did regular recals. So nowadays, I profile quickly then just check once in a while the profiled K-10 vs the i1Pro. The K-10 checks the refresh rates all the time and the readings are almost always the same meaning the repeatibility is fantastically accurate in both the bright and dark areas.

I also know that the FOV issue is a real issue on the OEM idisplay and the i1pro more so for DLPs, so watch out. There is a UHP sync mode that is better, but I am not sure if it is available during profiling. Another LYN member is working thru some problems on this.

Since u r getting a colorimeter, I would not worry so much for now.

Also, on the i1pro the drifts in colour at 75% and 100% are almost neglible even without the dark cal.

I hope to compare the accuracy of the i1pro vs the jeti 1211 when I get the 1211, but I think the difference will be minimal but the jeti will return extremely repeatable results as it aslo checks and locks the refresh rate before each read. Also the jeti does an internal black read before each read.

Thanks for the advice. Doing 21 point color balance and gamma is difficult especially on lower IRE. Pratically I had to redo dark reading for every step to ensure repeatability.

With OEMi1D, the reading is quite consistent and repeatable after profile against the i1Pro. I found out for Panasonic plasma for test pattern at 10 IRE and below, the ABL will auto kick in. You can see that the test pattern after few seconds will automatically dim down. With OEMi1D, I can read the value before it dim now which i1Pro can't due to longer time needed to get the avg reading. At 5% IRE, it measure 0.06 and can drop down to 0.02 after ABL kick in. It's kind of annoying as it is difficult to calibrate for an accurate gamma. ABL also kick in for 85% IRE. I believe that is the reason why previously I can get consistent gamma reading when the contrast is at 60 but once I increase it to 80 to boost light output, ABL will kick in. Only way to get a consistent reading is to use APL test pattern but the AVS 709 test patterrn only had 11 steps.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Oct 13 2011, 09:47 PM