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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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netmatrix
post Aug 29 2009, 09:27 PM

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Then just now at Chicago Tailor at SS2 where I gave fabrics to be made into shirts, I asked him if he made non-fused suits, he gave this smirk of disgust and said they were outmoded (with a fling of the hands to be back to suggest a certain antiquity), and that nobody uses them nowadays and that VIPs want their suit fronts to be creaseless, like smooth armours (my interpretation) and that he delivers the best quality, and that he has been in business before I was even born (maybe not in those words, but you get the idea), and that lots of ministers buy from him, etc., and that I should trust him: fused suits is the shite; there isn't anything like glue; nobody wants to wear HORSEHAIR.


What you said has its merits. And the tailors words will reflect the majority of tailors in Malaysia and all around the world. Fusing is just too economical and fast. I remember last time many tailoring shops in PJ you can have a suit ready in 24 hours.

There are those who still looks for such workmanship like floating canvasses and such. But they are very rare. People nowdays are driven by marketing hype. You market a suit that has classic workmanship features very well, it would be bought by everyone. People simply lap up what you market them nowdays. Everyone has money. Even when donuts are crap foods, but people buy them because of hype.

Now you want floating canvas and such, you need speciality tailors like Brioni, Canali or even Emmergildo Zegna. That too when their specialist tailors come by, and not their off the rack stuff.

Everyone can complain floating canvas is the best and such. But in reality there is simply not enough market to drive this product. Guys like Matt Dekard from Fedora Lounge does custom suits for select cliente. Even then he admits that he needs to inject modern touches to the classic designs simply because they are more efficient to churn out suits faster. He can't just survive with only limited number of customers who are willing to pay USD 1500 for a bespoke suit!

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Aug 29 2009, 09:28 PM
netmatrix
post Aug 30 2009, 01:28 AM

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Just look back at the old days before tailors were replaced by machines and cutters replaced by CAD robots, all suits were actually properly tailor-made Yes, I may be exaggerating but the figure will become a reality as most people does not care much about suits nowadays anyway


Many good modern tailors use computer to assist in cutting. Other than that it is still generally hand made. I remember reading an article on Emergildo Zegna talking about fabric waste without using computer cutting. And after i watched "Big Ideas for a Small Planet" i saw new recyclable fabrics used for suits. I think that is the future. So no more top of the line merino super 200s anymore. hahaha. In comes 100% recyclable synthetic wool.
netmatrix
post Sep 1 2009, 06:28 PM

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I was about to say Korean look also. Was about to suggest Topman. You might get the sillouette, but not the details. How about Domanchi in Mid Valley? They have a lot of those Korean inspired stuff there.
netmatrix
post Sep 2 2009, 12:07 AM

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Almost all FOS does not stock suits or suit jackets. Stay away from Reject shop. Their current range are those made bulk for some service companies one. And the fabric is horrific low maintenance polyester. Price less than RM150.

Next stop for cheap suits Kamdar. Price range RM199 for a suit. Fabric is better than anything from most el cheapo places at the moment.

Nothing much from hypermarkets. Carrefour is selling their in house brand Harmonie for RM139 for the suit jacket alone. Pants RM49. Fabric is still not better than Kamdar.

Mydin is selling their coats only for RM99-139. Fabric is something like Kamdar.

I know a lot of students that buy those cheapo suit jackets get them from hypermarkets for their graduation.


netmatrix
post Sep 2 2009, 02:22 AM

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saw Kinslager having a promo for their tux (dunno what material).

RM880 just for tux and RM1180 for tux, shirt, etc


If i had the budget, i would make one. Accesories i already have. Just need the tux. hehehe.
netmatrix
post Sep 2 2009, 02:38 PM

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Over here we go see movies for costumes only. hahahaha.
netmatrix
post Sep 4 2009, 10:17 AM

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FusionEX is still living in the past. I have a feeling you might be a big-time FL lurker.




More accurately, I used to be a LL lurker, being the Victorian era enthusiast that I am.


FL people deals in 1930s-1960s' clothes. Nothing from 1700s'-1800s'. Big difference that is.

netmatrix
post Sep 7 2009, 03:15 AM

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Err... Pennywise, i think you approached the place wrongly. I mean you could start by saying you want to tailor a wedding suit for cheap and let them show you the options. I think the problem is, you approach them in a manner of how "money no object" buyers would be.

I'm sure Granoff would not turn down a customer even if it is not above RM1K. Unless they are overconfident of themselves.
netmatrix
post Sep 8 2009, 12:04 AM

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Pennywise, you still approach tailors wrongly. Why not just get to the point, tell them,

"I'm thinking of getting a 3 piece suit for my wedding. My budget is RM1.5-2K. Could you guide me what to get for that price?"

But you had to go straight to Emergildo and start? Of course those sales people would show you a RM500 per meter fabric!!

Now if you wanna go there again to make one. Start making a little excuse.

"Hi, i'm back again. I enquired about the wedding suit i had in mind x days ago. But my budget is already nearly maxed out for the banquet. So i'm now looking for the wedding suit starting from RM1.5K-2K. Any recomendations?"

Dude seriously, you gotta wash off those brands in your head. They aren't any better than any RM100 per metre fabric. And they need much more care.
netmatrix
post Sep 9 2009, 01:01 AM

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Wow, I just found a tailor's blog which displays his obsessiveness in all grotesqueness:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

He's positively crazy.


I can relate to him. He is doing all he can to dissect suits and probably make them.
netmatrix
post Sep 11 2009, 02:08 AM

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He has an enormous collection of suits (probably 100), but at any one time far fewer fit him because he got fatter and fatter. Full canvas, varying fabrics (even very adventourous ones), all made for him by a relative. The workmanship is fabulous. This is in Kuala Terengganu, BTW.


Raid his wardrobe. Say you are doing him a favour by making more space for his new body...... (That sounds wrong) hahaha.
netmatrix
post Sep 15 2009, 12:54 AM

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About half lining. I know of something interesting. If you use half lining, the fabric must be think enough to hide the shirt. Else there would be a shadow of the shirt showing through. I have 2 off the shelf half lined jackets that is made with summer weight wool and all i can say its not advisable to wear too light or too dark a shirt under it.
netmatrix
post Sep 18 2009, 09:08 PM

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Hey those pictures were shown in FL too!

Anyway if you said the suit was for dancing and you don't want the suit to bunch upwards, i wonder how he respons to that?
netmatrix
post Sep 19 2009, 01:40 AM

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Rain seems to have gained weight. That black doesn't hide it well unfortunately. The TI clothes seem to be from Fall Autumm line? The fabrics are heavy.
netmatrix
post Sep 19 2009, 11:42 AM

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How latest is that picture? Maybe black over black doesn't work for him?
netmatrix
post Sep 19 2009, 01:23 PM

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I thought the last superhero movie he worked on was Speed Racer. hahahaha.
netmatrix
post Sep 19 2009, 11:16 PM

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Ohhh ninja assassin. And i thought he was in GI Joe. hahaha. More confusion in my movie database.
netmatrix
post Sep 20 2009, 02:09 AM

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For fusionEx, my nasty el cheapo Tesco RM7 buck polyester jacket.Another was dissected tongue.gif

user posted image

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Sep 20 2009, 02:10 AM
netmatrix
post Oct 12 2009, 12:48 PM

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Interesting that they make horse riding gear. So armholes can be high if they designed it that way. brows.gif
netmatrix
post Oct 19 2009, 03:09 AM

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Hey guys been browsing around trade zone 'stuff for the lads' and came across this thread

Link: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1186466&hl=

Are those Dior blazer authentic/original? Dior isn't a cheap brand right?
Please need help!

Much appreciate! 
No they are not genuine article. But i'm sure, the makers wanted to say "Inspired by DIOR". Rather than marketed it as DIOR.

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