holy smokes! (not that any smoke is holy but holy smokes!) nice collection man! Is that a Lumapower MVP SSC P7? and the DEFT?

Yea, mistaken

Btw, some cool gathering pics all the way from toronto David from 4sevens is in there too. The last gathering you guys had all take group photos of flashlight, but no human group photo

Hey Rookiedaddy, just read some info about LF Seraph (didn't know what was it ) but can't see pics right now You're getting this mod for your surefire?

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 10 2009, 10:42 AM

Interesting, same info here from Lumensfactory?. Technically, why choose a Xenon? Or you're just an incan fan?

Hi Friedricetheman, thanks for your intro, info and welcome to the Bright Side!

About surefire lights, I'll let the owners comment But the price is a lot more than pelican lights. Slight cheaper than Surefire but of similar quality and popular are Fenix, Quark, Jetbeam, Eagletac, Olight, Tiablo and depending on which model you're looking at.

Are you looking for lights that are speficic for diving? I own Fenix lights and a Quark but I can't really say that they're good for diving. Even though manufacturer's spec is IPX-8 standard, I only trust these lights can be submerge in swimming pool 1-3m deep for limited time. But not so sure about higher preasure like diving. Perhaps someone here with that experience can tell us. Don't get me wrong but these lights I've mentioned are very good for their electronics, regulation, user interface, everday use and they can take unusual punishment. Just that diving category might be different.

How deep do you dive and how's your pelican nemo holding up? Can you tell us the model you're using?

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 10 2009, 03:14 PM

You know, i kinda prefer the various UI that these brands (fenix, 4sevens, etc) offer over surefire

Ah yes..

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 10 2009, 06:54 PM

Found some discussions for Dive lights from CPF. Pelican, wolf-eyes mentioned and one guy recommending Intova dive lights with a Cree LED which he has been using for a year. Well if Friedricetheman still looking for dive lights

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Added on September 11, 2009, 12:21 amHey btw, once all the Quark Ti arrives and distributed, want to have a Gathering?... Or earlier also can.

Would like to checkout some range of lights you guys have, and been playing around, modded and NEW ones. Would be cool to just chat and chill. I'm sure it'll benefit everyone and nothing's like real life BEAMSHOTS

I'm just suggesting and it'll would be awesome if a gathering like this can happen again.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 11 2009, 12:21 AM

Suggestion:

For the price of the M6 from Ace Hardware (RM2k+??). You can get the EagleTac M2XC4 Neutral White (from Philightsophy) and get the JetBeam M1X (from Nexro). Those two lights reach 600-700 lumens max. You'll need lights that have different modes to preserve runtime. M2XC4 and M1X (with extender) runs on 2x 18650 batteries each. The neutral white on the Eagletac might be easier to see in fog/rain. The Jetbeam M1X has a cooler tint but it also has a tighter beam and it's a thrower light. You don't get as much of the beam bouncing through the fog compared with the Fenix TK40 (I have TK40 btw, loving it, it's more of a flood light, good thrower too). The user interface and handling for the M2XC4 and M1X will be a little confusing for a newbie handling such high powered lights! You'll get used to it.

Next, buy Ultrafire Li-ON charger Model WF-139 and 8x (or more) AW18650 Li-ON protected batteries from Gadgetworld2u, or whoever has. If you're gonna use more than 200+ lumens constantly, you'll need spare batteries.

To calculate your runtime configuration and how often you are using it in between your 12 hours required period, I suggest some research:
Jetbeam M1X review
EagleTac M2XC4 Cool White review (But get the neutral white)
Info from EagleTac website. See under specifications for runtimes and neutral white lumens.


Some additional info I feel people should know about their lights: Jetbeam M1X has no parisitic drain! But the EagleTac M2XC4 has a small amount in little miliamps.
Info here

Sorry if it's too much info and I don't know about surefire lights If you are new to Lithium ION batteries, I have info on that too! Care and maintenance.

So many responses, cool

Thanks for the update Philightsophy. Regarding the parasitic drain, I just mentioned for the new user knowledge. But you are right that it won't affect the runtime much. You don't carry M1X? I'll be checking out ur links..

Just to mentioned models for Friedricetheman, they are Fenix LD20, Quark AA^2. They touch 90 lumens on high and 170++ on turbo. AA batts should be easier to manage I guess. But neutral white only available for Quark AA^2 at the moment. Come to think of it, the cool white on the LD20 also not bad right, I think it can still manage well in foggy situations.

Just to add, IOI Mall new wing Ace Hardware seems to have a bigger flashlight section. They carry lots of Maglites Incan and LEDs. They have a couple pelicans, rayovacs and streamlights. But personally I feel they are still behind time. Not looking at Fenix, EagleTac for example. Brands like Coleman, Rayovac, Energizer, has upgraded their LEDs and have applicable lights and lantern that people can actually use.

Lots of CPF members get stuff from Dealextreme too, and I remember susuman said 1 week delivery to Malaysia

Cool, I'll keep this in mind thanks

If it's flashlights, what did you buy?

never knew u did a vid. I'm like going thru V1 bit by bit.. zzzzz

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Added on September 12, 2009, 10:30 pmWow! u ordered Quark Ti's too darn.. U know 4sevens is coming out with their AAA soon, since you're a little light fan, David promised it's gonna be something cutting-edge. If you haven't known, i've just add to your waiting burden.

I like to see your Cree R2 mod end result if you can post pics, feel free to post about the process too

Let us know what you think of the MTE SSC P7 when u get it



This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 12 2009, 10:30 PM

hi MMORPGHunter, yeah, the LED lights we were talking about are good for camping and blackouts, weather and water resistant too They can be acceptionally bright, and offer various brightness level from low to max. Using some of the latest in LED technology that many are sheltered from it or never heard of. And some battery technology that seem alien techno like 3.7v Li-ON for example. It's like having an epic or legendary item in a MMO game. So, interested in buying one?


Hey i thought the light looks cool la..

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 14 2009, 10:16 AM

It looks so cool!!! Like some advance cryogenic capsule, or nuclear bomb


Hey, good choice of light!

here is a quote from Selfbuilt's review, difference with MKII, and I recommend it:
"The T100C2 Mark II is a beefed up version of EagleTac "intermediate" line. Slightly more built-up and equipped than the personal series P100A2 and P100C2, the T100C2 is aimed at the tactical group (if you'll pardon the image). The Mark II designates a revised build, with enhancements and improvements across the feature set (although I don't have the original T100C2 to directly compare). It also features more customizability and accessories than the personal line"

I think it'll be awesome in your paintball adventures

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 15 2009, 04:39 PM

In addition to Susuman's answers..
Yes, TK20 can take Alkalines (1.5), NiMH(1.2) and Lithiums(1.8)


(sorry LONG answer, but I felt it was necessary)
Leaking depends on several factors, when it was manufactured, how much capacity was used vs how long it will be kept from the last time being used. Also, if you use different voltage of any chemistries in TK20 = 1.5 & 1.0 (in series) example, the performance will be as good as the 1.0 and both batteries runtime will be reduced alot from their normal. Must use batteries of similar voltage. You will have the proper runtime and avoid the risk of leaking.

Common leaking from batteries happens when:
1) Battery too old and they cannot retain their charge anymore (e.g Alkalines store more than 5 years+), they either leak or when used, they leak immediately.
2) When the voltage has drop to the end-of-discharge point (< 0.8v) and then prolong use will allow the chemistry to collapse, rupture happens, leaking occurs.

Experience:
- You can keep alkalines for a year+ in a flashlight. Mark the dates down. Replace them after a year. If you use it alot, few hours everyday, you may replace them in a week perhaps. Depending on usage.
- L91 Lithium Primaries (Energizer) can last 10++ years. They have higher energy density so they have more runtime than alkalines. Again, recycle them if used alot. Once you TK20 gets dimmed, you'll know!
- e2 lithiums - seems ok but I have never use it.

*These two types of batteries you can leave it in the flashlight and keep in the car under the hot sun for a period. No damage done. Their performance will decrease slightly when heated slightly, but will be back to normal again at room temperature. You won't notice any difference in performace from TK20 regulated electronics.

-Lithium-ION, NiMH rechargeables cannot leave in the car under hot sun. Lifespan slowly reduced are permanent. The chemistries do not recover from high heat. But they are most reliable in flashlight applications (take note there are more about lithium ions, if you wish to know..)

TK20 is a good light, you can still use Alkaline or Lithiums as long you understand them. I recommend to invest in Eneloops LSD 2000 mAH and their specific charger. Or you can also invest in Powerex Imedions LSD 2100 mAH with Maha charger.

Overdischarge risk applies to all. But severity is more for lithiums and li-ion batteries.

Hi Togepy, grats on getting the TK20!

You'll only need to turn the head fully tighten or slightly loosen until it changes mode. If the o-ring is not exposed, then water won't go in. It's the o-ring that stops water from going in.

Cool
You know, your two pink chairs are beginning to seem like trademark liao.. so we all know it's JWYJ's

hey GW2U, was just browsing your lelong site, just checking out what's new Are you by any chance Dannie?

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Added on September 18, 2009, 12:09 amBtw, it's true about Ultrafire batteries, they have a lot of bad cases reported in CPF.

Their Ultrafire chargers seems to be OK

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 18 2009, 12:09 AM

I can't see any of your pic yet... noooo
anyway, im sure its sweet.

Hey bro, interesting notes and thanks for bringing this up I think the only way we can really find what happened was the end result of the explosion, how, what it looked like, reported by the user. I'm also wondering what charger he was using. Charging it backwards would cause the battery to heat up yes but I think the PCB would have kicked in... or maybe not.. so BOOM!

You know what I think.. The PCB is meant to stop the explosion, if the PCB pop, then this is clearly a catastrophic design failure. However, I think it's because of the separator that failed, also related to design I assume, but it was very common before. If you didn't know, corporations like Dell, Sony, Lenovo/IBM, toshiba, many more had mass recalling of their batteries few years back due to this type of behavior. Under circumstances, the cathode and anode pierce thru the separator, the battery can heat up in seconds before the PCB can take it.. BOOM! There's just so much quality issues with ultrafires, although many hasn't face any problems with them, but still. The manufacturer should seriously take action on their product.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 18 2009, 12:25 PM

Oh, looks like they changed the name of the LED to the exact one. Before it was a little general, there's a discussion here already if you wanna check it out. Some ppl think it's ugly, some like it... But I think it's cool too.

ROFL @ all of those wee talks... anyway... Thanks for posting your Wee for us... looks.. damn pretty

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Added on September 19, 2009, 4:10 pmJust something to share



re-charging batteries and checking their voltages, preparing for gf's wed photo shoot

I've used 2 sets of Imedions in my TK40 and they're good batteries! The Powerex 2700mAH are used in the flashes for Nikon alot and their performance are great. The flash 'recharges' faster. Imedions will be used for the first time.

If you guys are considering these batteries for your flashlights, I will recommend it, the Imedions has been great in my TK40.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 19 2009, 04:10 PM

its not our wed she's a photographer for somebody's wed

I haven't use Eneloops yet but it's more recognized than Imedions for flashlights used in CPF. There's is a study in CPF for Imedions, quite detail. Eneloops appear to handle higher power draw above 4A better than Imedions. But it wouldn't matter in most flashlights applications where you will be putting your batteries in series for higher power. Even in single AA applications, you won't reach 4AA at this point of time. I chose Imedions because we've been using Powerex a long time. Based on the link I gave, they're quite competitive. Check it out.

Okay, susuman is right about plugging your red pin in the correct socket. If you measure 2m, 20m and 200m (all miliamps) you should connect the Red Pin into the mAB socket. When you measure anything above 200mA to 10A (20m/10A on DMM) you should connect the Red pin into the 10A socket which is correct. Although you can still measure 200m at 10A, but it's hard to read it...

Taking picture 3 and 4:
- at the 20m/10A setting, light at med, it shows 0.27
It means it's drawing 270mA

- on high, it shows 2.28
It means it's drawing 2.28A

I'm assuming the measurement is correct (similar to my LD10 with boost only circuit), take note that the electronics draw this amount of current for regulation. You can't tell what's the exact current driving to the LED. You will need to open the head and desolder the LED for a connection which it's not encouraged. I can assume that the medium mode is around 120mA @55Lumens and 700mA @195Lumens to the LED for example. As the battery voltage fall the current draw will be higher, giving as much power for constant output until it reaches too low, the light will dim incredibly.

Hope that helps to understand some stuff about the LED driver for the P100A2 and your DMM test. Note that you might get different measurements after the LED is hotter.

Yo bro, dunno if I answered this question above. 2.28A seems to be enough eh?