any photos or reviews on the waja cps esp in term of engine performance and quality wise?

when will it be released or izzit still in rumor stage?

the wheels may not cost much, but the tyres are. a brand new set of 17" tyres will cost nearly rm2,000

keep in mind, if you put in 17", your ride will look a bit tall, so you may probably need to lower your car

i just realized that the new steering wheel is FULL leather

that's how they should be. gonna get me one of that later if it cost less than 300

why change springs when it's perfectly good to start with?

just replace the absorbers and bushing and you'll have a barnd-new-like ride

those should be replaced at least once every 2 years.

they are not that expensive. RM 40 -70 for each NORMAL shock absorbers and about RM 20 - 30 for a set of rubber bushings. Add a bit for labor and you'll have a good ride for less than RM 250

did u do a ECU re-set?

WAJA has one stupid setback where if you disconnect the batts, the ECU goes haywire and forgot all the settings. it won't shift properly and changes gear very very late

that's why you are advised AGAINST dicsonnecting the batt at any time

old news. this has been discussed in the first version thread

waja should be INVECS II - it adapts to your driving style, but w/o the sequential gear shift

and as for the ECU, no i don't think it will reset by itself. it will just forget since it draws power from your car battery. the ROM is gone when the power is not there. so, go to the SC and remap the ECU

i dunno if this applies to Campro Engine since both mitsu and campro uses different ECU

This post has been edited by lucifah: Feb 20 2008, 02:33 PM

what happens to your OEM headunit?

if it's not traded off, i'm interested... at least in the rubber knobs (or condom). the older waja is thorny and f-ugly

wah, banyak barang bro...

some things that i want:
a. new centre console buttons (the central lock, fog light, hazard, etc)
b. new clarion HU
c. new full leather wrap steering wheel

of course that is normal for auto-folding side mirrors

the driver side angle is usually wider than the passenger side, hence the not ngam timing one.

if you have driven lots of foreign (esp japs) cars that has auto-folding mirrors as STANDARD, you should have noticed this too

i just checked out WAJA CPS today at a roadshow

man, the interior looks very nice. and the color scheme is just awesome. a few interesting thing to note:

1. the abs unit is made-in-germany. mann.. that's gotta be good
2. the raised mid-console arm rest is nice, but it wiggles around too much. not good.
3. the leather wrapped steering wheel is nice, but do something about the nasty cheap plastic portion.

1st time i see somebody refer abs to absorber. it's abs as in ABS, A.B.S. aka anti-lock braking system

the system is made in germany, as etched on its aluminum die cast body.

fixed for justice!

didn't seem to work. the link is incorrect. bah... let others try

This post has been edited by lucifah: Apr 5 2008, 10:52 PM

dun even bother to repair. the fueld indicator never works correctly, since from 1st bacth of waja

you can never tell when it's 3/4 full or 1/2 full or 1/4 full. it is never right. the only thing it tells you correctly is when it's near empty

15", 16" or 17" preferences is more to your budget and how daring you can be

latest prices checked:
15" - around 180 - 220
16" - 200 - 260
17" - definitely more than 250 each, and can go up to 500+ (conti, 225/40/r17)

and a 17" wheels will make you think twice to drive fast (u know, the potholes, even a small one can dent your wheel or tear your rubber)

ride height:
oem - 195/55/r15
16" - 205/45/r16 - not much difference
17" - 225/40/r17 - 1" higher ride, really spoil the car handling (to me lar). need to lower ride height

the 2004 variant - those wheels were recalled due to fatigue issue, and they were HEAVY. however, the spokes design are nice


yup, those 17" are heavy, even if they are the lightest variant i can get, u can feel the sluggish pickup. cornering? can't say much cos of the many cars i've driven, a waja has quite a respectable cornering stability

tapi ingat, with 17" wide tyres, when cornering, all the stones and cobbles is thrown on your car body cos it's wide... lots of chip marks on my door side and rear fender oledi - it's worse if you have a 245mm wide rear wheels (usually, the combo is 22mm front, 245mm at the rear)



p/s i've just changed to 17" wheels (3-piece japanese made with potenza tyres), so i can really tell the difference. gonna change back to the 15" oem wheels once i got my dent repaired. (nearly fainted when see new 17" tyre prices...)

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Added on April 9, 2008, 11:09 pmdamn you're right cos most 17" tyres are made-in-japan (or korea, italy or france) which has softer compound for that extra grip (even those malaysian or indonesians and thailand ones don't fare well too.

normal and cheap 15" malaysian made sime tyres are damn hard. 3 tahun pakai pun tak habis haus lagi. hahaha. my oem tryes still has more than 70% of the thread even after 40k mileage

This post has been edited by lucifah: Apr 9 2008, 11:09 PM

pop up your hood and look for an solid aluminum block, about 4"x4"x4" size with 4 tiny aluminum tubes going into it

the newer waja campro cps has its abs cube (or whatever they call it) at the left side, near the windscreen wash water tank

the older models have theirs located near the alarm / siren, IIRC

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Added on April 12, 2008, 12:36 amnah... the lights may not even lit and u never know. pop up the hood and do it the macho way

This post has been edited by lucifah: Apr 12 2008, 12:36 AM

change on time is very vague

some recommend changing every 5,000km
some recommend changing every 3-month, whether it has reached 5,000km or not

but to really save cost, just change them every 10,000km and you should be ok - that's what the manual recommends anyway

pics with your car riding the wheel?

how much are those? 17"?

learn to brake.

ABS and EBD are scary shit - it gives you false sense of security and makes you wanna drive faster

take out the passenger and rear seats - they weigh more than the sub. u should save about 40kg

then throw away the spare tyre - it's a good 10kg

pop up your hood and remove your wiper water tank - it weighs 2kg when full

remove you HU - it weighs 0.5kg

door panels are about 3kg each. so 4 doors equal 12kg lighter

those are FOC weight saving techniques - but not that they are gonna improve ur speed anyway