No need to flush the coolant lah, you're using soft tubing, just unplug the GPU and carefully remove the wateblock without unplugging any tubes
Even rotating the fans won't require any draining

Kalau hard tube mmg die-die no choice but to drain the system first LOL

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 12 2022, 09:43 PM

Hmm, the GPU thermal paste spreads fine
So it's definitely the fans layout then
Just remember to apply a new layer of themal paste

Owh and by the way, try to tilt your case left, right, front and back to make all the bubbles inside the radiator & the waterblock go into the reservoir. Make sure to run the pump at full sppeed while you do the tilting
Bubbles can also slightly raise the temperature but shouldnt be that high

My 2080 Ti should run hotter than your 2080 so something is definitely not right

It's always advisable to reapply a new layer of themal paste after removing the waterblock, same thing for aircooling heatsink as well

Well, it's cooler than before, but not good enough
The other stuff that I can think off that may cause your RTX 2080 to run hotter than my 2080 Ti are:
1. The coolant
2. The fan
3. The thermal paste
4. Fan filter

The coolant:
The Bykski coolant is probably not good enough in absorbing the heat from the waterblock and transferring it to the radiator
Hence why I only stick with EKWB CryoFuel coolant
Had bad experience with Corsair HL5 & Thermaltake C1000
Both of them cause the loop to turn muddy in less than a month
Had to try them out because EKWB CryoFuel was out of stock and there's only 1 seller in Malaysia who sells them at reasonable price
Waited for several months for the EKWB CryoFuel to be restocked during the MCO era hence why I decided to try those 2 coolants
Oh and I only use the clear transparent coolant, no colors

The fan:
In the market there are 2 types of fan. Airflow fan & Static Pressure fans
Airflow fans are to get air to move in and out of the case without any heatsink/radiator behind or in front of the fans
Static Pressure fans are made to be used on radiator & heatsink
I'm using Arctic P12 PWM PST CO. It's one of the cheapest high static pressure fan with dual ball bearings
What fan are you using?

The thermal paste:
The best thermal paste are the ones with high conductivity
Currently I'm using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Fan filter
Are you using the top fan filter on the top of your O11? If yes, just remove it
You only need to use fan filter on intake, not exhaust

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 13 2022, 07:29 AM

Just switch to EKWB CryoFuel. The premix 1L is already pre-mixed for you, no need to campur campur anymore
Shopee Link: https://shopee.com.my/product/59277182/1886522714
That's the only seller in Malaysia that sells EKWB CryoFuel Premix at a reasonable price
Remember to flush the whole system with lots and lots of distilled water before refilling the system with new coolant
QF120 is an airflow fan, not a static pressure fan
Airflow fan is only good to blow in & out of the case, it's not strong enough to blow air through dense fins in radiators / heatsinks

If you're going to buy the Arctic P12, I'd suggest you buy directly from Taobao
Their price is the cheapest on the
How old is your MX-2? I mean when did you buy it? IINM, thermal paste has a shelf-life. Even when it sits in the tube unused, it will still lose some of it's integrity. Even more if you leave the tube in direct sunlight
You can re-install the intake filter, that's very important to block dust from coming into the case
You need to remove the exhaust filter. Case exhaust filter is really unnecessary

It's up to you bro whichever fans you decide. I'm just telling you what I know
For me, I'll stick with whichever has the highest static pressure at the lowest speed & at the lowest price

P12 is known in YouTube as one of the best competitor to Noctua NF-A12 but at a 1/4 of the price
There are tons of YouTubers recommending it

Look it up in YouTube

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 13 2022, 10:05 PM

No

How much are they selling the CO?

CO uses dual ball bearings which will make the fan last a lot longer than sleeve bearing or any other bearings out there
Idealtech?
For thermal pads, I just follow the same thickness of the original thermal pad from the stock heatsink

Hopefully you left the original thermal pads at their original location on the stock heatsink so you'll know which thermal pads go where
To make it simpler, just reuse the original thermal pads if it's still clean. I'm doing that and it's still working fine until today

If you're talking about the bottom one, that's for 2080 Ti
Your 2080 probably uses the same heatsink for 2080 Ti
Since 2080 doesn't have memory on the bottom, there are no thermal pads that have been installed on your stock heatsink

Below is an image for 2080 Ti reference PCB

Much better
Same temps when you were using the ID-Cooling AIO eh?

Ok la tu. Remember to watch the coolant level in the tank, it's normal for the coolant to evaporate after some time

Yep. Because you were using colored coolants before
You need to flush the system with lots and lots of distilled water

You can either take everything apart to rinse everything off. Or fill the reservoir with distilled water, let the system run with it for 15 minutes, then drain
Repeat the same steps several times until you see all the colored coolants is completely gone from the waterblock

No pain, no gain

I for one hate seeing my 2080 Ti running at 85°C on full load when using air-cooling
Now with liquid cooling, my 2080 Ti maxes out at only 48°C ~ 52°C depending on the weather