Wah.. so many people buying the jetbeam..

I guess we all can play it at the next gathering =)

Woo... Just a question, anymody with a multi-coloured LED flashlight (ie. KROMA) here?

haha, hey they are not making a single cent. You guys are buying it as it is, and in fact, it involves their own additional cost in doing online payments, arranging with supplier, arranging delivery and pickup, travelling cost, time and management cost. Let's hope got no custom tax also, they even thought of covering separate shipment costs themselves but let's split those costs ar if got. They'll work something out to avoid it.

haha, hey they are not making a single cent. You guys are buying it as it is, and in fact, it involves their own additional cost in doing online payments, arranging with supplier, arranging delivery and pickup, travelling cost, time and management cost. Let's hope got no custom tax also, they even thought of covering separate shipment costs themselves but let's split those costs ar if got. They'll work something out to avoid it.

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Added on November 23, 2009, 3:54 pmLOL, newspaper, i didn't even see your post update. that cookie browser not doing its job!!!

I just want to play with your M6 with P7 head. Does it arrive already

Maybe you can try the 4sevens multi-colour MC-E light. USD99 isn't it? Sayang lar.. you selling your surefires..

Yeah, I am trying to arrange if can split the shipment to avoid custom tax it, 5-6 lights in a parcel should have no interest by the custom? Any idea? I try my best if the supplier willing to adsorb the split parcel. 

Making money is not our goal, but see many ppl happy with their flashlight as we do, then it worth it, but still need a rest lar, if can take turn, then it will be good.

+ 1 

5-6 lights in a parcel should be good enough to escape the custom as long the declared value is not exceeding RM500....

speaking of splitting the shipment, i just paid extra USD$$ for the separate shipment of Xeno GB cos i have around 17 pcs in total and also not including accessories  the actual total value is around USD1100++, so i have no idea how to under declared it below USD150....so i have no choice but to separate the shipment. All Xeno light except the Cube will be shipped out by tomorrow. The Cube will be on next Monday. 

sidetrack abit...

had a drink wit some frens a couple of days back.

think i might be converting some of them, because they were so amazed at the throw of my humble ET p100a2 lol.

1 of them kept grabbing it, & flashing distant buildings.

+1 flashaholics!

sidetrack abit...

had a drink wit some frens a couple of days back.

think i might be converting some of them, because they were so amazed at the throw of my humble ET p100a2 lol.

1 of them kept grabbing it, & flashing distant buildings.

+1 flashaholics!

just a reminder
and some brain washing
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=249500

Voltage
In their quest to make a light which can utilize any battery that can fit inside it, JetBeam has run slightly afoul of battery chemistry. CR123 cells and rechargeable RCR123 cells run on slightly different voltages, the RCR123s being higher. CR123's themselves vary in voltage with their nominal "running" voltage being just over 3 volts. When the cells are brand-new, however, the voltage is slightly higher and can "overlap" a bit into the low part of the voltage range of a rechargeable cell. The problem this causes is that for a brief period when a new battery is placed in the light, the light believes that it is in fact a discharged rechargeable battery and will come on only in lowest-low mode to protect what it thinks is a rechargeable cell from over-discharge. When I received the light along with a brand-new CR123, I had to leave the light on (in it's low mode, no other modes were available) for about 90 seconds until the battery voltage dropped slightly. I turned it off and back on, and the light then recognized the battery as a new cell and not a discharged rechargeable. For me, "breaking in" a new battery for a minute-and-a-half isn't a big deal, but some may be upset with the inability to simply "throw in a new cell and go".

Pre-flash
The other issue is a bright flash which occasionally appears for a fraction of a second before the light comes on at a low level. This can be distracting, annoying, and/or dangerous - but I believe it is avoidable and primarily caused by the user.

When the button is pressed, there is an almost imperceptible delay of a small fraction of a second before the light comes on. I believe the circuitry is "spooling up" for lack of a better term. If you press the switch slightly (not enough to click it) and release very quickly, the switch can make and then break contact before the light actually comes on. The next time the switch is pressed, the energy from the first press is still in the capacitor, so the emitter gets a brief "double shot" of juice and flashes at a higher level. At least that is my theory on what causes the flash. I have been able to consistently get a flash by quickly pressing and releasing the switch at varying levels, and I have been able to consistently avoid the flash by pressing steadily and with "commitment".

haha, invite them to this money-sucking-thread, oops, i spoke too fast, i mean invite them here and join the fun  

as for the flashlight, I think it is ok as long as you are using rechargeable, any one will use primary 123A? And for 123A, according to Jetbeam, if the voltage is above 3.5 the it is consider li-on, but below 3.5 will consider as primary (so the problem might be for those uses LifePO4, like me???, will confirm when I have it)

If the 123A is above 3.5A, then it is unusual I think.
for the pre-flash,
I think it is not due to the charge, it is the forward clickie and Microcontroller MCU light issue, when you forward click it, you turn on the light, but the MCU have to check what is the battery you are using and what is the mode (selector ring) you are in, but I think jetbeam allow the light to be drive in best efficiency, so its interrupt the for light for low/high mode. (Complex electronic things and cost and effectiveness for lighting), so the pre-flash cannot be avoided = the light was on but the MCU set the correct brightness after it checked and decided...

That is why the standby mode is for, it uses some power for running the MCU constantly, so when you ON the light, it will be Rapid Response , with the price that some power are consumed even the light not in use. Hey, if you are using protected batteries, the battery are IN use even you let it sit in storage (the protection circuit need power to check on the circuit).

So, it is an issue that not really an issue.

Oh, my writing is based on my knowledge on the RRT2, RRT0 will in GB stage, I am working on the ETA of the light also.

...
That is why the standby mode is for, it uses some power for running the MCU constantly, so when you ON the light, it will be Rapid Response , with the price that some power are consumed even the light not in use. Hey, if you are using protected batteries, the battery are IN use even you let it sit in storage (the protection circuit need power to check on the circuit).

So, it is an issue that not really an issue.

Oh, my writing is based on my knowledge on the RRT2, RRT0 will in GB stage, I am working on the ETA of the light also.

Psst, are u saying that the RRT-0 has parisitic drain? Thought the pre-flash 'eliminate' (in shortest term) the use of parisitic drain too, maybe I read your post wrongly   

All the RRT 0 has a standby mode, meaning you click ON the light, but in standby mode, the light is not on, you can Rapidly on the light by using the selector ring, not the clickie anymore, in this standby mode, it consume some power, but the pre-flash is eliminated (for RRT2, I think same apply to RRT0).

Hey, what did u do to ur tank?? It looked like you sprayed it but it's not.

polkiuj: u got me really curious, what did u do to ur light?
if i had the chance i really want to do what that guy did to his Ti light, awesome job.
And then add in my own signature logo hha.

For info, click me!!
For info, click me!!

As for the Ti light, you gotta ask newspaper and check CPF. I know the blue effect is from heat, probably flamed with some kind of torch. Beware not to ignite anything cos I heard Ti is like magnesium. As for the other effect, it's probably hard work or money. =D

oh man... now i wanted to get myself a torch with that material so i could burn it and let it turn tp that color....