You can't use AIO GPU kit on that GPU because it doesn't have middle plate to help cool the VRM & the memory
Sticking heatsinks on the VRM & the memory is a PITA as they will definitely fall off after some time

You need to go for a full blown GPU waterblock and as such, it's better if you cool the CPU with liquid cooling as well
And don't expect for these to be cheap. At least RM1K for the GPU waterblock, CPU waterblock, fittings, pumps, 2 radiators, tubes & reservoir

You can reduce maybe around RM400 (by removing the CPU waterblock and 1 radiator) if you don't watercool the CPU but to me it's kind of a waste

What case are you using by the way?

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Feb 22 2021, 12:24 PM

ASUSmy doesn't allow their users to remove the heatsink and replace it with waterblock
They will void the warranty for that. If you haven't bought it yet, you might want to look for EVGA, Zotac, Gigabyte or MSI
Avoid XL5. It makes my custom loop cloudy just after 1 month
Get EK CryoFuel instead
Dump these 2 and get the BYKSKI RC series radiator & Bykski & Barrow reservoir + pump instead
You'll spend less money for the same performance with Bykski/Barrow products
Tubing has nothing to do with heat dissipation. Where did you get this false information?
Also nonsense. I've been using EK Cryofuel on PETG tubes for several years now, no issues whatsoever
Also, if this is the first time you're doing a custom loop, you might want to go with PETG instead of Acrylic
Acrylic may look nice but it's harder to bend and a lot of mistakes can happen during bending. Acrylic is also prone to shatter & cracks
Are you talking about the bending tools? I don't use any
I only use the heat gun & my own hands to bend the tubes
To me, using my own hands & eyes provides much better results compared to using those bending tools

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Feb 22 2021, 02:34 PM

Here: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4987832
You can ask ASUSmy themselves. That's the response I get when I PM them in Facebook
Shopee international shipping. You can buy from this seller. I always buy from him
https://shopee.com.my/shop/174219658/

The radiator I'm talking about:
https://shopee.com.my/Bykski-CR-RD360RC-TN-...9658.7149007432
https://shopee.com.my/Bykski-CR-RD360RC-TK-...9658.5151104413

Differences between the 2 radiators: 1 is 30MM and the other one is 40MM

EK-Cryofuel:
https://shopee.com.my/-EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-100...7182.1886522714
https://shopee.com.my/-EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-Sol...7182.1623017228
https://shopee.com.my/-EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-Mys...7182.4958810542

It might take some time for you to master the skills of bending using your own hands & coordinating with your own eyes
So make sure you buy tons of PETG tube because you will make a lot of mistakes while learning how to bend correctly

My first time doing watercooling, I've wasted around 2.5 meters of PETG tube (5 x 50CM tube) before I finally get the measurements I wanted
And for PETG tube, just buy anything that's available in Shopee, for PETG tube you don't even need to buy from Bykski or Barrow

PETG tubes are available for as low as RM3.35 per tube in Shopee
https://shopee.com.my/Freeplus.-PETG-10x14m...9207.7070896340

That silicone tube is definitely required to avoid the tubes from deforming while heating / bending
It's a good learning experience to build it on your own, but you also have to buy the heat gun & the silicone tube as well

Even expert might make mistakes, I myself still make mistake in my latest project LOL. Will upload some pics later on my latest WC build

My latest WC build. Inside Metallic Gear Neo Qube
Just some small changes to my home server



And my previous builds:

By the way, you don't have to spend RM180 for the Noctua fans, just buy the Arctic P12 PWM PST CO (dual ball bearing goodies)
The Arctic P12 PWM PST CO performs at the same level and at certain times better than the Noctua NF-A12x25 as per the YouTube review below

The only downside of the Arctic P12 PWM PST CO is that you can only get it from China through Taobao if you want to buy them RM48 per unit
Shopee pricing for the P12 PWM PST CO is ridiculous at RM72 per unit

Noctua NF-A12x25 RM180 x 12 units: RM2160
Arctic P12 PWM PST CO RM48 x 12 units: RM576

Taobao link: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10....id=583516030142

Very important: Only the CO model uses dual ball bearing. The non CO is using FDB bearing so make sure you buy the CO model



This post has been edited by sHawTY: Feb 22 2021, 09:15 PM

All of my loops is using 14MM. Never 12MM nor 16MM

1. State your full PC hardware specs including what casing you are using
2. Do you only want to cool the GPU or the CPU as well?
3. Are you looking for soft tube or hard tube?
4. Do you have RM2K? Yes, custom loop is not cheap

State the brand & exact model of your RTX 2080
Also, would be better if you can provide some photos of the internal of your case

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 14 2022, 10:41 AM

GPU waterblock, radiator & pump+reservoir already going to cost you RM700 as per the screenshot below
This doesn't include fittings, tubes, coolant, and installation charges

PS: No, you can't salvage your AIO parts to be used with this setup. Your AIO uses aluminium radiator which is going to corrode the Bykski GPU waterblock. Copper & Aluminium doesn't mix together

The same amount of money that you put into that EISwolf setup would be the same amount with your very own custom loop if you assemble yourself

That's the wrong waterblock
I believe your RTX 2080 uses NVIDIA reference PCB so you should stick with the waterblock I recommended

This is what your GPU PCB looks right? (excuse some small capacitor/diodes placements)

Yup, that is the Nvidia reference PCB
Buy the one I suggested. Not what the seller suggested to you

https://www.bykski.us/collections/gpu-block...r-n-rtx2080ti-x



This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 17 2022, 06:44 PM

If I were you, I'd sell both of the AIOs then get CPU waterblock and another 360MM radiator
Just another RM287.85

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 17 2022, 10:57 PM

Any reason why you're mixing the fitting colors?

Also, you can save a lot of money by buying generic fittings. No need to buy branded fittings
I've used generic fittings on my home server and no leaks since December 2020

Bykski fittings & tube price: RM189.45
Generic fittings & tube price: RM86.86

RM189.45 - RM86.86 = RM102.59



This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 21 2022, 11:36 PM

You tagged the wrong person?

Your temperature is indeed high
My 2080 Ti only runs at 48°C max on full load. And that's without airconditioner
If I turn on the airconditioner, it can go to as low as 38°C on full load while gaming. Airconditioner set to run at 16°C LOL

I think there are 2 possibilities that might cause your issue
1. Yes, you definitely screwed up the fan installation, you can't have all fans inside the case to be exhaust only. You need intake fans too. You don't have to install extra 3 fans on the side, just convert the bottom fans to intake fans
2. Yeah, you probably screwed up the thermal paste application, but it's quite easy to identify this. Since you're using soft tube, just unscrew the waterblock then see if the thermal paste spread evenly on the GPU die

By the way, what coolant are you using in that loop? I hope you're not using car coolant. That stuff will screw up your liquid cooling system