My city gm6 has change the suspension before but still got sound.
I thk he dint change the lower arm that time.
It has been 11 years.
Do u advice to change it ourself?
Or buy part and change at mechanic shop? What is the damage?
Or just change at mechanic shop?
Oem or original better?

cannot change by diy. need a lot of tools.
might refill gear oil after leaking out from shaft.

my naza buy from online 160 oem, install fee 130. for right side only.
gear oil 30 refill myself becos of foreman tak apa attitude. alignment 25

the large bush was pecah causing tayar makan tepi until benang came out.
so u can inspect from wear pattern

lower arm got gear oil?
Which part?

if you have the tools and knowlegde, sure you can do it yourself.
some workshop didnt want to install parts that customer bring.
some they dont mind just pay the labour only, but no warranty lah since you bring the part yourself.

Mine GM2 changed at workshop
I bought OEM brand due to genuine cost 3times of the cost
Mechanic charged me RM100 per side then RM30 on alignment

Like how do you even want to change it yourself unless you have all the tools required? You need a heavy duty air wrench, mallets and sockets of different sizes. Normal people don't even have a safety jack stand. After changing the lower arm you will need to do an alignment also.

arm join with knuckle. join to drive shaft.
change arm might tarik out drive shaft a little. here leak

100 bao material cost ? very worth

Rm100 per side mean rm200

200 still very worth. i paid over 300 for replacing right side only

What car?
Dont compare an alza with ur ferrari.

workmaship cost RM100, i bought the lower arm from spare parts shop ..

Rm100 per side ? Mean rm200 for both side.

So i wonder, shall i get the tool and diy, lol. I saw some diy at home. Well, need aligment afterall. I have second though.

I saw a good premium local brand Muteki. Mcm veli good.
1set rm300+....

The basic tools (though might not be d most efficient and effective)
- Car jack and tire removing tools (to jack up the vehicle although do note that it is safer to set it down on jack stands before work begins)
- pry bar or a long solid screw driver (to push down ball joint point of the lower arm from the knuckle)
- spanners and socket set (remove the bolts and nut of d ball joint, will need various sizes)
- needle nose pliers (to open and bend both old and new cotter pins at the castle nut)
- a good sized hammer that is capable enough to knock loose the ball joint from d knuckle (some will use a suitable sized ball joint separator)
- antirust like WD40 or silicone spray

IMHO, for someone who has no or minimum DIY experience on cars, better buy and bring it to a mechanic to do it, coz there is d risk of injuring urself or cause unnecessary damage to d vehicle.

* 1 important note for newbies. B4 embarking on any new DIY repairs, do consider if d attempted repair fails and whatever's taken apart cannot be put together, will u still b able to drive d vehicle to d nearest workshop or if there is any1 knowledgeable to contact and come over for help.

This post has been edited by Deja Vu: Jul 23 2025, 10:34 AM

Not sure why you're attracted to this kind of product with Jap name. Better check if they are the manufacturer or they get their product from someone else and just slap on marketing effort (hence the Jap name).

Why not try local manufacturers with their own factory? Brands like Denco, Lokco Zenwa (ZW) etc. put up effort to have their own factory and manufacture products by themselves. IMO these deserve a better/higher chance/consideration from consumers.

Personally using both Lokco (lower control arms, front and rear) and Denco (engine mountings) on my Wira and they are solid products, especially the lower control arms (significantly heavier than cheap OEM units but same weight as outgoing genuine P1 arms)

Thanks you for replying and the giving your opinions of lower arm brands and the quality.
Do you have any recommended link to buy genuine lokco denco lower arm and engine mounting?

Ayam are new to this.
AMB i have come across claimed they are the manufacter local mly brand with muteki brand.




This post has been edited by Zhik: Jul 23 2025, 09:00 PM

I have just ask the uncle mechanic.
Installation labour fee for
1. rear suspensions 1set rm100.
2. lower arms rm100++
3. Engine mounting rm100++

He has no machine so aligment has to be done at elsewhere.
Consider good price?
Ayam tot of changing the rear suspension myself.
My mechanic boss agree with me that chaging rear suspension is very easy.



This post has been edited by Zhik: Jul 23 2025, 08:40 PM

just buy the bushing. Mechanic can use hydraulic press to press out the old bushing and put in the new one.

Car will feel brand new.

I am aware of this too.
What is the damage?
Mcm both side change rm300-400.

you mentioned on 1st post that your car still have sound. What sound is that coz sometimes it wasn't suspension sound. also where did it come from, front or rear? It may well be brake caliper sound but you go change the entire suspension in hope to solve something it is not and waste money in doing so.