Hi guys,

I recently pre-ordered RTX 3800 Gigabyte Gaming OC.

Based on research, gigabyte is known for thermal throttle because of bad thermal pads in the GPU.

So i'm not the brightest in watercooling. I'm looking for advice or service for the following.

1 - Thermal pads replacement for GPU

2 - I'm looking to OC the GPU, i'm planning to get waterblock for the GPU. But i've 20% knowledge about watercooling.
I'm trying to watch youtube videos and checking online.

Can someone recommend me a good kit with pump, valve, connector and tubes without cpu/gpu waterblock.
Preferably AIO.

Regards,

You can't use AIO GPU kit on that GPU because it doesn't have middle plate to help cool the VRM & the memory
Sticking heatsinks on the VRM & the memory is a PITA as they will definitely fall off after some time

You need to go for a full blown GPU waterblock and as such, it's better if you cool the CPU with liquid cooling as well
And don't expect for these to be cheap. At least RM1K for the GPU waterblock, CPU waterblock, fittings, pumps, 2 radiators, tubes & reservoir

You can reduce maybe around RM400 (by removing the CPU waterblock and 1 radiator) if you don't watercool the CPU but to me it's kind of a waste

What case are you using by the way?

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Feb 22 2021, 12:24 PM

Hi Shawty,

Currently i'm using Zeal casing from Aftershock, similar to Antec P120.
I changed the GPU from 2x Gigabyte Gaming OC to the following due to gigabyte bad thermal pads :-

ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 3080 OC 10GB
GIGABYTE AORUS XTREME RTX 3080 10GB

After doing research, i'm planning to do a custom waterloop with the following :-

Bykski Waterblock for ASUS ROG STRIX
Bykski Waterblock for GIGABYTE AORUS EXTREME
Barrow Fittings
2x Corsair XL5 performance coolant ( each CPU has two radiator, inlet and outlet )
4x Corsair X7 radiator 360mm ( Each cpu , top and front radiator )
2x Corsair Hydro X series pump
12x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM 120mm ( 3 static pressure fan to pull for each radiator )
Thermal Kryonaut for the thermal.
Fujipoly Ultra Extreme XR-M Thermal Pad 17w/mk for the VRAM/VRM

As for tubing, i'm still contemplating whether to go with PETG or PMMA.
PMMA is stronger and have good heat dissipation compared to PETG , and PETG only some coolant are supported.

I don't actually have the tools for PMMA , what are needed for acrylic/PMMA build?

This post has been edited by exorthexquas: Feb 22 2021, 02:13 PM

ASUSmy doesn't allow their users to remove the heatsink and replace it with waterblock
They will void the warranty for that. If you haven't bought it yet, you might want to look for EVGA, Zotac, Gigabyte or MSI
Avoid XL5. It makes my custom loop cloudy just after 1 month
Get EK CryoFuel instead
Dump these 2 and get the BYKSKI RC series radiator & Bykski & Barrow reservoir + pump instead
You'll spend less money for the same performance with Bykski/Barrow products
Tubing has nothing to do with heat dissipation. Where did you get this false information?
Also nonsense. I've been using EK Cryofuel on PETG tubes for several years now, no issues whatsoever
Also, if this is the first time you're doing a custom loop, you might want to go with PETG instead of Acrylic
Acrylic may look nice but it's harder to bend and a lot of mistakes can happen during bending. Acrylic is also prone to shatter & cracks
Are you talking about the bending tools? I don't use any
I only use the heat gun & my own hands to bend the tubes
To me, using my own hands & eyes provides much better results compared to using those bending tools

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Feb 22 2021, 02:34 PM

But ROG i checked can change to waterblock:
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?1...ds-and-warranty

Bykski radiator or alphacool nemesis ice gtr 380?

Do you know where to purchase bykski radiator? I can't seem to find one in Malaysia CMS.

for gigabyte extreme 3080 its difficult to find the waterblock .
So rog is a big no ?

In that case, ill stick to PETG and get my own heat gun

This post has been edited by exorthexquas: Feb 22 2021, 02:46 PM

Here: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4987832
You can ask ASUSmy themselves. That's the response I get when I PM them in Facebook
Shopee international shipping. You can buy from this seller. I always buy from him
https://shopee.com.my/shop/174219658/

The radiator I'm talking about:
https://shopee.com.my/Bykski-CR-RD360RC-TN-...9658.7149007432
https://shopee.com.my/Bykski-CR-RD360RC-TK-...9658.5151104413

Differences between the 2 radiators: 1 is 30MM and the other one is 40MM

EK-Cryofuel:
https://shopee.com.my/-EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-100...7182.1886522714
https://shopee.com.my/-EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-Sol...7182.1623017228
https://shopee.com.my/-EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-Mys...7182.4958810542

It might take some time for you to master the skills of bending using your own hands & coordinating with your own eyes
So make sure you buy tons of PETG tube because you will make a lot of mistakes while learning how to bend correctly

My first time doing watercooling, I've wasted around 2.5 meters of PETG tube (5 x 50CM tube) before I finally get the measurements I wanted
And for PETG tube, just buy anything that's available in Shopee, for PETG tube you don't even need to buy from Bykski or Barrow

PETG tubes are available for as low as RM3.35 per tube in Shopee
https://shopee.com.my/Freeplus.-PETG-10x14m...9207.7070896340

I see, i'm planning to also get the silicon bending pipe
https://shopee.com.my/EN-8-10-12mm-ID-Hard-...OxoCt40QAvD_BwE

This way it might help me for bending it. I'm still having second thought of building it by myself or let a pro to build for me with the item i've and pay them for the workmanship.

This post has been edited by exorthexquas: Feb 22 2021, 04:49 PM

That silicone tube is definitely required to avoid the tubes from deforming while heating / bending
It's a good learning experience to build it on your own, but you also have to buy the heat gun & the silicone tube as well

Even expert might make mistakes, I myself still make mistake in my latest project LOL. Will upload some pics later on my latest WC build

Sure that will be helpful for newbies like me.

My latest WC build. Inside Metallic Gear Neo Qube
Just some small changes to my home server



And my previous builds:

By the way, you don't have to spend RM180 for the Noctua fans, just buy the Arctic P12 PWM PST CO (dual ball bearing goodies)
The Arctic P12 PWM PST CO performs at the same level and at certain times better than the Noctua NF-A12x25 as per the YouTube review below

The only downside of the Arctic P12 PWM PST CO is that you can only get it from China through Taobao if you want to buy them RM48 per unit
Shopee pricing for the P12 PWM PST CO is ridiculous at RM72 per unit

Noctua NF-A12x25 RM180 x 12 units: RM2160
Arctic P12 PWM PST CO RM48 x 12 units: RM576

Taobao link: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10....id=583516030142

Very important: Only the CO model uses dual ball bearing. The non CO is using FDB bearing so make sure you buy the CO model



This post has been edited by sHawTY: Feb 22 2021, 09:15 PM

ooo, noted on it. Will explore on it.

You are using 12mm or 14mm tubing?

All of my loops is using 14MM. Never 12MM nor 16MM

Tumpang thread..

Can someone help me do water block cooling on my rtx 2080? I dont have any expertise on this matter..

1. State your full PC hardware specs including what casing you are using
2. Do you only want to cool the GPU or the CPU as well?
3. Are you looking for soft tube or hard tube?
4. Do you have RM2K? Yes, custom loop is not cheap

1. Lian-Li 011 Dynamic white case. normal spec. i7-10kf / 16gb / rtx 2080
2. only gpu cooling. i7 i got the 360mm aio from cooler master.
3. currently gpu cooling using ID-cooling 240 VGA cooler.
4. no i dont have 2k.

currently the gpu cooler the pump got noise, like gurgling. maybe the coolant evaporated idk. its been almost 11 months since installation.
im thinking of :-
1. DIY topup the coolant.
2. buy a new ID-cooling 240 vga cooler. links are here ID-Cooling Iceflow
3. installing a 'proper' GPU waterblock with the pumps and such, which i dont have any idea at all, pricing, installation, maintenance etc.

the temp while using the 3rd party GPU AIO is somewhat around 50-60c while gaming, idle around 30-35c.
default GPU twin fan is 45-50c while idling, 70-80c while gaming.

cheers

State the brand & exact model of your RTX 2080
Also, would be better if you can provide some photos of the internal of your case

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 14 2022, 10:41 AM

Zotac twin fan RTX 2080

This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Mar 14 2022, 10:42 AM

GPU waterblock, radiator & pump+reservoir already going to cost you RM700 as per the screenshot below
This doesn't include fittings, tubes, coolant, and installation charges

PS: No, you can't salvage your AIO parts to be used with this setup. Your AIO uses aluminium radiator which is going to corrode the Bykski GPU waterblock. Copper & Aluminium doesn't mix together

thanks! currently im thinking to use your choice.

i just found out about this product :-

Alphacool Eiswolf


how about this? i really appreciate your help!

This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Mar 14 2022, 11:20 AM

The same amount of money that you put into that EISwolf setup would be the same amount with your very own custom loop if you assemble yourself

yes, this is what im thinking now,

plus the ability to do DIY, maintenance and abundance of parts is a bonus too. RM1.2k for an AIO is too much for me now.

now like u said, need to check the other 'minor' costs for pipes, fittings etc.

im looking forward to this.

This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Mar 14 2022, 11:38 AM

i finally managed to list down these

this is based on your recommendation



This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Mar 17 2022, 04:25 PM

That's the wrong waterblock
I believe your RTX 2080 uses NVIDIA reference PCB so you should stick with the waterblock I recommended

This is what your GPU PCB looks right? (excuse some small capacitor/diodes placements)

i have consulted with the shopee seller, two sellers suggested this..





i try to upload my PCB later. image too big.

here is my pcb



This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Mar 17 2022, 05:48 PM

Yup, that is the Nvidia reference PCB
Buy the one I suggested. Not what the seller suggested to you

https://www.bykski.us/collections/gpu-block...r-n-rtx2080ti-x



This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 17 2022, 06:44 PM

ok i buy this one

If I were you, I'd sell both of the AIOs then get CPU waterblock and another 360MM radiator
Just another RM287.85

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 17 2022, 10:57 PM

Hi, i know right, but i cant spend much more than this for now.

Maybe next year or until the cm aio kaput

finalizing buy.
seller willing to match pricing from other seller

Any reason why you're mixing the fitting colors?

Also, you can save a lot of money by buying generic fittings. No need to buy branded fittings
I've used generic fittings on my home server and no leaks since December 2020

Bykski fittings & tube price: RM189.45
Generic fittings & tube price: RM86.86

RM189.45 - RM86.86 = RM102.59



This post has been edited by sHawTY: Mar 21 2022, 11:36 PM

ah..i forgot.supposed to take grey.i let seller know...

noted on that..its ok i just buy these from the seller.he helped quite a lot and reduced pricing a lot

How is your setup going to be like? drain valve is good but at which angle?

You tagged the wrong person?

haha my bad bro

the item arrived and i installed it..somewhat.
forgot the pump bracket - so i cable tie it first.

the temperature is high, not what i've expected.

maybe

-i put the 360mm radiator bottom,3 fans blow out - i can switch those to intake.
-no intake fans (for now) i can install 3 fan at the side to be intake.
- i f-ed up the thermal pads / paste on the GPU block.

image below after one round of PUBG


GPU


Reservoir + Pump

Your temperature is indeed high
My 2080 Ti only runs at 48°C max on full load. And that's without airconditioner
If I turn on the airconditioner, it can go to as low as 38°C on full load while gaming. Airconditioner set to run at 16°C LOL

I think there are 2 possibilities that might cause your issue
1. Yes, you definitely screwed up the fan installation, you can't have all fans inside the case to be exhaust only. You need intake fans too. You don't have to install extra 3 fans on the side, just convert the bottom fans to intake fans
2. Yeah, you probably screwed up the thermal paste application, but it's quite easy to identify this. Since you're using soft tube, just unscrew the waterblock then see if the thermal paste spread evenly on the GPU die

By the way, what coolant are you using in that loop? I hope you're not using car coolant. That stuff will screw up your liquid cooling system

ok i will flush the coolant and see 1 and 2
im using the 150ml bykski fury green color. now left 50ml idk what to do with it

No need to flush the coolant lah, you're using soft tubing, just unplug the GPU and carefully remove the wateblock without unplugging any tubes
Even rotating the fans won't require any draining

Kalau hard tube mmg die-die no choice but to drain the system first LOL

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 12 2022, 09:43 PM

Wtf...u r right

I ady flush them lmao.still can recycle the coolant right haha.heres the image

One of the vram has a different thermal pad, but same2 thickness.

Too add, i use the x method.



This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Apr 12 2022, 10:27 PM

Hmm, the GPU thermal paste spreads fine
So it's definitely the fans layout then
Just remember to apply a new layer of themal paste

Owh and by the way, try to tilt your case left, right, front and back to make all the bubbles inside the radiator & the waterblock go into the reservoir. Make sure to run the pump at full sppeed while you do the tilting
Bubbles can also slightly raise the temperature but shouldnt be that high

My 2080 Ti should run hotter than your 2080 so something is definitely not right

Need to reapply thermal paste? Oh no i just got a very little leftover...

I will run the pump at full speed..using jumper clip

It's always advisable to reapply a new layer of themal paste after removing the waterblock, same thing for aircooling heatsink as well

hmmm..the thermal issue still persist..



i give up laa

Well, it's cooler than before, but not good enough
The other stuff that I can think off that may cause your RTX 2080 to run hotter than my 2080 Ti are:
1. The coolant
2. The fan
3. The thermal paste
4. Fan filter

The coolant:
The Bykski coolant is probably not good enough in absorbing the heat from the waterblock and transferring it to the radiator
Hence why I only stick with EKWB CryoFuel coolant
Had bad experience with Corsair HL5 & Thermaltake C1000
Both of them cause the loop to turn muddy in less than a month
Had to try them out because EKWB CryoFuel was out of stock and there's only 1 seller in Malaysia who sells them at reasonable price
Waited for several months for the EKWB CryoFuel to be restocked during the MCO era hence why I decided to try those 2 coolants
Oh and I only use the clear transparent coolant, no colors

The fan:
In the market there are 2 types of fan. Airflow fan & Static Pressure fans
Airflow fans are to get air to move in and out of the case without any heatsink/radiator behind or in front of the fans
Static Pressure fans are made to be used on radiator & heatsink
I'm using Arctic P12 PWM PST CO. It's one of the cheapest high static pressure fan with dual ball bearings
What fan are you using?

The thermal paste:
The best thermal paste are the ones with high conductivity
Currently I'm using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Fan filter
Are you using the top fan filter on the top of your O11? If yes, just remove it
You only need to use fan filter on intake, not exhaust

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 13 2022, 07:29 AM

1. Coolant - i will take a look at the cryofuel. For now maybe my water to coolant ratio is out..maybe..
2. For the 360mm radiator intake, 3x cryorig QF120. I missed out this static pressure thingy.
3. Am using Arctic MX-2 thermal paste.
4. Oh yea la.shall remove it later. Intake, there is no dust filter for now.

Just switch to EKWB CryoFuel. The premix 1L is already pre-mixed for you, no need to campur campur anymore
Shopee Link: https://shopee.com.my/product/59277182/1886522714
That's the only seller in Malaysia that sells EKWB CryoFuel Premix at a reasonable price
Remember to flush the whole system with lots and lots of distilled water before refilling the system with new coolant
QF120 is an airflow fan, not a static pressure fan
Airflow fan is only good to blow in & out of the case, it's not strong enough to blow air through dense fins in radiators / heatsinks

If you're going to buy the Arctic P12, I'd suggest you buy directly from Taobao
Their price is the cheapest on the
How old is your MX-2? I mean when did you buy it? IINM, thermal paste has a shelf-life. Even when it sits in the tube unused, it will still lose some of it's integrity. Even more if you leave the tube in direct sunlight
You can re-install the intake filter, that's very important to block dust from coming into the case
You need to remove the exhaust filter. Case exhaust filter is really unnecessary

OK. Dotatech is near my house. i can just buy directly.



OK.



i got the QF120 Performance. i thought this was a static pressure fan..oh noes.



Reliable? i have not bought anything from Taobao yet..only lazada/shopee..



bought it on 17/03/2021.



OK noted..

This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Apr 13 2022, 03:57 PM

the cheapest Arctic P12 PWM PST i found on shopee is RM40/piece.

however i found this too

# TECWARE Omni Fans Series - [P12/P14] High Static Pressure ARGB Fans Pack # [BLACK/WHITE] RM78 per 3-piece pack
1.88H20

Arctic P12 is 2.2H20

It's up to you bro whichever fans you decide. I'm just telling you what I know
For me, I'll stick with whichever has the highest static pressure at the lowest speed & at the lowest price

P12 is known in YouTube as one of the best competitor to Noctua NF-A12 but at a 1/4 of the price
There are tons of YouTubers recommending it

Look it up in YouTube

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 13 2022, 10:05 PM

just want to check.
the screw mounting for the GPU Block, theres two type. one with the spring tension, another one is slim half thread.
i used all the screw with spring tension. am i wrong?

No

i go viewnet lowyat later buy 3x arctic p12..ok la RM36 PWM.

theres PWM PST, PWM PST CO..lol
i think PWM enough

How much are they selling the CO?

they dont sell..
got seller sell CO RM52 per piece. CO good ke?

i asked idealtech guy, he said my temperature normal.

Another thing i should explore is thermal pad thickness, they gave 1.5mm pad. I can try 0.5mm pad which i got..or maybe 1.0mm pad

CO uses dual ball bearings which will make the fan last a lot longer than sleeve bearing or any other bearings out there
Idealtech?
For thermal pads, I just follow the same thickness of the original thermal pad from the stock heatsink

oh maybe i just stick to PWM..im not going to run 24/7..

why you laugh lol

ok..time to dig old box later

Hopefully you left the original thermal pads at their original location on the stock heatsink so you'll know which thermal pads go where
To make it simpler, just reuse the original thermal pads if it's still clean. I'm doing that and it's still working fine until today

Yes i still kept those on the stock cooler on the original location.but ibhave nit put it in a plastic bag though..just campak it back into the box

Later come back home i search again.

mind the dust, after i take it off, straight put to box.

by the way, i notice the thermal pads got two thickness.

the right - thick 1.5 mm
the grey long one - 1.0mm
the top and left - 1.0 mm
the empty slot - the thermal gone..duno the size

bykski stock thermal - 1.0 mm

If you're talking about the bottom one, that's for 2080 Ti
Your 2080 probably uses the same heatsink for 2080 Ti
Since 2080 doesn't have memory on the bottom, there are no thermal pads that have been installed on your stock heatsink

Below is an image for 2080 Ti reference PCB

yes, i mean on the LR22 row chips..i think its 1.0mm

This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Apr 14 2022, 05:19 PM

bro,

i found this kind of manual for this block?
from this website https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920576854.html

it looks like i dont have to place thermal pads on the LR22 thing. make sense because i dont find any thermal pads on the stock cooler. i thought i disposed it.

here's the picture.



This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Apr 15 2022, 12:28 PM

Generally one wouldn't want to place thermal pads on the caps unless thermally necessary (which it is not on most modern cards).

The cooler they get (ambient cooling) the more noisy your card will be.


But a side note. Careful with Bykski manuals.
Every time I get one of their blocks and take a look I see wrong screws, wrong placement of spacers, silly spacer thicknesses,...
Wouldn't be surprised to find out quite a few ppl knock some small components off their cards following all these.

Update,

after removing the thermal pads on the LR22
and add 0.5mm thermal pad (total 1.5mm) on the chips column beside the LR22

i got max 60c load.
idle load around 30c.

guess this is a good sign



This post has been edited by aizielectreon: Apr 15 2022, 10:46 PM

Much better
Same temps when you were using the ID-Cooling AIO eh?

Ok la tu. Remember to watch the coolant level in the tank, it's normal for the coolant to evaporate after some time

yea this one much cooler, albeit just a bit.

i can get it lower by

-using SP fans
-using better coolant

maybe, just inference

does this looks normal?




i have installed 3x arctic p12 but the temp on load still 60ish.

Yep. Because you were using colored coolants before
You need to flush the system with lots and lots of distilled water

You can either take everything apart to rinse everything off. Or fill the reservoir with distilled water, let the system run with it for 15 minutes, then drain
Repeat the same steps several times until you see all the colored coolants is completely gone from the waterblock

Go youtube search GC Repair Channel......

the more you watch. the more you scare.

Thermal Damage VS Water Cooling Liquid Damage......


97% GC sold is air cooled. Mostly fine....

BUT Watercooled ..... leak a bit... direct GG

No pain, no gain

I for one hate seeing my 2080 Ti running at 85°C on full load when using air-cooling
Now with liquid cooling, my 2080 Ti maxes out at only 48°C ~ 52°C depending on the weather