Thanks to littleghost's guidance, I have my first complete amplifier with a case. Many thanks for his afternoon on Saturday.



Quite a looker isn't it. Thanks to littleghost's Jujubes box.



Work log, schematic and other details: http://mengsuan.blogspot.com/2011/02/project-ubercmoy.html

Actually this can be easily done, even by hand.

lab there punya step drill takda meh?

Not really... with DIY you go and figure it out yourself!
I don't mind doing it for you provided you can come over to PJ.

Hey jeevan is that you?

That's so cool man.
But I have no electronic background  Have you ever considered about selling one?

looks good.

But from the looks of it, layout could be further improved.

If you want me to give you a detailed feedback, you can post up your layout with the silk screen on. I can help you take a good look at it.
A drill bit set is around Rm100-200.
What software are you using?

Jesus, reminds me of the good old days in MMU now that I've graduated.

At first glance:

1) Grounding could use some work. You can either opt to use a ground plane (harder to do on a single layer) OR a solid star ground. In this case, your ground is distributed amongst thin lines. The minute V drop is going to cause some performance issues. Measurable, but probably not audible depending on what Op-amps you used. Also if you intend to use some quality high speed op-amps, you will want to take care of your ground here otherwise you'd run into stability issues.

2) Your traces can be further optimized. Use thicker traces for power lines, power output lines. You can use thin lines for input lines that sees a "high impedance".

3) Don't cross lines from one of the non-inverting input to in between the negative supply pin with another non-inverting input. This will cause noise and performance issues.

4) C3+ and C3- are high speed decoupling caps. They must be very very near the PSU pins to be effective

5) You need to establish where your power comes from and where the current flows. This way of thinking will lead to better layout. At the moment, you're just tapping lines from wherever you can.
Schematic review:

1) I wouldn't use input caps, but that's just me. Primarily because they aren't needed in modern equipments and good sounding ones are expensive. You should use them however if your setup demands it.

2) Put two bigger caps 470uF/1000uF from + to gnd and - to Gnd AFTER the TLE2426. In your present configuration, the TLE2426 sinks all the return current. TLE2426 has a small sinking current capacity and high output impedance. Using it in this fashion will be less than optimum.
Overall pretty good for a head start. Man, my first cmoy was entirely on a perfboard.

Anyway, to prove a point I whipped out a quick 10 minute board showing how you can use a ground plane.

Refer attachment. Standard configuration.

EDIT: There are some errors with the example of the board. The top portion where the battery comes in should have a larger space so the ground plane is contiguously connected on the top most portion. At the present picture, the ground plane is joint solely on the output jack's ground pin. But hey, you get the idea.

Yes, you can omit C2_l and C2_R

Except, C2 is terbalik.

Cap will work just fine.

But if you can afford it, Panasonic FCs are really great for this application.

Don't see any ground loop at a glance,which is nice...

But think I saw different grounds are mixing.....try to reposition certain components or re route the ground.....

"bRestrict" (for bottom only of course)is a useful command for ground routing purpose,serve as a 'chop' when u want to separate grounds.

Suppose u didn't run through DRC also,as I saw R2_R is too close to the solder pad of X1....