sigh! sorry... i meant to say "... i'm NOT selling..." what's wrong with me...

haha... just sharing some wonderful stuffs with the community here...

polkiuj, can you clarify the bolded above? are you referring to not able to hold the max brightness? or not holding back on brightness?
so far, the T100C2 and Quark line seems the most efficient in circuit design to me, not sure about Ra/NovaTac and others. do you know any that can hold the brightness with less than 5% drop within 30 minutes of usage? how about M60? interesting findings from bigchelis's thread lately as he is commencing some testing using AS5, but i don't think i wanna mess with it in my lights tho... are you using any AS5 in your "custom" XP-G now?

oh... ic... never thought of that... but I'm not too sure about that tho... coz the mass of ET lights doesn't seems that dense to me...

here you go... http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showth...t=260659&page=5 it's the same thread as his "Actual Lumen Readings by bigchelis in 10.5in Sphere", starting page 5, and you can see the amount of AS5 he puts in his 6P...

got it... thanks.


errr... you dun twist the head... but we do... when we "test" your light... hahahaha...

I'm a little disappointed lately with most of the newer light releases (2-3 cells form factors)... perhaps i should stop for a while and come back 6-9 months later for something with more "Oooooo..." and "Wwwooooow".

oh man... what's with all the explosion and venting lately? here's another Surefire G2 Explosion
I can't help but think that there might be some unknown battery parasites or bacteria that has infected our planet. Maybe the Mayan know something that we don't...

It's really nice to see meet you guys.
pseudoblue, thank you so much for the drinks and food, simply awesome!
the triple Cree D26 drop-in is really impressive, with a hot spot like that, who needs any spills?
old newspaper's Stanley HID is awesomely cool. The reach of the throw is CRAZZZZYYYY.... at one point I tot it touches the clouds...

can you share with us which battery tester you use to check the li-ion capacity?
from your description, it sounds like your light is running DD? if "near-full" brightness is what you are after, you may want to consider a fully regulated light as it will gives you "near-full" brightness for 80-90% of the useful battery juice, some may even have a feature to inform you that it's time to recharge by blinking.

hey, uncle wong, have you check with your Singapore Flashlight dealer that you will be getting the updated version with the leaky heatsink grease problem solved? here's the link to the problem description:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=262183

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Added on March 11, 2010, 7:22 pmguys/gals, remember the RM4.38 L92 AAA battery pack? I notice that most Watsons has started to replenish their stock and the used-by date is 2024.

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 11 2010, 07:22 PM

ok... since we are "forbidden to *rant*" in the 'Sales?' thread, I'll do it here...

Using standard Quark Mini pricing as reference:
Quark Mini CR123 US$69 - Quark Mini CR2 US$99 = Battery4Life Programme US$30 for 3 years for total of 6 CR2 batteries

Locally, you can get a branded CR2 battery at RM12 so 6 x RM12 = RM72
Compare to US$30 x 3.5 (exchange rate) = RM 105

I'm also pretty sure when we get the battery in box, the price will go lower than RM10/pc.

I really don't get it. Eventhough 4Sevens is "trying hard?" to justify this programme. I feel like part of the freedom are being taken away.

EDIT: for the record, I think the Mini CR2 Ti is cute, but the B4L programme is unacceptable. my prediction:
- some fanboy will comes to 4Sevens defense providing evidence that he/she subscribe to the US$250 programme
- someone will get banned for "bashing"
- someone will justify the B4L by telling others CR2 is unique, is Ti, is one of a kind... et... etc... etc...
- sigh!!!

oh... and I'm done ranting...

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 13 2010, 12:06 PM

did you notice all prices from .pl site is higher? EU$92 == US$126
did you notice all shipping to EU carries a flat charge rate of 4euro?

great efforts and good infos. thanks pseudoblue. y'ur da man!!!

guys, using schuster suggested test method from cpf, following is the result i get:





you can get most of the lubricants tested above locally.
do note that this is just one method of testing, albeit an easy one, it doesn't necessarily mean those that comes back clear is good for your flashlight nor those that comes back light-gray is bad. the test is relative to the use of various lubricant on Al material and with relatively "light"-loading. however, I find it interesting that it does give a good comparison view of how each of these lubricants performs with my lubricating experience.

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 18 2010, 01:39 PM

hey susuman, there are a couple of reasons and it depends on which silicone grease you are using.
none of the silicone grease tested above are known to have any chemical reaction in its stable state, so it won't wear the aluminum. but (haha, there is always a but), the viscosity of the lubricant that you use does have a part to play in wearing of aluminum thread. if the machining of the thread is low quality, where you can feel its grittiness, you will most likely have a grayish gunk built-up over time (sometimes as soon as a couple of turns), and high viscosity silicone grease will only make it worse. i found that using a low viscosity grease or oil works better in this case, and one of the reason why DeoxIT Gold may work as a lubricant for some of these light.

in the test above, 3 of the silicone grease turns light-gray, Danco, ACE h/w, McNett, this is most likely due to impurity of the grease or the additives used. Do note that the McNett is a food-grade grease and it has the lightest gray among 3 (i have to carefully look for it). the 4th silicone grease -- Nyogel 760G, is a low viscosity high-grade silicone grease, and I can't find any grayish colour developed even after 3 cycles of testing. however, do note that Nyogel does turn a little grayish after expose to the environment due to oxidation process of one of its additive compound.

EDIT:
polkiuj, haha... the Meguiar's Metal Polysh is there as control, not a lubricant, just wanted to see how "black" can it go... maybe i should say the result is "bling-bling black".

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 18 2010, 12:23 PM

yup. those you have is indeed 760G.

huh... iTP A3 vibrate?
looks like iTP got hold of some "Alien" technology that we know nothing about, not only it can be use as "accidental" self-defense tool (iTP A3 EOS Exploded), now it can be used as a massaging tool?!

EDIT:
pseudoblue, can you do a postmortem on it?
did you try a different alky?

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 22 2010, 12:30 PM

haha... due to weight and design, i don't think my 2-cell quarks will survive the same test.
also, one reason why SS bezel and tail-cap "protective" ring + o-ring helps, the glass cracked due to deform of the bezel which due to soft aluminum used in quark line.
but I do think 4Sevens owes him a new Quark for doing this tho...

strinq, relatively speaking, yes. when comparing to Olight, Fenix, NiteCore, and others.
i'm not sure what type of "aircraft-grade aluminum" each is machined from (i think i read somewhere Quark is T-6061), but from 1st-hand experience, the Quarks are softer.
It's strange that some RM25 low cost china LED light is more resilient to abuse than any of the above mentioned brands.

(Note: not gonna to compare to SureFire here, they are in different league )


EDIT:
here's a link to some common Al grades: GENERAL ALUMINUM INFORMATION

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 24 2010, 02:59 PM

I think you meant TK11 XP-G R5. right? LD10, LD20, PD30 are using R4 tho...

EDIT:
your EagleTac P20C2 MKII is still brighter...
wonder why they don't drive these XP-G harder since it can be driver at 1.5A and it's within the "safety-bound" of primary CR123A and RCR123.

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 25 2010, 03:27 PM

8:30pm, on March 27, 2010

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time to play!!!

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Mar 26 2010, 06:46 AM

ok... i wanna play... here's mine...