Not necessary full rebuilt tho, i have personally seen my OEM/OE absorber serviced they got 1 special tool to insert from top to replenish the gas, if want better they can help also change the hydraulic fluids by tapping one small hole below the absorber and change the fluids. Usually i dont prefer to change aftermarket hydraulic fluids unless they manage to get original fluids from the absorbers manufacturer (Usually is insider ppl sell out) Most aftermarket hydraulic fluids are more thicker in viscosity compare to OEM/OE type thus usually after modify or change will felt very harsh or
"sportier" nature.

FYI, most of my rides even my dads E90 front OEM/OE absorber also service using the method above. The gas pressure & fluid type really depends on the workshop specialty and experience. If you always take care of the absorber covers, bump stopper usually the absorber center/top seal can last for a long time. Until today most of my rides over 10 years absorber only start to leak (i usually serviced my absorbers on the 5th year after warranty end) and can drag another 5 years before the seal give up and change new absorber.

Interesting. Can you recommend the absorber service/rebuild workshop?

Thank you to just prove my points. OEM shocks are not designed to be serviceable.

They are factory sealed, and as you said requires intrusion tools to hack vs reputable aftermarket adjustable shock that can unscrew to expose the valve gracefully, unscrew to dismantle gracefully.
Also replenish gas from the top, meaning yours are twintube OEM. Not the high pressure monotube where gas chamber is either at the bottom or separate canister.
Those low pressure gas don't exert enough force to cause noticeable ride height.

FYI - when people said gas shock, it is exclusively refer to shock with high pressure gas chamber that separate gas from fluid. Mostly monotube, or twintube with external high pressure gas chamber (shock body is 100% fluild no gas), like Ohlins TTX or selected KW Competition.

I don't doubt you did your service, whatever method you sworn by.
I believe fill gas on low pressure twintube OEM shock is not an meaningful service nor upgrade. Also the cost of most OE shocks don't justify for a full rebuild, might as well don't do anything until change a new one.

I can't not help you. Suspension is more like art than science.

What one complains can be desirable effect for another person.

Anyway some 2 cents here.
You mentioned you change mounting and bushing. If your mechanic tightening everything when car is in the air, then you need to find a different mechanic.
Find a reputable mechanic that can perform proper bushing preload release. Get the mechanic to ride with you together.
The shop should be 2 types of lift = Lift from the car body, lift from the wheel (or "longkang" at alignment shop also works).

Bushing preload release is most important step during installation (anything involved unscrew the suspension control arms)
1) Before dismantle, measure car height at all 4 corners when car is on the ground, write them down (from center of the wheel hub to the fender).
2) Lift the the car and remove the parts to be replace.
3) During installation, use a jack to life the lower control arm such that the wheel hub is at same distance from fender using measurement from step 1 (+/- 10mm, don't have to super precise, step 7 will take care of the precision).
4) Screw the parts, but do not fully tighten.
5) Drop the car to ground, drive forward and backward so that the car return to natural resting height.
6) Lift the car with lift that support the wheel, not the car body. Or drive to car alignment machine with "longkang".
7) Loosen all the control arm bushing, and tighten them to the factory OEM torque spec.

Additional not applicable to you.
8) If change sport spring, coilover that significantly lower the car 20-30mm+, need to loosen all the control arm and retighten when car wheel support the car weight. Many of them are difficult to access, so need a mechanical plate to install on the wheel hub instead of actual wheel for this exercise. 99% of mechanic don't have this, need to find tuning shop.

9) For commercial truck, if majority of time is fully loaded, we can also perform the bushing preload (purposely load, instead of release), when the truck if fully loaded. So that when truck is empty, the bushings are twisted, but closest to natural load free position when the truck is loaded. This prolong the bushing service life.

If didn't perform the steps above, the bushing are already twisting when car is resting on the ground. Not uncommon for the twisted bushing to add 10mm+ to car ride height.
The twisted bushings are adding stiffness on top of the car spring. Some more unevenly, adding to random harshness, bumpiness.

Also the new bushings life will be significantly reduced. Image resting already twisted, during bump or ferry people, the bushing are twisted even more than designed if installed properly.

New bushing, new shocks take few days to break-in.
Mounting and bushing should not affect steering, not sure what you mean steering bumpy.

If the car is lowered, it automatically add additional camber for most road car, that will cause steering to weight heavier.
Higher castor angle also can add weight to steering, and cause steering self return to center faster.

Both camber and castor are non adjustable during alignment for a normal road car without modification.

This post has been edited by constant_weight: Nov 27 2025, 11:51 PM

How to get those service ?
Any recommended shop?

Depends on where you are.

Most large shop with at least 4-5 lifts are capable of doing it.

The single shop lot type, mostly don't care. The faster your bushing rotted, the better, it is business opportunity.

Your case the bushing already installed, you can go to your trusted tyre shop's alignment bay.
Ask them to loosen all the control arms bushing bolt/nuts, give your car some good shake and tighten again, remember the wheel supporting the car weight, not in the air.

Especially you mentioned car uneven after new mounting and bushing replacement. I smell both side bushings are different tension.

This maybe not be the root cause, but it is the most relatable to your recent replacement and cheapest work with no parts replacement.
Try this first if none of shock absorbers are leaking.

If the shock absorbers are leaking, replace them right away. During the shocks replacement, they need to loosen the bushing on control arms.
Ensure they perform the same bushing preload release steps after install new shocks.

This post has been edited by constant_weight: Yesterday, 11:17 AM

Mine workshop is at Penang, most absorber workshop at mainland can do this service. Just google absorber service nearby can see few already, is quite a lot nowadays. Prefer to see those with good reviews.

Well, as per said different workshop got their expertise. Maybe you never seen those special tool, but from what i heard from the workshop it is similar to those in factory. A lot of those shop which started the business some of them work in OEM factory like APM & KYB factory doing OEM/OE absorbers for car manufacturer so this is where they got the idea.

I don't doubt your buddy has some intrusive/abrasive tools to make it works, then seal/weld/glue back the hole/scar/gaps from the process.
Totally trusted you my friend, totally understand.

I think that is not worth the effort for cheap OE shocks, and the effect on a mere 5 years old low pressure shocks is negligible or placebo.

90% of people, can't even tell when we mix 1x new shock with 3x 10 years old shock (as long as the 3 are in working condition not leaking oil)

Anywnay, as long as you happy, I said previously whatever you sworn by.
Respect your decision, maybe just no need exaggerate recommend useless claim low pressure gas of shock can support your car height, restore car height as solution to solve TS bumpiness issues.
Not a concern for 99% of people with few millimeters off.
Remaining 1% do what they sworn by good or bad, you and me included.

Even during significant gas leak the shock become softer, causing boat ride. Not stiffer, not bumpiness.
If TS car is so soft and crushing the bump stop, he no need to ask here, any mechanic can tell even the bawah pokok one.

12 years old shocks, any issues just replace new set. Straightforward.

This post has been edited by constant_weight: Yesterday, 11:08 AM

First gen 86 BRZ is only 2k+ spring rates, all 4 front and rear both brands.

Second gen only increased few hundred grams per mm to just barely hitting 3k spring rates on the dot.

Stock Miata any gen are typically even softer sprung.

All these cars generally have no spring preload either, giving an even softer perception.

You can literally air gun removal of the strut mounts without any spring clamps and no one would get hurt at all.

TTX are generally lower gas pressured compared to DFV exactly because of the twin tube nature

And yet they are the "real Ohlins" and their flagship car product.