I am facing the same problem as well.

but i think it is more toward the "gear-auto-switch". Can you do some experiments on sloppy road, as well as on flat roads?

I am facing the same problem as well.

but i think it is more toward the "gear-auto-switch". Can you do some experiments on sloppy road, as well as on flat roads?

1) Change to RON97

2) Change iridium

3) Change HTTP 

coz4u - below is the step:
1. header
2. fpr (do with us u get free extra service which we adjust ur paddle respond)
3. pipercross drop in
4. any decent voltage stabilizer (zaptor is the cheapest n most reliable for me)
5. try to source out for standard campro intake from gen2 or neo n pair with large snorkel

kokkie - just read ur problem from the quote above...low end campro is very sluggish because the original engine is designed for a high rev purposes...at the lower rpm the respond is very slow n suddenly when entering mid range until high end the rpm shoot faster that is normal behavior for a standard campro...there is a way to eliminate this but i kinda malas nak posting everything again n again so kindly browse back la ha for options haha

Currently, i got a few sounds coming from different parts of the car while going through uneven/rough roads..

But no sounds on flat surface roads as it's smooth and feel solid..

a) The famous 'klunk' sound from front suspension when i go through bumps while turning right. <-- Heard is the metal steering hose hitting the car body.

b) Dashboard rattling sound especially from the middle aircond vents. Turn aircond speed to after half level can hear the sound. <-- Heard it can't be fix, sort of like design flaw.

c) Front passenger door panel rattling sound. <-- I think it's due to the cheapo hard plastics used. Thinking to soundproof all the 4 doors to minimize the vibration sound.

d) Front suspension got a soft 'nyek nyek' sound when my car body flexes while passing 2 different surface height. <-- Seldom happen but it's there.

e) Plastics rattling sound like 'klak klak' when going through uneven roads. Heard it's coming from the rear windscreen area. <-- Suspected is the 3rd brake light but not sure. Sent the car to wash yesterday, right after wash no more sound. But came back this morning. 

Hope u guys can help me solve this sound problems. Waiting for my next service to highlight all these.

Btw, which SC around KL got good service?Is there any service center around Setapak/Jalan Genting Klang?

KOOKIe u might wana save money and go for open pod, i think he also changed to open pod from large snorkel.

Can anyone help me get the in-dash clock for Gen2?
How much is it?

Thanx~ 

ya very true..but is better to change the extractor.

go exhaust shop n ask them to show u which one is which la

immediately after the head where there is aluminium cover that is where the cat con is...the aluminium cover purpose is to reduce heat from the engine or something like that...

when u change 4-2-1, u remove THE WHOLE PART from the head until the nenas(flexi-pipe) and THAT PART CONSIST OF THE CATCON ler

what's with the term camtakpro?

if u know how powerful a campro can be u would be grateful to own one...

sepang drag battle round 3 18th July 2009 a young dragster owns a WajaMME boldly enters Class D - Category 1.6 Open and competing with all 1.6 engines from Japan etc...all other competitors mostly had body rentung but the Waja just minimum lightening due to preparation to enter Campro Class G (Which is canceled due to organizer problems)

Guess what? he got 2nd place with a timing to be proud of...

mind you his engine is the basic Campro non-CPS...if you claimed it has been highly modded, what about other 1.6 engines that enters the class? they wont enter just with minor mods la...furthermore a WAJA body is wayyyyy heavier compared to others...

so still wanna condemn ur campro engine? go sell it la if u don't like it hahah XD

if gen2 owner cum a campro owner doesnt appreciate the engine who else?

too many discouraging words coming...not to mention from proton bashers but owners too?

1.3 convert to 1.6 u need crankshaft, conrod, main bearing n conrod bearing...piston use 1.3 far better than 1.6...u can get a 1.3 campro but inside is a 1.6...

the difference between campro  1.3 and 1.6 lies on the crankshaft, conrod and piston...to be exact it differs at the stroker kit...

there's a calculation done to get the cc based on the conrod length etc which i oso dont remember...

you dont have to change to other block like what other engine requires lets say a mivec 1.6 use mivec 1.8 engine block etc etc...if u change the engine block, the engine number is on the block so u have to declare to puspakom etc etc i oso dunno the procedure...but for campro, engine block for 1.3 and 1.6 is the same...

u might want to change the odometer too since a 1.3 odometer is up until 200km/h if i'm not mistaken as for a 1.6 the odometer is up until 230km/h

that is what i meant by 1.3 outside but inside is a 1.6 engine...even if you send for inspection how can they know unless they are too rajin to open up the engine bring out the stroker kit just to see if the engine is really 1.3...

kokkie - up to u wanna do or not...i believe if u went for inspection, they will only check on the exhaust setup, the catcon thinggy etc...would they be too rajin to jack ur car up, remove the extractor, open the oil sump and all those heavy works just to check ur car is a 1.3? i dont think so haha...

s@ni - the breakdown price should be somewhere to this figure based on 2nd hand price i got in January...some parts may be cheaper n some may be more expensive

1.6 crankshaft 2nd hand - RM600-RM800
1.6 Conrod - RM200-RM300
Main bearing and conrod bearing standard - RM170-RM200
Main bearing and conrod bearing heavy duty ACL - RM300

Labour charge etc i not sure huhu...but if there's anyone interested i could try to get some quotation

lol..shazmn dun poison ppl laXDso bad weiXDhaha...