Right on. I wouldn't let my clay be that dirty...people do the above for show only

Clay would be the choice if you want to get rid of the 'roughness' feel. Don't need to be a pro to clay. After a few strokes like junbecks described, you'd get the hang of it and can finish a whole car in less than 1/2 hr. Polishing and getting rids of swirls, watermarks and scratches is another story though.....

Do you guys reused ur clay ?
Heard that after used, can rendam into water and the clay be soft again
I never reused my clay,, always trow away after used it,,,,
But i used smaller portion (2 cubit) compare to the picture above,,

I'd normally cut mine in half (approx 50gm). Store damp in an air-tight plastic container (eg. tupperware). Re-use if it's not too dirty. But I really don't use it that often since I do maintain (wash) my cars reguarly so not much contaminants. I only use it if I plan to do some polishing, and that would be around once a year......

-2 cubit is a good idea. Most of us still practice it.
-i guess its not about soft or not, but more like, dirty or not,

After 1 panel, turn the clay bar.
After the whole car is done, then only do the lower parts which can be the dirtiest.
-then throw the small portion (size about 50 gram)

^^^ hrrm....good one....never thought of doing it that way. Wonder why I don't see many of the guys doing this....

I do reuse my clay but provided it is not contaminated and clean. If you accidentally drop it on a dirty surface/ground, throw it away. For a "used" up clay, you can save it for rims (if you don't have expensive or nice clear coated rims...) or use it for cleaning up the under body of your car. I used to use a "cubit" portion for claying the surface and throw it away once contaminated, throw it away. But realized by using a too small a portion you would be using your fingers and exerting too much pressure on the surface that you are claying. On some paint surface (such as soft black) you would see some marring. Pressure is force per unit area... Besides it is also tiring. I find it better to use just enough clay to fit your palm. It is less exhaustive claying with your palm compared to using your fingers (except for tight areas where you need to use your fingers) and more efficient. Try to keep a different clay bar for top portion and lower portion of your car. The lower portion tends to get more dirty.

See the following articles:
Baggie Test - Mike Phillips
Tips and Tricks for using detailing clay - Mike Phillips

Also clay comes in several grades: light to aggressive. Some clay manufacturers market it as for dark (light) or light (aggressive) colored paint. Start with the least aggressive first.

If you want to go the extra mile after washing your car clean, before claying...
- You can try decontaminating the paint surface with a paint safe degreaser/APC before claying. Remove some tough nut grease/oil, black streaks, etc.
- You can try using product such as IronX or IronX soap which is paint safe to remove any ferrous particles from the surface before claying. Usually if you have lots of brake dust such as BMW.
- You can try using a paint safe tar remover (orange oil/d-limonene based) to dissolve and remove tar from the paint surface before claying. This is much safer and would save you loads of time. Don't use clay to remove tar spots as what some people/detailers recommend. Tar spots can be embedded with sand/grime and difficult to remove with clay. You might end up marring the surface besides not being efficient.
- Then start claying - you will notice that claying at this point is so much easier and not much contaminant is left on the surface by looking at what is picked up by your clay. Remember to inspect your clay often for any particles or large contaminants. If possible pick those large particles out before folding you clay over.
- Some would even do a further step of decontamination after claying for removing beneath surface contaminants.

Good to see this thread being revived with lots of good tips and suggestions.

Mike Phillips' videos are always good to watch and easy to understand.

This post has been edited by dariofoo: Nov 2 2012, 12:22 PM

umm, where can we get Zaino Z6 Ultra Gloss Enhancer in malaysia?

Wah...thanks for all the advice. Will start with claying first. Heading to carrefour this weekend

you'll need to get from Sg dude.

Second that.....Zaino Asia Pacific....

You're a Zaino fan....me too....hehehe....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 3 2012, 08:20 PM

Is there any website I can use to purchase detailing stuff and have them delivered to Sabah? I recently bought some Permanon stuff from waxson.com but my Paypal still state that they haven't claim the money. >.< So don't think they are active..

Thanks!

haha thanks for the info..

wanna try out this Zaino Z6.. KrisMas you bought them from http://www.zainoap.com?

Pergghh raining all day
This is the second time in a day for to wash my car
Wash morning before go out,, then go out rain very heavy,, now back home and wash agian,,

Any particular brand you're looking for? For Meguiars, google for Borneo Detailer. His name is Tim and he's in KK. He mainly deals in Meg's products but also got a little bit of other stuffs.

Yup. I have ZAIO, ZCS, Z2Pro, Z5Pro, Z6, Z7, Z8, Z16, ZPC & ZFX. What do you want to use Z6 for? If for after wash topping up, Z8 would be better suited. Z6 is more like a QD.

how long the shipping normally takes?

actually im new here.. got my car repainted

i live in condo, car park outdoor.. now raining season... 2-3 days, car very dirty... i dont mind wash my car but want to learn to do some protection to protect the car

saw many good review about Z6, im thinking to use the Z6 after washing remove watermarks and protection.. something like that..

thinking whether to buy meguiars gold class shampoo or not.. friend recommended it..

the Z8 is double the price for Z6.. haha

just saw this deal http://www.groupon.my/deals/klang-valley-s...307&a=715827992

3 layer RM48 / 5 layer RM128

how do you think ?

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Added on November 5, 2012, 1:24 amhaha, same .. i just washed my car today.. wanted to dry it and starts pouring..

This post has been edited by yewyew1314: Nov 5 2012, 01:24 AM

what is layer??

Don't know much about the shipping from Zainoap and how much it cost cuz I normally tumpang friends going to SG to buy direct from them....but, normally for other stuffs that I bought on-line there, less than 1 week.

What do I think about the groupons? Honestly...I'm being blunt here...IT'S MOST PROBABLY A SCAM and don't fall for it until you do some serious research and see for yourself their quality of work and results. I've never heard of any good things that comes out from these offers yet.....

Z6 is like a normal QD only and it doesn't give much protection. If you're still keen on Zaino, you should consider Z8. Z8 lays down a decent layer of protection on the paint, that's why it's a bit more expensive than the Z8. If you're worried about the price, Z8 can also be diluted and I've tried at 1:1 dilution and it still works fine.

If you don't mind other brands, there are other options though. Duragloss Aqua Wax, Optimum Car Wax, Autoglym Aquawax or Meg's Ultimate Quick Wax. All these are 'spray-on' and wipe off sealants that can provide good protection with decent durability. And, all are available locally.

For watermarks, if normal washing couldn't remove them, you'd most probably need a cleaner/polish. Stuffs like Z6 or other QD won't do much of a difference.

Meg's Gold Class shampoo is a decent quality shampoo, but I like Meg's NXT shampoo better cuz it has just a little bit more cleaning power. You might want to consider Duragloss 901 Car Wash Concentrate. I think it's better than Meg's....but that's just me though.

I've read somewhere that watermarks can be removed by using diluted vinegar. Is it true?

For the milder waterspots....yes. Diluted vinegar would chemically remove the mineral deposits - waterspots. If it's already 'eaten' through or etched the paint/glass, diluted vinegar *could* remove the mineral deposits but won't remove the etchings.