While ocing my CPU, I ran into some problems, namely the RAM doesn't seem to be running at the right speed. A picture says a thousand words, and I got 5k...lolz.

This is my RAM:


And this is my BIOS settings for my RAM, I'm kinda new to this BIOS, might be more settings hidden somewhere that I don't know about:


Now, when I run a all AUTO settings, this is the speed my RAM is running at:


When I change it to the highest possible setting, which apparently is DDR2-1066, this is the speed my RAM is running at:


IIRC, my RAM supposed to be running much higher than that, right? Is there a problem here? Oh, I don't know if it'll help, but here a pic of my BIOS:


Thx sifus!!

This post has been edited by Maverick_Neutron: Dec 25 2007, 01:31 PM

DDR:
Dual Data Rate.

DDR2-1066 divides into 2: 533MHz.
Nothing is wrong with your system.

When you put on auto, offcourse it'll run at PC2-6400 DDR2-800.
Buy any PC2-8500 DDR2 1066, if you don't change the straps, all of them will run at DDR2-800.

You have to change the straps by yourself.
So again, nothing is wrong with your system, nothing is wrong with your ram.

Oh..lol, icic..thx dude. That solved my problems..heh..um...I have another question, off-topic but what the hell..

I'm running my proc on passive cooling, no fan is attached to my 120 eXtreme, do u think it'll be ok? and what is considered high temp on my proc.? Meaning the maximum temp. limit the proc. should run at...thx

What is your idle and load temperature? Q6600 to be safe at below 70C at full load.

I'm "Prime-ing" right now, at 333-FSB, 3Ghz. 15 mins in, temp already hovering at around 65C...

Somehow, I can't seem to boot at 400-FSB, 3.6Ghz. I didn't change the multiplier or voltage, but this proc should be able to do that speed without dropping the multiplier, right? Maybe I need to increase the voltage abit....

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Added on December 25, 2007, 2:28 pmPrime95 ran about 1 Hr plus without crashing, temp is around 68-69, occasionally crossing 70, maxes out at 71. Is that safe?

This post has been edited by Maverick_Neutron: Dec 25 2007, 02:28 PM

Should you go until 3.6Ghz, then u must increase the voltage. The speed is to high for the stock vcore.

Your temperature at full load at 65C should be OK at 3Ghz. When I was using stock cooler my processor also max until 71C, it should be safe but almost reach the limit. My advice is try to let it stay below 60C on full load. Then it'll be aite.

Kool, I'm still doing some testing and tweaking, once I get everything settled, I'll move on to pumping up the vcore. Thx dudes!

really respect u run ur q6600 oced and on passive

I don't think it's gonna work out if I keep ocing..lol...already quite toasty at 333-FSB. Anyway, I can't reach 400-FSB... I've tried bumping up the vcore to 1.5v, the motherboard LED already yellow, managed to boot into Vista, but crashed no long after that. I pull it back to 333, didn't want to push the vcore until I consulted the sifus here. Any ideas? Thx.

EDIT: I tried the above with a fan attached to the HSF, my passive cooled PC was not meant to be..lol...itchy fingers have to OC...

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Added on December 26, 2007, 12:17 amI've figured out what was causing the crashes, seems that the NB is overheating and shuts-off at 70C... I increased the shut-off temp to 80 and booted into Vista successfully, but Vista was abit messed up, all my bookmarks from Firefox were gone, and HWmonitor showed that I was running an ABIT uGuru system!!! I restored to my backup and pulled the system back to 333-FSB, now it seems to be running well, going to Prime-test it overnight to make sure it's stable at this speed.

Any ideas on how to break 400-FSB, sifus?

This post has been edited by Maverick_Neutron: Dec 26 2007, 12:17 AM

get a NB cooler

My MB had got this built-in heatpipe cooling system on the NB. I'll post a pic later, or better ye, go check it out at the Asus website, I can't pull a link right now coz the website is down for some reason...

Any other ideas on how to lower NB temp? My side window already has a fan blowing on the MB, but it's focused on the GC.

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Added on December 26, 2007, 3:22 pmThe problems I faced earlier, like missing bookmarks and HWMonitor problems, is there a way to pin-point the origin? I mean, is it bc of too high OC for proc. or NB temp?

This post has been edited by Maverick_Neutron: Dec 26 2007, 03:22 PM

Main problem that's causing the northbridge go as hot as you've said earlier is because the heatpipe heatsink that is covering your motherboard uses thermal pad which is rather useless compared to thermal paste.
The stock thermal pad has only 50% the power of passing the heat to the heatsink [compared to thermal paste], thus, your northbridge go as hot as you said just now.

You can change the heatsinks but it's gonna cost you a lot.
One thing you could do now is first take out the heatpipe heatsink, remove the thermal pad then use thermal paste at all the place that is covered by the heatpiped heatsink. This will help a lot in removing the heat.

I've done this a lot of time on my various motherboard that uses the heatpipe heatsink that covered the motherboard and it's proven to be working a lot better compared to when it's on the stock thermal pad.

i assume u are using the maximus formula board....is suggested that u reseat ur nb and sb together with all the mosfet on top near the cpu part..try some setting at ur bios like cpu pll, fsb vtt, vcore, vdim, vnb...make sure load calibration enable...and this board is a good board for overvolt so make sure dun set everything too high..pls get a fan for ur TRUE for god sake.

wat bios version are u using? anyway ignore the damn cpu temp in maximus...use coretemp to monitor all ur 4 core temp which is more accurate...

This post has been edited by intothefantasy: Dec 26 2007, 07:05 PM

I'm using the latest version of the BIOS, 0903 if I'm not mistaken. Taking out the whole heatpipe is gonna be a big job, just looking at it scares me, no doubt this will void the warranty, right? Hrmm...I need to read up on how to remove it safely... Seems to be a big job, have to remove CPU HSF first, then figure out how to remove the system, so called "Pin-Fin Thermal Module"...

No.
It won't void the warranty.
I've done this thing many many times before and RMA'ed some of them, no problem in claiming warranty on them.

You just have to take out the heatpiped heatsink carefully without leaving traces that you've taken out the heatsink.
Do it properly.

And please don't use an al-cheapo thermal paste like those white ceramic thermal paste.
For the best result, use either Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling MX-2 or Tuniq TX2.

i will suggest ac MX-2....

im using it now....

very gud but something bad happen to my pc....

What happned? Was it related to ac mx-2. It's non-conductive, rite?

lots of ppl says u need to heat it up1st before taking the heatpipe out..heat it with a hairdryer...but dun too long and too hot..btw try 0907 bios...

For those heatpipe heatsink that is attach on the motherboard, you don't need to do that since it's on thermal pad.

Yup, I'm using MX-2, it was slightly costly tho..but I guess it was a worthwhile investment. I missed the latest BIOS, lol, going to update and do somemore testing. BTW, what is the safe temp for NB? Same as CPU?