wow....now CPS members got number d....


This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Feb 18 2010, 11:40 PM

zzzzzzz



This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Feb 19 2010, 12:28 AM

could be ur car battery KO.

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Added on February 19, 2010, 9:31 pm ...I also got number. I take 1pc, I pay to who?


This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Feb 19 2010, 09:31 PM

maybe u can try ur luck in mudah.com.my, i think someone is selling there.

nope.

R.Y.D.E.C.K,
Let me know the postage cost, i'll bank in together. Thanks.

no prob R.Y.D.E.C.K , tonite I transfer $ to u together with postage.

buy u japanese rokok, like takumi father.

I can assure u if durian taste it will smelly then curut hahaha

Sounds like u have 1 big problem hahaha

The best way to check is to test it on the road for both 400m and top speed. What ever written in paper hard to compare as it varies from OEM in measuring and testing. Furthermore City is 1.5 while CPS is 1.6, as rules of thumb "No replacement for Displacement"

What have you repaired, change or modified lately? How old is ur car? It happen during cold start or under hot sun? May need more info before can suggest you what to check.

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Added on March 1, 2010, 12:58 pmWhen it shift down the RPM goes higher indeed.



This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Mar 1 2010, 12:58 PM

Nope, it's more toward ECU, Air intake & fuel delivery.

alexscm,
Did u get ur car diagnose with PDT when you first encounter this problem? If not then It's good to do as first step to trace the problem. If couldn't find any problem then we can start to look at mechanical problem.

This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Mar 1 2010, 05:15 PM

That's right the handheld device that plug into ODBII (terminal) under your dashboard is PDT. Your problem sounds like combustion issue to me, Throttle Body portion is my main suspect as the MAP sensor on the throttle body might sending the wrong data to ECU but refer to the mileage it doesn't seems to break down that early. Perhaps do some cleaning by using proper cleaner may help, the SC may able to do so.

Also the distributor coil could be the culprit as well, the reason I'm saying so is because if the coils fails to provide sufficient ignition to the plug it may cause your combustion chamber running too rich, therefore you'll feel the rpm drops or lagging. Apart from that, the O2 sensor may cause problem by given wrong data to ECU and causes wrong A/F mixture. Again refer to your mileage it's doesn't seems to breakdown that fast, but Proton quality hard to predicts.

Another possibility is Fuel pump, where it fails to supply sufficient pressure of fuel during WOT (Wide Open Throttle). There is a possibility where your fuel filter got blockage due to particle from our petrol especially RON95 and that blockage causing fuel pressure drop.

Just curious did u face the same problem since day 1?

Yes the immobilizer is built in but into Alarm instead of ECU. Meanwhile there is a seperate module for the captor.

Chip on the key is called transponder and yes the transponder required to send responding signal to transmitter (small black rectangular box next to key hole) when you switch to ACC. If you open up your key, you can see the transponder did not wired to the remote module as it place just next to it. As suggest by Spiroth you may stick the transponder on the transmitter but the location must be correct.

I suggest you to start your engine via normal practice by using key to ensure it's working before you move on to wired up the keyless startup, also ensure the key u use is without 2nd transponder.

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Added on March 2, 2010, 8:08 amProton do not have any CAN bus system yet and therefore the ECU can't lock the entire car. The only module can prevent your car from starting is the alarm and captor, which both will eventually cut off the power supply to ECU to prevent it from starting. If any thing goes wrong usually resetting the alarm should be able to clear off.

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Added on March 2, 2010, 8:22 amNumbers of waja user claim that. But for my earlier fuel pump, it served me for 8 years without any problem until the day I took it down during engine conversion. The pump will spoilt if we're frequently running very very low (nearly to empty) on our fuel tank as the pump gets very hot, thus that reduce the lifespan of the pump.

The possibility of fuel pump problem is there as it fails to provide sufficient pressure to the fuel regulator. But other than that, the fuel regulator may cause the problem as well. I remember earlier Sphiroth faced jerking problem during cruising and he solved that by installing Adjustable Fuel Regulator, he could be having the same problem like you but his running with MT, so not noticeable in rpm dipping when engage gear.

If you have a generous friend that can borrow his standard fuel regulator for you to troubleshoot then it will be good.



This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Mar 2 2010, 08:22 AM

That sceeching sound could be due to unbalance disc rotor or the brake pad uneven (due to no proper bedding). You can do a quick check on the disc rotor to see if there is any surface scrathing.

The majority SC workers are hopeless, but I can't say all of them are bad. Maybe 2 out of 1,000 is real good mechanic. Last time when my Gen2 is under warranty, I saw there is a leakage on my AT gearbox. I complained and they use silicon spray and wipe it off and tell me already fix and no more leaking. I walked to registration counter and asked the customer service guys from which Tok Guru they bought the "magic spray" from as I would like to have 1 can as well. What the mech interest more is the mod I've done and they eventually bring me to the work bay ask me about the LCP, extractor, jack up my car and ask me about the piping setup. Teh most interesting part is they test my car then tell me its very responsive and the acceleration is fast, but the actual test drive is to check my absober.

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Added on March 2, 2010, 11:04 amIf you trust me, the standard drop in is the best setup. From the photo, both ram's supplying hot air, u know why? It's because the ram is steel.



This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Mar 2 2010, 11:04 AM

Yes, after dismantling the Proton dashboard you'll have rattling noise here n there. Wrapping by using Leather is not preferrable due to direct exposure to heat that comes direct from windscreen. The original material used for dashboard is "poron", not PVC. Maybe u should change the entire dashboard instead, i bet there must be some CPS owner is upgrading their ride to 4G's.

For your jerking problem, maybe u can try to swap a standard regulator for troubleshooting purpose. Try to do those cost u less.

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Added on March 2, 2010, 11:14 amGet an used one, there're ppl converting engine. It should not exceeded RM200.




This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Mar 2 2010, 11:14 AM

You can stick with drop in + CAI, that's the best. I hardly can feel any improvement when using open pod except the improvement on air suction noise. You can always go to trusted brand such as K&N, HKS, Apexi. About which brand give better hp, my wild guess it should be same.

Lately I come across a review about standard filter vs aftermarket, which it's quite make sense by saying regardless more air inducted via airbox into the TB, the max air volume allowed to enter the chamber has been fixed by the mechanical dimension. Further to this, the A/F mixture is determined by ECU via O2 sensor feedback and it has nothing to do with any allowance of air to enter either by intake manifold or TB (control by our feet). Due to that, the standard air filter are preferred as better in filtering. But, with the aftermaket air filter no doubt will give better response for the initial surge by having more volume of air at standby and pressure to enter the combustion chamber.

This post has been edited by zenwarlord: Mar 2 2010, 12:20 PM