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 LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXIV, Come in & let's discuss about Wira

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mrhaz
post Feb 4 2010, 01:13 PM

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u guys ar..so damn fast..only 1 day already 3 pages!

bro oly, my lancer air-cond panel is kinda blur lor..everything works fine..just the panel there like got lotsa scratch..its been like dat since i bought the car..
now, the light on the left panel out dy..if change the panel ony can r? how much eh?
bem69
post Feb 4 2010, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Feb 4 2010, 01:35 AM)
Lancer dasboard mana chun
Speedo max 180km/h aje tongue.gif


Added on February 4, 2010, 1:36 ambem69, the 1.6 Wira is a good car
The engine itself is a good platform for modding, since you change to manual, the pick up improved drastically smile.gif
*
Ya shinjite, I love my car, and a lot has happened to it lah, banyak tangan already, just wish I can like rebuild it to standard status. Now, the aircon also is toyota ficd I think. Weird thing is, my car if i don't switch on the aircon, the engine easier to mati.


Added on February 4, 2010, 1:22 pmBtw, Oly, what is this thing about VDO or MMC wiring, and how to know if my car is using which one. What's the main difference?

This post has been edited by bem69: Feb 4 2010, 01:22 PM
jssim
post Feb 4 2010, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(Oly @ Feb 4 2010, 02:34 AM)
dunno...its weird...ill even check with uk mirage owner...all km/h...
*
MY BRO'S EVO ALSO 240KM/H....

BTW,bro oly,some 1 offer the evo3 subframe set to me at rm450...but now really tight on budget d...ald spend rm5.6k to do my car... cry.gif
am trying luck c can get @ rm3xx or not...


Added on February 4, 2010, 1:54 pm
QUOTE(masao343 @ Feb 4 2010, 10:06 AM)
but if u total up your entire cost + your existing wira, i think not a big difference.
and for that u get a real evo chassis, not just the engine and brakes.
i read the real evo has s tronger chassis, they have more welding points to keep the chassis together.
our proton chassis, i think even weaker than a stock lancer (and Lancer cant even compare to EVO)
*
yes, its true...but my recent wila dun need installment d...
n im juz mod it & hope can join GRA this year, cuz engine power too weak, so i need more on handling!! flex.gif

btw, yesterday after company dinner, dunno im drunk or that fella lansi, he drove a cefiro A31 with RB2xT engine tiong me all the way...when reach a straight road in front of traffic light, me n him full throttle launch the car out...n i hear the tyre of both car screaming like @#$%^ sweat.gif ...so suprise that my car still can lead him untill the next traffic light, around 0.8km distance...huhuhuhu....still worth it for few k mod lah~~ thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by jssim: Feb 4 2010, 01:54 PM
shinjite
post Feb 4 2010, 01:58 PM

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His car will get more wheelspin than yours XD
Maybe that time he can't control it properly XD
jssim
post Feb 4 2010, 02:03 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Feb 4 2010, 01:58 PM)
His car will get more wheelspin than yours XD
Maybe that time he can't control it properly XD
*
yes...u r rite....but also cuz its 6cylinder, pickup will be slower bit...(my big bro got 1 cefiro with RB20T, when pickup it juz like @#$%^ ...but top speed damx kuat~~)
afosz
post Feb 4 2010, 02:07 PM

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QUOTE(bem69 @ Feb 4 2010, 01:19 PM)
Ya shinjite, I love my car, and a lot has happened to it lah, banyak tangan already, just wish I can like rebuild it to standard status. Now, the aircon also is toyota ficd I think. Weird thing is, my car if i don't switch on the aircon, the engine easier to mati.


Added on February 4, 2010, 1:22 pmBtw, Oly, what is this thing about VDO or MMC wiring, and how to know if my car is using which one. What's the main difference?
*
If Toyota FICD, I'm guessing to temporarily solve the throttle body problem, just like mine. Nowadays, even with a/c the engine easily died, early in the morning. RPM drop kaw kaw.

Now time to change. Hopefully no more problem.
shinjite
post Feb 4 2010, 02:07 PM

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That is why when you launch, minimize wheelspin as much as possible
No use keep on wheel spinning but your car remain stagnant


Added on February 4, 2010, 2:08 pm
QUOTE(afosz @ Feb 4 2010, 02:07 PM)
If Toyota FICD, I'm guessing to temporarily solve the throttle body problem, just like mine. Nowadays, even with a/c the engine easily died, early in the morning. RPM drop kaw kaw.

Now time to change. Hopefully no more problem.
*
Have to change the TB's idling mechanism, thats the best way to solve it
FICD can't really compensate 100%

This post has been edited by shinjite: Feb 4 2010, 02:08 PM
jssim
post Feb 4 2010, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Feb 4 2010, 02:07 PM)
That is why when you launch, minimize wheelspin as much as possible
No use keep on wheel spinning but your car remain stagnant


Added on February 4, 2010, 2:08 pm

Have to change the TB's idling mechanism, thats the best way to solve it
FICD can't really compensate 100%
*
hahaha...its true... icon_idea.gif icon_idea.gif
wailup
post Feb 4 2010, 02:17 PM

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im on FICD.. what to do.. better than nothing kua.. and it last longer.
masao343
post Feb 4 2010, 02:26 PM

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anyone got the image on a stock Wira's dyno results?
curious to see at which point before power drop.
afosz
post Feb 4 2010, 02:30 PM

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I'm on FICD too, but cannot tahan early morning. Going to work at 8 something sure choking on road. Sometimes have to limit full stop. Have to move even slow. How to do, traffic jammed doh.gif If flat or downhill no problem, play N D only. If going uphill flyover, I'll be deym. cry.gif
shinjite
post Feb 4 2010, 02:32 PM

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QUOTE(masao343 @ Feb 4 2010, 02:26 PM)
anyone got the image on a stock Wira's dyno results?
curious to see at which point before power drop.
*
Normally its low end the torque is high then dips during the middle section and goes up again on the high end
So SOHC stock around 3000rpm it will drop then picks up again around 4000rpm and goes up till max 5000rpm
Power will keep on go up till 6000rpm, linear


Added on February 4, 2010, 2:32 pm
QUOTE(afosz @ Feb 4 2010, 02:30 PM)
I'm on FICD too, but cannot tahan early morning. Going to work at 8 something sure choking on road. Sometimes have to limit full stop. Have to move even slow. How to do, traffic jammed doh.gif If flat or downhill no problem, play N D only. If going uphill flyover, I'll be deym. cry.gif
*
Manual is the way to go

This post has been edited by shinjite: Feb 4 2010, 02:32 PM
wailup
post Feb 4 2010, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(afosz @ Feb 4 2010, 02:30 PM)
I'm on FICD too, but cannot tahan early morning. Going to work at 8 something sure choking on road. Sometimes have to limit full stop. Have to move even slow. How to do, traffic jammed doh.gif If flat or downhill no problem, play N D only. If going uphill flyover, I'll be deym. cry.gif
*
it shouldnt act that way ah.. are you sure your FICD is set up correctly? and did u use the correct powersource? Me morning la, hot la, cool la.. the idling is cantik ah.
afosz
post Feb 4 2010, 02:44 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Feb 4 2010, 02:32 PM)
Normally its low end the torque is high then dips during the middle section and goes up again on the high end
So SOHC stock around 3000rpm it will drop then picks up again around 4000rpm and goes up till max 5000rpm
Power will keep on go up till 6000rpm, linear


Added on February 4, 2010, 2:32 pm

Manual is the way to go
*
Manual also choking, because I fail at balancing clutch and gas doh.gif

QUOTE(wailup @ Feb 4 2010, 02:38 PM)
it shouldnt act that way ah.. are you sure your FICD is set up correctly? and did u use the correct powersource? Me morning la, hot la, cool la.. the idling is cantik ah.
*
Really ? I'm not sure though. I'll check again later, but the way I see it, it is setup correctly.
bem69
post Feb 4 2010, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(afosz @ Feb 4 2010, 02:07 PM)
If Toyota FICD, I'm guessing to temporarily solve the throttle body problem, just like mine. Nowadays, even with a/c the engine easily died, early in the morning. RPM drop kaw kaw.

Now time to change. Hopefully no more problem.
*
You changing the throttle body? I did change and the problem still there, thats why I ended up FICD. What is your solution?
masao343
post Feb 4 2010, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Feb 4 2010, 02:32 PM)
Normally its low end the torque is high then dips during the middle section and goes up again on the high end
So SOHC stock around 3000rpm it will drop then picks up again around 4000rpm and goes up till max 5000rpm
Power will keep on go up till 6000rpm, linear
oh thanks. no wonder i usually feel my torquey powerband so narrow la.
usually i shift right after 3.5k because i thought the power is all the way downwards after that.
perhaps my exhaust mod changed that slightly (moving it upwards?) but i can still feel the drop, so i upshift.
when i pull to 5k is usually when i hantam the pedal, so dont really pay attention to engine feedback (going for the loud sound only blush.gif )
later when i drive will pay attention to what u have said, and see how is the powerband like. thanks!

QUOTE(afosz @ Feb 4 2010, 02:44 PM)
Manual also choking, because I fail at balancing clutch and gas doh.gif
clutch + gas nice to play smile.gif
helps with jump starts at traffic lights and also at each gear change.
if u can control the clutch right before wheelspin, you'd get the max traction from ur tyres
but my engine cant wheelspin except for 1st gear only sweat.gif
anyway, maintaining the engine rpm at gear shifts alone is worth driving a MT
(but i understand la, in traffic jam no fun)

This post has been edited by masao343: Feb 4 2010, 02:59 PM
shinjite
post Feb 4 2010, 03:08 PM

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Masao, best way is to go dyno your car
Then you can see from there

But with mods, you can compensate it

user posted image

As you can see, mine dips slightly at 3000rpm till 3500rpm then it goes up and maintains there as I am only using stock campulley. Use my graph as a reference smile.gif


afosz
post Feb 4 2010, 03:11 PM

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QUOTE(bem69 @ Feb 4 2010, 02:47 PM)
You changing the throttle body? I did change and the problem still there, thats why I ended up FICD. What is your solution?
*
Really ? Before my mech said TB problem, so don't want to change first, suggest me to save more, use FICD at the moment then later change TB sure problem solve. I was afraid the same thing too, changing TB and still the problem is there. I've searched around, if not TB, then might be spark plug. If not, plug cable. If not, coil or something.
masao343
post Feb 4 2010, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Feb 4 2010, 03:08 PM)
Masao, best way is to go dyno your car
Then you can see from there

But with mods, you can compensate it

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


As you can see, mine dips slightly at 3000rpm till 3500rpm then it goes up and maintains there as I am only using stock campulley. Use my graph as a reference smile.gif
*
yours 4G92 wor... surely different sad.gif
but thanks for showing me.
so probably for 4G15 (mine), the power also drops after 5.5k lor? can assume like that or not ah?
shinjite
post Feb 4 2010, 03:24 PM

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After 5000rpm, torque will drop, but your HP keeps on going till 6000rpm
Mostly you wanna know about the torque only, as HP is linear all the way up for our 4G series

So torque, normally during dyno, they will start full throttling at 2500rpm onwards, at 3000rpm torque drops till 3500rpm, then gradually climbs till max torque at 5000-5100rpm and it will drop after that

But remember, mine has been modded, so around 6000rpm only torque drops, as you can see I maintained my torque even after 5000rpm, max power ngam ngam 6500rpm (redline). So its an ideal tune engine this 1 is smile.gif

This post has been edited by shinjite: Feb 4 2010, 03:48 PM

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