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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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bloke1
post Jan 12 2010, 11:13 PM

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What's wrong with the color pink? It makes me happy.


Added on January 12, 2010, 11:24 pmA 3piece DB?

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jan 12 2010, 11:24 PM
kotmj
post Jan 12 2010, 11:26 PM

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shakehead.gif


Added on January 12, 2010, 11:41 pmI think so. I have enough cloth for it.


Added on January 12, 2010, 11:42 pmI might go for a conventional vest though, not backless. It's more versatile, I can wear the vest alone.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jan 12 2010, 11:43 PM
moveslowly
post Jan 13 2010, 05:16 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jan 10 2010, 09:51 PM)
I was in a Hugo Boss boutique the other day, and it was a revelation. They have the most exquisite cloths: I handled (for the first time in my life) a suit of pure cashmere (oooh!), Super 150s (aaaah!) and fondled a precious shirt of solidly woven high threadcount cloth with beautifully glimmering real mother of pearl. I was deeply impressed by it all. The Super 150s suit didn't even feel like wool. It was like something God had woven then dropped off at a Hugo Boss factory.

Too bad one of the suits cost RM3995 and the shirt RM1095.

The lapels of one of the suits was machine padded, while the other two I fingered were not padded at all. But despite that, they have a lovely roll due to the horsehair canvas and good ironing.

I was thinking: What a waste of precious materials for RTW. These things should not be RTW, they should at least be MTM. Also, what a waste they are half-canvassed. Such exquisite cloths shouldn't be fused to something else.
*

I remember some friend told me that they got some of their supplies from zegna. Can someone verify that?

Anyway, Dear Experts, I am looking for a shawl lapel tux for my upcoming ball. I have yet decided on the lapel, shawl was merely an intuitive preference; I would also like to consider peaked lapel, but most of the cuttings I've came across look weird or rather awkward. Other questions I have in mind include prices, rent/buy, and the best place to get.

I'm law student, currently my academic results are somewhat first of my class. Do the lapels represent any personalities or styles? If they do, I would like to be in a lower profile wink.gif Most importantly, I am not rich, I came from a middle-class family. So I wondered renting would be a better choice?

Please advise.

Some samples I attached for reference purposes. This is the best peaked lapel cutting I've ever seen. Of course I realised they are Henry Poole and Brioni, so I do not look for such standards.
user posted image
user posted image


Added on January 13, 2010, 5:16 amTS, I noticed you are an avid reader of GQ. Can I know where is the best place to get? What about international subscriptions? Any late deliveries?
I've been buying certain issues from newsstands for 2 yrs, and it's killing me, RM25 is too expensive.

This post has been edited by moveslowly: Jan 13 2010, 05:16 AM
bloke1
post Jan 13 2010, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(moveslowly @ Jan 13 2010, 05:16 AM)
I remember some friend told me that they got some of their supplies from zegna. Can someone verify that?

Anyway, Dear Experts, I am looking for a shawl lapel tux for my upcoming ball. I have yet decided on the lapel, shawl was merely an intuitive preference; I would also like to consider peaked lapel, but most of the cuttings I've came across look weird or rather awkward. Other questions I have in mind include prices, rent/buy, and the best place to get.

I'm law student, currently my academic results are somewhat first of my class. Do the lapels represent any personalities or styles? If they do, I would like to be in a lower profile wink.gif Most importantly, I am not rich, I came from a middle-class family. So I wondered renting would be a better choice?


Please advise.


*
So flawed. How does your academic standing relate to your dressing? Let alone the damn lapel. Smart people are somewhat the worst dressers I've seen. Maybe there are exceptions. Unless you get rid of this thinking, you won't be able to master good dressing skills. A peak lapel tux will never go out of style. Stick to it. Don't even think of perfect fit and Savile Row cuts on a rented tux. The odds are one in a million.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jan 13 2010, 01:23 PM
moveslowly
post Jan 13 2010, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jan 13 2010, 01:12 PM)
So flawed. How does your academic standing relate to your dressing? Let alone the damn lapel. Smart people are somewhat the worst dressers I've seen. Maybe there are exceptions. Unless you get rid of this thinking, you won't be able to master good dressing skills. A peak lapel tux will never go out of style. Stick to it. Don't even think of perfect fit and Savile Row cuts on a rented tux. The odds are one in a million.
*
Thks mate. I appreciate the comment.


Added on January 13, 2010, 6:47 pmmay i know what u think about shawl?

This post has been edited by moveslowly: Jan 13 2010, 06:47 PM
bloke1
post Jan 13 2010, 08:10 PM

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If I were to own a single tux for the rest of my life, it will be a peak lapel for sure. That shawl lapel tux in QoS is cool however since you already find it to be merely intuitive, I'd advice against it. If you have to ask, then it's not for you. Moreover, if you only attend black tie events once a year at most, just forget the shawl. A perfect fitting single breasted, peaked, 1 button tux can serve you well for many years to come.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jan 13 2010, 08:10 PM
kotmj
post Jan 13 2010, 09:06 PM

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Lawyers get particularly fat with age anyway so I'd advice you to rent.
bloke1
post Jan 13 2010, 09:27 PM

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I've just remember what MABT told me two years ago. He mentioned that 4 meters of cloth is required for a 2 piece suit. There must be something wrong with him. I currently have 4 yards. For a 3 piece suit.
kotmj
post Jan 13 2010, 09:32 PM

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You don't need any tailor to tell you how much you need. Look at the WWChan vintage cloth sale. All the cloths were at around 3m -- many were less. That's about what an average built Honkie needs.
bloke1
post Jan 14 2010, 03:20 PM

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I hate you. Now I feel very tempted for a navy double breasted blazer. Navy suit or a DB jacket? Only pick one.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jan 14 2010, 03:28 PM
kotmj
post Jan 14 2010, 11:38 PM

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I would go for a navy DB suit with swappable buttons. That way, you have a suit AND a blazer.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jan 17 2010, 05:25 PM
kotmj
post Jan 17 2010, 05:26 PM

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Am thinking of getting these

user posted image

They're from 1809.
bloke1
post Jan 17 2010, 05:34 PM

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Those are??

I hardly see swappable buttons around. Even harder for MBT to create those buttonholes for this feature. I might drive him up the wall.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jan 17 2010, 05:42 PM
kotmj
post Jan 17 2010, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jan 17 2010, 05:34 PM)
I hardly see swappable buttons around.
*
You shall soon.


Added on January 17, 2010, 5:40 pmThose are blazer buttons, leh. Antique ones. I've been looking at lots of German military buttons from the first and second world war. Might buy a set soon. Watch out.


Added on January 17, 2010, 5:43 pmuser posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jan 17 2010, 05:45 PM
bloke1
post Jan 17 2010, 05:46 PM

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Nice. It would be perfect if the buttons came from a dictator's coat.


kotmj
post Jan 17 2010, 05:52 PM

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That's a NICE DB! Fits him so well. I guess if the tailor got anything wrong it would be off to Auschwitz with him.


user posted image

I'm arranging to buy these. I need 7 large ones and 12 small ones.


Added on January 17, 2010, 5:57 pmWould you prefer these instead? They're of Hitler's navy.

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jan 17 2010, 05:57 PM
bloke1
post Jan 17 2010, 08:05 PM

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I would stick to white MOPs.
kotmj
post Jan 17 2010, 08:13 PM

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Shit, just won the auction for those Hitler navy buttons.
bloke1
post Jan 19 2010, 09:33 PM

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So I was back from MABT. Disappointed. What I've learned today though:-
Golden rule when visiting tailors: Always be dressed in perfectly fitted, tailored garments. I was wearing my grey ku low foo today when I walked into the premise. Bumped into the same arrogant old fellow who served me two years ago but with totally different attitude and service from the last time when I was dressed in a baggy tee shirt and three quarter pants. He greeted me courteously and starts telling me his trade. He charges RM400++ for labor on woolen fabrics. Much cheaper than MBT but done without a single fitting. Which also means I will be seeing MBT again after the new year. Sigh.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jan 19 2010, 09:34 PM
kotmj
post Jan 19 2010, 10:58 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jan 19 2010, 09:33 PM)
So I was back from MABT. Disappointed. What I've learned today though:-
Golden rule when visiting tailors: Always be dressed in perfectly fitted, tailored garments. I was wearing my grey ku low foo today when I walked into the premise. Bumped into the same arrogant old fellow who served me two years ago but with totally different attitude and service from the last time when I was dressed in a baggy tee shirt and three quarter pants. He greeted me courteously and starts telling me his trade. He charges RM400++ for labor on woolen fabrics. Much cheaper than MBT but done without a single fitting. Which also means I will be seeing MBT again after the new year. Sigh.
*
MABT is a loser. Good things are worth waiting for.

BTW, did you see my thread at the cutterandtailors forum? My choice of cloth and buttons were very controversial!

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