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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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TSjind86
post Mar 25 2009, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Mar 24 2009, 11:41 PM)
jin>  shocking.gif  How long have they been with your tailor?
*
my suit with them since the 1st day i sent it back la, when i said i was gonna get the shoulders trimmed.. lol.. till now, probably a month already..

guys, i just realized that most tailors associate made-to-measure the same as custom made.. im really wondering why.. are tailors here just plain ignorant? i went to SparkMan Shop in 1U today and i asked if he provided MTM services, he said yes and he showed me the cloth, and i told him im not referring to custom made, i told him a little about MTM, and he just became confused.. i also went to Bespoked by Ian Chang (not sure his name) in 1U and met the guy (he supposedly was an apprentice in Savile Row) and i asked him if he does MTM, he replied yes as well, and i told him im referring to MTM literally and not custom made, and he just told me - bespoke, custom made, made-to-measure, same thing.. shakehead.gif it just kinda gets to me somehow, how does a tailor just not know this? or is it just something which only a person who reads websites/magazines/books would know about?
TSjind86
post Mar 25 2009, 07:04 PM

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er well im not exactly sure what they are doing, all i know is i told them the padding was too heavy and my shoulders looked too boxy.. then i tried on the suit jacket couple days back and the padding didnt feel even, they felt "bumpy" on my shoulders (but they looked ok)..

edit: like when i really feel the padding they kinda seem thick on one part and thin on another part, then thick on one side and thin on another area.. is it just me or should it seem kinda "even"?

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 25 2009, 07:08 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 25 2009, 07:33 PM

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nono its not thicker just on the edge, its kinda like certain spots are just thicker and certain are just thinner, i dont think asking him to remove the shoulder pads and then adjusting it later wld be a good idea, they basically are already pissed with me LOL as im a "grumpy" customer.. lol..

edit: they look alright though, its just when you really feel it with your hands then you'd notice the "bumps".. i told one of the tailors about it and he told me "as long as it looks fine thats the important part".. and i replied "yes its true that it looks fine, but feeling the "bumps" it indicates to me that the construction is not proper".. then he said he will refer me to the master tailor.. the suit did not have these "bumps" at first, its just once they altered it to further reduce the padding did these bumps start occurring.. im really not sure if the "bumps" are actually normal and im just being ridiculous (at least thats how they look at it)..

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 25 2009, 07:51 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 25 2009, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Mar 25 2009, 09:01 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The sleeves...  sad.gif
*
lol thats pretty badass haha.. however everything else looks good imo.. i went to Bespoked today and they charge RM1200 for their services to make a suit using your own materials.. i expected less though.. lol and they charge extra for additional features like if you want surgeon's cuffs, that wld be extra RM200 (regardless of whether you're using your own material or their in-house material)..

edit: btw calvinloke, have you gotten any bespoke suits done in Malaysia? and the previous picture you posted, where did you get that from?

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 25 2009, 09:55 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 25 2009, 10:27 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Mar 25 2009, 10:13 PM)
I got that from a friend's dad who is a retired tailor. Price is pretty decent. Less than RM500 if my memory serves me correct.
I always thought things like working buttonholes or pick stitchings are considered standard features on a bespoke.
*
any recommended tailors to get a suit done in Msia? RM500 excluding or including material? well supposedly this guy's standard is so good till he needs to charge extra for every single feature rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 25 2009, 10:27 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 26 2009, 10:50 AM

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netmatrix - its taken from the website of a local tailor shop called Bespoked

http://www.bespoked.com.my/au_oh.html


Added on March 26, 2009, 12:03 pmguys, check this out.. i wrote an email to Bespoked saying:

QUOTE
I came in your shop today and I'm pretty surprised a tailor who went through apprenticeship in Savile Row knows nothing about the difference between Made-to-measure & Custom Made..

http://www.articlealley.com/article_644086_47.html


and this is what he replied:

QUOTE
hi,
its seems you know better then i. wish you can become a good tailor.


thanks

ian

lol.. well i guess he had nothing better to say already..

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 26 2009, 12:04 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 26 2009, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Mar 26 2009, 02:04 PM)
Being a good tailor, one must realise his uninitiated problem instead of throwing sarcasm back at his customers for pointing out a fact. I guess he took too much pride in his short stint in S.Row... This is the kind of tailor who would argue with you all day long over your ideal bespoke suit; suitable fabric, suitable style, suitable length, etc.
*
true indeed, i also wrote a similar email to the tailor from Granoff (Mr Mansor) which i mentioned about and you can totally see the difference in his professionalism..

my email:
QUOTE
Hi Mansor,
This is David, I dropped by the Granoff store earlier at the Garden's and
was glad that I could come in and have a chat with you guys.
On the topic "made-to-measure" we had earlier, this is my understanding of
the difference between MTM and bespoke.

http://www.articlealley.com/article_644086_47.html

Is the idea of the MTM here the same as what you referred earlier to me
about something on the "block"?

-David


his reply:
QUOTE
Good morning Mr.Toh,

How are you? Thank you for keeping in touch.
I totally understand your statement with regard to 'Made-To-Measure'.
Yes, I believe the term is used with regard to semi-ready suitings
that require minute/major changes when a customer requests a speedy
suit. 'Bespoke' is when it is prepared from a scratch, just as how
Granoff does it.
A block is usually a series of formulated shell suits that some
tailors keep for 'Made-To-Measure' requests. The sizes may range from
as small as 46 to a gargantuan 58 or 60. It differs from country to
country. In Malaysia, most blocks suit the local form. I have seen in
Europe where the blocks are made for many Caucasian sizes, in the many
designs and cuttings.

A bespoke (or the Italians call it 'Su Misura') suit, however - means
something that has been measured on the customer's body from the
start. I like doing things this way - which is why I insists Granoff
be that way as well. Every single nuance of the customer's form is
taken into consideration and as a creative director, I factor all this
into a design which I would like to introduce. Men or women - that
will be a directive and culture in Granoff.

Thank you for pointing that out. Keep in touch.

Mansor Tun Abdul Aziz
Creative Director
GRANOFF Malaysia


This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 26 2009, 04:57 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 26 2009, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Mar 26 2009, 04:52 PM)
I know the term "Ma Lau Yi". But i forgotten what a trench is called in HK. I remember some kind os "Lau" inside the word. I know Ma Lau Yi is always used as a term for Police man Uniform. hahaha. Its kind of a degrading talk really.

Jin the pictures are from local right? Kinda sad sight la if it was promo for a tailoring shop. hahaha.
*
yup the pictures are a promo for this local tailor shop called Bespoked.. supposedly the guy had spent some time crafting his skills in Savile Row.. check out the page which was posted earlier..
TSjind86
post Mar 29 2009, 11:41 PM

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i have seen some of the older english gentlemen buttoning their bottom button.. sometimes i guess they just prefer the look..
TSjind86
post Mar 30 2009, 12:06 AM

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i checked out Binwani's at the Curve today, not bad they were having sales up to 20% for their fabric, met up with a tailor there by the name of Rashidi, they charge RM800 for their services, additional RM100 for surgeon's cuff, and this kinda lOL-ed me, the RM800 price is only for 1 fitting, additional fittings will cost RM50 each lol..

anyways im eye-ing this fabric, super 120 pure wool mix with a little cashmere.. which cost RM79/meter after discount, i need 3.5 meters so it wld be about RM280 for the fabric alone.. quite good bargain i think..
TSjind86
post Mar 30 2009, 12:30 AM

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i personally think it requires a really stylish and brave person to pull of the vest-look in malaysia.. one wrong "mistake" and you would no longer look stunning, but look like a youngster instead.. better still, post up a pix and i'll further comment.
TSjind86
post Mar 30 2009, 12:44 AM

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QUOTE(kockroach @ Mar 30 2009, 12:36 AM)
Any recommendation on getting slim dress pants/working pants as I found that most of-the-rack 1 do not have slim cutting. Should I go for tailor? Thanks
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there are actually many brands who make slim dress pants, topman, seed, padini to name afew.. i'd suggest going out and taking a look at these brands first.. however if you do feel that they are not to your requirement, then you could probably get them tailor made =)
TSjind86
post Mar 30 2009, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Mar 30 2009, 01:03 AM)
Tailoring charges are expensive but the deal for the s120 fabric is sweet. Navy or charcoal?
*
well basically i went around and the cheapest tailor i can find is RM650, and he is practically an "unknown" tailor, other places like Bespoked and Lords Tailor and Granoff charge RM1000 for their services, so i think RM800 in general is pretty okay..

QUOTE(mofonyx @ Mar 30 2009, 01:53 AM)
jind86 who's your tailor?

Go to Binwani's Jalan TAR, the one in The Curve doesn't have as amazing deals.
*
i've not confirmed who i want to select to tailor my suit.. the tailor's name in Biswani's Curve is Rashidi.. he's recommended by fellow lyn mate silver2c.. hmmm jalan TAR eh.. do they have more varieties or better tailors?
TSjind86
post Mar 30 2009, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Mar 30 2009, 01:03 AM)
Navy or charcoal?
*
they have quite a number of colors, but im looking for navy, kinda looking for like a pink/yellow pinstripe..

QUOTE(netmatrix @ Mar 30 2009, 12:52 PM)
Going to Jln Tar is an adventure it self. Besides Binwanis, you could check out Gulatis too. And their alternate shop called Euro Moda. But if you are adventurous enough, look inside Campbell complex and Pertama Complex.
*
Gulatis eh, where exactly is that?

QUOTE(kockroach @ Mar 30 2009, 02:58 PM)
Hehe, been wearing topman dress pant since I started working, got 4 - 5 of them, but they are not slim enough, and I don't like those skinny 1.
*
there are several cuttings from topman, their slim cut pants i think are pretty slim already.. if u want any slimmer, it wld probably be considered skinny.. post up a picture wearing your pants..

QUOTE(sliver2c @ Mar 30 2009, 03:44 PM)
Jalan TAR has less choices and over there is more marketed for ladies rather than gents. Rashidi is a good tailor and he is quite creative, He design my wedding suit and it was one of the best suit I ever tailored!! though it cost me a bomb!! they have some nice fabrics from Scabal and Zegna especially the shirt material
*
a picture of the suit will be much appreciated smile.gif

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 30 2009, 07:00 PM
TSjind86
post Mar 30 2009, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(mofonyx @ Mar 30 2009, 06:55 PM)
I always go to the one on Jalan TAR. That was their -first- outlet and their main outlet.

Don't bother with Gulati's. Binwani's has a superior selection of designs. It's worth a visit, though.  You'll come out feeling odd to why Binwani's can get good designs when Gulati's can't. At least that's how I felt.
*
alright, im probably going to go check out Binwani's at Jalan Ampang tomorrow..

anyway guys my suit is back from Lord's and am pretty satisfied with it =)
TSjind86
post Mar 31 2009, 12:19 PM

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here's my "new" suit..

touches that has been done:
shoulders have been taken in by half-an-inch on each side..
shoulder padding has been trimmed..
body further tapered..
bottom of the pants slightly narrowed..
pants length shortened..

its near impossible to get a perfect picture at every angle as pictures are stagnant anyway.. all in all im pretty happy bout it..

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by jind86: Mar 31 2009, 06:58 PM
TSjind86
post Apr 1 2009, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Apr 1 2009, 08:54 PM)
I feel that the shoulders are of the right length now but they still look slightly boxy and unnatural? Especially the conspicuous bump on your left shoulder. That bump wasn't there before the alteration right? Don't know if it's only me but I also feel that the length of your sleeves are longer previously.
*
yeah i also notice the bump on the left shoulder, however i would not have noticed it unless i took this picture.. for the sleeve length, they are the same, it is just this shirt sleeve is slightly longer (this shirt is my brothers), i used my own shirts for the fitting.. when i wear my own shirts, the result is good..

QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 1 2009, 09:04 PM)
Exactly and a whole inch of shirt sleeve cuff is showing eventhough his hands are perfectly straight on the sides. I reckon this is due to the fact that the shoulders have been taken in by half an inch on each side which I know can really affect the overall sleeve length. It puzzles me if the tailor did not take that into account during the alteration process.

The break on the trousers seem much better this time around and overall silhouette is great.

Jin, would it be possible for you to snap the picture at a higher angle so that the shoulders would be more obvious? I am not sure if it is the low angle shot that's creating the bulge on the shoulder.
*
i was also worried at first that the sleeve would be shorter as a result of the shoulders being taken in half an inch, but they said they will fix it accordingly.. i think there is no problem there, just that particular shirt sleeve is slightly longer, will take a picture with my shirts..

yeah i think i wld snap a picture of the shoulders soon as i wld like to see it as well..
TSjind86
post Apr 8 2009, 11:54 PM

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visited Granoff today and met Mr Mansor to show him the sample materials i picked up from the different material shops i visited.. so made appointment with him and the tailor this sat to go through the details of the suit i wish to get made.. they charge RM1000 for their services, comes with horn buttons and hand stitching (most fused custom made suits in malaysia use glue, not them).. and there's no limit to the number of fittings and no additional charges for surgeon's cuff (unlike binwani which charges RM50 for each extra fitting and RM100 for working cuffs).. the process is quite interesting, supposedly Mansor will sit down with each customer and discuss every little detail, like building a small project together, something i find fascinating because i didnt enjoy such experience with Lords.. i managed to see some of the suits Granoff did and how personalized they were, customers can opt for different lining for the body and for the sleeve, the thread color can be mixed around, and they do this kind of pattern on how the lining flows (will take some pictures on this to further elaborate)..

so anyway will run down to get the materials this friday and start the suit project on sat, will add pictures as well =)
TSjind86
post Apr 9 2009, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(lanatir @ Apr 9 2009, 12:07 AM)
congrats. i can imagine your excitement for this. how much did u save from using your own materials?
*
hmmm, can say i'd save about RM300, tailors usually charge about RM1700 for wool suits.. i'd be paying around RM1400..
TSjind86
post Apr 10 2009, 05:02 PM

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guys, this is the material i purchased today, its wool with a little cashmere.. am really liking it as i believe from far it looks like a solid navy but then when you come closer, you'd notice the design..

*the left area wld be a better indication of its actual color as the flash is not directly on it..

user posted image

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 10 2009, 05:04 PM

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