Owh yea, if it's like that then im looking forward to your outcomes =)

TTL is a mechanism where the flash will adjust the power automatically according to the situation you are shooting. So you wouldn't need to adjust manually everytime unless you need for special purposes.

You should learn to use bouncer/bounce card instead of diffuser. Diffuser wastes the flashgun's power. A bounce card can be self-made easily and it performs even better than a diffuser. (if you are rich you can buy DEMB diffuser, which somehow looks more like a bounce system for me)

For hand shakes, it requires a lot of experience and practice. Or just use higher shutter speed / higher aperture (low F number)/ Higher ISO / Flash gun.

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Added on December 2, 2009, 11:33 pmAnd tripod too for night shots/ light trails/ landscape etc =)

This post has been edited by zellleonhart: Dec 2 2009, 11:33 PM

Trust me, bounce card/bouncer saves more power than a diffuser. To get a similar exposure, using a bounce card needs a lower flash power than using a diffuser. And the effect of bounce card produces even smoother shadow and eliminates harsh highlights.

Well later experience will tell you. But of course a diffuser is more convenient, just attach and that's it. Bounce card need to consider the angle of the reflection of lights, etc.

It's not about how much detail is focused. You will never be using F36 though, F18 will be excessive already. Normally the lowest aperture i use is F12 or F14.

In daily shots and most of my shots, I use the highest aperture (for my lens it's F3.5-5.6). why? because it creates a good bokeh (the unfocused area which is blur) and it can capture in low light well. No body uses more than F8 in normal shots unless you are shooting a landscape or trying to focus on many parts.

In normal shots you just want an specific object to be focused right? If you are shooting a person, of course if the person is sharply focused and the background is blurred, it will be a better photo. I am afraid I'm not that good in explaining, well keep practicing using different aperture, you will figure out which to use naturally

EDIT:
owh i noticed in previous page you are shooting something like landscape. But there's no meaning or subject in the photo. If you are focusing on the tree, then use high aperture (3.5~7.1 will be enough), ISO use the LOWEST since it's daytime and you have a TRIPOD!

If you are trying to focus on everything, F8.0~12.0 will be more than enough. and ISO don't use auto, set it manually =)

This post has been edited by zellleonhart: Dec 2 2009, 11:53 PM

Yea it's a bounce card also. but i dont use that, i custom make one bigger one.

Yea i think more versatile. but cannot go far. if wan go far then direct shoot lo... or use diffuser, but i dont have one.

I would like to take it but no money =x

Wah u wan give me for free? really?

==

Why i can't shoot like this



And i get like this


I bounce the flash and use ISO 400 already T.T why still so harsh and not natural like the 1st photo? I know my gear is not as good, D40 + kit lens, 1st photo is using prime lens, but is there anything I can do to improve the natural feeling?

I can't say my bounce card not good, cuz it can reflect a lot of light. I just use a cardboard with pure white A4 paper and tie with rubber band on my flash. If bounce card not good then it will be underexposed already le..

Body and lens not good? Haiz

Diffuser and bounce card? Can explain in detail? I only know how to make a bounce card. What material should i use?

I know about Demb diffuser but it's rather expensive for me...

Anywhere got sell those velcro straps? Using rubber band is not convenient. and Im searching for suitable material for the front diffuser now... Tracing paper can help? But i need a plastic though.

Just open your pop up flash in your D60, then switch on your Di622, press the MODE button until the orange light BLINKS (not just light up). then u can adjust the power and flash wirelessly

Backpack u can't get for RM200 if you want good brand... I am using Kata DR-467, i got it at RM320, maybe u can consider about it... Not as sturdy as lowepro but this looks better and has AW proof (all weather proof)...

I wrote a very short review here...
http://crystallizedmemory.blogspot.com/200...dr-467-bag.html

This post has been edited by zellleonhart: Dec 5 2009, 08:59 PM

Lowepro fastpack can just turn to your waist and you can take your camera, but it's not convenient cuz i have the kata and my fren is using fastpack. You need to open the cover infront only can unzip the zip and then take out the camera, while kata u just need to swing the bag to your front (when u carry it on your right shoulder only) and then take it.

Depends on what way do you prefer. And lowepro doesn't have all weather proof...

Here's a very detailed comparison between lowepro fastpack 250 and kata dr467 =)
http://thatpixelgeek.com/2008/09/kata-467-...o-fastpack-250/

This post has been edited by zellleonhart: Dec 6 2009, 11:14 AM

No they are not the same. Lowepro is easier to take out the camera cuz it's side loading. But i like kata because it looks better and doesn't tell ppl "come rob me i have DSLR" XD

Lowepro looks very nerdy, very solid, not that fashionable IMO. But the build quality is very very good, its padding is better than kata.

But kata is cheaper, and DONT BUY at shops outside like lowyat plaza, they sell for RM499 or even more expensive. You can buy in lowyat trade zone, it's cheap.

Some are well exposed! Prime lens no need flash also bright T.T
how much ISO u used?

200 can get so good exposure... If with flash no need say, sure nice T.T
Mine ISO 400 with flash also underexposed... kitlens only >.<

if u have flash, use ISO 400 + your 35mm then perfect le...

I hope next year this time i already own a prime lens
or a D90

No im using Nissin Di622 with a bounce card. The showgirl is not underexposed, but the background is underexposed. ISO i used 400, aperture lowest possible (F5.6 i think), shutter speed i manually put 1/50, and that's the lowest speed i can handheld with least handshake.

here's the outcome:


i can't get photo like this: (not my photo)


So i think either it's because i dont have a prime lens, or my D40 noise control is weak (ISO 800 is very noisy) or i dont have a good bounce card. But i think it's because of the noise control though, i should have used ISO 800 =( or get a prime..