I should have gotten all EF lens instead of EF-S lens

I regret now since I can buy Canon EOS RP under RM4K

APC lens are much more compact. It allows me to bring them on hikes/travels (my use case).

If I only had a FF... I don't think I'd do any of that. No regrets here.

Well you can get a aps-c prime for travel. While everything else FF lens?

what are those EF s lens you have for your canon camera? FF lenses are not optimized for apsc sensor, so don't regret.

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8
Tamron 17-50mm

Seems like old lens resolution is very bad after watching some video.

So we actually need to buy new lens if want sharper image

Old lens is not that sharp unless it's very expensive like 85mm f1.2

There are so many things to consider. Lens library, ur budget, ur photography preference etc.

Just cause FF body is cheap doesnt mean the lens library is cheap as well. Consider the focal length and aperture u want and check the lens price before u jump into FF. I laugh at people buying f4 lens on FF body and then complain not enough bokeh lol. Apsc can produce better result than FF if u know what to look for.

Also FYI, FF can be compact, see Sony A7C with the Sony FF compact/almost pancake lens. The only caveat is the price.

Those two lenses you've mentioned are quite popular lenses and they retain their value quite well. If you're really going to get the RP, then just sell them, I don't think you willl lose much. But be warned, the FF lenses are usually more expensive than apsc counterpart. Perhaps you can ask yourself, why you wanted to go to full frame?

From your lens collection and choices, I think that you're not that long into the photography (correct me if I'm wrong). If you want full frame so that you can get better bokeh, then you have to ask yourself, can you afford the F2.8 full frame lenses? As trialgone said, people complain not getting enough bokeh on FF with F4 lenses. Because F4 aperture on FF is about the same as apsc with F2.8. You may end up spending more money getting into full frame but getting similar results with your current apsc gears. Not to mention, Full frame lenses are usually bulkier and heavier.

It is also true that some old lenses resolution are bad, but can you really tell the different if you only view them on the small screen of your phone ? I don't think most people can tell the differences unless they zoomed in to 100% or more to the photos.

If you really want to up your photo game, I would suggest you add some prime lenses (such as 50mm or 35mm) to your collection instead. You will instantly see the different (in term of bokeh). Even if you decided to sell all your gears and move to Full frame, my last advice still hold true.

Ya Sony FF seems to be the best especially ZV-E1

Since my Canon efs lens is kinda useless in FF, might as well change brand.

Do you think 0.71x speed booster adapter will increase F4 to F2.8?

Also I am wondering 0.71x will make Tokina 11mm useful?

Seems like for full frame, Tokina 16mm only useful while any wider will have corner being blocked.

ZV-E1 is video centric. If u want for photo get like A7iii or A7C or something with mechanical shutter.

I'm not really sure what's ur goal with FF. If u doing this professionally or u have lots of money, FF is better deal as it offers more versatility and lens selection. But in no way its budget friendly unless u dive into vintage and knowing second hand markets.

Speed booster in very simplified summary just make smaller sensor e.g. M43 or Apsc acts like FF when paired with dslr FF lens. Note I mentioned dslr lens since it only works with lens designed for camera with long mounting flange onto mirroless camera with shorter flange.

But since u mention efs lens, if not mistaken (I'm not canon guy) isn't that just aspc lens? Then speedbooster is useless.

This post has been edited by TrialGone: Apr 10 2023, 03:44 PM

Just hobbyist who love night photography without noise. Been dreaming about a7iii lol

Ya I still reading the speed booster. I thought it can boost aps-c lens also by change the distance of flange to make aps-c lens cover whole FF sensor. I might confuse on that. Do I move the aps-c lens further from sensor or nearer to sensor to make it over full frame?

This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 10 2023, 04:07 PM

Speedbooster concentrate FF circle to smaller circle to fit into apsc sensor. The opposite of that is teleconverter but I don't think that's what u looking for. I think u confuse on lots of thing from what I read. U better look into utube video on speedbooster first.

If u primary aim for low light, then sure FF is the way to go. But like i mentioned FF gears are not cheap so u better do some price study on lens and camera combo first. Don't buy FF body and then cheap out on lens. Apsc can also do lowlight (paired with fast lens) but of course not as good as FF. Really depends on the quality level u want.

There's optics in speedbooster? I thought it's just increase/decrease the distance to sensor. Will watch more YouTube on speedbooster

Ya my hobby is night and also landscape
You are right it's not cheap.
Cheap one like EOS RP has old sensor which is noisier than current aps-c sensor and dynamic range also bad.

Thanks a lot for your tips and comment

Ok, I just study more on the 0.71x speedbooster,
its the opposite of what I want

I guess I need an adapter that do 1.6x speedlower (not booster)

Speedbooster - concentrate light into small area of the sensor - increase aperture
Speedlower - refract light into bigger area - drop the aperture

Ok someone said its teleconverter. So you're right.

This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 10 2023, 05:45 PM

Really teleconverter just make the image worse so don't think about it. It's only useful if u want more tele reach. It never meant for fitting apsc lens circle onto FF.

If u go FF, just go FF lens. Apsc with apsc lens. Anything in between like speedbooster and such if u have zero clue how to use them, don't buy into them since there are many other issue if u use it.

Just do some research before buying. There are tons of utube video on this.

Yes, speed booster will increase approximately one stop of light.

I don't really understand your question. Why would you want to apply the 0.71x crop factor to the Tokina 11mm (Do you mean the Tokina 11-16mm ?) ? Seems like you don't understand how the speedbooster works. Speedbooster supposed to adapt bigger format lens (eg: FF lens) to smaller format body (apsc). If not, you will get a vignetting (which I think is what you meant when you said corner being blocked). The vignetting also occur even if you apply the same format lens (eg. apsc lens) to to same format (apsc body). If you want to use your tokina 11-16mm f2.8 with speedbooster, you have to use it on micro 4/3 bodies to avoid the vignetting.


For what I've seen on yourtube , if you want to use apsc lens on Full frame, to avoid the vignetting (corner being blocked) the wider is better, not the other way around. But then again, it is rather wasteful to use apsc lens on full frame body. Your full frame body will automatic apply the crop factor, which will reduce your megapixel. In the end, you will end up having a image quality worse than when it was on the apsc camera itself.

From your questions above, it kinda confirm my feeling that you are still new in photography/camera gears. Again, I suggest that Either you get some prime lenses or sell everything and move to full frame if you can afford to do so.

As for speedbooster, I would suggest that you forget about them. Since the camera body you are interested in is Canon RP, there is no speedbooster for it yet since canon are banning all 3rd parties lenses and adapter alike. Speedbooster are available for adapting Canon DSLR lenses to Sony/fuji/panasonic and olympus (Micro 4/3) camera. If you want to move to Sony, then it will be different story and different price point from the RP.

This post has been edited by Loseeker: Apr 11 2023, 03:42 PM

Yes I am still new

Seems like for Tokina/Tamron third party lens, Canon body will assume it's FF lense even though it's APSC lense. So it won't auto crop.

My problem will be to get a reverse of speedbooster. Instead of concentrated all lights into smaller area of sensor, I need it to diffuse the light to bigger area of FF sensor.

I'm not so sure about the part where Canon body assume third party lens as FF lens. But that's beside the point, since you can turn off the Auto crop in most (if not all) of the full frame camera.


Reverse speedbooster is a teleconverter. Teleconverter doesn't work on all lenses. Even if you do find the lens that do works on the teleconverter, then you will lose a stop of light using apsc lenses on full frame because the light are dispersed to cover a larger image circle. To compensate, the full frame body will need to increase 1 stop of iso which defeat the purpose of moving to full frame body. Not to mention the cost you need to pay for that teleconverter.

For someone who wanted to adapt apsc lenses on Full frame body, can I safely assume that you don't have budget for the full frame lenses? If my assumption is right again, my suggestion to you is, forget about the RP. Jump to full frame only if you also has the budget for the full frame lenses. For the time being, you might want to consider getting big aperture prime lenses to improve your night/low light photography.

This post has been edited by Loseeker: Apr 11 2023, 04:41 PM

Ok. But I really dream of full frame since I got my 1000D. Haha
Maybe I just continue to use my Canon 85mm f1.8 since it's the only full frame lense I got.

Since your hobby is night and also landscape, the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is already the best lens you have for your system. May be at this point, the thing you want to improve on is getting a tripod (if you haven't done so), learn how to shoot and process RAW files (again if you haven't done so). As you've noticed that yourself, canon RP is the recycled sensor of the 6d mark II, which has worse dynamic range than the Canon 80d. So, it defeat the purpose of going to FF for the better dynamic range. Canon released RP exactly for the purpose to lure newbie apsc users like yourself to full frame.


@vapanel I've just realized how many conversation (you've exchanged with trialgone) that i've missed only after I've replied. Trialgone has given you many sound advises that I would had said the same.

Many dreamed of full frame, me included. It used to be my budget that stopped me from venturing into the FF territory. But now, I do have enough budget to move up to full frame for all the bodies and lenses I want. But, I have struggled many months within myself (My mind against my heart). In the end, I simply cannot justify to spend all that money for the 1 stop of gain (in term of aperture and dynamic range) from apsc to FF. You didn't mention about the Canon 85 the last time I've asked you regarding your lens collection. 85 on your canon apsc is 136mm (FF equivalent) and it can be quite useful for some telephoto landscape shots (if that's your thing).

I want to make assumption again that, you don't even shoot RAW and process your image with raw conversation software such as Lightroom/capture one. If you do, you will see a huge upgrade interm of your image quality than any full frame camera can give you. If you don't improve your editing skills, you will get the same result, regardless of apsc or full frame and regret that you spent that money. Finally, I want to share with you a quote from a friend of mine which said " Don't let the gear control you". He said that to me when I was struggling to upgrade to full frame.

Believe me. Better change to FF and make your dream come true.

You never know what is gonna tommorow.

FF is not just F-Stop

It's about composition, bokeh, wider wide, at brag right 👍

Edited : yes, I am jpeg shooter. I heard Canon color science is better than Sony. Which FF camera you dream of.


This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 11 2023, 05:39 PM