try this?
http://www.surefire.com/truestories

Yes. and I'm still itching to get a McClicky.

Yes. some has Bezel -> O-ring -> Lens -> O-ring -> head for extra protection.

I think you can get those forward clicky switch from DX too.

You can check with GW2U, Philightsophy, polkiuj to see if they have any spare clicky, forward/reverse, switches for sell. You may need to check if those fit in your tail-cap (tho most will). Converting reverse clicky to forward clicky may need you to change the tail-boot too as forward clicky tend to be slightly longer (but I guess you can trim it).

i think he's abducted by alien, he was playing too much with his Quark "disco". i think he persuaded his alien friend to "show-force" 4Sevens for this CR2-Al with optional B4L.

maybe not so much of a missent, but it was rerouted for a "risk evaluation"... with that many suspicious looking pipes in the box...

guys, anyone here using any hobby charger? got any good one to recommend?
Is Tahmazo T15+ a good charger? Anyone got any experience with it?
What about Bantam BC6?

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Apr 9 2010, 12:46 PM

thanks mate. now searching who is selling Turnigy locally...
what power supply are you using? mind posting photos of your charging setup?

looks nice. what is that white/black box with 3 red connectors at the top that sit next to Turnigy for? your magnet connectors, something similar to Lux Luthor's (I think he no longer makes it)?

thanks for the heads-up. Where did you get it from? How much?

ah... thanks. just found your setup photos, i think i may want to "clone" your cradle design...

thanks Striderman. I think I'll shop around for a bit, read from malaysia-rc forum that someone selling at RM450++.

ah, you're right. now I get it... when you put the batteries on the Ti bar, you are parallel charging your batteries as a single cell and treating it as a larger capacity cell. essentially you do not need to "balance" charge, is that right? so you are charging with 4.2V and 6A?

in the name of true flashlight enthusiast (yea right!), i gives you my first close call...

kids, don't do this at home!!!

Taking apart 2CR5 and CR-P2 (CR223)

The packaging:

nothing special here, just a plain blister pack.

The battery:


After disassemble:

while disassembling, i accidentally shorted the contact, i didn't notice the short until few minutes later, the battery feels warm and it's getting warmer, I quickly get my SAK and try to pry open the contact by force, after a few sparks, i think i have broken the short. the battery starts to cool down and Voltage starts to rebound. pheeewwww...
the Voltage measure 6.50V at the initial, during the short, it measure 5.86V and dropping and heating up, after taken apart, 1 measure 3.00V and another measure 3.02V resting.

The batteries:

you can still see some left over metal strip here...

Same batteries from another angle:

essentially, it's a 2 x CR123A.

EDIT:
can't post the rest of the photos... I was given an error: "Sorry, but you have posted more images than you are allowed to" maybe I'll try posting the photos after somebody posted a reply, could be per post limit.

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Apr 10 2010, 01:16 PM

hahaha... somehow, reminding me of Karate-Kid -- the movie... and those are some handsome cells you got there...

===============
here goes the rest...

now on to the CR-P2:

move along, nothing special to see here...

the back of CR-P2:


the top of CR-P2:


the bottom of CR-P2:


this CR-P2 is so much easier to pry open/take apart than 2CR5, but it a little easier to short too...
yup, another short happens while pushing the batteries out, I left the metal strip intact while pushing and ignorantly didn't pay attention that the body is bare, nothing to protect them from come in contact with each other. BIG MISTAKE!!!
so the battery feels warm again and i quickly cut the metal strip. I notice however that the short happens to only 1 of the battery.
initial Voltage 6.5V, after taken apart, 1 measure 2.98V while the other measure 3.25V

the casing after taken the batteries out:


the parts together:

again, as these batteries are bare metal without any protective wrapping, don't let them come to contact with each other

something interesting here

no, that's not liquid leaking from the battery, it's rust.

wrapping the bare metal body with teflon tape:

polkiuj, now we are talking...

the blues... Ti Quark...