For comfort just use original honda absorber and coil spring 😆🐝

Usually original honda will give you the same feeling just like brand new car out of the showroom, meamwhile other brands depending on what brand, different brand will give you different feeling, it might be better then original honda or may be worst

For other brand i can think, kayaba rs absorber, coil spring either use original honda or kayaba 😏🐝

If you change the absorber, better change along the coil spring together, yes kayana rs ultra....

A mix of heavy duty performance & comfort.

That's why original honda absorber with original honda coil spring would be the best for comfort, or like you mentioned kayaba absorber with original honda coil spring also will be a nice combo 😜🐝

Besides from visible seen issue, usually is absorbers already wear also can impact height. Most my rides after change or service absorbers the height return back normal. (usually for gas filled absorbers after few years it will for sure loss it pressure & lower down due to wear & tear, normal servicing can help replenish the gas pressure and return to normal height)

Normal OEM or OE replacement shock has no gas fill valve. Refill gas means full rebuild, tear down to replace the oil, rubber seals altogether.

There are shops offering this service, but not worth the effort/cost for most OEM shocks and aftermarket non-adjustable performance shocks like Bilstein B6, B8.
Besides, most OEM shocks are twin tubes. The gas pressure is very low, usually only 2-3 bars. Some even 1 bar same as atmospheric pressure, especially for offroad vehicle.

If you have to ask this question, probably belongs in not worth the effort/cost bucket.

-------------------------------------------------------

Good adjustable shocks are designed to serviceable with gas fill valve.
Still a good reputable shock even high pressure filled monotube shock rarely have gas pressure issue from street use for at least good 8-10years, when it is time just send for full rebuild.

-------------------------------------------------------

Monotube Shock is the one that have high pressure 10 bars+ or 150psi+, racing use 200-300psi is not uncommon.

At 100-150psi range, the upward force is only about 20kg, so even with monotube, in a good tuning car weight is supported by the spring, not gas pressure.
Shock job is control rate of spring oscillation, speed of compression/rebound. Maximum pitch and body roll are primarily still job of spring.
Gas pressure key job is to prevent foaming or fancy word cavitation.

** let's ignore motion ratio effect of lower control arm length for simplicity.
Unless one is running very soft OEM spring at stock car height eg:. 2k spring rate, 20kg yield 10mm.
10mm is huge for Sport sedan, sport car, tuned car but on SUV or stock B Segment it is unnoticeable for most people.

Then one should also question why pair such a soft spring with a performance shock, the natural frequency will be all out.
Even a light weight Miata runs 4k - 8k spring rate depending on the tuning.
Random example with a common setup eg:. 10k spring rate, 20kg yield only 2mm.

Compare this with compression from full length supported by spring, negligible.
Easy to talk fancy oh my gas shock support car height, practically it only affect one ant length  More likely his/her mechanic did a shabby job, not properly release the bushing preload during installation, messing with the heigh and stiffness.

My personal experience Ohlins DFV (monoshock) is insanely stiff, able to control spring 2-3 times stiffer than OEM and yet surprisingly comfortable.
I couldn't full compress with my body weight at stiffest. Even at softest setting was very difficult to compress, couldn't do it without mounting plate.

At 10 clicks (1 stiffest, 22 softest), I could literally felt the white lines. Currently running 16 clicks, a comfort setup.

I can't not help you. Suspension is more like art than science.

What one complains can be desirable effect for another person.

Anyway some 2 cents here.
You mentioned you change mounting and bushing. If your mechanic tightening everything when car is in the air, then you need to find a different mechanic.
Find a reputable mechanic that can perform proper bushing preload release. Get the mechanic to ride with you together.
The shop should be 2 types of lift = Lift from the car body, lift from the wheel (or "longkang" at alignment shop also works).

Bushing preload release is most important step during installation (anything involved unscrew the suspension control arms)
1) Before dismantle, measure car height at all 4 corners when car is on the ground, write them down (from center of the wheel hub to the fender).
2) Lift the the car and remove the parts to be replace.
3) During installation, use a jack to life the lower control arm such that the wheel hub is at same distance from fender using measurement from step 1 (+/- 10mm, don't have to super precise, step 7 will take care of the precision).
4) Screw the parts, but do not fully tighten.
5) Drop the car to ground, drive forward and backward so that the car return to natural resting height.
6) Lift the car with lift that support the wheel, not the car body. Or drive to car alignment machine with "longkang".
7) Loosen all the control arm bushing, and tighten them to the factory OEM torque spec.

Additional not applicable to you.
8) If change sport spring, coilover that significantly lower the car 20-30mm+, need to loosen all the control arm and retighten when car wheel support the car weight. Many of them are difficult to access, so need a mechanical plate to install on the wheel hub instead of actual wheel for this exercise. 99% of mechanic don't have this, need to find tuning shop.

9) For commercial truck, if majority of time is fully loaded, we can also perform the bushing preload (purposely load, instead of release), when the truck if fully loaded. So that when truck is empty, the bushings are twisted, but closest to natural load free position when the truck is loaded. This prolong the bushing service life.

If didn't perform the steps above, the bushing are already twisting when car is resting on the ground. Not uncommon for the twisted bushing to add 10mm+ to car ride height.
The twisted bushings are adding stiffness on top of the car spring. Some more unevenly, adding to random harshness, bumpiness.

Also the new bushings life will be significantly reduced. Image resting already twisted, during bump or ferry people, the bushing are twisted even more than designed if installed properly.

New bushing, new shocks take few days to break-in.
Mounting and bushing should not affect steering, not sure what you mean steering bumpy.

If the car is lowered, it automatically add additional camber for most road car, that will cause steering to weight heavier.
Higher castor angle also can add weight to steering, and cause steering self return to center faster.

Both camber and castor are non adjustable during alignment for a normal road car without modification.