Alu profile can do the frame. Full alu cabinet as in every single component is alu, no formica or melamine (chipboard cannot get wet) Top with quartz or whatever synth stone top as desired. Hang on rail like ikea metod rail with brackets.

This metod rail https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/metod-suspensi...nised-90271030/ will take care of all the weight if divided by 10pcs 2 inch screws/wall plug. UDL loading whole slab with sink barely few kg per wall plug. Can increase interval of mounts to the wall to maybe 12 or 15. x weight /12 or /15 is very little load per hole.

Materials wise all available even on shopee.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 8 2021, 08:32 PM

Thanks for your input

To clarify, your suggestion here implies that going with a concrete top with rebar is doable, and the brick wall should hold this structure well (with basin above and and cabinets beneath).

As for a thick counter top look, I’d be looking at fitting tiles or stone material at the side and front right?

Will get my constructor to obtain a precise measurement tmr

Unfortunately the space isn’t sufficient to fit a bathtub and a separate shower area. (Not a big bath tub user myself so that’s all good)
I’m definitely keen on getting this extra thick countertop floating vanity style going tho

This post has been edited by inmyownmind: Oct 8 2021, 09:37 PM

Yes. But talk to your contractor. Really depend from person to person. You and your 2 gf can even stand on the top once finish..

Do note there is minimum thickness of about >2.5 inches-ish as the reebar need to encast in cement. Very important to waterproof the slab before putting finishing layer (tiles, stone etc). If this step is skip, the cabinet will damp. For bottom of basin (water trap), you dont even need cover the bottom panel; just cabinet door for visual purpose.

If stone slab, waterproof the cement slab AND bottom facing of the stone.

If you intend to use tiles, bigger tiles will have less grout line but it is really depend your design and how messy you are in using basin. The table top depth and lenght should follow or adjust with tile size increment so less issue with workmanship (eg 2ft, 1 or 2x1.5ft, 2 or 3x1ft etc depth); not much choice and this will predetermine your basin size as well.

This post has been edited by chamelion: Oct 8 2021, 10:42 PM

Thanks for your input on this.
Will look into using full aluminium structures with a stone top as an alternative

Based on your intended design the best is to use L-Angle bracket c/w plywood backing as supporting frame for your stone.

On the thick stone surface, is just a fascia cover surface. Thick thickness is still as per normal range 18-25mm depending type of stone.

On concrete slab, not really practical for this kind of design due to one is fully cantilever. Chances of slanting is very high. Furthermore concrete itself is having much higher self weight.

Will there be a concern of plywood backing and high humidity bathroom area for the long term use? Since there’s suggestion of avoiding any wood material in the bathroom if possible. Aluminium backing instead of plywood possible?

So for the thick stone countertop surface, as long as there’s a cabinet frame then can mount the stone surface on the sides to create a thick look right?

If it is dry area. Just do cabinet with wall plug to wall, with whatever top finishes.

If it is wet then do metal bracket with whatever top finishes. Concrete top is also doable.

Actually if your contractor skill is limited then don't force it, you will end up regret it for the sub par work afterward.

https://prnt.sc/1vl03mx

What I did for my client. Marine ply cabinet with tiles finish hanging cabinet.

If you concerned on timber material.. I suggest you can have a steel structure as the carcass. since is using in the toilet, send for galvanising..