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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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niakulah
post Aug 15 2018, 07:20 AM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Aug 15 2018, 01:00 AM)
I bought some TM Lewis shirts.
Size is 14 1/2, 32
I understand that the 32 is sleeve length, anyone here can enlighten me the measurement is from where to where? And it is 32 inches, right?
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Yes 32 inches. IINM it is from the middle of the base of your collar band to the end of the sleeve.
niakulah
post Sep 24 2018, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(chantakzee @ Sep 24 2018, 10:28 AM)
Any tips to protect mother of pearl buttons from cracking during dry wash ? Sent my suit for dry wash and it comes back with most of the button cracked , replacing the buttons is not expensive but still ache my heart knowing my beautiful buttons crack so easily.
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Find a better dry cleaner?
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 07:11 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 06:01 PM)
user posted image

Like, how is that a collar style that works for anyone, much less for a person who ordered something completely different. This collar is completely jacked up, even for someone who wants it!

It is so, so hard to describe how bad this experience was. That's what I got for my 250 bucks...that ridiculous-looking shirt.
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Yikes! That is a disaster! That shirt obviously doesn't fit you. That might be why the collar is not rolling as it should (3 of my JT shirts have that collar).

What was his response when you told him about the problems with the first shirt?
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 09:55 PM)
He told me to bring it in, and I'm quite sure that he would stand behind his work and do all he could to make it right. But I really don't have time for a tailor to fix his fuck-ups, particularly given how long he has between deliveries, and particularly given how bad he messed this one up (weird roll collar when I asked for point). I go out of my way to get to him -- literally, as he's located in a condo building -- and I don't expect to have to hold his hand and help  him know what a point collar is and how much width to allow in the forearm. I expect to be paying for something when I go to a tailor, and the very least of it is that they know what they are doing.
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That's too bad that he got your collar mixed up. Between my 7 shirts with him, I have his point, semi-spread, and button down collars.

I particularly enjoy the collar roll of his button down (which is why I have 3), but you really have to know what you're getting into. Not everyone is familiar with the style, or know that it is never to be worn in unbuttoned.

It's a very American style, as we see on young Bruce Wayne here:
Attached Image

My colleagues did think I was nuts the first time I wore it to the office!
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:22 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:15 PM)
You got a picture of you in the JT shirt?
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I sure do.
Attached Image
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:30 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:24 PM)
Got it buttoned up, with a tie?
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Sorry but no. My workplace doesn't require ties.
Attached Image

Here's a pic of it unbuttoned, next to a 'normal' button down, also unbuttoned.
It is indeed huge, but the 'normal' collar doesn't really roll that nicely.
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:29 PM)
No offense, but from the looks of this pic, I guess my idea of clown might be the going rate in Malaysia.
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None taken. As I said, it's not a style everyone is familiar, or comfortable, with.

Here's an equally huge collar from Singapore:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmLLA3rHLT3/?ut...d=168m4nb2i0n7u

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bb0eWxxA_Iw/?ut...id=sg2y114pusyb

And Amsterdam:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkfx6NuHo78/?ut...d=12hhzttzhdsyo

And Japan:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BpfUtRrFqAx/?ut...id=9o8w5hb5gas5

niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:45 PM)
I guess I giggle at your excitement for the 'roll'. The collar doesn't look elegant. Particularly since you can't wear it with a tie. You'd be far, far better off investing in something more serious.
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I have spread collars for when the occasion calls for it. Variety is the spice of life.
niakulah
post Jan 28 2019, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:55 PM)
Of course. We all do. We're talking about tailoring here.
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Yes we are. In terms of tailoring, JT tailor made me a dress shirt to my exact specifications. That's a fact.

Unfortunately, in your case, you asked for style A and received style B. That is also a fact.

I understand your frustration, and I'm sorry to hear about your experience (why do I sound like JT customer service? Lol). If you feel the need to berate style B and whoever happens to like it (like me) to feel better, go ahead. I can take it. Bro hug. hands.gif
niakulah
post Feb 18 2019, 11:17 AM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM)
Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif
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1. Bringing your own fabric, sometimes called CMT (Cut, Make, Trim), should make things cheaper, but usually not by much. Most tailors would prefer you use their fabric as they make some margin on that as well. If it is bespoke and not just MTM (made to measure), things like collars and fit shouldn't affect the price IMO. Buttons...I once asked a tailor what would it cost to use MOP (mother of pearl) buttons, he said an additional RM200 and showed some not so impressive looking MOPs. That's 1 reason I like Jeremy Tok, MOP buttons are standard and are very nice.

2. You can try Acorn Fabric. I've bought 2 shirting lengths from them. Mostly just to educate myself on what the numbers and weave types mean and feel like. Locally, Jakel has cheap stuff that is comparable to the no-name brand swatches that local tailors have. Although I once made a dress pant with Jeremy Tok with a cheap herringbone polywool blend from Jakel. His first impression was, "Wow, this fabric feels extremely cheap" sweat.gif
niakulah
post Mar 3 2019, 07:21 PM

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QUOTE(sagethesausage @ Mar 3 2019, 02:05 AM)
How much does it usually cost to alter the length of pants?

Recently bought some chinos from Uniqlo on sale for RM20, but they charge RM10 to alter it. Is it a fair price?
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Based on a sample set of 1, the hourly salary of a Uniqlo sales associate is RM9.
https://www.glassdoor.com/Salary/Uniqlo-Mal....7,15_IN170.htm

If it takes nearly an hour to hem a pair of pants, at RM10, I think they under-charged you.
niakulah
post Apr 15 2019, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(iristodler @ Apr 15 2019, 07:11 PM)
Hye guys. I have my sister wedding next week and i need a tailor that can alter my suit shoulder. Any recommendation ?

Is it even possible for a tailor to alter the shoulder in one week ?

Thanks in advance.
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I've always thought that the shoulder is not something you want to alter because it's very major surgery.

You might want to get a different suit. Get the shoulders right first. Sleeves and pant length can adjust easily.
niakulah
post Jan 27 2023, 10:47 AM

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QUOTE(Chiggah @ Jan 27 2023, 09:41 AM)
Need some trousers altered around PJ. Jeremy Tok still good ?
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I don't think Jeremy Tok does alterations.

 

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