Guide in progress but would appreciate it if you guys could give your comments, critisim, advices, tips and suggestions on:

A) DSLR - general care
C) DSLR - storage
D) Li-Ion battery packs

Thx!

Noob guide to taking good care of your DSLR

I have decided to do this guide as I was basically unprepared and surprised by the amount of work needed to take good care of a DSLR, especially when I have splurged tons of money on it. I tried to search the net for a complete guide but only managed to get bits and pieces on this topic. As such, I have decided to compile the information into a complete guide to enable super noobs like me take good care of my DSLR.

All information are pulled from the net and references are quoted in brackets and listed at the end.

Index

A) DSLR - General care

1) DSLR Camera bag
2) LCD screen protector
3) Caps
4) Filters
5) Shoulder/neck strap
6) Lens hood
7) Batteries
8) Changing lenses
9) Moisture condensation

B) DSLR - Cleaning and maintenance (Quick link)

C) DSLR - Storage (Quick link)

D) Li-Ion battery packs (Quick link)
- important facts which most of us don't know!!!

E) DSLR bags (Quick link)

F) References

Important : Most of my pictures are Sony brand as I bought a Sony alpha 550!

Main contributors
1) ieR - much thanx for giving me much info.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 30 2011, 09:19 PM

A) DSLR - General care

1) Camera bag

It is important to get a good DSLR bag that fit your usage. It should be well-padded and big enough to fit all your accessories but still able to protect the camera in case of an accident (e.g. knock against a hard object, bag dropped, etc). Some would recommend getting one with a hard case rather that a soft one (1). Thin cloth bags are convenient but might not protect you DSLR that well from external bumps or drops.

Here's an example of a good DSLR bag:



Kindly read post #6 on DSLR bags for detailed info regarding DSLR bags.


2) LCD screen protector

Make sure you buy a good LCD protector to protect the LCD from scratches. Cheap ones would be adequate but you'll find that it will eventually get many scratches and become unsightly. A better alternative would be a "glass-type" of LCD protector as below:



Source of picture : http://www.uxsight.com/product/9581/lcd-sc...-dslr-a350.html

How to install a "glass-type" LCD protector : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNian6sDRAg

3) Caps

Camera cap (@ body cap) - Left picture below
Ensure that you always cap your camera if you intend to remove the lens for prolonged periods of time for whatever reason (e.g. storage, lens cleaning, etc).
This will prevent dust from going into the camera and settle on the camera mirrors or sensors.

Lens cap - Middle picture below
It is important to cap your lens anytime you are not using the DSLR. This will reduce the chance of the lens becoming dirty or worse still, the chance of the lens being scratched. A scratched lens would be expensive to replace and will not be covered under the normal warranty.

Rear lens cap - Right picture below
Again, if you remove your lenses for prolonged periods of time, it is important to cap the front AND back of the lens.



Note : If you go for outings, it would be wise to bring all the caps along just in case you might need to remove the lens for whatever reason. The convenient thing about camera cap and the rear lens cap is that you can screw them both together to carry as a single piece.

Body cap and rear lens cap screwed together:



4) Filters

To further protect your lenses, it is also advisable to get a clear protection filter or a UV filter to attach to the front of the lens. This will ensure that any scratches or knock to the front of the lens will hit the UV filter rather than the lens itself. In case such a thing happens, you can easily replace the UV filter which is relatively cheap as compared to replacing the lens elements.

In addition, in case your front lens get dirty, it is actually the filter that gets dirty and not the front lens element. As such, you can clean the filter without any worries. This is especially true if something sticky gets stuck in front of the lens which require you to wipe more vigorously to clean it.

UV filters are usually cheap but try not to get a cheap lousy filter as it may interfere with proper light penetration and cause poorer pictures being taken.



Good reputable lens filters available locally are like:
1) B+W
2) Hoya
3) Carl Zeiss

Note : The UV blocking function in UV filters are actually not necessary for DigitalSLR (DSLR) but only for film SLR. That's because the digital sensor of a DSLR doesn't react to UV light. In the era of SLR using films, UV light can cause blur and can react to many colour films to cause a blue cast (10).

Here a good review of filters : http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_fi...troduction.html
- the only problem with this review is that it takes into consideration the UV blocking capabilities too, which as mentioned earlier, is not necessary. However, the review do mentioned that the UV blocking function might be useful at high altitudes due to higher UV radiation.

5) Shoulder/neck strap

Every time you lift up your camera, make it a habit to immediately put strap around your neck. That way, you'll reduce the risk of dropping your camera.

Alternatively, you can coil your arm around the strap for added protection. This video shows you how to hold your camera properly including the coiling of the strap around your arm : Click here

In case you want to let someone use your DSLR (nobody touches mine!!!), make them wear the strap around their neck while handling your precious DSLR!!!

6) Lens hood

The primary function of the lens hood is to prevent stray light from entering the lens as it extends and shade the front end of the lens. This is especially true if you shoot in the direction of the sun, causing unwanted artifacts in your picture such as lens flare, decrease contrast and image degradation.

By using a lens hood, you'll also get the added benefit of lens protection from any accidental impact or bumps. Accidental touches and scratches are also reduced. However, lens hood are only usually used when you shoot outdoors under bright sunlight or shoot under extreme lighting condition as protection again impact is secondary.



Just in case you don't know how a lens hood looks like on a camera, here's a picture:



Summary of advantages of lens hood:
1) Reduce unwanted flare
2) Richer colour/deeper saturation, improved contrast
3) Protection from impact or accidental touches/scratches
4) With a lens hood, many argue that you don't need to use a UV filter (which might degrade your images somewhat)


7) Batteries

One equipment that is often overlooked is the rechargeable batteries used in DSLR (or any electronic devices actually). The most common rechargeable battery nowadays are Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) batteries which, like any other rechargables, have a certain lifespan.

Important : I was very surprised to find out about crucial important facts on Li-Ion batteries. Please read on the details of Li-ion batteries below, in the "D) Li-Ion battery packs" subsection.


8) Changing lenses - keep the dust away!

Most DSLR users (including noobs!) will usually have more lenses than they do cameras. As such, lens changing is unavoidable. As we all know, there is always a chance that dust can get into the camera every time you change lenses. Here are some tips to reduce this risk when you change your lens:

1) Minimize lens changing if possible
2) Change your lenses before you go out e.g. to the beach
3) Avoid dusty places
4) Turn off camera
5) Point your camera downwards - like you want to take picture of the ground 10 feet away (no need to point directly downwards!)
6) Change while the camera is on a tripod
7) Keep your back to the wind

Videos on how to change lenses (so easy!!):
Noob way to change lenses
Advanced noob way to change lenses (lol!)
Camera-hanging-around-neck lens changing technique
If-you-have-big-enough-hands lens changing technique
Super-glued-2x-rear-lens single-hand lens changing technique (got battery trick too!!!)
No-hands-professional lens changing technique




9) Moisture condensation

Be careful if you take your DSLR directly from a cold to a warm place as this may cause moisture condensation outside as well as inside your camera e.g. from an air-condition room to outdoors, from car to outside. An extreme example is like the time you take out a can of soft drink from the fridge and leave it on the table. You'll see beads of water forming on the can in no time!

The condensation may cause a malfunction of the camera and also promote fungi growth.

To prevent this, you can do a few things BEFORE you take it to a warm environment:
1) Seal your camera in a plastic bag (e.g. Ziplock bag or even normal plastic bag) and allow it to adapt to conditions at the new location.
2) Keep your camera/lens in your camera bag and let it warm up gradually.
3) If you got none of the above, some even use towels!

The key point is that you want your camera to gradually warm up to the same temperature as it's surrounding environment. Sony instruction manual mentioned that you actually might have to wait up to an hour depending on condition! The higher the temperature difference, the longer you'd have to wait.

If you don't know what a ziplock bag looks like, take a look below (Don't mind the tomatoes!!!):



If moisture condensation occurs, turn off the camera and wait about an hour for the moisture to evaporate. Note that if you attempt to shoot with moisture remaining inside the lens, you will be unable to record clear images (Sony instructionmanual)

This post has been edited by kmarc: May 22 2010, 05:32 PM

In progress.....

B) DSLR - Cleaning & maintenance

Cleaning kit
Buy a proper cleaning kit to clean your lenses. Please do not use toilet paper and water!

Here's an example of what a good cleaning kit should include:
1) Lens cloth (preferably micro-fiber type)
2) Lens cleaning solution/liquid
3) Lens brush - to remove dust at the edge of the lens
4) Air-blower - to remove dust particles on the lens

Alternative - lens pen

In addition, it is recommended that you bring your cleaning kit along if you're planning to go for an outing. If you do get your lens dirty during a photo shooting, you are prepared with a proper cleaning kit rather than becoming "Macguyver" and use your t-shirt to clean the lens.....

Note : Hence, make sure your bag is big enough to fit your gears including the cleaning kit!





Cleaning your camera
To a pro, cleaning a DSLR is no doubt simple. However, to super noobs like me, it can be a daunting task because if you're not careful, you might just damage those sensitive parts of the camera.

Cleaning lenses @ UV filters
The important thing about cleaning lenses is prevention.

Cleaning the sensor
If you're a noob, most people would recommend you to send your camera to a professional for cleaning the sensor rather than doing it by yourself. The sensor is a very sensitive piece of equipment and if you do it improperly, you might just damage the sensor. You also risk exposing your camera's inner workings to dust if you open it at home.


Maintenance after beach session, rain, etc....

Thx to wtm0325 for the following contribution:

Canon DSLR ViewFinder Dust Cleaning
Source: http://shimworld.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/...-ii-viewfinder/
Note: Each Canon DSLR Model might be different (eg 400D will need to dismantle the whole black bracket before taking out the glass)

DSLR Sensor Cleaning using Dry Way
Source: http://www.naturescapes.net/phpBB3/viewtop...1&view=previous
Note: If rocket blower doesn't work, a normal size lenspen LP1/mini pro (need not lenspen sensorklear) can do the job for medium sticky dust, the only con is it might not able to clean the corner dust
Instructions:

This post has been edited by kmarc: Apr 19 2010, 12:41 PM

C) DSLR - Storage

Storing your camera and lenses

If you're not using your camera for extended periods of time, it is advisable to store your camera in a suitable place. In our country where the climate is humid, the best place to store it is in a dry box.

What is a dry box?
A dry box (@ dry cabinet) is a dehumidifying system which reduces the humidity (the amount of water vapor in the air) in the box. Usage of dry boxes basically prevent fungal growth on your camera/lenses and also prolongs the lifespan of your equipment.

There's a few reputable brand in Malaysia:
1) AIPO
2) Eureka
3) Sundry

The optimal level of relative humidity (RH) for your DSLR should be around 40-45%. (as compared to indoor surroundings which is about RH 60%+ (up to 80%+ on rainy days!))

Take a look at the table below:



Source : http://shashinki.com/shop/aipo-digital-ser...aa4117e900d93d2

To be on the safe side, due to the +-1% variation in settings, it is recommended to set the dry box's RH to - 42-43%

Here's some picture of dry boxes:



Source : http://www.zhaipo.com/en/products.html?pro...D%20NC%20Series

Please note that dry box is preferable only if you don't use your DSLR regularly. If you use your camera frequently (at least once a week), the chance of getting fungus on your DSLR is uncommon.

What's so great about fungus growth?

If fungus grows on your lens, it might just eat into your lens coating and cause permanent damage by etching into the lens.
If you ever do see signs of fungal growth, it is important that you get professional help as soon as possible.
- If you catch the fungus growth early, the lens elements can be cleaned and the damaged repaired
- If it is too late, you can more or less say bye-bye to your lens. The damage is irreversible and permanent, leading to poorer image quality when you shoot pictures with the affected lens

Fungus growth also applies to your camera's sensor.

Facts about fungus and DSLR (5):

Most ideal condition for fungus growth
1)Humidity level >50%
- Peak growing rate around 70-90% humidity (which is the common humidity level for our climate)
2) Dark places
3) Stagnant air
4) Temperature between 10-35 degrees celcius

Easily infected places
1) Camera bags
2) Store rooms

Important : Do not keep your DSLR in your carry bag as a storage bag. Unless you live in a very dry, low-humidity place, the stagnant air and moisture might just promote fungal growth.

Here's an example of fungus growing on lenses:



Source:
1) http://www.sgcamerastore.com/DRY-Cabinet/A...-/prod_270.html
2) http://www.iantan.net/2009/04/what-does-ha...-your-dslr.html

Example of what happens when you store your DSLR in your camera bag in the cupboard for extended periods of time:
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-...-equipment.html

What if I can't afford a dry box?
- Most enthusiast would say you're lying as you could afford to buy a DSLR!!!
- If you're equipment gets fungal growth, the cost of servicing and repair might be more than the cost of the dry box.

Anyway, if you're really cash tight and don't think a dry box is necessary, there are some alternatives to dry boxes.
a) Air-tight container + dehumidifier/dessicant packs (your own DIY dry box)
b) Good storage practices
c) Sunbath your lenses
d) Flash the lens using powerful flash

a) Air-tight container + dehumidifier/dessicant packs
A cheaper alternative is to buy an air-tight container and a dehumidifier like the "Thirsty Hippo" or silica dessicant packs/gels.
These cheap alternatives don't cost much but in the long run (over a few years), it might add up to a significant amount of money spent.
Another better alternative is using "Reusable" Silica gel packets that are usually sold by camera shops. These items can be recycled by heating them in the oven.

This is what Thirsty Hippo looks like:



Silica gels :



Reusable silical gel :

http://www.filmtools.com/silgelselin.html
http://www.filmtools.com/pesigel15.html
http://www.desiccantsonline.com/index.php?...iewCat&catId=25

Here's my temporary custom-made DIY dry box:



There are a few problems with this method:
1) The humidity level in the box will be unregulated and the thirsty hippo might suck too much moisture. This may make the rubber seals on your DSLR turn hard and crack.
- one way to reduce this risk is to open the box regularly, maybe once a week (or even more frequent)
2) You have to replace the dehumidifier/dessicants regularly depending on how long they last
3) For long-term usage (in terms of years), you might spend money close to or above the cost of a small dry box

b) Good storage practices
Just in case you don't use a drybox and don't use the air-tight container method, it is important to have good storage practices for your equipments:
1) Don't store in darkness (e.g. store in a glass cabinet ensuring lots of indirect/direct light)
2) Ensure the cabinet has a good air-flow
3) Keep as far away as possible from leather or uncoated wood

? Don't store with UV filter in place (as UV light from sunlight will kill any fungus)

c) Sunbath your lenses
Yeah, that's right. You can sunbath your lenses (NOT the camera body!!! )

The UV light will kill the fungus (remember to take out your UV filter!)

Here's how you do it:
- Place under the sun
- lens only (do NOT attach the camera body)
- Once a week (maybe?)
- Duration ?

Disadvantage
- may dry up the rubber faster (reduce lifespan by making the rubber hard and cracked)
- may promote grease migration within the lens that could lead to oil on the aperture blades

Important : This method is rarely practiced and not generally talked about in photography forums. Do it at your own risk and I will not be blamed for any damages!!! Better do your own DIY dry box.

d) Flash the lens using powerful flash
Flash the lens - use a powerful flash e.g. f42, f58
Generates heat that kills the fungus

Here's how you do it:
- Aim your flash gun directly into the lens (without the body attached)
- 2-3 flashes is enough to kill or slow the fungus growth
- Once a week (maybe?)
- Supposedly safer than sunbath but less effective

Storage - lens on or off?
In actual fact, it doesn't matter if you leave the lens on or take it off. However, it is advisable to keep the lens on due to the following reasons:
1) Your DSLR is ready to be used once you take it out
2) There's less chance of introducing dust into the camera during the lens attachment/removal process


Storage - battery
Please refer to subsection "D) Li-Ion battery packs" for further info





Additional subsection
Naturally, you should not put your DSLR under the hot sun or in your car under that sun for prolonged periods of time as it may damage your camera or lenses.

Stated in the my DSLR manual:

PRECAUTION

Do not use/store the camera in the following places:
- In an extremely hot, dry or humid place. In places such as in a car parked in the sun, the camera body may become deformed shocking.gif and this may cause a malfunction.

Even with dry box - if shooting in extreme conditions e.g. rainy day shooting (RH 90+), seaside - can also sunbath

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 14 2010, 08:22 AM

D) Li-Ion battery packs



Facts you should know about Li-Ion batteries (11):

1) Usually have a 300-500 discharge/charge cycles

- A “Discharge/charge cycle” means a single cycle of depleting followed by a re-charge until 100% of battery charge (i.e. one cycle of depleting to 0% and then charge to 100%).
- If you consume 50% of your battery on day 1, recharge to 100% at night, and do the same thing on day 2, then you would have just finished up one charge cycle of its battery life (15)

2) The battery prefers a partial discharge rather than a full discharge

- Frequent full discharges should be avoided when possible (that means using the camera until the battery goes dead or 0% charge)
- Instead, charge the battery more often
- A reference (for phone Li-Ion batteries) recommends charging once the battery has used/discharged to around 5-10% of total charge (12)

3) There is no memory effect for Li-Ion batteries

- Recharging a partially charged Li-Ion battery does not cause harm as it has no memory effect
- Frequent recharging does not shorten the battery life more than normal usage would (15)

4) Avoid allowing the battery to discharge completely (19)

- Li-ion batteries actually include special circuitry to protect the battery from damage due to overcharging or undercharging
- This circuit is built to protect from the damage that could result if the charge of your lithium ion battery falls too low.
- Once the battery goes below a certain voltage (i.e. charge falls too low), the internal safety circuit opens and the battery becomes dead (irreversibly and permanently damaged). Again, this is a built-in safety mechanism that prevent the battery from being recharged again.
- So since Lithium Ion has no “memory effect”, it is better to simply charge your portable device as and when you can or remember (15)
- This is especially true if you do not use your camera for a long time (many months), allowing the battery to slowly discharge until completely depleted.

5) If you don't use your camera for more than 1 week, remove the battery from the camera

- to prevent self-discharge if the battery is kept in the camera
- in extreme cases, due to self-discharge (until the battery is almost dead), you would not be able to charge the battery anymore
- It is basically to prevent the battery from being discharged completely

6) Hot environment

- Avoid using a fully charged battery in a hot environment for extended periods of time as a fully charge battery can go up to 45'c during operation

7) Cold (freezing!) environment

- Batteries do not function as well and run down faster in cold environments/weather.
- To prevent this, keep you batteries warm by either carrying your camera under your coat or carry your spare batteries in your pocket so that your body heat can keep them warm (14)

8) Li-Ion batteries have a certain life-span

- The fact is, Li-ion batteries starts dying the moment it leaves the factory! (15)
- The actual life-span of an unused Li-ion battery can vary but it can be expected to irreversibly lose 20% of the total charge every year from its original date of manufacture (15, 16, 19)
- Hence,
---- if you have a spare battery, don't keep it stored for years. Use it interchangeably with your current battery
---- don't simply buy 2nd hand Li-ion batteries. Check the manufacture date
---- don't buy "spare" batteries just in case you need it in the future. Save the money and buy it only when you need it
- Li-Ion batteries lose some of their capacity after one year and may fail after 2 or more years even when they are not in use (13)
- Once the battery has worn out, there are no way to make it work again

9) Storage
- Lithium-ion batteries can hold a charge for many months (they have a self-discharge rate of 5-10%)(19)
- As mentioned before, if you're planning to store your camera for prolonged periods, remember to take out the batteries
- For prolonged storage, keep the battery at 70-80% charge level in a cool dry environment
- You can also store the batteries in a refrigerator as it has been found to greatly extend the shelf life (but don't freeze it!!!)(18)
--- Ensure it is kept dry in the fridge (e.g. in an air-tight container). Long-term exposure to moisture in the fridge can cause corrosion
--- When removing batteries from the refrigerator, allow them to warm up to room temperature before using them in your device

This post has been edited by kmarc: Jan 28 2010, 11:16 AM

E) DSLR bags

Note : Thx to ieR for his valuable help and input in improving this subsection!

There are many types of DSLR bags which can be divided into different categories:
1) Type of material - Leather, cotton, PVC, etc
2) Type of brand
3) Type of bag design - Shoulder bag, sling bag, backpack, etc.


1) Type of material

I would suggest avoiding leather bags because fungus grow easier on leather and may later affect your DSLR or the lenses.

2) Type of brand

There are many brands available in Malaysia. These include:
- Crumpler (Website)
- Domke (Website)
- Kata (Website)
- Lowepro (Website)
- Tamrac (Website)
- Thinktank (Website)
- Bagman
- Company brand e.g. Sony, Canon, Nikon, etc

3) Type of bag design

There are many types of DSLR bag to suit every situation. Some DSLR bags are fashionable, some are serious work bags, some meant for transporting(plane) and some for traveling.

They can be divided into:
a) Shoulder bag
b) Sling bag
c) Backpack
d) Travel bag
e) Beltpack
f) Harness and vest system

Whichever bag you choose (you may need a few bags for different circumstances), it is important to get a good bag that is:
1) Well-padded to properly protect the contents
2) Big enough to fit all your accessories
3) Have various comparments (that are usually adjustable) so that your DSLR and lenses fit snugly in the bag (and doesn't move around in the bag when you do move around!)
4) Security consideration (i.e. easy for thieves to steal your gears from behind if you wear a normal backpack)

a) Shoulder bag

As the name suggest, it is the camera bag carried on one shoulder. Sometimes called messenger bag. Example as below:


Source of picture : http://www.sony.com.my/product/lcs-amsc30


For some fashion-conscious people, shoulder bags can be a perfect fit as there are fashionable camera bags available (females only!). Example as below :


Source of picture : http://www.switched.com/2010/02/16/dslr-pa...-to-the-highly/

Shoulder bags are generally not meant to carry 6-7 pieces of gears. Depending on the size, they can usually only carry a camera body, 1-2 lenses, flash gun, some cleaning tools and a few small extra items e.g. extra batteries.

One thing I notice about shoulder bags is that they tend to move around as you walk about. Even leaning out or bending down to get something might be inconvenient as the bag will swing forward and sometimes fall out of your shoulders.

Note : There seems to be some confusion regarding the term shoulder bag and sling bag. Refer to the "Sling bag" subsection for more understanding.

Advantages of shoulder bag (21):
1) Can be loaded with more gears
2) Easy to access your camera
3) May count as a personal item which can be brought in addition to one-piece carry-on on most flights

Disadvantages:
1) A lot of weight on one shoulder
2) Dangle around during moderate activity
3) Difficult to carry around during activities which required good mobility

b) Sling bag

Sling bag employs a style that is becoming more popular in the photography world these days. The Sling bag is worn on your back, with the strap across the front of your body. When you need to access the bag, you don't actually need to take it off. Just simply slide it underneath your arm, and rest it on your chest, where it's easily accessible (20).

One good example is the Slingshot series from Lowepro:



Source of pictures : Lowepro website

Once you have used your camera, you can easily keep it back in the bag the same way you took it out.

You can also put the bag directly horizontal in front of you and use it as a stabilizing platform where you can rest both your elbows on the bag. This minimizes shake when taking pictures.

Slingshot reviews:
Slingshot 100AW
Slingshot 202AW
Slingshot 300AW

Advantages of a slingbag:
1) Comfortable and easy to move around (like a backpack)
2) Easy to access your camera/gears without taking off the bag
3) Opening for access to camera may be difficult for thieves to steal the camera while wearing the bag

Disadvantages
1) Weight distribution not as good as backpack (but still quite good)
2) Capacity usually not as big as backpack


c) Backpack

Backpack are excellent for users who need to carry the camera and their

There are many choices of backpacks available. They are usually built to contain adjustable compartments to store your camera/accessories. Their sizes can range from small to large sizes : Small (3x3 compartments), big (3x4) and huge (3x5). Some has laptop compartment, raincoat, and tripod straps (to carry tripod along) which is more preferable for enthusiast.

An example of 3x4 backpack (3 rows x 4 columns):


and the amount of gear to carry


Advantages (21) of a backpack:
1) Largest possible capacity for your gears
2) Comfortable distribution of weight
3) Greatest mobility for activity (arms are free too!)

Disadvantages:
1) Difficult to get your camera, backpack must be removed
2) Working with gears is uncomfortable, usually need to put down the backpack
3) Gears not in sight, higher risk of being robbed!!
4) Rarely counts as a personal item on flights

d) Travel bag

Some people use backpacks to transport their gear in long distance, some uses specially designed bags like the thinktank's Airport Security series, they cost a lot, but they definately protect ur gears in long flight. it allow u to bring almost all your gears to shooting location, unlike backpack, they cant really carry on your back, because with all the gear u carry, they easily weight over 20kg(hence, these bag usually coems with trolley), which is not good for your back. handle the back and your (human)body with care.





e) Belt pack

Belt packs are worn at the waist (like a belt). Their sizes vary and can be large enough to hold a DSLR, several lenses and other smaller accessories. It is easy and comfortable to move around while wearing the belt pack. In addtion, as it is worn in front of you, it is easy to access your gears as well as preventing thieves from stealing your gears. However, the bag might get in the way if you try to sit, crouch or swat down.

Here's an example of an exceptionally large belt pack:



Source : http://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/spe...-belt-pack.aspx

Advantages (21) of a belt pack
1) Comfortable distribution of weight
2) Equipment easily accessible
3) Bag is visible while being worn
4) Generally counted as a personal item and can be brought in addition to a one piece of carry-on on most flights

Disadvantages
1) Sitting and crouching may be difficult
2) Usually have to remove while sitting (unless it is a very small bag which can be pushed sideways)


f) Harness and vest system

They are not actually not bags but a harness and vest system like below:



but another way to carry ur gears around, usually meant to carry with you 'all time'. they are usually used by professional(with jobs) like wedding photographers, because they need extra batteries and changing lens on the spot. harness and vest are not essential for normal photographer, but many would love to wear one to look cool;)



------------------------

Camera bags that comes with your camera

On many occasion, you'll get a free camera bag that comes along with your DSLR but might not be big enough or good enough to protect your DSLR. In that case, it would be wise to get a better one.

Bags that are bundled with a DSLR (if they don't give FOC (free-of-charge), bargain for it!) are usually simple, small and enough for the current camera/gears that you own at that time.

ieR's FOC bag
Here's a picture of the simple cheap FOC bag (some of us call it the china bag)


Here is the amount of gears it can store (I missplace my divider, but it give some rough idea how much gear u can store inside)
(* I am suppose to throw in a lenspen and blower, or some cleaning kits)


Many people hate this type of square bag(hey, it's free anyway), as it doesn't stay at one place when u carry it, it swings around, and it is very obvious a camera bag that attracts unwanted attention.

kmarc's FOC bag
Small bag with lousy design might also make it difficult to store or retrieve your DSLR from the bag.

For example, my free DSLR bag is a small bag with zips(avoid this at all cause!)as below (left picture). I found that it is difficult to insert my camera into the bag without eventually getting the camera scratched by the zip on entry or on removal. My solution was to actually get a soft cloth (that's my old Guess t-shirt!!) that line the interior of the bag and protrude out on both sides of the bag to protect my camera on insertion and removal (right picture).



Note : My DSLR actually came with a better shoulder bag which cost RM240. However, I didn't like it and requested for another bag which is RM120. The vendor actually gave me a RM100 discount!!!

Choosing the right bag for you.
Some of u (seasonal pro) might own 5-7 bags, some own 2, i (ieR) owns 4 type of bags. choosing a right one is important. i do not carry Big Backpack every time i go out, (i would love to own a fashion sling bag enough for a body and 2 lens)...


----------------------------------


DSLR bags are usually expensive(200-4k), hence there are people who DIY, (will get back to that later on) or some people who seek those China-made DSLR bags (rm30-300)


(footnote: bag are not recommended to store your gears for a long period of time, bags afterall, are also a breeding ground for fungus even u put several packs of silica gels inside. see C) DSLR - Storage for better understanding of long term storage)

#A1i - Sling Bags (also the normal square boxed bags)





the Large ones are like
['img]http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/kmarc73/Camera-goodbag.jpg['/img]




there are ways to hide the intention of bag(DSLR), below*


lowerpro messenger (quick link)
Crumpler series (quick link)

#A1ii - BackPacks



*** suppose to add another type of bag, but i dunno what's it call,
some ppl do not plan to get futher more lenses, (aka family shooter) and prefer an ALL IN ONE lens, (eg: 18-250), this type of bag suit them the best.




#A1iii - travel bags



#A1iv - harness and vest system



#A1*
Sharing of bags experience


This post has been edited by kmarc: May 28 2010, 01:35 PM

F) References

References:
1) http://www.ehow.com/how_4890095_care-dslr.html
2) http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-L...Lens-Hoods.aspx
3) http://ezinearticles.com/?Protect-Your-DSL...Bags&id=1992513
4) http://www.jmg-galleries.com/blog/2009/04/...-high-humidity/
5) http://www.photomalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88737
6) http://www.life123.com/hobbies/photography...lr-camera.shtml
7) http://blog.webshots.com/?p=1016
8) http://photographyguidestutorial.com/category/camera-care
9) http://www.mypentax.com/Fungus.html
10) http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/handbo...Handbook8_9.pdf
11) http://ww3.microtek.com.tw/tw/uploads/faq/...ium_battery.pdf
12) http://www.cellutips.com/four-tips-for-pro...-phone-battery/
13) http://www.cellutips.com/four-tips-for-pro...-phone-battery/
14) http://www.dptips-central.com/camera-batteries.html
15) http://www.techatplay.com/?p=61
16) http://ezinearticles.com/?What-You-Need-To...eries&id=288263
17) http://www.greenbatteries.com/libafa.html
18) http://www.batterymart.com/c-battery-facts-faqs.html
19) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_ion_battery
20) http://www.switched.com/2010/02/16/dslr-pa...-to-the-highly/
21) http://www.neocamera.com/feature_camerabags.html

This post has been edited by kmarc: May 8 2010, 07:05 PM

Reserved....

---

Added on January 22, 2010, 4:11 pmHi guys, I am in the process of doing a complete guide on taking good care of your DSLR.

Kindly give your comments, critisim, tips, advice, suggestions on the 2 almost complete subsections, which is the :

A) DSLR - general care
C) DSLR - storage

Thx!

This post has been edited by kmarc: Jan 22 2010, 04:11 PM

this is some good shit , keep it up

Thx but I need you guys to help me improve it. Wanna have a complete guide for noobs (ya ya, I know, I'm a super noob too......)

thx a lot! really taught me a lot of stuff

c) Sunbath your lenses

sorry for asking a noob question
is that really necessary?
i thought the uv filter was suppose to protect the lens coating from uv rays...

Cool. Still work in progress though

That's a good point. I think we should remove the UV filter if we want to use that method.

I still need further info and clarification from our sifus too, hence the quote "*need more info".

Will update it once I get more info.

thanks a lot bro...this is really helpful

maybe something to add about storing batteries..

use it (or charge it) until around 50%, and keep them wrapped in something, plastic bag would do. then store in the fridge to retain the battery lifespan. even if u're not storing it in a fridge, juz remember to wrap the battery in something to avoid the connectors touching any conductors that would cause short circuit

Cool! I haven't come to the battery part yet but I've heard about the fridge thingy before. Do you have any links regarding this? Will google for it too.

This link actually did mention something related to your post : http://ww3.microtek.com.tw/tw/uploads/faq/...ium_battery.pdf



Will do the battery part soon.......

wow..a nice guide..thnx buddy....seems like dry box is the best alternative..but haizzz...

seems like there're lots for me to learn b4 taking up a dslr plan...
thx 4 this thread btw =D It helps alot.

No, the UV was meant to protect film during the film era. today, UV filter is totally useless with digital sensor. it just that, the market for UV is hard to die because people are not educated that UV has no what-so-ever function for digital sensor. but they get it for a simple protection for the lens. not just against knock, but WIPES, when u cant find proper cloth to wipe, using ur cloth(baju( is the best and fastest way, thus, the filter usually let u guys wipe as hard as u wan, coz it is expandable.

usually, what people look for is MC filter, the multi coated, to prevent flare (those who got UV only, will add flare to ur photo, go test it~) and cut down lightsources (a little like ND or CPL effect) some people notice when using MC filter, they got 1/3 drop of speed... but live with it.

Wow! My sifu has come!!!

Errrmmm... MRC filter will reduce the speed aaah? You mean the focusing speed?

Anyway, so sorry ya sifu, I going to order the "B+W 62mm XS-PRO Digital MRC UV Haze 010M Filter". Don't hentam me ok.....

the reduce speed is in term of shutter-speed, example
on a situation, you can take nominal exposure (EV+0) with setting 1/60 F4 with UV filter off..
but if with UV filter, you maybe need to use 1/30 to form a same exposure.. (this depend on uv filter reduce how many stop)

hello, i have Nikon D60, and i want 'bring it' to winter country soon (temperature is under 0 degree celsius), is there any suggestion of how to keep it 'warm' without damaging my camera when i taking the picture outdoor or when i am in the outdoor, but not taking picture...

I only know that I need to on the dslr all the time....is there any other suggestion?

according to some review, the D60 working environment is btw 0~40 C


Thanks is advance!

Oh I see..... Thx for the explanation.

I still need to read up on the f-stop and how it is affected by various factors in addition to how it affects your picture....

I haven't completed that part of the guide yet as I thought it was not important in our country. Anyway, here's some links that I googled up, take a look. Otherwise, you can also google up with keywords like "Using DSLR in winter" :

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1214739
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83002
http://www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?actio...HREAD_ID=502394
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....showtopic=20432

Will complete that part of the guide one day.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Feb 2 2010, 03:39 PM

since when does UV reduce so much light la?

---

Added on February 2, 2010, 3:43 pmnot necessarily. you can just buy DSLR and learn it along the way.

what is stated here are guides.

---

Added on February 2, 2010, 3:48 pmhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number

basically "Depth of field" increases with f-number. higher f-number means narrower aperture meaning less light go through so slower shutter speed.

lower f-number = wider aperture, more light come in, faster shutter speed can be used, less DOF, more bokeh.

lenses are commonly not at their sharpest when at widest available aperture.

Thx, still a lot of things to learn. At the moment, just playing with my DSLR. Need to read up more on the settings.....

hi there...
may i know how long can the HIPPO last??
how can i tell when to replace it?

regards..

The bottom part of the Hippo will fill up with water until a certain level. Once it reaches that level which is marked on the container, you will have to replace it.

The instructions on when to replace it is clearly written on the back label.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Feb 3 2010, 08:42 PM

hi there,
thanks for your reply.. then may i know one container of hippo can roughly last how long?
so tat i know how many boxes should i buy.
thanks...

This post has been edited by charleschia1986: Feb 4 2010, 03:58 PM

Errrm.... this is my first time using the Hippo too so I'm not too sure myself.

My wife said if put in cupboard, can last 1-2 months, maybe 3 months depending on how humid it is and how frequent you open the cupboard. I'm thinking that if you put in an air-tight container, it would last even longer.

I just bought one and I think you can try to buy one first to see how long it last.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Feb 4 2010, 05:53 PM

I got a suggestion, add a 'Silica Gel Packs' to your DIY dry-box section. These Silica Gel Packs are sold in camera shops like Shangri-La, and you can microwave them to reuse them instead of having to buy new Thistry Hippos.

+ here is a link to show you how it looks like. http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11481

This post has been edited by latias93: Feb 7 2010, 04:11 PM

another pinned thread by kmarc
but informative indeed... thanks

Hey, thx for the tip. I didn't even know that there's such a thing as "reusable" silical packs. Will add that into the guide. Thx!

Anybody got any picture of their own reusable gel packs? I can include that in the guide instead of pulling it off the internet.


Thx. Nothing great about pinned thread la.....

This post has been edited by kmarc: Feb 7 2010, 07:09 PM

Hello, I have read through the site you have posted, really learnt something, but where can I buy the hot pad they mentioned? in the pharmacy? watson? guardian? I just went to a pharmacy in the sunway pyramid, and the hot pad was a very large size for 'human' use, there is small size one right?

i mean disposable one

This post has been edited by Lennethe: Feb 8 2010, 10:11 PM

Errrmm.... what hot pad are you referring to?

This post has been edited by kmarc: Feb 9 2010, 10:38 AM

In http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83002 ....Post #12

OIC. I'm have no idea about that. Maybe our sifus can help.....

errr...who are they?? @@ lolx

guys, wana ask, what if i kept my DSLR at my car boot (which is very hot compare to most of other car) for few days when i am driving and not using it, isit ok?

Errmmmm, I think the practice of NOT putting anything in a hot car under the sun applies to any electronic devices, not just DSLR.

Anyway, here's what is stated in the my DSLR manual:

PRECAUTION

Do not use/store the camera in the following places:
- In an extremely hot, dry or humid place. In places such as in a car parked in the sun, the camera body may become deformed and this may cause a malfunction.

hm...thats what i think too.

but my car is not always under the sun while parking, its just that when i was driving, my car boot is very hot

sigh....i better not put in there anymore liao @@

thanks...

kmarc, a question here...

When i'm in a car, will those vibration n shocks from irregular road surfaces cause any damage to my camera?

Alamak! I'm also a noob leh, dunno about that.....

Have to ask our sifus/pros (who seldom come into this thread..... )

lol, it's alright...
i'll redirect that ques to Orange L. soon =D

This LIST is good... keep it up!! Leg Thumbs up... !!

a few days ago i was driving home n noticed an open burning during a beautiful sunset. i didnt have my camera with me, so i drove home, get my dslr n come back (all in all maybe just 5mins)...but at the time the sunset was gone

so my question...is there a safe way to store a camera in my car all the time? so i wont miss a shot safe from thieves, from heat, from bumps n everything

i seriously want to know this tooo ..... :S

FYI the camera is not as weak as what we think it is. in fact it's tough!

you think about it, which part of the car you put? cushion? in a bag? or you put it in a hard metal case?

it's not uncommon for camera bodies to knock the human body, and other cameras and even walls and tables during events. they can withstand knocks and such.

in car? just put in a bag with some decent padding and you're all set to go. after all you put on the cushion anyway.

I don't know the answer but personally, I wouldn't keep an expensive DLSR in the car in the first place. Many reasons but the main factor is thieves.

If I want to really keep it in the car, I was thinking about using an ice box with padded sponge, but that's just me.

I think the better alternative is having a good DSLR backpack that is convenient to carry so that you can carry your DSLR around?

After putting on the cushion, don't forget to put on the safety belt!!!!

hmm,
if everything else works perfectly according to goldfries n kmarc's method,
juz wondering if a sudden deceleration can kill a dslr? (assuming high speed car crash n u live to see the camera again)

This post has been edited by lugiamcg: Mar 13 2010, 11:47 PM

you think too much liao la.

no point go so far leh. for me the camera is always in a bag, with padding. sometimes i just put on the seat only, no seat belt. sometimes kena before brake the fella tumble, small matter.

damn difficult to kill any SLR la. at most something not working, can still fix. so that's not exactly KILL isn't it?

you worry too much.

---

Added on March 13, 2010, 11:49 pmif want to worry, i lagi worry last year cover event and standing near helicopter.

gila my sling bag also become sail already, some more i didn't close my bag. faster fasten it before all my glasses drop out. haha.

if i accident, i'd be busy worrying about my car rather than my DSLR... haha

backpack umm..no no dun wan to bring camera all the time hehe

thief-related issues aside... how about heat? if left in the car too long under sunlight can spoil the camera? n battery?

Here's what is stated in the my DSLR manual:

PRECAUTION

Do not use/store the camera in the following places:
- In an extremely hot, dry or humid place. In places such as in a car parked in the sun, the camera body may become deformed and this may cause a malfunction.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 14 2010, 08:18 AM

lol, thats a relieve =D
juz asking to see how tough can a dslr be, and it sounds pretty tough to me

never been close to a started copter b4 lol. So i don't know how strong the wind can be

this applies to anything la. remember that your camera's LCD are also ......well, LIQUID!

many things around can melt as well since many part of it is plastic.

there are internal components to consider as well. i've placed in car parked in hot sun before but it's in a bag so before the heat reaches the camera internals, it has to heat up the car first, then the air, then through the back, then the air inside the bag.

left it there for few hours, was quite warm when i took it out of the car. i wouldn't do it on a a daily basis though, not for long run.

nowadays i just bring my stuff along. too heavy a risk, unless the place is secure.

mine shooting when heli landing. imaging fighting the wind + handling the bag.

so far i face those heli on a yearly basis la, just that last year i don't recall the heli landing that near. this year if the organizer do the same thing, well heli time again! hopefully by then I'll have my belt units ready.

ya i know...all electronics got this warning. that's y im wondering if someone figured out a safe way to store my camera in my car

A noob question here... where can i buy silica-gel ? or other product which can absorb humidity....? ( note: i live in kedah )

go buy hippo!!!!

The 1 they put in wardrobe ?

Yup. The one you put in your wardrobe. Look at the picture on the first page of the guide

My first thirsty hippo is 1/3 full. That's for the last 1 and a half months. I think I can stretch it to 4 months.

Just that each hippo is quite expensive. I bought mine in Sibu for RM16.90!!!

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 18 2010, 08:15 PM

Ya... but my home didint use product like that.. so i dont really know about that...
But didint the packet like silica-gel or other humidity absorb product found in the container of medicine can be used? Since the main objective is to lower the humidity of the air.....

Can be used. Did you read the guide or not?

Yeap i read... sorry for noob-question lolx... anyway... Nice Guide

Can we keep the UV filter and CPL filter in dry cabinet?

What is the best RH% to set for Aipo dry cabinet, as mentioned from the guide is 42%-43% but in Aipo instruction manual is 30%-40%?

This post has been edited by ojchong: Mar 21 2010, 12:38 AM

I think what you mean is whether it is NECESSARY to keep those filters in the dry cabinet right?

Filters are relatively cheap compared to lenses unless you buy very expensive CPLs. As such, in my opinion, it is not necessary to keep them in the dry box. In addition, I don't think it is easy for filters to get fungus as they are just a one piece part.

Another example is your typical compact camera. I don't think any typical user would buy a dry box even if the camera cost RM1k ............

For RH% setting, during my research, there were varying recommendations regarding RH% setting for DSLR. As far as I can tell, most experts would recommend an RH value of 40-45%.

The reason to recommend 42-43% is because of small inaccuracy in the boxes i.e. you set at 40% and your dry box might be running at 38%!!!!

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 21 2010, 10:33 AM

oic... thanks for the info

Is it wise to buy a Dry Box if I dont use the camera for 2-7 days like that?
Been thinking, if it isnt necessary then I would make a DIY Dry Box like the Thirsty Hippo and Container..
Any Suggestions?

A dry box is a good option but it also depends on various factors. For one, if you have expensive lenses and many camera bodies, then a dry box is a must. Another factor is how rich you are. There are other pros and cons in the guide.

I am still using my DIY dry box with the thirsty hippo. I think I can stretch the usage of the thirsty hippo to at least 3-4 months (and I'm opening my box almost everyday). In terms of cost, DIY dry box is cheaper but in the long run (over many years), the dry box is a better alternative.

Here's my calculation on the cost:

My DIY container : RM25
Thirsty Hippo x1 : RM16 (price in Sibu, can last for say 3 months)
- that makes it RM16 x 4 = RM64 per year

Use thirsty hippo for 5 years = RM64 x 5 = RM 320

Total cost after 5 years = RM320 + container = RM345

That's about the same price as a small dry box (dry box power consumption is about 3-5w, so not much electricity overhead). However, if your dry box failed, then have to send in for warranty or pay for the repair if no warranty.

By 5 years, I'd probably buy a new DSLR, maybe Sony alpha 2550!!!

So for me, I'll stick to my DIY dry box for the moment.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 28 2010, 11:47 AM

Ah wahahah... So I guess I would go for the DIY Dry Box then
[SAVE MONEY]
Since I only have one DSLR and 3 lenses... ngahaha.. saved my money for 3 years to get a new Nikon D300s..
Been using Film Lens till now

Good Luck for ur new DSLR

This post has been edited by locksng12: Mar 28 2010, 11:49 AM

nice info man....

Canon DSLR ViewFinder Dust Cleaning
Source: http://shimworld.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/...-ii-viewfinder/
Note: Each Canon DSLR Model might be different (eg 400D will need to dismantle the whole black bracket before taking out the glass)

DSLR Sensor Cleaning using Dry Way
Source: http://www.naturescapes.net/phpBB3/viewtop...1&view=previous
Note: If rocket blower doesn't work, a normal size lenspen LP1/mini pro (need not lenspen sensorklear) can do the job for medium sticky dust, the only con is it might not able to clean the corner dust
Instructions:

My work log: 13 April 2010 3AM Because all the lich people here feed poison to me, I have no money to send my Canon 400D to service centre and decided to do the cleaning myself! However during dismantling the viewfinder, I somehow mishandled and scratched the viewfinder with the black bracket and now whenever I looked through the viewfinder I see scratches, but it doesn't affect picture quality

KIDS, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! IF YOU ARE POOR ALSO DON'T DO THIS! DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!

This post has been edited by wtm0325: Apr 13 2010, 05:20 AM

hey guys, i need your help, does anyone know where i can get my old lenses cleaned? it has fungus growing on the back.. and how much would it cost? coz if its really too expensive, i might juz get a new lens instead

Best post ever!

Nice links.

Will update the guide this weekend when I have time.

Update : Guide updated!!!

This post has been edited by kmarc: Apr 19 2010, 12:43 PM

I was eagerly looking for this kind of stuffy, I would like to appreciate you for sharing this stuff.

My hand shakes..i doubt that i can do so..haha

Thanks for the info about RH% setting for DSLR

*gulps* I dont know there is so much thhingy need to know about slr even after almost near to a year of having 1 myself.

anyway thanks for the guide

is the container u bought air tight??
i jus bought a hygrometer and test on my non air tight container and it display 56++% when the container is open and the lowest it go when the container is close is 50&%!! is it ok??

try not to open during rainy day, and keep the container in dry places. those drier/silica gels are not 100% proven reliability. use at own risk.

i'm using thirsty hipo!! actually if use air tight container got diffrent?? i open the box 1 tym per week oni