oo... thanx for the info. But apparently if want to add racing block, as far as i know the most important is to tuning the main jet and pilot jet. Anyone tried before? Standard main jet for Yamaha LC135 is 105 and pilot jet 20.0.

Umm there is a block TDR brand also, i saw it at mudah.com but i dun noe anything about it maybe u can ask other guys.. Wa juz now i go watch movie wif Calvin kena mata block kacau nia but they juz record liao then we run awy liao...

Better disc doesn't mean better grip if your brake piston remains the same.

no need evidence lar, you change to bigger disc and try. no different from the ori disc.

Bro if wanna make ur bike faster dont put any brake or u can put bicycle mini disc brake more lighter he he he he

tq guys...
any recommended shop
around kl
normally i go to segambut tobuy spare parts there...

I am using Keihin PE series. Round slide, but the needle is metal. It is the best carb I've tried so far (RM300 price range). There are better carbs of course, but they easily cost more than Rm500.
Eh? How come we need CDI?
For car ABS, the sensor just need to sense if the wheels are slipped, and then start the anti-lock system (ie tapping the brake fast instead of pressing hard on it). So for bike, we need CDI to support this feature?
Fuhhhh

For people with NOB1 SSS pipe. There are some drawbacks.

The best match for stock 135cc engine is still our stock pipe. Just gotta remove those catalyst, make the extracter 1/4" bigger and smoother, that's it. NOB1 SSS mid and tail is slightly oversized for 135cc engine. No matter how I tune, the high rpm power just doesn't come.

I suspect the pipe doesnt have enough pulling power at the tail (smaller diameter allows higher gas velocity). I asked my sifu and he has verified it. Well, I don't know how to listen to exhaust note to diagnose, but pro can use ear to 'hear' powerband, hahaha.

I am going for 150cc soon. NOB1 SSS will be a good match then.
sidenote: camshaft machine in BeeHock isn't ready yet. My custom cam still pending

i already ask the price
rm180.....
so expensive
next week i will go again to bm to find  shop that whysomany said

saranjeevi, are u using 150cc now?

OO so for i m not going for 150cc so i can juz mod my piepe wif removing the catylyzer right?? HAHAHA ho say liao how much will it cost for doing tat at Bee Hock and how long will it takes??

I am trying out other racing blocks. No plan for FZ block, as it doesnt have enough compression.

We can meet up when the cam machine is ready, haha

wider pipe? how much wider?

I am going for 57mm block and piston. Rm150.
I already got my racing cam design ready, just waiting for his machine. hehehe.

will do cylinder head porting as well.

Charge what u think about Nob1 SSS, on stock engine??? please tell us ur experience ?? is it advisable for stock bike to install Nob1 SSS any extra power? :Peace And Go

It is adding torque from low - mid rpm. top rpm power remains the same. So you will get better acceleration. As saranjeevi said, the bike feel very ringan.
haha, where do u get FX125 custom head and valve??
For lower gasket, I still keep them. Using 3bond basically increases the compression ratio. I already have my cylinder head shaved off 0.6mm, compression already increased

I dont know what brand is BeeHock selling. Just want to try out 150cc, haha. my cam profile, i focus on all band power. I like a FAT power band, hahahah. So the camshaft is a bit aggressive I would say. Put a lot of stress on the valve and valve spring.

some basic parameters:
stock:
IN duration - 225 deg
OUT duration - 275 deg
IN-OUT overlap - 30 deg

my design
IN duration - 245 deg
OUT duration - 275 deg
IN-OUT overlap - 50 deg
increase IN lift by 1mm, increase OUT lift by 0.5mm

It will sacrifice torque below 3000rpm (which we seldom use for do full acceleration). Torque from 3000rpm - 5000rpm should be similar to stock, but 5000rpm and above will increase.

I would say, from mid range to high end, the engine response and power will be much better, while maintaining the mid-low rpm torque.

haha, then you can listen to t135 ppl. I have no experience in it, really cannot comment on 3bond.
ohh. Actually we can modify LC head too. BeeHock can get an exact LC head with much bigger valve. The valve angle is superb, about 30 deg I would say. Cost about RM500.
Someone about 50+kg tried on my bike and able to hit 170kph. I can only do 160kph for a while... damn scary.

answers:
1. I already machined the piston. Got a deeper valve pocket.

2. perhaps I can give more detail cam spec.
stock
IN open -15 deg before TDC
IN close +30 deg after BDC
IN center +100 deg after TDC (not very sure)
OUT open +100 deg after TDC
OUT close +15 deg after TDC
OUT center +70 deg after BDC

my design
IN open -25 deg before TDC
IN close +40 deg after BDC
IN center +110 deg after TDC
OUT open +90 deg after TDC
OUT close +25 deg after TDC
OUT center +80 deg after BDC

basically OUT shift by 10 deg in overall. The limitation is actually at the intake. We don't have enough air/fuel mixture going into the cylinder at mid-high --> high rpm. So my idea is to increase the IN duration, give it 1mm extra lift and then increase the overlapping a lil. Exhaust duration is good enough, js increase 0.5mm lift will do. Well, these are all theoretical estimation, gotta fine tune again using butt dyno, hahaha. And yes, I really hope to get some VTEC feel on LC

AFAIK, Yamaha R15 / FZ150i cam is even more aggressive. It is a 270 IN / 270 OUT cam, with 60 deg overlapping. Mine is only 50 deg overlap,
I have tried a Genuine Yamaha racing cam, which is VERY VERY aggressive. 330 IN / 290 OUT, with 110 deg overlapping. The high end power simply R0X! low end sux like shit la, hahhaha.

hey ppl, need advice here... planing to shave of the lower liner of my block... around 0.5mm... n deepen the the valve pockets... is tat a must i should modify the head as well?? wher can i do tis? pls recommend any shops u al noe... n the cost if u al hav any idea... thx in advance...

Buy Anchor spray semi-transparent type?

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Added on June 4, 2009, 9:20 pm

Lower liner? Which part of the block is that?

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Added on June 4, 2009, 9:25 pm

Not riding LC yet... still a 2-stroker.
So, you using a programmable CDI, or just adjust the crank?

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Added on June 4, 2009, 9:31 pm

Chain tensioner... I think we know the purpose, but not the benefit.
I can only imagine off road bikes need it because of the rear swing arm travel too much.
I think for me, its to spend money scratch my swing arm only...

I've seen red and clear tranparent before... black not sure. 

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Added on June 5, 2009, 12:27 am

there are two different parts, the inner sleeve which looks protruding out, and the outer block, where coolant circulate inside.
Avoid modding the sleeve. It matches the piston length, conrod and crankshaft to make sure the piston stress is applied evenly at every stroke.

I am not sure how the top part looks like - where it connects to the engine head. If it doens't have any interaction with the coolant flow, maybe its a better place to skim.