there is a seller in lowyat garage sale but i got mine during auto show in the mines convention center last year
at discount price. their fully loaded supra on display is damn nice!

only reason i bought is was the discounted price during auto show.
else, i won't give it a damn
performance wise, quit ok...

paid 100 bucks upfront during auto show. paid the rest during installation.
cost less than 250 bucks if am not mistaken. that time they just making inroads into the market. hence their price is higher.
there is no way stock 4g18p can catch up with a stock 1.8 altis or civic on pick up but i've tested my waja auto 4g18p. good enough for 200km/h. feel quite stable at 180km/h.
light modded with everco exhaust but using gsr twintip, k&n drop-in and some modification on gearbox.

good noise insulation and good set of tires + good suspension + some guts will cover the car weakness

perhaps, you need to bot. speedworks has 'em under 10k
then again, i'd rather swap to more powerful engine at that price

mine was 4g18p auto with modded gear ratio(changed cog). you need a guts to reach 200km/h. stock suspension(not lowered) is too unstable.
no idea about gsc twintop. the one in my neo now is a 1.8gsr na with mivec top.
half cut gsrt with 60k mileage usually cost around that figure but tweaking the engine to obtain a desired performance and reliability is the most expensive chapter in engine modification

every car does use a fuel pump. for waja, inside the fuel pump itself, there is another fuel filter which cost dirt cheap but to remove the fuel filter itself require an effort, thus caused the labour cost to shoot up.
was located underneath the rear seat.

just a simple diagnostic will do. you don't have to re-tune the ecu cuz' it will usually adapt to our driving style after a couple of days.
btw, could be the fuel pump problem. if fuel pump is already at fault, changing the fuel filter alone will not help.
a taiwanese fuel pump should be cheaper by more than 50% compare to the oem from pesc.
btw, do you happened to pump only when the fuel warning light turn on? it's a bad practice for waja and will easily affect the lifespan of the fuel pump.

nah! that was the reason why you are having a problem with fuel pump.
for your information, waja floater is created a lil' bit funny
4/4 = full
3/4 = half tank
2/4 = quarter tank
1/4 = almost empty
if you noticed, the fuel gauge needle will take forever to go down from 3/4 but once it was under the 2/4, it will go
down like no tomorrow.
next time, better refill before the fuel gauge rach 1/4 mark

use few days more..sometimes it will takes up to a week. mine goes back to normal in 5 days due to seldom drive.
btw, some other forumer waited for a month for the ecu to adapt by itself

yes. used to refill 75 bucks of ron 97 while i was still driving it. could last for more than 400km which is about 2 weeks before the next refill.

you mean the brake caliper? i've seen em in gold and red. spray using heat resistant material which can be bought at
any car accessories shop.

you mean we can't just swap from mineral to semi-synth; with or without engine flushing?
what type of 'sakit'? mind to elaborate more?
a friend bought a used waja and he don't know what type of engine oil the previous owner was using.
he is currently using mineral but plan to switch to semi-syn soon.

btw, am happy with hx7 on my waja ride.

my car is doing fine with hx7 bought from shell station. currently feel so light. can drag with a full throttle 1.8 civic at traffic light with rpm shooting up to 5.8k rpm i plan to try bardahl semi-synth soon. after long time using hx7 now it's time to try other brand any comment on bardahl semi-synth?

kelvin mentioned after long time using mineral, should no use other type of engine oil coz' it will caused 'sakit' to the car my friend plan to change from mineral to semi-synth on his next service, btw.


kelvin3900, how about changing from mineral to semi-synth of the sam 10 - 40w? any problem?

This post has been edited by yngwie: Mar 11 2010, 08:47 PM

am staying away from BOT.
speedworks could do a nice BOT on 4g18p with very minimal compromise on the reliability but at the cost of over 8k, i'd rather go for engine transplant. ie; 4g93t...erbalik could go for higher boost and more modding option
as for the bodykit, as usual, i prefer a silent killer; stock looking car with killer engine

exactly! there is this 4g93t with mivec top and turbo taken out to make way for stage 2 na engine mod in my possession.
currently experimenting with e-manage blue and haltech on the power harness.

btw, the most expensive part in car modification is getting the engine to perform up to expectation ....

whooooosh!!! turbo kick is addictive, btw
but after my previous experience with turbo engine, am bulding a decent na engine now.
btw, neo2000's x-trac gearbox alone cost more than 500k! the same company produced a gear box for lotus f1 and other team.

from my experience, bigger rims + low profile(hard sidewall) wide tires = increase in cornering ability / handling + good looks but the stock waja engine will work harder due to heavier rims.
increased tires contact with surface = more rolling resistance = increased fc( if we care about it )
try DOHC 4G18

2 pots brake setup allow you to brake very late in cornering / before overtaking
tein adjustable(other adjustable too) provide a stiffer ride compare to the conventional one.
the stiffer spring + lowered car's center of gravity allow for better cornering.
pu bushing is good due it's reliability and longevity too.
3 point front strut bar, fender bar, rear bar, undercarriage bar will definitely add to car's rigidity thus improves handling too.

@tjroy@
waja already handle like lotus in some way with their input... a lot of other more expensive car are using the cost saving torsion beam car while waja is on multi-link

already modded your with port and polish head?

must be maddie job
he is damn good and experience on modding.
i send my car to him for service once. good job!

dohc usually tuned for efficiency and performance since it's easier to play around with an extra(dual) camshaft in dohc over the sohc(single).
but it wasn't as simple!
besides the changed compression ratio, thus affect the ecu thingy, wiring harness / exhaust / intake manifold and a few other things need to be taken care of as well.
the sohc 4g18p is already providing an acceptable amount of torque at very low rpm.
from my experience, the simplest of dohc conversion is more beneficial at higher rpm!

due to it's nature with only a single cam which opens and closes the intakes and exhaust valves,
most sohc engine are design to provide more torque at lower rpm. thus the single cam don't have to work
so hard....jk
improves cam aka hotter' cam on sohc is definitely a better spend on sohc engine due to it's limitation!
depending on the level of modification / tuning, esp when coupled with a turbo, dohc can be very productive at lower rpm but it's true capability(due to the dual cam availability) is usually showing at higher rpm over the similar sohc engine.

in daily term, sohc is comparable to working with one hand while dohc is like working with 2 hands where we have a better control

check THIS out....