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Home Theatre AV Room / Home Theatre Build Report, Build Completed, pics on Pg 6.

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TSjasonlky
post Feb 4 2008, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(grandspy @ Feb 2 2008, 09:44 PM)
Thanks Jason,

I don't quite like curtains.. would probably go for your approach.
Will definitely drop you a PM soon  nod.gif
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Sure thing, look forward to it. I have been showing off the AV Room and my DIY projects every weekend since Begining of the year. Hope it will slow down a bit.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 4 2008, 03:43 PM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Feb 4 2008, 01:38 PM)
good point about bringing up the viewing cone, I notice the discussion trend especially in AVS is that the wider is better, obviously that means, moving to 1080p at sitting nearer distances to the screen... i.e. using more elite equipment...  biggrin.gif
Wide is better in most cases, coz fills your field of view and thus gives you a very immersive experience. However you want to avoid sitting too near when watching movies like "The Blair Witch Project" and "Cloverfield"... rclxub.gif. Halfway thru the show I could not take it, vomited and then slept immediately!!

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 11 2008, 11:59 AM

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I am not so sure about organising such a day... I am happy to accomodate any visitors if I am free.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 11 2008, 07:24 PM

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QUOTE(apisgogo @ Feb 11 2008, 02:22 PM)
jason,

your wall panel. As u mentioned its a plywood then covered with fabric. Is it DIY? No acoustical treatments/certified right?

where u get it? price?

how does it perform? better insulation/absorptions?

me looking for a some kind of studio foam for my HT room. But quite hard to find lah.
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My wall panels are made of ply wood backing with 2 inch foam covered with fabric.

I am sure that you have your reasons for needing studio foam. I have been in a recording studio before and it is not a condusive environment for listening to music, recording yes, but not listening. Music tend to sound dead and unappealing.

Before any renovation, my room was accoustically ok. Even with the new glass cabinets, I find no untoward sound reflections or vibrations. The panels are made by the contractor that built the entire room for me, no acoustical treatments.

As I mentioned my room was accoustically fine before the renovation, with the wall panels, some of the high frequency reflection/prominence has been reduced. Mids and lows remain unchanged.

I have no way to compare my wall panels to commercially available insulation/absorption materials. So I cannot tell how it performs. If you are having trouble finding studio foam, try Ebay.

Jason biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jasonlky: Feb 11 2008, 07:28 PM
TSjasonlky
post Feb 12 2008, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(DigitalKL @ Feb 12 2008, 11:02 AM)
ya like that Bourne Ultimatum also like that. This movie is good enuff la, no need to use shaky hand technique, making ppl dizzy only. and shoot behind ppls head, got one big blur bob on the screen..... doh.gif

jasonlky, excellent job on your AV room

btw you got so many glass display shelves at the back, no problem with interfering with the sound?

btw any idea where i can get those nice plastic conduit to hide my ugly wires running on the floor? i know can get those electrician type.....squarish ones but looking for those like "speed bumps" (round edges) for running along the floor as seen in dept shops.
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Bourne Ultimatum is still OK coz the shaky camera action is only for selected scenes and not like cloverfield where it is used for the entire movie.

Btw thanks for the compliments, surprisingly the hinged glass doors which are directly behind the sitting area do not pose any problems, no untoward reflections or vibrations. However I have some sliding glass doors to my left, and these vibrate a bit from the LFE. When listening to music no problems at all, unless it is some bass heavy track.

I would venture that ACE HW should have the conduit/trunking that you are referring to you. Else shoparound at our local hardware shops.

Jason biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jasonlky: Feb 12 2008, 05:07 PM
TSjasonlky
post Feb 12 2008, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(DigitalKL @ Feb 12 2008, 05:18 PM)
I just moved into this new place and slowly setting up my AV room. now 7788 already. today just put up some movie posters. somehow my sound a bit cacat liao....dunno why. havent figure it out yet.

have a look -

user posted image
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Yah nice posters, I was interested in putting up posters too.... but then I thought of another solution, I'd put movie related merchandise in my display cabinets instead. Now all my toys and collectibles are just stuffed into the cabinets... they look more like storage cabinets than display cabinets.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 13 2008, 08:59 AM

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QUOTE(DigitalKL @ Feb 12 2008, 05:18 PM)
I just moved into this new place and slowly setting up my AV room. now 7788 already. today just put up some movie posters. somehow my sound a bit cacat liao....dunno why. havent figure it out yet.
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Not sure what u mean by "sound a bit cacat". Try pulling your seapkers out of the corners. Should not be equi distant to either walls. E.g. 3 ft from the rear and 1 ft from the side or something like that. What spearker are those anyways?

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 13 2008, 12:46 PM

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QUOTE(DigitalKL @ Feb 13 2008, 10:52 AM)
first off, I want to apologize to jasonlky if I'm intruding onto his thread. sorry sorry... sweat.gif

thanks

now my sound is like boxy a bit. sorry i dunno how to describe it better. my room small i guess and the ceiling is low so maybe gives an enclosed sound.

my speakers is not equal as you can see in the pic. so what do i need?  cry.gif

my setup is like this -

pj = panny ae200
rx = yamaha RX-V795
speakers = Energy Take 5
sub = paradigm PDR12
dvd player = foc philips from UOB kekeke..... sweat.gif
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Don't worry about intruding in this thread.

I have not heard the Energy Take 5, but I have never liked satelite speakers. I would say the boxy sound is caused by in adequate crossover between the satelites and the subwoofer. This inadequate crossover causes a dip in the mid to low bass frequencies and thus the boxy sound. Try moving up the crossover frequency and see what happens. Also move your speakers out from the wall a bit.

Good idea to move the AV receiver coz dun think its a goo thing to leave it on the sub doh.gif

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 01:44 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 14 2008, 10:53 AM)
i want it, but cant afford it, tats why i envy sad.gif
kena pijak once again
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No pijak allowed in my thread.... biggrin.gif

Since u know what you want oledi, I guess its a matter of working towards it. You'll have to start with a financial plan and a budget...

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 08:59 AM)
ah jason gor gor... how much it cost u to make the projector screen ar? blush.gif
and u mind telling avthin abt the screen? (the pictorial with the stretching i aredi went thru )
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Dun call me like datlah, paiseh. Here are the components:

1. 2 frames, 1 for the blackout cloth the will border the screen and the other for the main viewing screen. Cost of each frame about RM200-300, labor plus materials. The frame for the blackout border is optional but looks nicer when mounted on a frame.

2. A length of blackout cloth, I chose a black velvety material that is non shiny. About RM2.50per meter. If u buy specialist blackout material then it will cost a bit more for no additional benefits.

3. The projector screen material, can be obtained from local AV shop (expensive), local computer shop (cheap but quality may not be good). For me I bought it thru ebay, RM180 shipped to my door step, quality as good as the branded ones... seriously!

4. Time and effort to install the blackout cloth and screen to the frames. I used glue to wrap the blackout cloth around its frame. I used a staple gun to install the screen to its frame.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 10:46 AM)
wooo, kamxia

ok, lets see.... so its 2 different parts, one is just the frame, and the other one is the centre, so both parts are individually hang to the wall?

shud the thickness of both parts be the same, or the frame make it thicker? and out of curiousity, why dun u paint the frame black instead of warrping it?
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the blackout frame is nailed/glued to the wooden backing (no wall). The the screen is just "slotted" into the blackout frame. So I can pull it out easily in the future.

I don't think the thinkness of either really matters. You could paint it you want, just find non reflective matt black paint. If you are mounting your screen on the wall, then by all means paint the wall instead. Save money on the frame.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 03:31 PM)
just slotted in? wont tat thing fall of or anything? !!!!!!!!!

ask ur advice, 68" worth getting projector ornot?
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Its a "perfect" fit so it won't fall off.

68" issue I already reply in the HT discussion thread, go and read therelah, dun want to repeat again here. smile.gif

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 04:53 PM)
wah seh, perfect slot...
so if i built the frame, the inner part of the ply wood for the screen, do excatly the same size as the empty part will do lar?
even after stapling the screen, i guess the thickness will still be minimal rite?
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I asked my contractor to have to allow for the thickness of the blackout cloth and the screen material, the inner frame is smaller by 0.5mm.

If you used a solid piece of plywood, it would be very heavy. It would be better to build a frame... just like a picture frame and then use a brace in the middle to strengthen the long sides..

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 07:21 PM)
yeah... tats wat i need to know... ok, 0.5mm allowance

will follow ur example of frame, but wat u mean by using a brace in the middle to strenghten?
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I mean 0.5cm or 5mm. Best to get all the materials and then make a proper estimation for the allowance then.

A Brace is the center piece of wood that supports the long sides of the frame. If u are building a 68" frame, u may not need the brace, just the frame is enuf. I hope the picture below helps....

Attached Image

Jason biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jasonlky: Feb 18 2008, 08:31 PM
TSjasonlky
post Feb 19 2008, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 10:36 PM)
yeah... i saw this pic many times liao... i dreamt of it even... blush.gif

so basiclally the middle set of ply wood has only the puter frame for support, with no nails or anything, only the outer frame is nailed to the wall

just now did a comparison for size... 42 to 68..... massive....

btw, must the projector point @ the centre of the projection screen? or no need?
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To tell u the truth, initially I intended to secure the middle set with a clip, but because it fit so nicely to the outer frame, I did not bother. I think u need to prepare to use additional support incase the fit is not good. If the fitt is secure, then no need any additional support.

The projector does not need to point at the center of the screen. How much off center can you place the projector? That depends on the availability of the vertical and horizontal lens shift function on the projector as some can do more and others less. Zoom is another important factor when it comes to placement, it determines how near or far back you can place the projector. Read about projector flexibility here. After that read the whole section about buying guide.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 19 2008, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 19 2008, 10:30 AM)
tenkiu bery muchie
yesterday was brwosing thru some setups
i notice they have this 16:9 screen which can transform to a 2.35:1 size,
but an anamorphic lense is needed rite? i heard its very epensip?


Added on February 19, 2008, 10:41 amread abt flexibility liao...
but the hd65 and aw 10 also not really tat flexible sad.gif
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Anamorphic conversion lense can cost as much as a new projector rclxub.gif. My Epson TW700 cannot does not have the vertical stretch so I have no use for this, not that I have spare cash to spend on this....

This feature is actually used by the lumen challenged but oh so expensive projectors like the Runco's,JVC's RS2/HD1 and Sony's VW series. After paying so much, the owner's would like to maximise the use of the projector. And watching a 2:35 movie with letter box is just not on, plus the light output is not maximised due to the letter boxing. The vertical stretch plus the anamorphic conversion lense then increases the light output to the projectors maximum.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 25 2008, 09:35 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 19 2008, 02:53 PM)
wat u mean by tat? hd65 lor... i use the calculator...
spore no bring in, they say the 65 lousy kaler... i was heart broken....
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I am surprised that Singapore dun have....

Kennot say tat the HD65 is lousylah, its a budget entry from Optoma and is priced accordingly. Its like saying buy Bata shoes but not comfortable like Adidas/<insert favorite shoe brand>....

But one thing is for sure, the placement of the HD65 is not flexible, so u mut take not of that.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 25 2008, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 25 2008, 10:12 AM)
i was wondering, if i just do a frame, without the middle insert, and stretch the screen to the back of the frame , wat are the disadvantages?
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I am not sure what u mean... so u just do 1 frame and install both the blackout cloth plus screen on 1 frame. I don't see any problmes with this. As long as your wood is hard and don't flex when you stretch the screen over it ... should be fine.

QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 25 2008, 10:12 AM)
btw, wats ur screen size diagonally and the frame panel  width?
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My screen size is a 16:9 110" diagonal, 96" x 54"

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 25 2008, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 25 2008, 12:35 PM)
yea, tats wat i meant, so no problems eh? thanks biggrin.gif

sorry, i meant just the frame width, the one u wrap with black velvet one
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The blackout cloth is 6 inches wide, but you need to make sure that it is "in scale" with your screen. I.e. you should not use a 6inch border with a 68inch screen, so pls scale it accordingly if not it may look funny.

Jason biggrin.gif
TSjasonlky
post Feb 25 2008, 09:35 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 25 2008, 06:47 PM)
yea.... tats wat im wondering, most prolly i will go up to 76" , any advice on the size i shud allocate the border? 3.5" ?
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This is what I did, I bought the projector first... then I experimented on the screen size and seating position before I built my theatre. May be u should do the same since u still not sure about these things. I mean u can prepare the materials just make sure u know what u want before you build it. A screen too big or too small = potong stim

Jason biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jasonlky: Feb 26 2008, 10:12 AM

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