Yo,

I just got the Quark AA Tactical today from Polkiuj. Also, he got me a 14500 I wanted for it. Thanks dude, you rock

Okay... I manage to do some quick beam comparison test with the Quark AA vs Fenix LD10 and TK40. Kinda want to rate its lumen difference, and results were more than it's specifications (based on Fenix's).

Two test distance 1) 5 meters from wall and 2) 10 meters from furniture.

Firstly, battery comparison - According to this thread (picture heavy!), there were brightness difference using NiMH and LiIon. But I've tested with Imedion AA and AW14500, did not notice any significant difference as in linked thread. (I've tested both batteries at high and turbo in comparison with the TK40 medium and high, so it was easier to remember the different beam brightness).

So next, further tests were done with the LiIon battery. At Turbo mode, the brightness matches TK40 at high! Which Fenix rated this at 277 lumens The Quark AA felt warmth after about 30 seconds. And the TK40 medium mode matches the Quark AA at high which Fenix rated at 90 lumens (TK40 does appear slightly brighter than the Quark on both modes, more floody hotspot).

As for the LD10, Fenix rate turbo mode at 120 lumens. At high, beam to beam comparison showed that the Quark AA was close to it, very close that it looked like the same brightness (my LD10 with SMO does appear more neutral ).

Quark lumen rating appears a lot different. In their specifications, turbo is at 90 lumens, but my test showed it's close to 277 lumens. Hrm, I wonder if their current draw specs were accurate too.

I see.. after reading your post, i went to compare with a new Duracell AA battery provided in the package. Tested at 1 meter, and compared again with 14500. It's hard to tell.. So having 2 Quark AA would be the best comparison. Anyway won't be testing any further.

Well, hope you get your Quarks soon, they are sweet! New XP-G emitters coming?, AAA? wow..

Hey Walter, this post is for you, maybe for all who owns Quark AA.

Found out some info at Quark thread part 5... I noticed your 14500 battery jacket had a tear near the negative end, you should use electrical tape to cover that gap. If that dangling piece goes missing you leave a portion exposed to short circuit.

Here's why, bare with me, trying to explain as simple as I can. 14500 is longer than normal AA. Notice how the battery negative end are the same level with the Quark body. The Quark body need to touch the tailcap ring to have a connection. There's an o-ring in the middle of the tailcap which protect most of the 14500 from any direct connection, but only until its edges. The 14500 jacket at the edges is preventing any short circuit. So take note.

7777 has acknowledged this issue and they are coming out with new rings, don't have much info and I think the new rings will be 1-2mm thicker with a circular gap, so only the body touches the ring earlier. They should have made the body 1mm longer in the first place. Friction is my concern now. Hope that all these little things will be solved in the XPG models.

But hey, let this not stop anyone from getting Quark, it's still one of the very best EDC

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Added on September 3, 2009, 10:39 amperhaps u're right, need 2 quark to see the real difference.

Ah, its ok, no need for the measure



This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 3 2009, 10:39 AM

Hey its good to hear from you susuman! Yea, I knew 7777 specs was current to the LED, i may have word out as current draw instead, sorry for misunderstanding. But it's confirm that with LiIon on the QAA, it's definitely drawing more than 350ma to the LED at turbo. 7777 specifications might be with NiMH, since brightness is confirmed to be different with LiIon. I will do a current draw test on my QAA with LiIon, NiMH and Alkaline tonight. With the buck and boost circuit, it's more accurate to "guess" how much is going to the LED. Unlike boost only circuit, current draw measurement will be alot higher and can't tell how much is going to the LED.

Note that XPE can take up to 700ma. Quark just max it to 450 because of thermal design of the head.


No, you cannot replace any buck boost circuit flashlight with 14500 unless the manufacturer says so. Like 7777 says it can take 0.9-4.2. The buck and boost electronic circuit for the Quark can handle voltage up to 4.2. Some flashlight specification with buck boost circuit might not necessary take 4.2 LiIon batteries.

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Added on September 3, 2009, 3:00 pmOk, check this thread out if you like about Quarks, I find that Part 2 has more answers for my questions about Quark lights. There are alot more discussion but its good to hear from 7777 themselves.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 3 2009, 03:00 PM

What susu trying to say also is that I think there's no difference in lumen output between the two battery type. The driver is quite different from the Quark AA behavior. Just more runtime with 18650.

The 18650 tested must be either 2400-2600mAH.

*Oh btw, is your P3D still under warranty? can try and get it replaced

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 3 2009, 05:02 PM

Ah okay, for your future Fenix needs, there's a local dealer Gadgetworld2U in Subang Square. I get my lights from there and they will cover warranties purchased from them.

I'm using CRC Dielectric Grease , meant for o-rings and prevents corrosion. Bought from local Ace, hard to find already. I also use it on the threads. What I like about this is that it has a firm and smooth feel when twisting.

You got any details for your lube u bought? If its for diving equipment, then it must be very good already. Since it has direct contact with salt water.

*Oh btw, I'm using 3-IN-ONE Contact Cleaner to clean my flashlight threads and o-rings. It is safe on electronics and non-conductive, it dissolves grease, oil and dirt. Works well.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 3 2009, 07:18 PM

Hi old newspaper, Welcome!

Nice collection, yeah Gadgetworld2u might have those glow in the dark you looking for. They also carry various quality brands of flashlights like Fenix, Tiablo, Olight.

I see you are waiting for a Quark. We have a new local Quark dealer too Should see Polkiuj in LYN.

Weiii rookiedaddy, flashlight collector now grease collector also? nuts Which one you are using now for your flashlights?

I read krytox 50/50 is most recommended by CPF'ers, can't find the post yet. You got any link reference? Would like to read the technical part of the 50 50.

The one I'm using now seems sufficient already

har, was that intentional or what.. David from 47 seems to be giving more info of it soon, thread here

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 4 2009, 12:51 AM

Thanks both of u for the links regarding krytox.

Here's the current draw measurements I did late last night for the Quark AA Tactical... pewpew!

High 70 lumens, current to LED = 250ma (4sevens spec):
Ikea (1500mah) @ 1.482v --- 1.26A
Powerex Imedion (2100mah) @ 1.280v --- 1.26A
AW14500 (750mah) @ 3.87v --- 250ma

Turbo 90 lumens, current to LED = 350ma (4sevens spec):
Ikea @ 1.482v --- 1.27A
Powerex Imedion @ 1.280v --- 1.26A
AW14500 @ 3.87v --- 950ma

Medium 18 lumens, current to LED = 50ma (4sevens spec), sorry I only measured this with 14500:
AW14500 @ 3.87v --- 30ma
**Measurements on Alkaline and NiMH should have higher current draw because of lower voltage hence boost circuit

I assume the buck and boost drivers appears to be intelligent. Driving the boosted power it wants and bucking appropriately for regulation. Noticed how it wants the same current at high and turbo modes for AA batts. I should measure on the other low, low modes. David from 4sevens explains his technology:


Btw, I'm sure with 14500 current to the LED is more, like equivalent brightness to CR123^2 700ma? just assumptions.


Just for comparison, boost only circuit measurements for Fenix LD10 I did earlier. I did for all modes except turbo, and HKJ from CPF did his own with NiMH.

Energizer Lithium Photo @ 1.70v:
Low, med, high --- 90ma, 360ma, 2.3A

Eneloop:
Low, med, high, turbo --- 90ma, 540ma, 1320ma, 2100ma.

Noticed how buck and boost circuit handle High and Turbo in comparison with boost only circuit. It will "squeeze" out current to drive the LED at constant rate until voltage drops low enough to sustain and the light starts to dim. Cheaper method but it works.

***corrected my statement***
Also, an interesting note about Lithium primaries behavior for handling high voltage draw. Have not done more research, yet.

David claims, Quark lights have protection at 0.9v to protect NiMH. But not for LiIon.
Info here if you don't want to load from CPF:


Enjoy your Quarks!

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 4 2009, 11:39 AM

Titanium Quarks picture updates!





David is a real sneaky bugger... notice those colorful little lights up there? It has to be non other the Quark AAA!!!

Thread has been updated here at CPFMarketplace, and more pics!

You can request clips. Have to mention whether you want or not when doing pre-order. But.... no more stock! 4sevens.ca are taking pre-orders still if you're desperate.. it's a long wait. Polkiuj also no more stock and he said he should have ordered more

I chose quark coz of the clip When I was using the LD10, always wished it had a clip, it's easier to carry around with it.

But then, also for the knurling, li-ion, buck-boost, xpe, programmable, forward-clicky.....

"need a light?"

Got a cool shot of optimus with some of his new "cannons"

lol, how did you manage to see the copyright? pic was taken and edited by me, but not my camera equipment

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Added on September 6, 2009, 3:14 pmah, i know how to check di

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 6 2009, 03:14 PM

Regarding the new LD series CLIP.

Here some info from 4sevens:


So, no info on existing owners of LD series about the clip and we won't be getting any for free. I'm very dissapointed with their marketing strategy on this. They should protect investments of LD series owners by having the new body+clip compatible with the current LD series. So current owners can purchase the upgrade with a lower price, instead of forcing to buy a whole new flashlight, with the same LED technology, same circuit, same specs. You are paying the same price for another LD10/20 you owned for knurling and clip - That's it. I may also think they might make more sale for selling upgrades to protect customer's investment than just selling a whole new flashlight. But of course it will interest new buyers.

I don't doubt their quality though. I have Fenix flashlights but this idea is kinda ridiculous man...

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Added on September 7, 2009, 12:16 pmMy QAA so far still perfect, table drop only and been my EDC since. But will expect some chips, sure to kena one. You might have dropped it with a little force? on rough "terrain"?

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 7 2009, 12:16 PM

hey thanks! glad u loved it

5 foot drop was wow, high.. and no internal damage, battery surrounding ok too? Haha, i have to say thanks to you for doing these "tests" So we'll know how good these lights are, despite of the chipped anodized part, the rest remains protected. Yea we can meet there again, and with a bigger group?

i havent been to the KD Trail

M2XC4 wow! congrats, and im sure the wait was worth it! You took pic and upload it so fast huh..

If we go for camping, we'll bring lesser lights to compensate luggage and food weight, more practical I guess, but it'll be fun too. But if we have a gathering, these guys can bring the whole car full of lights!!

I don't own any surefires, but reviews I came across for E2E was sweet, don't sell it! It looks like you hit a dud... it's unatural for a Xenon bulb to have *POOF* so fast. Did you check the bulb closely if the filamen was snapped or there's a black spot? You could check the bulb assembly. Rookiedaddy is a fan of surefire i guess , he may help you with some mods or replacement.

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Added on September 9, 2009, 12:17 pmoh wow ok, looks like the guys in CPF talks about using rechargeables are all modded..

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 9 2009, 12:20 PM