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Home Theatre AV Room / Home Theatre Build Report, Build Completed, pics on Pg 6.

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TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 08:59 AM)
ah jason gor gor... how much it cost u to make the projector screen ar? blush.gif
and u mind telling avthin abt the screen? (the pictorial with the stretching i aredi went thru )
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Dun call me like datlah, paiseh. Here are the components:

1. 2 frames, 1 for the blackout cloth the will border the screen and the other for the main viewing screen. Cost of each frame about RM200-300, labor plus materials. The frame for the blackout border is optional but looks nicer when mounted on a frame.

2. A length of blackout cloth, I chose a black velvety material that is non shiny. About RM2.50per meter. If u buy specialist blackout material then it will cost a bit more for no additional benefits.

3. The projector screen material, can be obtained from local AV shop (expensive), local computer shop (cheap but quality may not be good). For me I bought it thru ebay, RM180 shipped to my door step, quality as good as the branded ones... seriously!

4. Time and effort to install the blackout cloth and screen to the frames. I used glue to wrap the blackout cloth around its frame. I used a staple gun to install the screen to its frame.

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 18 2008, 10:46 AM

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wooo, kamxia

ok, lets see.... so its 2 different parts, one is just the frame, and the other one is the centre, so both parts are individually hang to the wall?

shud the thickness of both parts be the same, or the frame make it thicker? and out of curiousity, why dun u paint the frame black instead of warrping it?
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 10:46 AM)
wooo, kamxia

ok, lets see.... so its 2 different parts, one is just the frame, and the other one is the centre, so both parts are individually hang to the wall?

shud the thickness of both parts be the same, or the frame make it thicker? and out of curiousity, why dun u paint the frame black instead of warrping it?
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the blackout frame is nailed/glued to the wooden backing (no wall). The the screen is just "slotted" into the blackout frame. So I can pull it out easily in the future.

I don't think the thinkness of either really matters. You could paint it you want, just find non reflective matt black paint. If you are mounting your screen on the wall, then by all means paint the wall instead. Save money on the frame.

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 18 2008, 03:31 PM

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just slotted in? wont tat thing fall of or anything? !!!!!!!!!

ask ur advice, 68" worth getting projector ornot?
htkaki
post Feb 18 2008, 04:23 PM

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I guess it is not that heavy. So, it should hold.

68"? I guess that the max screen size you could get out it, right?
rx330
post Feb 18 2008, 04:24 PM

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yeah lor.. no space... but my distance btwn the projector and hte wall would be abt 5-6 metres....
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 03:31 PM)
just slotted in? wont tat thing fall of or anything? !!!!!!!!!

ask ur advice, 68" worth getting projector ornot?
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Its a "perfect" fit so it won't fall off.

68" issue I already reply in the HT discussion thread, go and read therelah, dun want to repeat again here. smile.gif

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 18 2008, 04:53 PM

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wah seh, perfect slot...
so if i built the frame, the inner part of the ply wood for the screen, do excatly the same size as the empty part will do lar?
even after stapling the screen, i guess the thickness will still be minimal rite?
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 04:53 PM)
wah seh, perfect slot...
so if i built the frame, the inner part of the ply wood for the screen, do excatly the same size as the empty part will do lar?
even after stapling the screen, i guess the thickness will still be minimal rite?
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I asked my contractor to have to allow for the thickness of the blackout cloth and the screen material, the inner frame is smaller by 0.5mm.

If you used a solid piece of plywood, it would be very heavy. It would be better to build a frame... just like a picture frame and then use a brace in the middle to strengthen the long sides..

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 18 2008, 07:21 PM

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yeah... tats wat i need to know... ok, 0.5mm allowance

will follow ur example of frame, but wat u mean by using a brace in the middle to strenghten?
TSjasonlky
post Feb 18 2008, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 07:21 PM)
yeah... tats wat i need to know... ok, 0.5mm allowance

will follow ur example of frame, but wat u mean by using a brace in the middle to strenghten?
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I mean 0.5cm or 5mm. Best to get all the materials and then make a proper estimation for the allowance then.

A Brace is the center piece of wood that supports the long sides of the frame. If u are building a 68" frame, u may not need the brace, just the frame is enuf. I hope the picture below helps....

Attached Image

Jason biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jasonlky: Feb 18 2008, 08:31 PM
rx330
post Feb 18 2008, 10:36 PM

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yeah... i saw this pic many times liao... i dreamt of it even... blush.gif

so basiclally the middle set of ply wood has only the puter frame for support, with no nails or anything, only the outer frame is nailed to the wall

just now did a comparison for size... 42 to 68..... massive....

btw, must the projector point @ the centre of the projection screen? or no need?
TSjasonlky
post Feb 19 2008, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 18 2008, 10:36 PM)
yeah... i saw this pic many times liao... i dreamt of it even... blush.gif

so basiclally the middle set of ply wood has only the puter frame for support, with no nails or anything, only the outer frame is nailed to the wall

just now did a comparison for size... 42 to 68..... massive....

btw, must the projector point @ the centre of the projection screen? or no need?
*
To tell u the truth, initially I intended to secure the middle set with a clip, but because it fit so nicely to the outer frame, I did not bother. I think u need to prepare to use additional support incase the fit is not good. If the fitt is secure, then no need any additional support.

The projector does not need to point at the center of the screen. How much off center can you place the projector? That depends on the availability of the vertical and horizontal lens shift function on the projector as some can do more and others less. Zoom is another important factor when it comes to placement, it determines how near or far back you can place the projector. Read about projector flexibility here. After that read the whole section about buying guide.

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 19 2008, 10:30 AM

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tenkiu bery muchie
yesterday was brwosing thru some setups
i notice they have this 16:9 screen which can transform to a 2.35:1 size,
but an anamorphic lense is needed rite? i heard its very epensip?


Added on February 19, 2008, 10:41 amread abt flexibility liao...
but the hd65 and aw 10 also not really tat flexible sad.gif

This post has been edited by rx330: Feb 19 2008, 10:41 AM
TSjasonlky
post Feb 19 2008, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 19 2008, 10:30 AM)
tenkiu bery muchie
yesterday was brwosing thru some setups
i notice they have this 16:9 screen which can transform to a 2.35:1 size,
but an anamorphic lense is needed rite? i heard its very epensip?


Added on February 19, 2008, 10:41 amread abt flexibility liao...
but the hd65 and aw 10 also not really tat flexible sad.gif
*
Anamorphic conversion lense can cost as much as a new projector rclxub.gif. My Epson TW700 cannot does not have the vertical stretch so I have no use for this, not that I have spare cash to spend on this....

This feature is actually used by the lumen challenged but oh so expensive projectors like the Runco's,JVC's RS2/HD1 and Sony's VW series. After paying so much, the owner's would like to maximise the use of the projector. And watching a 2:35 movie with letter box is just not on, plus the light output is not maximised due to the letter boxing. The vertical stretch plus the anamorphic conversion lense then increases the light output to the projectors maximum.

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 19 2008, 11:47 AM

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so ic... cuntclusion...
anamorphic lense not for peasants

read the buying guide aredi, only flexibnility issues
and hor... it seems tat its impossible to get 68" @ a 15 feet thrwoing distance.... sad.gif any ideas?
htkaki
post Feb 19 2008, 02:47 PM

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Bro, you opt for long-throw lens?
rx330
post Feb 19 2008, 02:53 PM

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wat u mean by tat? hd65 lor... i use the calculator...
spore no bring in, they say the 65 lousy kaler... i was heart broken....
TSjasonlky
post Feb 25 2008, 09:35 AM

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QUOTE(rx330 @ Feb 19 2008, 02:53 PM)
wat u mean by tat? hd65 lor... i use the calculator...
spore no bring in, they say the 65 lousy kaler... i was heart broken....
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I am surprised that Singapore dun have....

Kennot say tat the HD65 is lousylah, its a budget entry from Optoma and is priced accordingly. Its like saying buy Bata shoes but not comfortable like Adidas/<insert favorite shoe brand>....

But one thing is for sure, the placement of the HD65 is not flexible, so u mut take not of that.

Jason biggrin.gif
rx330
post Feb 25 2008, 10:12 AM

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yeah, no lens shift, so must exact projected screen centre point?

i was wondering, if i just do a frame, without the middle insert, and stretch the screen to the back of the frame , wat are the disadvantages?

btw, wats ur screen size diagonally and the frame panel width?

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