wow y one side so teruk 1? mean last time u just use one side to brake ?
the un-used brake pad is from the left wheel? means all this while u are relying on the right disc brake to stop ur car like the rest have said, pay few hundred $ is fine as long u are safe.
maybe u can go for bendix brand... i dont think bosch is good enough... compare price, of course cheaper but quality, im not too sure.. since urs is 1.3, u can always use manual gears to shift down without using much of ur brake pad... most of my friend driving manual always do tat.. but i never drive a manual after getting my licence... so im not too sure about it
engine braking is ok if you know when to stop the car (eg traffic lights). but is totally useless during emergencies, and it is a risk to use during spirited driving as the weight transfer is hard to predict.
question to AT drivers - how do you make the car accelerate suddenly for over-taking? i rarely drive AT, but sometimes i drive other's cars... during highway when i wanna overtake cars, the car doesnt provide enough torque to overtake, unless i step the pedal all the way down. but even like this, it takes about 1-2 seconds before the car's AT downshifts. is there a better way? thanks
QUOTE(shinjite @ Nov 16 2009, 01:44 AM)
I know its a serious problem but it made me so mad because I did servicing for the rear left brake like a lot of times within a year
1st by maddriver, then okay for a while, kena again, then did the service again at a workshop near mah place, okay, then struck again, then did again the service to both rear calipers to ensure both sides are working properly then couple of months down the road, the rear left jammed again
Its always the rear left, bloody crap!!!
why dont you just replace the calipers once and for all? dont joke around when it comes to brakes, bro...
This post has been edited by masao343: Nov 16 2009, 08:50 AM
i c. . . no wonder i feels ur car so heavy to puch compare wit last time~ btw time to reveal d truth about my weakness here tat i actually can't smell~ n cuz i came a bit late so guess it cools down tat's y i dun feel hot wen i was removing ur wheels~ sorry~
cheeann, that is not a weakness la but curious, how did it happen? anyway, the moment u said u cant smell, u know i remembered who? this cute guy from my favourite comic when i was little...
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QUOTE(wailup @ Nov 16 2009, 09:17 AM)
to force the AT do downshift for overtaking, just push the stick from 'D' to '2' lo (1.5 AT), but be careful on the speed you are running.. let say you're at 120kmh, you cant do a downshift for 1.5 AT wira.. the '2' is out of range already, rpm way high.
eh can shift the AT stick while driving one ah? i usually dare not shift in case i break something. i only shift the stick when the car is not moving but just in case, if i shifted from D to 2 while moving 120kph, what will happen? i asking coz i sometimes drive AT of other cars also... better i know than regret ma, thanks
wah it seems AT can be "played" also i didnt know, i always thought AT means you cannot play with the stick while driving you all familiar with the AT ratio, can do all those "downshift" but i think i still dare not la, some more not my own car. later the GB pecah i dunno need to rob which bank to pay the owner some more, something embarassing... i always only drive in D when i drive AT cars coz dunno what the 1, 2 or other things means (basic ones like P N and R i know la of coz)
my wira was initially a 1.5AT, so i knows lo.. can drive max 165kmh, can go up genting too.. but the AT stick get hot when i reach the top. D=Drive (normal drive, use all the 3 gears) L=Low gear (utilise 1st gear only) 2=2nd gear (utilise max to 2nd gear only) R=Reverse loh..
My AT shifting points sucks.. thats why i use L, 2, and D very frequently. if i terus use D, 3rd gear will engage at 40~50kmh. really shyt... no power. no torque.
now tat is very informative, thanks! so L only utilize the lowest gear? wah... genting climbing so wira 1.6 AT has "3" also la?
Wira 1.6 above have 4 gears, the 4th being overdrive and the ratio is freaking long
Imagine you at 180km/h, then downshift to overdrive gear, the rpm only at 4000rpm ~_~
Tried be4, no power to pull at all at 4th, so maintain 3rd all the way at 6.5K rpm at 185km/h
oh.... means the OD is strictly for highway cruising la (FC economical) but not for speed. i can live with that. actually while shopping for a wira last year, i almost bought a 1.6AT but finally didnt because frens told me the 1.6 AT GB hard to maintain, and prone is problems (and expensive too!). i already strict budget, so finally dun dare to "gamble" with the AT GB...
1.6AT got problem is because of the foremen simply pour in ATF and use local AT filter la.. i believe if you use the correct ATF, original AT filter and service it at recommended interval, then it shouldnt have so many problems.
@masao : if i was you, i will opt for the 1.6AT, then later on got money, will mod it to manual de.. more fuel efficient.
oh liddat. actually i hunted for 1.6MT but it is hard to find maybe they all hiding the car from me finally settled for the 1.5 due to time constraints. but so far, 1.5 still OK la. maybe someday when the engine age too much, i'll implant a 1.8 from proton also (MMC ones i cant afford!)
4g93p is good engine ... s.GTi's stock engine ... but its rare, hard to find nowadays ...
yeah, same as what i heard. its the same as used in the Putra, rite? anyway, something to share with u folks. the vehicle below could go up to 116mph (someone convert to kmh pls)
cant do anything and don wan to care about him jor ... car already in workshop undergoing transplant ... ... how to solve car vibration problems? ................................
wah, alvin doing transplant? apa engine u dump inside?
irritating steering vibrate, esp when air cond on .... another thing is after some time of normal usage or spirited driving, then stuck in traffic jam, no matter how deep the accelerator i press the car will still jerk (like misfiring) ... very annoying la .... another thing, my rpm needle points at the lowest mark during idle ... but when rev will go up one ...
eh alvin, i tot u already fixed tat problem along with the "mati engine suddenly" issue? sorry to hear about it your jerking, is it the same as using too high gear to climb uphill kind? like engine almost wanna mati, but still alive? maybe u sud install a vacuum gauge and ask someone how to read it. then u can monitor wats wrong with u car. when stuck traffic jam = hot engine bay = hot air enter ur U-snorkle (its behind headlamps) maybe something to do with ur air intake/sensor? just guessing la, dun scold me
QUOTE(alvinz @ Nov 16 2009, 03:28 PM)
no me la ... its my friend ... his engine dunno wat he did masuk water ... then he go do transplant (back to normal stock engine ) .... kena buttsect by his mech coz problem can be solved by a full overhaul .. with the transplant $$, even got spare to Port and Polish engine, tb, intake...
wah, the mech so KNS? if can be fixed by rm1 k (overhaul) why he suggest ur fren to change engine? farked up workshop, better warn others to avoid.
QUOTE(wailup @ Nov 16 2009, 03:31 PM)
gti 1.8 is expensive and rare too.. during my search, that engine is about 7k, where 93t is around 8k~9k. so, why not pump in somemore money to get HIGHER horsie power!!!!
fulamak... i naive, i tot proton engines are much much cheaper. if 7k, i think i'd just change car liao, seriously. if u say around 3-4k, still can la, dump in 1.6 engine or something, maybe even the 1.8 for wira? i salary-men, where got so much spare cash to spend on my beloved car?
just to share: check out his racing lines. late apex most of it, nice!
masao, since we r on 4g15 ... we stroke it to 1.6 nia .. haha
actually, the thought has crossed my mine before but i need to do more homework to know how the entire process is first. next, need to bring out calculator UPDATE: googled and found that stroking the 4G15P engine with 1.6 will cost about RM1500. then today i saw this ad, also cost rm1500... mod RM1500 for 4G15p
QUOTE(wailup @ Nov 16 2009, 03:57 PM)
3~4k only can buy 4g91 dohc... it's expensive woh...
thats the twincam 1.5 engine rite? but... got huge advantage or not ah over 4G15?
This post has been edited by masao343: Nov 16 2009, 04:20 PM
alvin: i edited, but u maybe missed. found there costing rm1500...and i'm sure it increase performance by a huge margin compared to others? mod RM1500 for 4G15p
This post has been edited by masao343: Nov 16 2009, 04:38 PM
yea i saw ur updated post .. haha ... me more towards the NA route ...
yalor, i also prefer NA (mivec, anyone?) but due to damn low budget and the crave for more power... BOT is the cheapest and quickest lor. nvm la, say say only. i also dont have rm1500 rite now to spare
wailup: a feast to your ears...hehe
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@alvin: yalor... but i hope the "time" doesn't come when i'm forced to choose either one (i'm too poor for such surprises!)
QUOTE(afosz @ Nov 16 2009, 05:36 PM)
Just tried driving using 2 but I can only stand until 80 kph, then shift to D. Maybe it just my way of driving, not used of the sound of high rpm.
i think largely depends on the gear ratio. engine has a power dip at certain RPMs after the peak, so if you refuse to upshift, sometimes may not give u extra power, but only increased FC.
QUOTE(afosz @ Nov 16 2009, 05:36 PM)
Btw wanted to ask my brake pedal. It seems that I need to press more to feel the brake. The pedal is like a bit loosen. I can press half and still move. It slows down, but between braking and moving ratio, it moves more.
better change your brake fluid, or bleed it. you're experiencing "spongy" brakes.
i wonder where can we find 4 d!*k brake .. ... LOLz ... maintint? ... hahaha lady owner? ... wira se front bumper? ... bodykits? .. sport rims? ... d!*k brakes? .. this is one hell of a lady owner ...
my guess is, the car registered under a lady's name, but used by a guy. usually (just generalizing) ladies cant be bothered with all those "specs" mentioned in the ad. ok lah, give her benefit of a doubt, maybe her husband helped her put the advertisement (that also explains the d!ck)
QUOTE(wailup @ Nov 17 2009, 07:40 AM)
fuyoh... unbelievable... she actually use the d!*k for braking?? wonder how it works leh.. kekekeke the d!*k needs to be very strong oh.. and also long lasting for wear and tear. hahahaha
i dare not try use my d!ck for braking. cannot be replaced one, dont play play
p/s: dont understand why ppl still think that "lady owner" for a car ad means the car is in better condition than a "male owner"? i think lady owner tend to forget to do servicing. example, almost all the "lady owners" i know, they start the engine immediately and drive off, never warm up the engine first (unless they wait inside car put make-up). that is why sometimes i think "lady owner" can mean a badly maintained car. wat do u guys think?
QUOTE(Kyusuke_FD3S @ Nov 17 2009, 07:45 AM)
hi every master,
i got a problem with my car now.
this morning, when i turn my key from ON to START,
my starter didnt function at all. no crank sound at all.
then, i turn my key from ON to START again, then my starter works fine and my engine get started.
after i reach my workplace, i turn off my engine, and i start again, my starter works fine.
what is the problem then ? starter ? battery ? alternator ? or what else ?
anyone experience this problem before ?
ps: my battery is new one.
no sound at all? usually means battery problems. but weird is, ur 2nd time crank it worked. so hard to say. u try loosen the negative batt terminal (loosen, not detach). start your engine, then detach the negative terminal. if ur car mati engine, that means ur alternator spoil liao. if engine still running, that means your new battery needs to be checked.
This post has been edited by masao343: Nov 17 2009, 08:53 AM
salam. morning guys! hoh?! oh my gucci! mine also feels like rosak dy.. now pull handbrake also like nothing.. just changed the brake cable last 3months..wth? u series ar rm400? mannnn...i was tinikin of doing it next month or so...aaaaahhh.. ill just use the P function then..luckily auto!
when AT set to P means the car wont move also when pushed? (as u all knw by nw, i'm a AT noob)
Lady owner always referred to in good condition I assume, considering the interior and exterior wise still nice like brand new. In term of maintenance wise, well I do agree with your statement. Mostly, not all, only knows to drive and go. When something goes wrong, just send to workshop and pay. Enough mileage, go service. If something broken or damaged, common statement heard "Eh that day already service". Yup, P is for parking (I'm MT noob)
yes u r rite, most ppl advertise "lady owner" as in "car in good condition" but we all should know better la. guys can "sayang" their car more, u know. but guys tend to drive a little more aggressively (again, in general, not say 100%) compared to ladies.
haha, u are so right about the comment ladies like to make "eh that day already serviced". when they say service, they think EVERYTHING is fixed during the service
Added on November 17, 2009, 10:15 am guys, during engine oil change, the "oil sump" drain screw-hole has started to lost its "threads" (the bunga botak). currently i using seal to make sure engine oil wont leak. how much is it to replace the entire oil sump base plate for 4G15p? i dont like the idea of sucking our old engine oil with vacuum pump. like not clean liddat. thanks
This post has been edited by masao343: Nov 17 2009, 10:16 AM
i did top overhaul last 2 months or so. things are fine, but there is one thing tht kinda bugs me. whenver the car was left idle for a very long time, say, 8 hours like tht. when i start the engine, i will warm the engine up before moving. after the engine have been warmed up, when i turned on the AC, there is this squeking sound of the timing belt. i noticed this for quite some time already, then one day i decided to open the hood and see it.
i look at the timing belt rotation speed, it was ok at first, then i tried turning on the AC, then the soudn appears, i also noticed that the speed of the timing belt has dropped and turned a bit slower before i turn on the AC. i asked my mech, he said it could be the crank pulleys and need to change it.
however, the sound is will not appear after the engine is fully warmed up and i've been driving it for a while even with the AC on. so, just wanna ask u pros here, can u guys tell me wat is wrong? i got think of spraying some lubricant to the pulleys, will it help? sorry for the long post.
if your mech is trustworthy, then listen to him. if u suspect he wants your money, then go find another mech and get a 2nd opinion. IMHO i think its not abnormal to have some squeaks from the belts when its cold. i have it when its cold at night and when i start the car in the morning. i'd think its water/vapour having gotten in between the belts and the pulleys, causing minor, harmless slips.
for your case, could be the same thing. BUT timing belt dont slip, it has teeth to prevent slips. when AC compressor comes on, it puts a load onto the engine, thus slowing down the RPM a little.
This post has been edited by masao343: Nov 17 2009, 11:00 AM