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Miniature Schnauzer

The Miniature Schnauzer is a breed of small dog of the Schnauzer type that originated in Germany in the mid-to-late 19th century. Miniature Schnauzers developed from crosses between the Standard Schnauzer and one or more smaller breeds such as the Poodle or Affenpinscher. The breed remains one of the most popular, and as of 2007 is the 11th most popular breed in the U.S

History of MIniature Schnauzer

The earliest records surrounding development of the Miniature Schnauzer in Germany come from the late 1800s. They were originally bred to be farm dogs in Germany, to keep the rats and other vermin out of the barn. In the breed's earliest stages, several small breeds were employed in crosses to bring down the size of the well-established Standard Schnauzer, with the goal of creating a duplicate in miniature. Crossing to other breeds, such as the Affenpinscher, Poodle and Miniature Pinscher, had the side effect of introducing colors that were not considered acceptable to the ultimate goal — and as breeders worked towards the stabilization of the gene pool, mismarked particolors (mixed colors) and white puppies were removed from breeding programs.

The earliest recorded Miniature Schnauzer was in 1888, and the first exhibition was in 1899. With their bold courage, the Miniature Schnauzer was originally used for guarding herds, small farms, and families. As time passed, they were also used to hunt rats, because they appeared to have a knack for it, and its small size was perfect to get into tight places to catch them.

The AKC accepted registration of the new breed in 1926, two years after they were introduced to the United States. The American Kennel Club groups this breed with the Terriers as it was developed for a similar purpose and has a similar character to the terrier breeds of the Britain and Ireland. The Miniature Schnauzer was recognized by the United Kennel Club in 1948. The United Kingdom Kennel club however, does not accept the Miniature Schnauzer as a true Terrier because it does not originate from the terrier breeds of the British Isles. Like the Tibetan Terrier and Boston Terrier it lists the Miniature Schnauzer in the Utility group for shows run under the UK Kennel Club rules such as Crufts. The FCI accepts the Schnauzer breeds but, again, does not list the Miniature Schnauzer as a Terrier.

Appearance

Miniature Schnauzers normally have a small, squarely proportioned build, measuring 12 to 14 inches (30 to 36 cm) tall and weighing between 11 and 15 pounds (5.0 and 6.8 kg). They have a double coat. The exterior fur is wiry and the undercoat is softer. The coat is trimmed short on the body, but the longer hair on ears, legs, and edge of the body, a.k.a. the "furnishings", are retained. They can be found with various colorations, including salt & pepper, black & silver, and black. White may also be found, though this color is not recognized in some countries. Miniature Schnauzers are often described as non-shedding dogs, and while this is not entirely true, their shedding is minimal and generally unnoticeable. They are characterized by a long head with bushy beard, mustache and eyebrows; teeth that meet in a 'scissor bite'; oval and dark colored eyes; and v-shaped, natural forward-folding ears. (When cropped, the ears point straight upward and come to a sharp point.) Their tails are naturally thin and short, and may be docked. They will also have very straight, rigid front legs, and feet that are short and round (so-called "cat feet") with thick, black pads

Temperament

The Official Standard of the Miniature Schnauzer describes temperament as "Alert and spirited, yet obedient to command. Friendly, intelligent and willing to please. They should never be overaggressive or timid."[3] As such they tend to be excellent watchdogs. They are often guarded of strangers until the owners of the home welcome the guest, upon which they are typically very friendly to them. "Miniature Schnauzers are not by nature aggressive, as are some of their Terrier cousins. They should be relatively fearless. Once mature, the Schnauzer has a strongly developed territorial instinct. They are ideal guard dogs as they defend vocally rather than physically. ... A good Schnauzer will bark at anyone who may appear a threat to his home. ... Schnauzers are not random, incessant barkers. They are discriminating and intelligent guard dogs that assume this duty naturally."[5]

The breed is generally good with children, recognizing that they need gentle play. Miniature Schnauzers are generally highly intelligent and easy to train. They are highly playful dogs, and if not given the outlet required for their energy they can become bored and invent their own "fun".

Schnauzers are highly prey driven (as benefits a ratting dog), and will attack other small pets such as birds and rodents. Many will also attack cats, but this may be curbed if the dog is raised with cats from a young age.

Health

While generally a healthy breed, Miniature Schnauzers may suffer health problems associated with high fat levels. Such problems include hyperlipidemia, which may increase the possibility of pancreatitis, though either may form independently. Other issues which may affect this breed are diabetes, bladder stones and eye problems. Feeding the dog low- or non-fatty and unsweetened foods may help avoid these problems. All Miniature Schnauzers should have their ears checked regularly and dried out after swimming due to a risk of infection, especially those with uncropped ears.


Cropped ear

Ear cropping, or cosmetic otoplasty, is performed on the ears of certain breeds of dogs to meet breed specifications. This procedure is done on Schnauzers, Miniature Pinscers, Dobermans, Boxers, Pit Bulls, Boston Terriers and Great Danes. However, if you own one of these breeds, you do not have to have this surgery preformed.

There is some controversy about this procedure because it is viewed as an unnecessary surgery for cosmetic purposes only. Veterinarians in Britain do not perform this surgery at all and the procedure is not taught in many veterinary teaching institutions. We offer this surgery because it is our belief that it strengthens the human-animal bond for our pets to look a certain way. Many of these breeds will look just as handsome without having their ears cut. However, I’m sure that many of you will agree that Dobermans and Great Danes are two breeds that have a completely different appearance based upon whether their ears are trimmed.

Regardless of the trimming standard, all ears cannot be trimmed alike. Variations are justified in any breed, and shape and length of the ear vary with the sex and conformation of the individual dog. The type of ear trim performed here is a ‘straight’ cut following the natural curve of the ear. This hospital does not perform ‘show cuts’. We encourage you to discuss with the Doctor or Technician your preferences on ear width and length prior to surgery.

Schnauzer 2/3 of ear left

Boxer 2/3 to ¾ of ear left

Doberman ¾ of ear left

Great Dane ¾ to 7/8 of ear left

Min Pin 2/3 to ¾ of ear left

Pit Bulls 3/5 of ear left (this is not a ‘fighting’ cut)

Boston Terrier ¾ to full trim

General Considerations

The surgery is performed at 12 weeks of age. Sometimes the surgery can be done at a later age, however, the chance of the ear successfully standing after surgery decreases with age. Even when performed at 12 weeks of age there is no guarantee that both ears will stand erect after surgery. Surgery only shapes the ear. Whether or not the ear stands up well has to do with the strength of the ear cartilage. At this age, the cartilage can usually be trained to stand erect.

All puppies having this procedure performed need to be in general good health and current on vaccinations. If a puppy is malnourished, heavily parasitized, and in poor condition, the surgery will be delayed until the health of the puppy is improved. The stress of anesthesia and surgery may suppress the puppy’s immune system and may increase susceptibility to infection.

Post Operative Care

Many ears fail to stand because of improper after-care. Scarring of the cut edge can produce undesirable effects such as contraction of the ear margin or unsightly blemishes. Immediately after surgery your pet will have its ears taped to an aluminum can or a foam block. Sutures will be removed in two weeks. Ideally, the ears will stay in position on the apparatus until then. If, however, they do not remain taped in position—please do not tape your pet’s ears at home; instead, bring your pet to us. If the tape is applied too tightly, it can interfere with blood supply and potentially cause part of the ear to die.

The number of ear wraps needed for the ears to stand varies based upon breed and individual cartilage strength. Three additional ear racks (wraps) are included with the price of your pet’s surgery. There will be an extra charge for additional ear wraps. Most puppies will need to be sedated for the ear wrap procedure. These ear wraps are usually needed from three to six weeks but may be necessary for as long as three to four months in some pets.

Your pet will be given an injection for pain control at the time of surgery. Your pet will also be sent home with the following medication—anti-inflammatory for pain control, sedative to keep the ear wraps in place, and antibiotics to help prevent infection.

Potential Complications

The biggest potential complication is one or both ears failing to stand. Other potential complications include moist dermatitis, irritation of the skin secondary to the tape adhesive, ear infection, scarring and immune suppression.

Please consult your vet regarding the ear cropping procedures.

Cropped ear miniature schnauzer


Uncropped ear miniature schnauzer


The Heredity of Colour in Miniature Schnauzers

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There are three colours accepted for the Miniature Schnauzer:

salt-and-pepper
black-and-silver
solid black
While white and parti-colour have historically occurred, these undesirable recessives are probably eradicated from today's important lines.
Salt-and-pepper includes all shades, from light to very dark. The standard states no preference, nor does it penalize the tan shading that can appear with this colour. The important factor is the distinct bands of colour found on the wire hairs. These may be any combination of black, grey, white or tan. (Clippering removes the wire coat and with it, the colour bands. The dog will eventually become the solid colour of its undercoat, but whether almost white or black, it is still a salt-and-pepper).

The black-and-silver grows solid black wire on the body. Dogs of good colour will also carry a black overlay into the leg furnishings and masking on the face. A black undercoat is essential.

Likewise with solid blacks. This colour presents the most difficulty for the exhibitor, as the colour intensity of the wire jacket is usually superior to that of the clippered areas and leg furnishings, which are scissored. It is by no means certain that a black coat will also have a black undercoat to go with it! A black coat with a light grey undercoat (thus light grey legs!) really presents a challenge to the groomer.

Black-and-silver is recessive to the other colours. To be of this colour, a puppy must receive the gene from each parent. When black-and-silver parents are mated together, the result is 100 percent black-and-silver offspring.

Salt-and-pepper is dominant to black-and-silver. A salt-and-pepper may carry the gene for black-and-silver and produce the colour when mated to another carrier. There is a marker trait that often identifies theses carriers - a small white spot of white directly above the nose!

Black is dominant over the other colours. To be black, a puppy must have at least one black parent. A homozygous black will produce only black puppies, regardless of the colour of its mate.

For several years, the CKC has been accepting the registrations of black Mini Schnauzers born to non-black parentage. Repeated correspondence with the registrar seems to have resulted in no action. The CKC regularly cancels Labrador Retriever litters when black puppies are reported from yellow parents, yet it continues to register equally questionable blacks in our breed.

By the time a puppy is ready for individual registrations, it is old enough that its colour can be identified. At best, these discrepancies reveal appalling ignorance on the part of the breeder. At worst, falsification must be suspected.

One would hope that the powers that be at the CKC would begin to pay a little more interest to a situation that undermines the integrity of the registry.

[sources from http://www.mscc.ca/article.html]

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 02:36 PM

Join us in Facebook today!

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=114869554112&ref=ts

Gathering Information:

3RD Miniature Schnauzer Gathering

Date : 8 Feb 2009
Time : 9.00 am
Venue : Central Park, Bandar Utama



2ND Miniature Schnauzer Gathering

Date : 23 November 2008
Time : 8.00 am
Venue : Central park, Bandar Utama



Whoever have info & picture of first gathering please let me know.

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 02:22 PM

PROUD OWNERS OF MS!! (pm me to be added into the list)

1. Jason86 - Toro < salt and pepper >
2. babymiki - Meeko < salt and pepper >
3. lilcatty - Copper & Jade < salt and pepper >
4. sbux - Miki < salt and pepper >
5. Madmoz - Siu Kat <black and silver > & Siu Wan < white >
6. chillie - Sparky < salt and pepper >
7. ed0gawa - Girl Girl
8. j3ffm0n - Mojo , Puffy & Yoda
9. freestyler<Jc & Ivy>- Odie - Female <salt & pepper>
10.neorelated4-Schnauzy < salt and pepper >
11.kennyguy-Didi(penang) < salt and pepper >
12.Jessyca_loh-Mookie(penang) < salt and pepper >
13.THT-Coco < salt and pepper >
14.stupidbump - Dido < salt and pepper >
15.waichee86&Kerrie - Daisy & Happy < salt and pepper >
16.Junnie87 - Dada < salt and pepper >
17.mike@mike - buttercup < salt and pepper >
18.nicteh - Lucas<Black & silver>
19.clementcpteh - Rocky<salt n pepper> ,ricky <black n silver>,Rusty<black>
20.arhong - baby Belle < salt & pepper >
21. redzjack - milky <white> , bebe <black n silver>
22.Ertifex - HA KAO < salt and pepper >
23.tonyqcc - Jim Jim - male < salt and pepper >
24.Kenny83-BoBo < salt and pepper >
25.evelyn.tlc-Peanut - black & silver
Pumpkin - black & silver
Pancake - black & silver
Popcorn - black and silver
26.babykaeru-Roxy<black and silver>
27.alucard_my-Mojo < salt and pepper >
28.wallance13-Vivi <Black and silver > DOB : 14/09/2005
29.Winnie_sia87& vincent_ng86 - BoyBoy < salt and pepper >
30.fernando torres -Bou Bou < salt and pepper >
31.haven7 - hugo boi < salt and pepper > ( DOB:21st march 2008 )
32.yeing-bobby < salt and pepper >
33.edwinlcw - max <salt and pepper>
34. Nariel - Lilo salt n pepper
Zoel 1yr+ salt n pepper
35. Friedchicken - Onyx - male<black>
36. Karie - Pluto - male<black & silver>
37. H71Y6 - Kimi (Salt & Pepper)
38. geNesis623 - Pepper - female<salt & pepper>
39. pioneer411 & Shan0407 - Mika - Female<salt & pepper> (DOB:11/02/2008)
40.LingLing - Isaac - male<salt & pepper>(DOB:2 Sept 2008)
41. Iamadrian - Whisky<salt & pepper>
42.asa - Carrie<Salt and pepper>(21 July 2005), Tin-tin (white)
43.aragonlee - Kenji <Male,Pure White Miniature Schnauzer>(DOB: 16 December 2008)
44.Vickie - Puffy - <Female - Black & Silver>( D.O.B.: 12th July 2008)
45.Rayne - Scottie< Male, Salt & Pepper>( DOB: 20th April 2007)
46.limgp1976 - snowy, scrabby and mei mei
47. bazaar91 - cooper (white)
48. Candy&Vincent - Wilbur (salt & pepper), WaWa (Salt & Pepper)
49. red-queen - Ramses (salt & pepper) DOB: 18th January 2009
50. mrtwotails - Jamie (DOB 1/11/2008)
51. Asurada - bobo (salt n pepper)
52. psyko881208 - jojo (salt n pepper)
53. k9groom - phoephie (salt n pepper)
54. kelvin5807 - genius (white)
55. robbylover89 - elmo (salt n pepper)
56. daphne1985 - murphy (black n silver)
57. purpleglitz - Augus (Black n silver)
58. MyCoffee - Julius (Salt & Pepper)
59. jacqueline515 - Jack
60. siewthaw - Eeyo (Salt & Papper) Age:2 yrs ++ Female, Toby (White) Age: 4 months ++ Male
61. louisfjh - Dollar (salt & pepper)
62. gavin_lee - Sam (Black & Silver)
63. zWeii - Tobbie (salt & pepper) 23 Feb 2010
64. prettypinkpetals - Smokey <salt and pepper> [DOB: 6 August 2006]
65. Eugene & Elsie - Winnie (Champion Dog - Retiree, 9yrs old) Colour: Salt & Pepper

TQ

Those active PM me to add you in this list! I am forgetful at times...!!! Forgive me!

If I have missed anybody, please PM me, as I might miss some post while browsing the pages Don't get offended if I missed you out ok!

Note: I am stopping to add the photos of the individual MS, working on something else. Meanwhile, visit our MS Group in Facebook to view the cuties photos!

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=114869554112&ref=

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Dec 4 2012, 01:26 AM

Potty train your miniature schnauzer

[source from http://www.training-dogs.com/potty-training-dogs.html]

Potty training dogs is easiest when they are young puppies, and this rather long page outlines a basic method.

With adult dogs and older puppies who are not housebroken, you often have more of an uphill battle because they have some undesirable habits to unlearn. There's a section on potty training dogs when they are older further down this page.

The key to success is the timing of IN and OUT. Young puppies take IN food or water and usually within 15 or 20 minutes, they pee or poop OUT.

So your job is to get the puppy to where you want him to be in time for that OUT moment.
You have a life and you won't always be there, even if you are just answering the phone. So cleanup is part of the process of potty training dogs.

Basics of the Method
Here are the basics of a simple potty training routine for a puppy.

1. Take him outside (and stay till he's done or a long time has gone by with no results):

As soon as he wakes up in the morning (You don't have to be awake.. much!)

Right after his breakfast

Right after his lunch

Right after his naps

Right after taking him out of his crate

Right after his dinner

Right after any snacks of much size

Right before his bedtime

If he whimpers in the night

Praise him in a cheery voice when he produces.

2. Only feed him and give him water when you can take him outside right away. Especially in a hot or dry climate, you would normally never let dogs be without access to fresh water, but for the weeks that you are training, this limitation will speed up the potty training process for your dog. There will be fewer accidents and so the dog will more quickly learn what you want. But use your judgment about any risk of dehydration.

3. When he does pee or poop where you don't want him to, quietly clean it up in a matter-of-fact way. This isn't a time to talk either loving or annoyed talk to him; essentially ignore him while you do the cleanup. Certainly never yell or physically punish him in any way.

4. When you and he are both home, keep him with you as much as you can, whether at your side (a leash can be handy for this once he accepts it), in a confined area, or in a crate, or otherwise nearby. (If you are crate-training, do keep the puppy in the crate as little as possible.)

Tips
### Keep in mind that you are building a relationship at the same time that you are teaching him one of his first lessons. Think sometimes about what the world must look like from his perspective, filled with giants who are sometimes very loving and other times confusingly angry. Practice patience!

### Potty training dogs isn't always fun -- you are waiting for the puppy to go, in whatever your climate can dish up and at all times of day or night. If the puppy is running loose in a safe place, this is a good time to do a few stretching exercises while keeping an eye on him. Even if the puppy is on a leash, you may be able to do some simpler ones. If you do a bit of gardening or something else, be sure it doesn't get your attention so much that you are distracted from your job of watching the puppy every moment, so you know when he has done his job.

### Don't take him back in the house the very moment he has done his stuff. He is likely to notice that the fun of being outside ends abruptly once he eliminates, and this is not an idea you want him to come up with!

### My husband and I train our puppies by saying "Do your stuff!"just as they pee or poop. After they have heard the phrase maybe a few dozen times, you can begin using it to encourage them just before they are actually doing their stuff. Eventually, it will be helpful when you are walking them as adults. I must admit I have never had a dog who heard me say that and always immediately performed, but it does help them get the idea. It's just part of my routine for potty training my dogs.

### If you are clicker-training, you could click when the dog did his stuff where you wanted him to, then give him a treat a few moments later, when he is done.

### Physically, puppies vary in how old they are before they have control of elimination, but if you bring your puppy home around the age of 8 weeks, which is considered the ideal age, expect a month or two of accidents. They will become rarer as this time goes on. I did have one Australian Shepherd who never once went in the house, from 8 weeks of age. On the other hand, my Basenji pup hated the heavy rain where we lived then and used the living room carpet for longer than I care to remember. I wasn't sure how much was physical and how much was her attitude.


This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 02:26 PM

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Added on September 27, 2009, 2:11 pm

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 02:11 PM

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Added on September 27, 2009, 2:12 pm

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 02:12 PM

I have also encounter vets that give such advice. But it just sound not nice shaving poodle feet on a Schnauzer! And why do you shave all his fur?

Shaving poodle feet doesn't really stops them from licking the feet. But it helps to keep the feet dry faster, and minimize the chances of getting yeast infection. But it looks ugly on a Schnauzer So, as a good owner to have a good handsome pretty looking Schnauzer, more effort is needed to make sure the feet is dry, and stop them from licking the feet. If the dog is having serious yeast infection already, shaving away the fur for the treatment does make sense, but keeping "bald" leg for the entire life of a Schnauzer is just plain... ugly in my point of view.

If the vet doesn't gives you any cream, your MS might not having bad yeast infection, just some minor problem. So just keep it dry and stop his bad licking habit.

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 02:33 PM

i fel my dollar abit stupid...= =
learn thing so slow...
until no still dunno himself call dollar..
still dunno to come when we call & dunno how to sit...
my pug easy to know & learn fast when we teach.

wat snack u all give to urs schnauzer??

we shaved his fur off coz it was too tangled..i tried to maintain it but its hard the groomer(we went to a new grommer to try out the shop) kept the fur too long dy..then he keep licking himself so no choice have to shave it all off..i knw it looks ugly but it would be better coz i dun wan him to suffer frm all the combing of his fur..anyways furs would grow.

i tried stopping him from licking his feet but he cant seem to stop himself.. im doing wat i can..

This post has been edited by chelle84: Sep 27 2009, 09:01 PM

Gratz to V9

i give my boy Jerkhigh Bacon..it smells really good..

It might be he is still itchy, or its already a habit to him. Distract him whenever he try to lick his paw. When he try to lick then you call him over and play with him. Make him forget to lick. Try and see can or not

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Added on September 27, 2009, 11:56 pmHaha.. not stupid, but I feel MS memang stubborn a bit sometimes. If your Dollar will chase after food, even his kibbles, then its best choice use kibbles as treat But I think Jerhigh treats quite popular, and not really expensive. If you got the budget, get some treats that are better, like using better ingredient. Nowadays, there are many treats that says will help the skin & coat, and others.. you can try them out

Or you can give fresh foods, like apple to them.

Stay away from human snacks =)

This post has been edited by iluv2zzz: Sep 27 2009, 11:56 PM

guys...wanna ask something
actually how did u guys socialize your MS?
what did socialize really mean?
i bring my phoebe go socialize with my friend's beagle (same age, 3months)
but they always end up with growl, bark, and bite too
how to make them become friends?

Some dogs play by growl/bark/bite.. to what extend is their biting?

phoebe bite beagle's tale, legs...
then my friend's beagle bite my phoebe's neck, ear, legs...
every time i saw any of them start to growl or bite, i will stop them for awhile de
but every time they also still like that

Boy boy just done castrate operation last 2 days. He's didnt like what doctor said, after operation no appetite. He still can eat as usual and he drink water for 2 minutes non stop when he reached home. He even kacau big dog at the vet centre. haha...

ya ok..i'll try that..thx 4 the advice


Does anyone knw where to get a front carrier bag for my dog..i did find 1 in lowyat(petstore) but the seller said its max 3kg..
I tried in some pet shop in pj area and i cant seem to find it..

You can try Ikano pet shop.

Let them play.. puppy play by biting one. Just observe while they play. When get too aggressive then separate them.

ok...thanks for that advice
i will observe them closely when they play i guess
hope got chance to join MS gathering in the future...
then my phoebe can make more friends