Very waisted means lots of waist suppresion. It means that the narrowest part of the suit is very narrow. Skirt flare is what happens below the waist. Once the suit has narrowed at the natural waist, it must puff back out. It must flare out, to give the appearance of wide hips. This gives the suit the hourglass look.

If these two elements are not present, you get the standard Malaysian cut (sack cut), which is boring and unremarkable.

A clean back is one without any creases or drape or excessive fullness. There is always extra fullness near the shoulder blades to make arm movement possible. Nowhere else.

yup ok thanks.. i guess i could also mention your name or show him your picture to say that i wan the same details plus my added changes =)

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Added on October 17, 2009, 3:34 pmbut then again im not planning to get one now.. o well =)

This post has been edited by jind86: Oct 17 2009, 03:34 PM

You know you have an acute need for a sleek shapely suit in dark grey.

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Added on October 17, 2009, 4:30 pmI was at my alterations seamstress this afternoon. She was telling me about a whole bunch of stuff, including her apprenticeship at a tailoring shop in Jln Alor several decades ago, when she told me that I need to spray my suit with Febreeze every so often. It sort of makes sense. Anyone tried?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 17 2009, 04:30 PM

here's my lord's suit with a "proper" pose..





for me the shoulders are pretty bad because there are slight noticeable bumps.. this may be due to the fact that i kept pestering the tailor for very minimal padding.. but still, it shouldn't be that way..

Kotmj,

No harm doing it I guess. I put camphor cubes inside my closet.

Jind,

Gosh, those shoulders. Does this happen to your other jackets as well?

i've got a shoulder bone which kinda sticks out, resulting in this.. however the granoff suit jacket doesnt have this problem with the shoulders.. there's a much cleaner slope..



This post has been edited by jind86: Oct 17 2009, 08:04 PM

Your Lord's suit and to a large extent your Granoff's are exactly the same as Ah Loke's house cut. Heavy shoulder padding plus the appropriate cut at the shoulder seam to achieve a horizontal shoulder, minimal waist suppression and a somewhat generous cut throughout. I really had to push Ah Loke to abandon his outdated idea of how a shoulder line should look like. In the first fitting I was shocked at how damned horizontal the shoulders were. I induced him to reduce the padding and cut the shoulder seam to be slanting. The waist suppression was achieved without too much of a fight. The closer fit throughout was volunteered by him.

You can have naturally slanting shoulders by going to the gym. Do deadlifts. They develop your trapezius muscles.

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Added on October 17, 2009, 11:50 pmOh yeah: Nice shoes. From whom are they?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 17 2009, 11:50 PM

the shoulder padding are really minimal already.. you should have seen how heavy the paddings were on Lord's before i told them about it.. but yeah i think for me it can't go any more lesser than that because of my shoulder bone.. what's going to happen is as you can see in the picture of the suit from Lords.. the one from Granoff i think is a little more padded (or maybe they're just more evened out), therefore the shoulders are better..

the suit from Granoff is really fitting at the body, it can't get any more tapered.. its definitely not generously cut..

i told Lord's that i wanted slant shoulders but apparently he told me that my shoulders by itself aren't so i wont be able to get the look :S

when you mentioned shoulder seam, don't you just mean the shoulders?

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Added on October 18, 2009, 12:42 amoh yeah, the shoes are cole haan..

This post has been edited by jind86: Oct 18 2009, 12:42 AM

Tell me about the shoes.

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Added on October 18, 2009, 12:43 amWhere did you buy them? How much?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 18 2009, 12:43 AM

i got them in KLCC.. i think i got them for around RM400+, after 50% off..

The shoulder seam is where the front panel meets with the back panel on the full length of your shoulder. It's the line that goes from your neck to the head of the sleeve. The angle of that seam can be varied via the cut of the cloth.

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Added on October 18, 2009, 12:49 amCole Haan, KLCC?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 18 2009, 12:49 AM

yeah i'll ask for more slanted shoulders in the future, haih too bad im not too good with all these construction details of a suit.. its hard to get the best specifications when one is less knowledgeable..

yes KLCC..

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Added on October 18, 2009, 12:54 ambut then again, if my actual shoulders aren't slanting and i want to get a jacket with slanting shoulders, wouldn't that mean more padding is needed? to heighten the inner part of the shoulders..

This post has been edited by jind86: Oct 18 2009, 12:54 AM

Never heard of padding near the neck to simulate trapezius muscles! But why not, actually? Maybe you can experiment on that concept in your next suit.

Hey guys been browsing around trade zone 'stuff for the lads' and came across this thread

Link: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1186466&hl=

Are those Dior blazer authentic/original? Dior isn't a cheap brand right?
Please need help!

Much appreciate!

they are not authentic dior.. this type of advertising is misleading..

You need bespoke shoulder pads.

bespoke shoulder pads meaning? aren't all shoulder pads custom adjusted based on your shoulders?

hey guys went to Bespoked "IAN CHANG"

they seems professional...pricing wise...aibt at the high side...labor already cost rm800 is this normal?

Thanks

i remember the last i went labor cost was RM1000 (excluding suiting fabric only).. now its RM800?

but yeah that price is normal..

RM800? Business must be bad. It's a good price.