I brought a Axia advance on 2016 and it is 9 years now. since Axia is 1.0 4at, i just press full pedal all the way. currently axia did not give me trouble yet, but with my driving pattern, engine will koyak 1 day. i heard normal car will have a big service on 10 years. so i m dilemma on :-

1.) sell the axia and buy a second hand car. due to my golden foot, cvt cars isnt for me at all. and i dont wan to spend so much since my already brought my current axia for 42k. i targeted 2nd hand mazda 2 2018 for roughly RM42k on the carsome/carro/carlist apps (if axia trade in RM20k, i only top up RM22k which i think is kinda ok to me). but again 7 years car and additional RM22k it is worst it?



2.) keep using axia, when big service, just repair and continue using axia until he is retired. actually i like axia very much but there r only 2 things annoy me, vibration and the 1.0 engine (extra low hoursepower).


based on this, wat is the opinion and suggestion?

Upgrade to Bezza je.

buy i like hatchback, bezza is difficult to me

from Abang AI ChatGPT:
That’s a great question, and it depends on a few key factors like your budget, driving needs, and what you value in a car (e.g. fuel efficiency, comfort, features, maintenance costs). Let’s break it down:

🧾 Consider These:
✅ Stick with Axia if:
You want to save money (no new loan).
You do mostly city driving.
Low maintenance cost is a priority.
You're happy with basic features.

🚗 Upgrade to Mazda 2 if:
You want more comfort, better drive feel, and safety.
You're okay with slightly higher maintenance/parts cost.
You want a more premium feel and features like push start, better NVH, etc.
You're planning longer drives or highway use.

💸 Budget & Loan?
A 2018 Mazda 2 used in Malaysia can cost anywhere between RM40k–RM55k depending on condition and mileage. If your Axia is fully paid off, it might be worth RM15k–RM20k. So you'd be looking at top-up of ~RM20k–RM35k.

👀 Verdict
If you're after comfort, better safety, and a more refined experience, the Mazda 2 is a worthwhile upgrade. But if you're more focused on low running cost and practicality, your Axia is still a solid, no-frills car especially for city use.

2016 Axia market value around 15-16k.
Having it for 8 years never gave any issue.

You buy a 7 year old mazda, be ready to spend 20k for maintenance and repair.

If you really want to sell the car, sell it before the 10th year because bank loan for buyers will be harder for secondhand cars aged 10 years onwards, thus your secondhand value also will depreciates.
I made a mistake by valuating my car on the 9th year and found it still have some value but decided to hold on since it's still having good value. On the 10th year, I went back to valuate the value again only to find it's value drop a lot and that reason was given to me.

This post has been edited by Capt. Marble: Apr 24 2025, 04:08 PM

that's me dilemma, the only complains on my axia are the vibration and 1.0 engine. so my thought is my complains worth the upgrade or not.

should i continue the axia until it retired?

wait for saga hatchback

change engine mount already? bolt on turbo?
if car is just your vehicle from point A to B, if yes then why not just continue use unless it give you alot trouble.

This post has been edited by yongchin89: Apr 24 2025, 04:23 PM

I think whatever decision, most important is if you can afford the change.
No point suffering in restricted spending if you cannot.
I strongly do not recommend a Mazda.
Safer with a Toyota 10 year old vios, altis, camry all under 40k can get.
You want newer, MYVI can never go wrong.

you make decision like this, will always have reason to regret one

if you keep, and the car starts to break down
if you sell, upgrade, but the new 2nd hand car maybe give you problems

you gotta choose your path and stick to it, then, come what may

in your case, I'd say change it

i heard u, thanks for the info.

dislike saga, i only like hatchback car

axia is 3 cylinder engine anyhow mod or change engine mount also vibrate non stop... and i dont like to mod engine scare later boom haha... anyway thanks for the opinion but serious thought, axia did not give me any issue at all

i heard u, how about a 2nd hand 4at myvi? i dont think cvt can last long with my golden foot.

that's my dilemma here. axia havent got any issue atm, but i have golden foot for 9 years, sooner the engine will cause me a boom. and u didnt enlighted me, if i have doubt on my option, i will regret on either of the decision make

Golden foot. If you brave, i recommend a year 200X Mini Cooper 1.6 MANUAL.

He is talking about the new Geely powered 1.5NA Saga Hatchback

Golden foot, manual is best.
New Axia 22K another 9 years 😆

almost 40 dont wan the hazzle to drive manual haha...

i didnt know saga is going with new hatch back version. dont la last time my kelisa press until clutch cable putus and breakdown in the middle of road...

I would just keep the Axia and save money. Drive, fix , repeat until you really need something bigger. Enjoy not having to service a loan. Save the money. Invest.

If you are thinking of buying a used car to replace it, I'm thinking budget isn't too healthy. And god forbid you buy a used car under a loan. That would be a disaster.

You don't want to get yourself in a situation to have to service a loan AND having to pay for major repairs.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 24 2025, 05:16 PM

Quite a few channels talked about it.
Question is whether 2025 or 2026.

If you so bad on even maintaining a basic/simple Axia, i would recommend you to get EV and not another ICE engine car model...

thanks for the advice. tbh i still likes my axia and i like my car plate number too... been 2 times other car bang on my rear axia, both time toto 4D got my number out.

after 9 years owning axia, and a little bit tiny modification (except engine), i have to say i like my axia afterall...

Buy Axia E , 5 Speed MT plus RM22k Only
trade in with your current Axia , at least you got a new car

how many km u driven daily-monthly ? replace (not upgrade) with m2 macam climb into another hole.
perhaps u need to choose something higher level

similar as what i did, ckd peugeot transplant 1.6 manual
mild hatchback
worth

Worry about 10 years services. Proceed to buy 7 years old car. So change car every 2 years after that? Where’s the logic?

Worried my about 10 years service coz scare spent major money. Proceed to spend major money to replace it with an almost equally old car. Where’s the logic?

To know if your complain is worth changing the car. Consider the cost of it. If replace the car, the cost of replacement how many years of saving you need to sacrifice? That will mean how many years you need to work for the car aka your complain. Is it worth it?

How much can you afford monthly? Mazda and axia maintenance cost is quite different.

Want hatchback?
Can consider

Suprima and iriz also. But if suprima too old, second hand Iriz active 1.6 should be enough. Proton got poor RV compared to perodua. I bought my wife a 2 year old Iriz active 10k off the new price. Cannot find any perodua RV rm10k gone in 2 years

TS, your golden foot will like the 1.6 Iriz power & handling

150k milage now.

m having a serious consideration yesterday night. i better stick with my current axia

thanks guy for the suggestion and i will close this thread now

Congratulations

you drive uphill downhill a lot? if usually flat road then is fine

what is the current mileage?
and even if golden foot, the AT will hold the rev down, unlike manual you can overrev

I have 20yo Kenari 4AT, just recently drive shaft boot leak, and another 12yo Exora Bold (turbo+CVT)

I'm saying the Axia quite possibly has lots of life left. what will the new car bring to your life?

you don't have to change car because it starts giving problem
once you decided to jump, then accept whatever that comes with it

currently at 150k milage, i mostly city drive, when i m driving alone, i like drive fast at 100km/h at highway (but i only up to 100km/h max), that make the rev all the way to 4000rpm or 5000rpm everything i accelerate or overtake cars. nowaday when i rev to 4000rpm, i can heard the 'wing wing' sound like wisper from the engine bay and been 1 years already, send to workshop, they say no issue. this worry me that's y i have the thought to change car...

maybe accessory belt. inspect & find bila tukar last time (km)

150k km... my Exora is 160k liao

in my case, if I need to overtake, I go "L", and floor it. not trying to brag, I just think quite some people stress their car more than you think you do

wing wing sound, can be anything, sometimes could be something that's totally unrelated like recirculation flap air leak, or alternator one way pulley etc
need some luck finding the right foreman who knows it

my personal perception is, my Kenari and Exora, is cheap to fix so far
the Axia, I'd only change it because of passive safety feature is lacking

back to your main question, just focus on what the new car can bring into your life and then accept it as it is

2016 axia to 2018 mazda 2
Better no need change

Trying to kill a Toyota derived engine? Haha good luck. Golden foot wor

As long as you change the engine oil according to service interval and let the engine warm up before you tekan. It’ll last another 300k km easy.

Don’t buy fake engine oils, those super cheap ones from lazada and shopee. If wanna buy, get from Lotus’s in Lazada. Fake oil, that will kill the engine not your foot.

Axia is really practical king for city. Aircon sejuk, save fuel. Everything else is a downgrade economically. Buy expensive car and pay more for fuel.

This post has been edited by Jason: Apr 26 2025, 09:12 AM

fake oil is how bad. i begin to try 1 by 1 brand and felt awesome than workshop branded oils

Buy from official store safer, me myself use mizu engine oil bought from official store

Have you changed your axia engine mounting since you bought the car? Driven before an axia with Abt 40k+ mileage and vibration is way better than a proton persona at about the same mileage

my 2011 city is 173k km now.
for me, this car i will just keep it.

and...I'm buying over my relative's 2005-6 altis as my 2nd car.

i would advise if you really want to keep the car, try keep it in good condition.
try learn from the car club subforum here or join FB car group see common issue and the minor fix needed.

have you changed your serpentine belt yet?
typically need to change every 100k km.
might want to read up about it and see if the symptom matches yours.

This post has been edited by cempedaklife: Apr 26 2025, 06:50 PM

just change the engine mounting on saturday, the car engine really like NEW now... totally no vibration at all.

also replace the aircond coil last month, aircond now cold as f. have to agree that axia is really economical on everything

and all the services sent to perodua service centre, i believe everything should be good now.

aircon u need to take care becos price higher. other things r fine.
plenty driving school & grab lou use axxia

and u wont enjoy the same way after replace to m2

This post has been edited by ktek: Apr 28 2025, 10:50 AM

if you can afford, sell the axia now while it still fetches a good price.

put down depo for a better car .

kaki tekan, don't use produa. you are only endangering yourself and others.

also we are getting old , surely body not react the same way . if you are in your 20's, no prob use axia. once you hit 30s or even 40s, if you can afford, i would advice to change..

Can you guys suggest a good engine oil for Axia? Already out of warranty, going outside service. Previously used some cap yam oil called "beast" idk wtf is that.

which year axxia? km? any problem tak using beast.
cap ayam is fine as long u replace early

Bad advise

Just get original P2 synthetic and use for 10k km intervals. Labor is also cost.

“Change early” takes time AND money and recycled shit brand oils are proven to gunk up and kill your engine.

You eat heroin or crack also felt awesome. Won’t kill you immediately one. Ini bukan /k pls go back there.

This post has been edited by Jason: May 4 2025, 03:41 PM

Not frequently driven car so no comment lol,but over a year already, time to change oil even low mileage

2016 axia

recycle? no evidence on hand. let sirim do their jobs.

instead of dissing me use cheappy oil in cheappy vehicles.
do u mind to teach us how we identify tulen p2 or replica p2 oils?
too many sellers in d market lah.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4192241/+940

Getting original EO from service center provides peace of mind.

So yeah, trying multiple unknown brands is really pushing your luck at the expense of your engine.

Your money, your car.

If daily city drive for work, stick to axia.
Cheaper maintenance.

If drive on highway more then mazda 2.

Keep in mind buying second hand cars is like buying lottery.
If you hit the jackpot prepare for major service.

This post has been edited by COOLPINK: May 4 2025, 06:07 PM

>>post265<< lets copy out zeng mentioned over there:


no worries to me. so far biker complains are far more affected by unknown lubes than cars

Most of us can only afford one car and regular oil change with a reputable source minimize the risk of fake lubricants.

No worries for you maybe but to recommend unknown oils without a reputable company backing it in open forum, you're going to be called out as irresponsible.

I would not recommend using any engine oil until 10k km. Its proven many times this would harm the engine causing issues down the road.
Even nissan legendary gtr engine builder said it will harm engine and its much better even to use the cheapest brand oil and change frequently.

driving a 2015 axia. super reliable, never gave any problems. I don't even service on time, only once around 13 - 14 months. this car is built to last. easy to park in small places.
only issue is comfort, power and maybe safety, lacking in these 3 areas. don't get me wrong, it's still OK. The car is very suitable for city driving. As for long distance, it can still go from point A to B, just keep your expectations under control. Overall, a wise man's choice especially for those who do not wish to splurge on depreciating assets and want peace of mind.

This post has been edited by abhipraaya: May 4 2025, 10:43 PM

Cheapest genuine oil is not the issue.
Fake oil is the problem and its prevalent here.

Even my regular mechanic cut the empty EO plastic container into half threw it in front of the shop to stop the syndicate keep asking for it.

Oh u got a good mechanic there.
So far i just buy from shoppe official store for my bold fs engine oil and change evry 5k. Previously i bought from tesco, lotus shell engine oil

The shell helix ultra is proper high end stuff for bargain price sold by lotus. And they won’t sell fakes.

It really is Ferrari factory fill oil…

hey. thanks my blotter oil test

if you have family/dependents, get a new car with the latest safety features, e.g 6 airbags, adas , etc.
if still single but need a better car to get the girls, then upgrade, if not, then just maintain

Too bad not cheap ady, while some lotus outlets no more car accessories section. If got the retail price is rm249, maybe because of the sirim implementations. Last time tesco rm149 terus buy 2 botols.

Tested bold fully 10w 40 just rm20.90 on my bike. Easy start and accelerations feels 'sharp' and fuel saving. But after 200km running, got clutch slip problem the gear indicator blinking and the bike tend to overheat after running 20 km in hot day afternoon. End up change castrol 'synthetic base' rm40, all problem gone.

My car i got using bold atas 5w 40, no problem running 10k+ km. Just that when release the old oil, the mechanic comment that the oil more like liquid rather than oil.

Yea i think the motor oil not fully optimized. Even my bike when change to bold oil 10w40 fs, its harder to engage gears for around 20km i think. After that its smooth already. So i think when it mixed with other gear oil it becomes funny.

But my kawasaki ninja still continue using bold till today no issue.

Just cause the problem hasn’t occur doesn’t mean it’s fine.

By the time problem happens too late already.. honestly not much savings. With the SHU sometimes I just go up to 12k km or even 15k km.

I did do 15k km intervals in god car with Amsoil and German Castrol. Open up the head, everything was clean with a copper varnish and no gunk or residue whatsoever.

what is so bad about mazda?

Exactly the same issue, gear macam too loose to engage at low speed between 2~3 gear or maybe fs not suitable for high mileage bike. Mine is Honda rs150 only mileage 43k+ km dy. U should try castrol 4T from shopee mall, the bike feel more power and throttle more smooth.

Which 4T ya? Got a few types.

Well said bro, agreed with you, all the toyota variants that you've mentioned definitely reliable, parts easy to get, comfortable ✅

Castrol POWER1 4T 10W-40 (1.2L) Motorcycle Synthetic Technology API SP JASO MA2

My bike needs 1.2L else i go for ultimate fs which only got 1.0L pack, buy 2 over rm100 waste money.

My bike needs 2.2L. I rarely use my bike though, since my skin x tahan panas one. Typical chinese skin...kena matahari will immediately become black black. So thats why i guna bold je.
Also mat rempits keep puji bold when they dismantle their engine all clean clean and cantik no worm out.