planning to upgrade my brake rotor to slotted + drilled.
mainly city drive, normally drive fast but not aggressive, soft on pedals and brakes.

been through online researched and here's what i know about slotted+drilled rotors:
1) brake pads wear faster. (but how fast? my cousin motorcycle 200cc is slotted rotor, 40k city driving brake pad still have around 30%)
2) drilled rotor will crack eventually if rotor too hot but doesn't affect much for city driving. (not really a concern for me, rarely hard braking)
3) braking is much more quiet. (is this true?)

appreciate all for the time and effort on replies !

Go for slotted. Avoid drill type as it will crack after a period of time.

mainly city drive, normally drive fast but not aggressive, soft on pedals and brakes.

Why not just upgrade your brake pads first?

Dont see any justification on upgrading to slot or drill rotors unless you just want Gaya

When you want to go higher performance, the most upgrade to slot rotors.

This post has been edited by littlefire: May 31 2021, 12:03 PM

Based on your usage, no reason why need use slotted or drilled rotor.

Only real advantage is it dissipate heat faster. Mostly related to racing, hard braking.

Most important is the type of steel used. Original has better composition of metal than some aftermarket one.

Most important is the type of steel used. Original has better composition of metal than some aftermarket one.

considering whether to upgrade the type and size of rotor, then only can pick the right size of pads and caliper.
if slotted / drilled rotor helps in braking distance, no harm in upgrading incase of emergency braking / minimizing accident damages.

yea.. i admit i fell in the "car mods" hole.
but why not if it helps braking distance

I can only see effectiveness of slotted/drilled rotor on well known brand. For those local one, forget about it. Instead, use bigger rotor and custom bracket are more efficient.

If you are just driving a normal sedan with no intention for spirited driving, slotted or drilled brake rotors is of no use to you. You have stated your drive would mainly be around the city @ stop and go, I really dont see a need for slotted or drilled disc rotors. Brake pads will even wear faster with these ''performance" rotor sets. The squeal from braking is usually caused by the dust your brake pad makes. So this will depend on the material used on your brake pads.

Unless you need better stopping power due to an upgraded/ uprated engine which equates to higher horsepower on your car, I would suggest you use back your standard brakes but maybe upgrade to a better brake pad for a little bit better braking.

Get a set of higher temp brake pads will give you better braking. Your caliper and brake pads are the same but change rotors. Wouldn’t help much, the diff would be very minimal. Swap a set of SS brake hose would do better than just a rotor swap.

I'm currently using slotted cross-drilled rotors on one of my daily cars which I sometimes use for touge runs.

There isn't really any improvements in braking performance compared to plainface rotors. Like other said, it's good if you always fade your brakes like in racetracks but otherwise there really isn't any upside to using it on the street. In fact, on my car, the brake pedals lost it's linearity after switching to x-drilled/slotted rotors.

On the downside, using slotted rotors might even introduce loud, deep humming and vibrations when slowing down from high speed, again, something you might not want on your daily street car.

Of course, it also depends on the brand and material of the rotor. But my 2 cents is, if it's braking performance you are after, maybe try better pads, fluids and steel braided brake lines first.

For just normal city drive, better upgrade to higher performance pads first such as Dixcel or Acre, that will give more stopping power than rotors. If you're going for more spirited/touge driving then only mod further to stainless brake hose, higher performance brake fluids (like dot 5.1 or high performance 4) and slotted rotors but never drilled ones. Drilled rotors can crack easier and actually gives no benefit whatsoever cuz it's just for show.

This post has been edited by 6UE5T: May 31 2021, 09:30 PM

1) From 20-50% faster wear rate, to double/triple 200-300% extra wear rate.
Depends on pads/rotors/how you brake/where you brake.

I've had my brake pads roasted in just one track day session from 60-80% left, or even brand new (but already run in a bit prior to the track day), on few occasions.
And all those occasions are blank plain faced rotors. Only my Iswara had x drilled and slotted however the NVH + pad wear (from Iswara experience, at least 40-70% extra wear) shaving my expensive EBC green and eventually ended up all the holes cracked (not one hole without crack), I've learned my lesson.
Yes, expensive AMG cars or M sports cars have cross drilled, but do you know how much those rotors cost? Some of those rotors one piece, not one pair, can cost up wards 5 digits, and those are not carbon discs. Carbon disc some of them one piece can buy a Myvi.
Materials very different.

2) crack = NVH and if serious, whole rotor shatter and you lose braking. Still think doesn't affect much? I've seen people just bang wall (or those very lucky) just go straight into gravel in Sepang because no brakes. And some of those, rotors gone to pieces.

3) no, extra noisy extra NVH.
Logic right? You got extra things shaving your brake pads and it is scrubbing on uneven surfaces and even holes? Logic bro, use that.

So no, 100% untrue.

Cars and bikes not same, no need compare.

1) Slotted tends to shave the brake pad material more as it meant to clean the surface. So logically...
2) Chances of cracking rotor, DRILLED > SLOTTED > FULL FACE
Yes, any rotor can crack. You gotta be damn hard on them. Meaning, you are going over that threshold where it will crack.
3) My exprience on my own car, none. But some other cars with aggresive pads tends to make more noise. While rotor still being factory standard.

Wanna upgrade your brakes? Always start with pads.
Find something with better initial bite and higher range of operating temps.
And find something that works well when is cold as well. (Sometimes people overlook this ie: ME )

actually can go for it. becos u only worry for crack.
it wont crack unless abuse.

lifespan kira ok one as brake pad u pick less expensive type

im using slotted , it.helps keep that initial bite always there

Top up one point - brake bias.

To me, if really wants to change, should go all out change all 4 wheels with the kit set properly calibrated/tested for the car. (in some case the kit set will keep the rear brake caliper, just switch brake pad and rotor, due to electronic parking brake).

Changing one piece at a time only for those with deep pocket and time, and willing do experiment.

Messing up with brake bias might make braking distance worst, and dangerous.

So changing brake pads on all 4 wheels, is a relatively effective and safe option. Of course provided it doesn't exceed the tire traction, otherwise won't improve braking distance also.

OT. A bit: only rich can change all/proper kits one shot.
Poor only can experiment and more often than not, wasting both time and money.

Rich/have money = more options.
That's why rich gets richer.

Sad vicious cycle.

Lol.... change one by one will eventually change all also mah, somemore some ended as bad combination.

Hahahaha, both are deep water.

Riches can buy car factory fitted with carbon ceramic brake. 😆

Oof

thats not how u go about it. u should look at the 3 components as a kit and do everything all in 1 go. has a lot to do with fitment (gotta make sure ur wheels also has the clearance for the upgraded brakes). if u only upgrade rotor now, u will be stuck with the stock size rotor and dimensions. caliper choices will most likely be limited to just 1 - ur original (unless ur car has a massive aftermarket for PnP caliper for the stock rotor, which i doubt. coz even Hondas has minimal aftermarket for this)

it doesnt help in braking distance. thats what people tend to get confused about. even if it does, its likely negligible.

slotted and drilled rotors are more for removal and dispersion of the gas build up during HARD USE. not town use. and that oso, this gas build up is more to asbestos based brake pads.....and asbestos based brake pads no longer exists these days.

supposedly better for heat management as well but then again... especially with cross drilled rotors, you have lesser surface area for heat dissipation...so this part cant say much


as many have said, for ur use and also ur stated priorities. stick to original and just upgrade the pads. the pads will give u MUCH more benefit than a rotor change. and depending on the pad, it can be cheaper than the rotor change but still give u MUCH better braking than the rotor ever will. u can install a supercar brake system in ur car with a massive cross drilled and slotted rotor and gajillion pot caliper, but if u pair that with lousy pads, ull still get lousy braking. the pad upgrade will help more in lowering braking distance than the rotor.

ive had stock brakes upgraded to custom slotted rotors.... no diff. i then upgraded the caliper from single pot to a custom 4pot kit....not much difference... the absolute biggest change ive ever had was when i was on single pot, and upgraded to better brake pads. when i went 4pot i used the same pads as well and seriously, not much diff in terms of bite even on track.



now, if the actual real reason ur interested in slotted n cross drilled is for the looks. just go for it... if thats the case then be honest to urself.....ur just here to try n justify ur purchase. which as u can see from the posts, is not really justifiable based on ur stated priorities and usage. but if looks is what ur after, no need to justify and just go get it.

Sadly many mod their car parts without weighing the safety aspects. Especially fake BBK. If wanna go for both looks and performance, just go for the brembo refurbished/recond 18z or f50. Pricey? Yes, but definitely better than a set of fakes from Thai, Taiwan or even China.

Upgrade your brake pads ( the easiest and quickest way to feel improvement i.e. Bendix Metal King Titanium etc ), your brake fluids and steel braided hose.

If you can afford to combine those 3 package you will see quite a lot of improvement for city drive.

You do not need to go further.

Actually very well said on just the brake pads alone.
I drive a pickup truck with dinner plate discs (all standard factory), pads also have eco range and better compound ones. The elcheapo ones only produce lots of dust and doesn't stop well.

Getting the right pads (actually right now im running MK Kashiyama https://www.mk-kashiyama.com/en some less famous brand pads) and consistent brake fluid changes every 2-3years work well for me. I leave the pad selection to my regular mechanic. He knows my preference- I like them grippy (for normal street use), I just leave it to him and he kautim for me; as I remember definitely not "commonly heard of" TRx or Bendxx brands

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jun 7 2021, 04:10 AM

What brake pads are you using now? Choosing the right pads can improve your braking without affecting cold/initial bite of the braking system. Not necessary to get higher temp or sports/race pads as some have below par cold bite.

hi sifus

came across these 2 rotor at shopee

plain to upgrade to my Perodua

which is better

Neither. Get the trw xps instead and pair with their dtec ceramic brake pads.

for cosmetic wise any will do, for better braking, a good brake pad + steelbraided brakehose.
i changed my brake pads and hose, the effect is superb.

Super sweet spot combo:

Good brake pads + steel braided brake hose + good set of tyres

Decent recipe for a competent braking performance

None, don't buy those drilled ones. Get the TRW XPS slotted if you need to replace, otherwise just leave it stock.