Why do you think I own one for donkey years and made personal comments of it in TT thread?.

P.S. the seller better give me some commission for hyping it up if its quickly sold.

Use a passive pre (volume pot only) if you all want to test out the actual potential. An active preamp will only color up the sound to some extent and not reveal its true potential (after whatever mods you all may have done).
I'll let you all know if I can make it. Thank you for your kind invitation.

How do you integrate the amoi into the T-amp equation?.. you young flers?...must have amoi factor. Jazzy..am I right or not?.

I've always thought opamps are nearly always lower noise, less prone to HF radio interferences and more accurate (which doesn't always translate to better sound) than discreet which anyone is going to have a tough time in the layout and implementation which will contribute to a variety of problems. Preamps is the next most difficult stage to build up to achieve a high standard. Of course the worst is a phono stage. The smaller the signal amplitude, the harder to deal with.
Having said that, there's so many opamps to play with and its entirely up to you for your own flavor. It's tough to tune discreet components.

I have a feeling a carefully chosen simple tube preamp can make the T-amp more musical as it'll give it some color and with more warmth..or a tube buffer in front of it?...the X-10D?....hahahahh...drool again....heheheh!.

Its quite possible to clone the X-10D. Nothing very complicated and you need a 12V tranny with voltage double rectifier for the B+. Remember that Ebay HK DIY site that sells the X-10D PCB kit? You get the same exact layout. The original X-10D does NOT contain super quality pcb or whatever. The DIY kit could be even better quality.
All in all, it may work out to be cheaper than the original X-10D and you can even add a ALPS volume pot after the buffer stage.

Hmmm..come to think of it, I have a Soundstage 6922 tube pre-amp. Highly modded by yours truly and using personally selected tubes. The stock version from Tong Lee is NO-WHERE by comparison. Trouble is, I didn't bother to fit an Alps 50k pot inside...lazy dah!.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Oct 12 2008, 02:09 AM

Can I suggest, for a couple of bucks more..build a special version of passive volume pot. Fix up 2 volume pots, one 50k, the other is 100k.

Errr buddy.. I don't think its an appropriate statement.

A Google earth placemark or coordinate would be very helpful, unless people here still don't know about Google Earth program.
Or..just announce there's a set of Sonus Faber doorgift for free, YOU BET every dollar, everyone knows how to get there in time without any help.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Oct 15 2008, 07:45 PM

Caught you saying:
Errr.. quoting me and believing my view again? An active pre-amp may also enhance the sound and dynamics for more enjoyment lah. Depending on my mood, I periodically switch among 3 kinds of pre-amplifier to obtain a variety of color and tone. A passive pre can sometimes result in the music sounding on the lean side...thats primarily because the input sensitivity of a pure power amplifier is much lower than an integrated amplifier. More often, a power amp is designed to match with an active pre-amplifier.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Oct 15 2008, 11:30 PM

Hey guys, I won't be able to attend. Ada lain hal during this weekend. Even Amcorp Mall picnic too I've to skip again.
Enjoy yourselves ya!..

This post has been edited by bsl555: Oct 16 2008, 11:44 PM

Sorry again guys. Absolutely have to be elsewhere that morning onwards till late.
Door gift...nevermind.. I pass.

Thanks but no thanks in me doing up a T-amp in future, primarily because I've no need for anymore amplifiers.
I've already had enough fun with DIY amps in the past. I could always pop by to March05's place to listen if there's any opportunity. About next week, I'm also foreseeing not able to come to your party. Wrong timing and a lingering issue at this point of time I've no choice but address it on weekend. Yes, Amcorp Mall stint may again be dismissed. My apologies.

Based on some personal planning & forecast, there's a high possibility I won't even be able to make it next week either.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Oct 17 2008, 07:43 PM

M7?.. Didn't impress me at all when I last played with one that was sold as a kit from Octave. It had many faults like high noise floor, some hum, picked up RF noise, too high output. Quite a flawed performer. Hope yours ain't like that.

Maximum V rating is 16VDC
Operating max is 13.2V, hopefully not exceeding 14VDC.

Just like my subwoofer LPF and HPF opamps, I upped from 12VDC to 15VDC... a lot smoother bass lines.

Those with knowledge of theory and fundamentals of electronics should make good use referring to chip datasheet info which are easily downloaded. Maufacturers are nearly always with conservative values for reliability, reason and its longivity. Modders will push it to its limits and likely fry it in the process. Just know what you're doing.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Oct 22 2008, 02:16 PM

You can use this:
http://ledcalc.com/

What was your voltage input?..hope it wasn't AC voltage

input 12V, 3V drop (since u say yours is 3V), 20mA current

You can easily test any LED by forward bias with a multimeter, it must light up. Simpler still, test with a 1.5V dry cell battery.