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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Terrorsquad
post Aug 10 2012, 12:00 PM

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Here are are some pictures of some cloth that contains summer kid mohair in it. Notice that the Harrisons Cape Kid, which has 60% mohair content in it is more porous then the Firefly which has 18% mohair content in it.

Cape Kid (60% mohair)

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Firefly (18% mohair)

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However, if you are not a fan of mohair, find a cloth with a plain weave like the one below. Not as porous as those with mohair in it but still very much suitable for our weather.

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What most people usually choose is this kind of cloth below. A great cloth but not very suitable for our weather due to the tight weave which as you can see, does not a very breathable cloth.

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My sports jacket which is made from the awesome Minnis Fresco. See how porous the cloth is, allowing maximum air circulation.

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You can purchase the Minnis Fresco here:

My Webpage
Terrorsquad
post Aug 17 2012, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Aug 17 2012, 08:19 PM)
Ermm..... i think u mean "does not trap heat and vents out hot air" For your previous statement, it means "keep heat and trap hot air". hahaha
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Thanks for the classy heads up man smile.gif I was meaning to talk on moisture transfer etc.Will elaborate when I have time.

But actually what I typed is one of the characteristics of mohair though not really in the context that I typed it in.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 17 2012, 11:05 PM
Terrorsquad
post Oct 30 2012, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(clearoldstock @ Oct 13 2012, 12:18 PM)
Hello people. I am planning to get a formal wear for a young man. Aged 21 years old. He ought to attend some formal event soon and needs a formal wear.

I have to admit that my family is less educated about style and fashion. So forgive my shortcoming. All these while, we would just simply buy a long sleeve shirt from Jusco/Isetan/Parkson off the shelves and wear it for formal events like wedding etc etc.

As for the young man, he is the youngest generation and I think he should dress to kill and make an impression for employers and peers. Competitive age it is.

So, senseis/taylors out there, mind if answer some of my doubts?

1. How many garments he needs to shop from top to bottom for a formal event? I only know terms like a suit(top)? a slack(pants)? and a dress shoe.

2. How much is the budget for a young man? I did some reading and many said it depends on the material. But I dont even know what material to use. Do suggest a suitable one for a first timer young man.

3. How long it takes to produce 1 set from top to bottom?

4. Most importantly, which taylor to go for? Ruth or Bespoke or  Binwani or *insert* ? Once again, I am trusting the majority's judgement as the situation is like asking a lawyer(me) to plough the earth(farmer's profession). Totally clueless!

Thanks in advance.
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When you say formal wear, do you mean a black tie event or just a plain suit that can also be used for work?Asking because I note the fact you stated that you want the guy to 'dress to kill and make an impression for employers and peers'.

If you could clarify this point would be great.
Terrorsquad
post Nov 4 2012, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(Iansyze @ Nov 2 2012, 04:46 AM)
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas as to where one may procure suiting fabrics from Holland and Sherry or H.Lesser? Online or around the Klang Valley. Much appreciated.
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A few tailors carry the H.Lesser swatch books, one of them being Ah Loke Tailor on Jalan Yap Ah Shak. An alternative would be to email suitablebritishfabrics@gmail.com for any inquiries on H.Lesser in Malaysia.

Holland & Sherry is carried by most tailors in Malaysia. Remnants are available on British Fabrics on Ebay.
Terrorsquad
post Nov 6 2012, 01:27 AM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 5 2012, 07:06 PM)
2. Depend on type of fabric. Ranging from 900 and up. Metarial: Wool, Silk, Linen, Cotton, Synthetic etc. I would suggest a wool for the first suit (less wrinkle, last longer than linen) If you live in hot climate choose a lighter fabric. Use summer weight fabric that has looser woven yarn.

3. 8-10 weeks, and 80 hours of tailoring.

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I would never ever recommend linen or cotton for a black tie event. They are cloths that are suitable for casual/informal wear.

And I'm very sure that unless you mean one of the Savile Row houses or one of those Neapolitan tailors/houses like Rubinacci, Panico, Fomosa etc, no tailor in the whole of South East Asia spends 80 hours on your suit. Even most Savile Row houses dont spend that much time on making a suit.


This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Nov 6 2012, 01:28 AM
Terrorsquad
post Nov 6 2012, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 6 2012, 07:00 PM)
Expect 4 figure price


Added on November 6, 2012, 7:07 pmGoing to town visiting the tailor. Asking for a nice blue white (small) hounds tooth cotton fabric. set me 2k for  a jacket.  shakehead.gif
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What fabric did you choose?It would be normal if you chose a Zegna or Loro Piana though.
Terrorsquad
post Nov 6 2012, 11:46 PM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 6 2012, 11:40 PM)
I think it's Savile Row on the cover.
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I am guessing that this could possibly be a J.J Minnis/John G Hardy, Holland & Sherry or some made in China cloth. Which shop is this by the way?


Added on November 6, 2012, 11:48 pm
QUOTE(putterbit @ Nov 6 2012, 11:15 PM)
If I remember correctly its 2.6k for a 2 piece mix wool suit. 3k-ish for pure wool...unlimited fitting session...just dropby and talk to them...
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This could almost get you a fully canvassed suit in Lumbs Golden Bale by H.Lesser. But I agree, the service is great though 2.6K for a wool/polyester mix is daylight robbery.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Nov 6 2012, 11:48 PM
Terrorsquad
post Nov 9 2012, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Nov 9 2012, 05:57 PM)
To me, there's no significant difference between pure wool and wool/cashmere blend. At most you get 5 - 10% cashmere which really does not make a whole lot of difference, just a marketing gimmick to get people interested.
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As someone who is in the cloth business, I agree with this statement.


Added on November 9, 2012, 10:49 pm
QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 9 2012, 01:07 AM)
There's a lot you can do.

If you looking for something that keep you warm, pick more delicate wool.
I fail to grasp this concept. Do please explain. Unless you are referring to pure cashmere or vicuna.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Nov 9 2012, 10:51 PM
Terrorsquad
post Nov 12 2012, 12:07 PM

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Is that a one button suit?If yes, I see some issue with it.a full body shot would be great
Terrorsquad
post Nov 12 2012, 11:00 PM

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Sorry man but the pics you took doesnt help at all. Try taking pics like this:

My Webpage

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Nov 12 2012, 11:01 PM
Terrorsquad
post Mar 1 2013, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(munk3y @ Feb 25 2013, 11:40 AM)
hey guys, i read a thread here somewhere saying that its better to buy your own material to make a suit, as they would charge you premium price for a decent quality material. Some of u guys suggested to get them on ebay, but im would like to know how many meters should i get to make a 2 piece suit.

Im fairly big size, 6'0 height, Chest is around 54" and waist is around 36" (at least thats what the pants say), should i just get 4m worth of fabric.?
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If solid colour,3.8 meters would be enough


 

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