what kind or brand of bulb u are using?
cheap ones burn quickly.
also check the connectors, maybe it has pecah2 which shorts the current and cuts/burns the bulb filament.
also, just like Lean said, check ur groundings.

aircond sometimes ok sometime not tu macam mana?
sometimes cold sometimes not? check the blower or compressor
now not cold already? check for leaks and top up the aircond gas

change battery then what kind of fault happen?

u can get it from Proton Edar but it will be expensive la.
or u just have to wait and see if someone selling..
maybe someone is getting a digital aircond set from Eterna/Galant, will sell the ori Perdana console..

low end torque for NA usually not quite there..
Perdana max torque of 179Nm can only be achieved around 4K rpm, under that, slow la kan..
after u did a top overhaul, did u do tuning to the ECU?
if not, then maybe the AF ratio is not optimum which causes the car not getting the optimum power..

i have frens who have workshops in PJ and Shah Alam.
both are mostly doing Perdanas and they are also own Perdanas.
u can search for the performance items urself and ask the mechanic to install them for u.
stock factory car sure got high level of body roll as the suspension is tuned mostly for ride, not handling.
changing to adjustable suspension with harder springrate, changing the anti-roll bar to thicker and harder rate and changing to lower profile tyres will solve the body roll problem..

This post has been edited by NeuroOne: May 7 2014, 11:27 AM

welcome to the club..

gbox jerking?
when does it occur? upshift or downshift? always?

stick with regular maintenance.
no need to play towards performance as it will never be enough. haha..

yeah, anyone wanna share their pics here?..

see first the mountings.
if the mountings are ok, then maybe its a problem from inside the gbox.

u service the gbox using ori Proton ATF SP3?
did u change the ATF filter as well? afraid the filter kotor. so new ATF no use also if filter kotor or blocked.
ur Perdana still hv the ATF cooler? (some kedai takeout other ppl's cooler).

or maybe the clutch already worn out and need a new clutch pack.

or maybe the solenoids in the valvebody tersumbat.

well, if u have serviced the gbox like u mentioned, basically hte ATF and filter are new and clean.
then the jerking may be associated with the internals of the gbox.
like i said b4, maybe the clutch or solenoid.
but then, these are my opinion based on what i have experienced b4.
u may want to check with gbox specialist.

FYI, if ur gbox rosak and no gears are moving (gbox 'empty'), then it may be caused by broken torque converter.

for front and rear, i use full rubber mounting.
for left and right, i use normal/ori mounting.

This post has been edited by NeuroOne: Aug 6 2014, 04:32 PM

Perdana tank is 64L.
if 600km for mixed town and hiway, it very good.
previously with my V6 NA auto, i get 7.5-8km/L town, 10.5-11km/L hiway. depending on my right foot.
now with RVR turbo auto, its similar. just a bit lower.

V6 gbox only 4 gears, and the ratio is tall (long ratio).
so the pick up is so-so only. but cruising on hiway is very good.
i think according to the spec 0-100kmh is around 12-13sec.
top speed i got 220kmh.

to improve abit of mileage and power, i sugest installing piggyback ECU like e-manage, AFC neo, etc
to improve further, get manual transmission. power ada, improved FC pon ada.

No no.

Piggyback ECU is just like the name. It piggybacks on the standard ECU. Connect the piggyback to the standard and the piggyback is programmed to 'cheat' the standard ECU

Standalone ECU is used to replace the standard ECU.

some things to check:
tyre balancing
tyre bulging (bengkak)
rim bengkok
driveshaft bengkok
absorber kong

i think theres a seller/workshop in TTDI Jaya. try searching it in mudah.my

no problem bro.
we are all still learning.
belajar sampai mati. hehe..
so, is your car standed kilang or already modded?
how much did u bought it?

aiyo manade femes. normal je.
maybe bcoz i always replied here kot..
anyway, for a standard 2004 V6 for RM25K, i think its on the high side.
from surveys, i should be around RM20K plus minus RM1-2K.
some ppl are even selling it as low as RM16k.
if its turbo, then maybe can fetch a bit higher price.
donno la, the low price maybe bcoz desperate to sell or car not in good condition.
u bought it from used car or direct owner?
condition ok? ade bunyi2 pelik?

if u are satisfied, then no problem la kan.
maybe JB price is like that..

conversion to manual gbox may cost u about RM4K to RM5K.
code 222 fwd gbox is a bit cheaper than code 312 fwd gbox.
code 222 is tall ratio - better cruising (lower rpm)
code 312 is short ratio - faster acceleration

This post has been edited by NeuroOne: Sep 21 2014, 12:13 PM

nice to hear u got a good condition Perdana.
and i see u rate it quite high. nice.. hehe..
i just miss the stock standed Perdana with V6 purrr and auto-cruise..

the headlight go "kusam" is normal la.
try to polish it first, maybe the kusam is only on the outside.
if not, just buy a new one la.
mine also kusam and bracket patah, but no water vapor.

actually, the best is to fill the radiator with coolant all the way (pre-mixed coolant - coolant yg dah dicairkan).
or fill coolant pekat then top up with water.
u can get Mitsu pre-mixed coolant in a 4L bottle IINM..
here: http://www.mudah.my/Mitsubishi+Motors+Supe...nt-29056097.htm
or here: http://www.mudah.my/Mitsubishi+Motors+Supe...4L-29637251.htm
(different jenis pre-mixed coolant)

i think to fill it with coolant for other machinery is not adviseable la.
is it compatible with car radiator system?

This post has been edited by NeuroOne: Sep 22 2014, 03:20 PM

if the water inside ur radiator and reserve tank is still cantik with no or minimal rust, then by all means, use the pre-mixed coolant la.

for the water vapor, check the ventilation hole behind the headlamp as well.
i dont really know how it effects, but usually aftermarket headlamps will have water vapor compared to original Koito.

as for coolant, i dont really know how much the radiator needs.
sometimes, ppl use bigger radiator like double layer alloy, or galant/eterna TT radiator which is longer.
just buy 2 bottles la and u will have some spare coolant. hehe..

hello bro..
i'll pm u the addresses.
they dont have disc brake skimming tool but they usually call the uncle who comes to the workshop and do it there.

yup. insurance cost depends on the car value and ur NCD. roadtax is rm380 but if u do it at post office, they may charge rm2 fee.

another thing, based on jpj rules, vehicle that has been left idle without insurance or roadtax for some time, may need to go for inspection. but only one year without roadtax/insurance is ok i think..

my car gets about 8km/L city, 11km/L hiway, with either ron95 or ron97.
so, ur Perdana Exec with heavier body gets that kind of FC, sounds about right.
in fact, any 2.0cc auto transmission car in that generation gets about the same FC..

This post has been edited by NeuroOne: Dec 29 2014, 03:48 PM

that's the ABS light.
it should light up when the ABS is working, meaning when u apply emergency braking, the ABS kick-in and the symbol light up to tell u that the ABS is working. u can feel the brake pedal vibrate. the symbol lights up for a while only.

if the symbol stays on, then there's a problem on the ABS system. if u reset it, it stays off for a while, then it will light up again, becoz the problem is not rectified.
sometimes, its just a minor problem such as - dirty sensor. clean the sensors.
or maybe bigger problem like the sensor wire cracked/cut or ABS module rosak.
the ABS module in the engine bay should be protected from water, usually ppl like to wash the engine bay and water sips into the wire connector and causing it to rosak..

u can ask them to plug in diagnostic module/computer and check whats wrong with the ABS system, dont just reset/erase the code..

This post has been edited by NeuroOne: Jan 5 2015, 12:17 PM

i think ur question hv been answered few times in here, u can scroll back for more answers.

anyway, do checks basically like any other used car.
ask for test drive. then drive it kaw kaw.
v6 engine is sturdy but the auto gb is kinda weak.
when driving, do hard accelerating and feel if there's any jerking or late gear change.
focus on gear changes between 2nd-3rd (jerking) and 3rd-4th (delay).
then, do hard braking and feel if there's any jerking (when the gbox downshifting).

check under the engine for any leaking. check the mountings, bushings and other 'getah' part.
listen for any weird engine noise, weird noise during cornering, braking, etc.
check power window and other electronics etc.