well the suit i made from Lord's are meant to be flat and are not roped shoulders..

I believe minimal padding means a slightly sloped shoulder regardless of the roping.

hmmm i guess sometimes the construction of the suit with minimal padding as you mentioned can result in roping shoulders, however its not always the case with minimal padding.. because im getting a new suit done (actually for my brother) and the tailor asked whether my brother wants roping shoulders or not..

I don't think minimal padding has anything to do with roped sleeveheads since as far as I know, it is specially constructed via a tailoring method since the early 19th century when the look was favoured back then. I didn't see any roping on jind's suit since roping is meant to be obvious. By the way, roped shoulders only look good on sloped or pagoda shoulders.

what exactly are pagoda shoulders? hmmm the tailor was saying that the best type of body to pull this off are ones with narrow shoulders..

need tips on how to buy, alter and wear suits/blazer for short guys..im just 165cm in height..when I try to wear blazer, that will make me looks shorter. i wear the smallest size of blazer, which is 44, padini/seed brand only. do i need to alter the length of the blazer?

its quite difficult to find US size 34 around Malaysia as many international brands do not bring in that size.. some brands you can try are as you mentioned padini/seed and topman, however most of the suits ive seen from them are only in one length size, which means they are a Regular.. what you should be looking for my friend is actually a Short, but you've got to look for them.. altering the length is a good idea if you really like every other area of the jacket, however you have to keep in mind that they can only alter to a certain limit because of the they waist pockets, so check out how much of space there is after the waist pockets first.. alternatively, custom made is the other option..

Pagoda shoulders are the ones that you had posted. They form a gracious arc just like the shape of a pagoda rather than straight down the sleevehead. Similar to a sloped shoulder but I guess that would be no to very less padding. More like a sloped straight shoulder.

as i mentioned in the earlier post, Mr Mansor from Granoff likes to do patterns on how the lining flows in the inside of the jacket.. here's an example:



as we can see here, he used a different lining for the middle, then a red for the sides and a stripe one for the sleeves.. then he uses the red lining for the piping as well and you can see the pattern of the lining with the yellow hand stiched thread..

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 12 2009, 10:29 PM

I could understand the use of two different lining materials for the body and sleeves respectively (solid/patterned for body and stripes for sleeves) but the example in the picture featuring two ghastly different linings for the body is somewhat shocking to me. I do not mind pulling that look off if the different lining fabrics for the body complements each other, unlike the one the picture where there's a high contrast of gold and red with very different patterns. It is rather unique but looks patched up or the tailor ran out of lining material. I wonder who chose the combination: whether it is the customer or Mr. Manof himself.

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Added on April 12, 2009, 11:12 pmThere is something very wrong with the combination of colours - gold,red,blue. I'd personally get a burgundy or slightly purplish lining if the shell is blue.

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Apr 12 2009, 11:24 PM

i agree with you that there's just too much different color for this piece, but actually i dont see any problem with the red lining and yellow/gold thread.. i kinda like it actually.. however i feel the red and blue stripe lining don't compliment one another and then there's the more awkward purple thread for the name.. but yeah i actually prefer one type of lining but i find the different body and sleeve lining rather unique, so im thinking of going for a solid light pink for the body, and probably a purple and white broad stripe for the sleeves (for the navy suit im getting done)

Sounds interesting to me. Would love to see a picture of that once you have it done.

If only I'm able to find the map of the world as the jacket lining... hmm

Some research says men are more color blind than women. Anyway about the color clashes, sometimes some tailors use only a specific color of threads to mark their workmanship. This suit you posted could be one of those. Su Misura tailoring!!! Only 2 more brands that i know of offers this kind of service. They even monogrammed it for the owner! In some countries a family crest or any symbol that you want can be stiched in. Anyway there is something instresting i saw just today. The patch of fabric just under the armpit. I'm wondering how much aleration that side is going to give... hmmm...




Actually the lining does not need to be specfic lining material. I have seen a jacket being sold that is lined with Versace medusa large print silk fabric used for making their Italian style shirts.

yeah he says its the traditional way that the sleeve lining are lines instead of solid color.. but its also possible that the customer for this particular suit wants his to be with 3 diff lining.. whats the patch if fabric under the armpit meant for?

He was partially correct. The traditional striped linings for the whole coat (sleeves and body, and not only the sleeves) originates back in the Victorian era where they are made of white cotton cloth with stripes or black, blue or gray or other colours. While breathability was good, the lining tend to turn yellowish after some time, especially in the armpits...

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Apr 13 2009, 03:22 PM

The patch underneath the armpit is called the sweat guards/shields. I guess you know what it's for

oh cool =D haha.. never really seen many suits with that actually :S

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Added on April 13, 2009, 5:06 pmshit thats bad, hmmm but i think even if wld to sweat they'd only reach my shirt, so i think my jacket shld be safe..

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 13 2009, 05:06 PM

Ahhh.... now i remember. Few years ago JUSCO imported a limited range of japanese made summer suits for Malaysia. They had this full page advertisment in papers too. It indicated the patch just like in the picture as armpit sweat protection. BUT!!! The patch is not constructed as part of the lining, but rather a floating piece of fabric mounted at a few sections. But on Jin's picture it is part of the lining. Thats whats got me thinking.



Well any white clothing be it polytester to wool will yellow. And do you know why? Its the humidity. Do notice yellowing does not occur on every part of the fabric. But only some that has been exposed heavily with water. I have seen my white shirt showing some yellowing patches here and there while my bagged up tuxedo shirt is still white. In this case things like Thirsty Hippo is the answer. I used KIWI last time but its not easily found anymore and its pricey. So its down to cheapo hypermarket types.

Oh the old fabric for lining they used last time is called muslin. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslin

The one on my picture is not stuck on to the body, its just they used the same lining as the body..