Jun 3 2021, 01:23 PM
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 1 2021, 11:38 AM)
1) From 20-50% faster wear rate, to double/triple 200-300% extra wear rate.
Depends on pads/rotors/how you brake/where you brake.
2) crack = NVH and if serious, whole rotor shatter and you lose braking. Still think doesn't affect much? I've seen people just bang wall (or those very lucky) just go straight into gravel in Sepang because no brakes. And some of those, rotors gone to pieces.
3) no, extra noisy extra NVH.
Logic right? You got extra things shaving your brake pads and it is scrubbing on uneven surfaces and even holes? Logic bro, use that.
So no, 100% untrue.
Cars and bikes not same, no need compare.
Top up one point - brake bias. Depends on pads/rotors/how you brake/where you brake.
2) crack = NVH and if serious, whole rotor shatter and you lose braking. Still think doesn't affect much? I've seen people just bang wall (or those very lucky) just go straight into gravel in Sepang because no brakes. And some of those, rotors gone to pieces.
3) no, extra noisy extra NVH.
Logic right? You got extra things shaving your brake pads and it is scrubbing on uneven surfaces and even holes? Logic bro, use that.
So no, 100% untrue.
Cars and bikes not same, no need compare.
To me, if really wants to change, should go all out change all 4 wheels with the kit set properly calibrated/tested for the car. (in some case the kit set will keep the rear brake caliper, just switch brake pad and rotor, due to electronic parking brake).
Changing one piece at a time only for those with deep pocket and time, and willing do experiment.
Messing up with brake bias might make braking distance worst, and dangerous.
So changing brake pads on all 4 wheels, is a relatively effective and safe option. Of course provided it doesn't exceed the tire traction, otherwise won't improve braking distance also.
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