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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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TSjind86
post Apr 10 2009, 07:50 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 10 2009, 07:27 PM)
Interesting fabric. What is the price and length, if you don't mind?
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this one is RM120 a meter, its 60" wide, and i purchased 3.5 meters..

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 12 2009, 12:41 AM
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 12:41 AM

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do you guys know if there's a particular name for the dent/bump at the end of the shoulders of certain suit jackets?

user posted image user posted image

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 12 2009, 12:41 AM
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 02:33 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Apr 12 2009, 11:27 AM)
Pagoda shoulders come with roped sleeveheads(usually). That's how shoulders should look with minimal padding. Ironic how Jind86's shoulders looks kinda boxy.
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well the suit i made from Lord's are meant to be flat and are not roped shoulders..
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 03:10 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Apr 12 2009, 02:59 PM)
I believe minimal padding means a slightly sloped shoulder regardless of the roping.
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hmmm i guess sometimes the construction of the suit with minimal padding as you mentioned can result in roping shoulders, however its not always the case with minimal padding.. because im getting a new suit done (actually for my brother) and the tailor asked whether my brother wants roping shoulders or not..
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 08:04 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 12 2009, 06:17 PM)
I don't think minimal padding has anything to do with roped sleeveheads since as far as I know, it is specially constructed via a tailoring method since the early 19th century when the look was favoured back then. I didn't see any roping on jind's suit since roping is meant to be obvious. By the way, roped shoulders only look good on sloped or pagoda shoulders.
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what exactly are pagoda shoulders? hmmm the tailor was saying that the best type of body to pull this off are ones with narrow shoulders..
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 09:16 PM

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QUOTE(ApeKG @ Apr 12 2009, 08:53 PM)
need tips on how to buy, alter and wear suits/blazer for short guys..im just 165cm in height..when I try to wear blazer, that will make me looks shorter. i wear the smallest size of blazer, which is 44, padini/seed brand only. do i need to alter the length of the blazer?
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its quite difficult to find US size 34 around Malaysia as many international brands do not bring in that size.. some brands you can try are as you mentioned padini/seed and topman, however most of the suits ive seen from them are only in one length size, which means they are a Regular.. what you should be looking for my friend is actually a Short, but you've got to look for them.. altering the length is a good idea if you really like every other area of the jacket, however you have to keep in mind that they can only alter to a certain limit because of the they waist pockets, so check out how much of space there is after the waist pockets first.. alternatively, custom made is the other option..
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 10:27 PM

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as i mentioned in the earlier post, Mr Mansor from Granoff likes to do patterns on how the lining flows in the inside of the jacket.. here's an example:

user posted image

as we can see here, he used a different lining for the middle, then a red for the sides and a stripe one for the sleeves.. then he uses the red lining for the piping as well and you can see the pattern of the lining with the yellow hand stiched thread..

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 12 2009, 10:29 PM
TSjind86
post Apr 12 2009, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 12 2009, 11:09 PM)
I could understand the use of two different lining materials for the body and sleeves respectively (solid/patterned for body and stripes for sleeves) but the example in the picture featuring two ghastly different linings for the body is somewhat shocking to me. I do not mind pulling that look off if the different lining fabrics for the body complements each other, unlike the one the picture where there's a high contrast of gold and red with very different patterns. It is rather unique but, pardon me for being blunt, looks patched up.


Added on April 12, 2009, 11:12 pmThere is something very wrong with the combination of colours - gold,red,blue. I'd personally get a burgundy or slightly purplish lining if the shell is blue.
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i agree with you that there's just too much different color for this piece, but actually i dont see any problem with the red lining and yellow/gold thread.. i kinda like it actually.. however i feel the red and blue stripe lining don't compliment one another and then there's the more awkward purple thread for the name.. but yeah i actually prefer one type of lining but i find the different body and sleeve lining rather unique, so im thinking of going for a solid light pink for the body, and probably a purple and white broad stripe for the sleeves (for the navy suit im getting done) smile.gif
TSjind86
post Apr 13 2009, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Apr 13 2009, 09:03 AM)
Some research says men are more color blind than women. Anyway about the color clashes, sometimes some tailors use only a specific color of threads to mark their workmanship. This suit you posted could be one of those. Su Misura tailoring!!! Only 2 more brands that i know of offers this kind of service. They even monogrammed it for the owner!  In some countries a family crest or any symbol that you want can be stiched in. Anyway there is something instresting i saw just today. The patch of fabric just under the armpit. I'm wondering how much aleration that side is going to give... hmmm...
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yeah he says its the traditional way that the sleeve lining are lines instead of solid color.. but its also possible that the customer for this particular suit wants his to be with 3 diff lining.. whats the patch if fabric under the armpit meant for?
TSjind86
post Apr 13 2009, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Apr 13 2009, 02:51 PM)
The patch underneath the armpit is called the sweat guards/shields. I guess you know what it's for tongue.gif
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oh cool =D haha.. never really seen many suits with that actually :S


Added on April 13, 2009, 5:06 pm
QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 13 2009, 02:13 PM)
While breathability was good, the lining tend to turn yellowish after some time, especially in the armpits...
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shit thats bad, hmmm but i think even if wld to sweat they'd only reach my shirt, so i think my jacket shld be safe..

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 13 2009, 05:06 PM
TSjind86
post Apr 13 2009, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Apr 13 2009, 05:22 PM)
Ahhh.... now i remember. Few years ago JUSCO imported a limited range of japanese made summer suits for Malaysia. They had this full page advertisment in papers too. It indicated the patch just like in the picture as armpit sweat protection. BUT!!! The patch is not constructed as part of the lining, but rather a floating piece of fabric mounted at a few sections. But on Jin's picture it is part of the lining. Thats whats got me thinking.
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The one on my picture is not stuck on to the body, its just they used the same lining as the body..
TSjind86
post Apr 14 2009, 12:08 AM

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but yeah in terms of clothing storage especially in humid countries like Malaysia, its definitely a wise choice to invest in moisture absorption products such as the thirsty hippo..
TSjind86
post Apr 17 2009, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(PIMPIN @ Apr 17 2009, 04:19 PM)
Interesting thread. I've only just discovered this section of the forums. I love wearing suits - used to wear them everyday but its been awhile since I've had to and I wonder if they still fit!

I guess for me, no two suits are ever the same cause I usually have 2-3 fittings and if my weight fluctuates, lose or put on some weight then my suit will be made accordingly.

Probably have about 10 suits or so and I usually prefer to make two pairs of pants for each suit. Nothing fancy nor particularly expensive due to long standing relationship with my tailor who does all my work shirts, baju Raya etc. Actually have 3 piece suits as well but never get the chance to wear it!
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where's your tailor? post up some pictures of suits/shirts from your tailor for us to see =)
TSjind86
post Apr 18 2009, 10:06 PM

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QUOTE(PIMPIN @ Apr 17 2009, 10:13 PM)
Aiyoo nothing expensive.. Just needed to dress for work so cheap volume not bespoke
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er why aiyoo? i just asked where's your tailor, nothing to do with expensive or not sweat.gif

QUOTE(Calvin Seak @ Apr 18 2009, 02:02 AM)
[img][/img]

Sorry for the late reply heres the picture so what do you think of the suit

Suit - Custom Made - Super 150s wool -
French Cuff shirt - Custom Made - Cotton -
Tie - Raoul - She got it for me for my birthday so i just wore it biggrin.gif
Watch - Tag Heuer
Cufflinks - Cuffz - Golden yet stunning
Oxford Shoes - Hugo Boss

For her
Short Dress - BCBG Max Azria - I got it for her just for the dinner biggrin.gif
Heels - I don't know
Necklace - Tiffany's

Occasion?
2nd Month Anniversary at Shook@Starhill
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i cant see anything shocking.gif

QUOTE(Hongraphics @ Apr 18 2009, 09:06 PM)
Hi all,
I'm thinking to buy a blazer for casual & work. I found this on http://www.zara.com/#/en_GB/top_zara/man/
I feel the 2nd one look nice, black color blazer rm529...
How you guys think??  biggrin.gif
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for work, suit jacket is the most appropriate, im not too sure if its the correct jacket which im looking at from zara's website (i went under malaysia), but that one's too casual with those big army-like pockets.. what is great actually is the khaki suit to the left, its great for business in the summer (which means its always suitable in malaysia) and the suit is great for casual as well as its not too serious..
TSjind86
post Apr 18 2009, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(Cristiano-Ronaldo-7 @ Apr 18 2009, 10:15 PM)
i have one wardrobe blzer and trousers. and one g2k blazer which was retailing at 50% off, last size.

but the wardrobe one due to custom fitting is amazing. real good feel to it, i got it classic , just normal plain black, but i forgot what material.
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wardrobe is custom-suit store right? nice, post a picture of you in it if you have the time =)
TSjind86
post Apr 19 2009, 05:37 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Apr 19 2009, 04:39 PM)
tongue.gif I believe Jind86 would have something to say about his experience at Bespoked.
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i dont know, there's just something non-genuine about this Ian Chang guy being a truly trained savile row tailor (although yes i do believe he did go there for a short time as an apprentice, but how much did he learn?).. it was funny because in this month's (or was it last month's) Malaysian Tatler magazine, there was his picture and a small quote below which said something like "my favorite brands are Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Paul Smith".. i mean are you serious? a supposedly true savile row tailor (at least thats how he brands himself) mentioning about brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci? even talking about regular English guys, you're hardly going to see them going, "today i wore a jacket from LV, and this dress pant from Gucci"..

QUOTE(PIMPIN @ Apr 19 2009, 04:46 PM)
I believe its unfortunate that in the service industry, the level of service, attention and experience varies with each customer. Some people swear by a certain place while others hate it. Like someone on these forums always says "One man's meat is another man's poison"


Added on April 19, 2009, 4:50 pmAnyways, I'll post some of my suits but pardon the poor quality and picture setting. I've recently moved into a new place and my walk-in closet is not properly arranged yet. So I took out some of the suits and used an E71 (yes, I don't like pictures hence this is the best I can do).

Most are dark color but I have one or two lighter shades. They're all the same fabric so you get the general idea.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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are all these 5 suits by Ian Chang? mind posting a picture of you in them so we can get a better look? btw i noticed you used flat wooden hangers for some of your suits, you're going to end up distorting the shoulder of your suit jacket.. what happen to the original hangers?
TSjind86
post Apr 19 2009, 08:32 PM

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QUOTE(PIMPIN @ Apr 19 2009, 08:09 PM)
The hangers are not flat, perhaps its the photography that makes it look that way. I'm well aware of the need to hang them properly.

Yes, those suits are all made by Ian. I didn't take out all of them, that's about half of the suits.

As for brands, surely a tailor is allowed to have favorite brands? I mean, there's more to life than suits - wallets, shoes, bags, etc could be from LV, etc. Not to defend Ian as I know he's not perfect but I think to pick on that is slightly petty not to mention irrelevant to his work isn't it?
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the reason i stated that he mentioned brands like LV and Gucci has nothing to do with the fact that he did not mention his own brand.. the point here is that those who enjoy English attires would stay away from such brands.. i'd expect someone who's a true English tailor to mention brands like Crockett & Jones, Brioni, Turnbull & Asser; instead of highly commercial brands like LV and Gucci.. well just my thought wink.gif
TSjind86
post Apr 19 2009, 09:28 PM

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[PIMPIN] - i actually have nothing against his workmanship of producing a suit, well i basically have not really seen it, except for the picture below, which is why i'd really like to see you in the suit..

user posted image

its just i had a bad first experience with the encounter with him, he appeared to be a really arrogant person (same goes for Robert loh, the master tailor from Lord's), there's this vibe he sends out which is like "excuse me, i am a highly qualified tailor which worked at savile row before"..
TSjind86
post Apr 19 2009, 10:32 PM

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im trying to find links on information regarding horn buttons but cant seem to find any, still cant seem to really tell them apart from plastic ones and would like to know more about them..
TSjind86
post Apr 19 2009, 11:20 PM

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stumbled upon this picture in SF, and was really attracted to the way he pulled everything together..

user posted image

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