same here....

about gathering.......where tp gather???
my house ah.... i ok with it...

rainingzero

u should look at him and smile then use ur full throttle......

dude, I salute you!!
you are so brave to go 120kph with stock tyre in rain!!!
Well, perhaps I've skid and fall once in rain on stock, tat's why I am so afraid of that Vee Rubber

Yeah, you can try with those mods first. If you have a lil more budget for labour cost, can ask the workshop to modify some wirings. Connect the CDI directly to the battery (a parallel circuit), so that you can get a 'clean' current. A better way is to use a Relay, so whenever the CDI is activated, it will draw current directly from the battery. The next one is to make a dedicated return path (ground) from the spark plug back to the battery negative.

There is also some engine related modification where we can polish certain parts. The labour cost is a bit more $$$, but from outside, police will NEVER know you have mod the bike before.   

Here's some tips on tyre setting, assuming stock setting (70/90F, 80/90R) is a neutral steer setting.

So...
Increase the front tyre width while keeping the rear tyre stock, we will get oversteering.

Increase the rear width while keeping the front tyre stock, we will get understeering.

I've tried 70/90F and 90/80R (lo-profile). The bike becomes slightly understeer, but I like this settings because I can open full throttle earlier during corner exit. However, due to slight understeer, going through consecutive S-curves need more braking skills (to shift the bike's weight to front and make the rear slides a bit).

For normal ride, js keep the front tyre as thin as possible. We only want the driving wheel (rear wheel) to have maximum grip on the road surface, so the power from engine can be transferred to the road efficiently. non-driving wheel adds extra frictional force to counter the acceleration.

hehe, i m pretty sure it will cause heavy understeer if the front tyre remain at 70/90. Good for big corner, but bad for tight corners and S-curves. If the engine is upgraded, then 100/80 is good, coz we can do power-oversteer to neutralize the heavy understeer behaviour.

got this from MBC, credit to bro fba76 for this useful info. sorry, no English version available. any effort to translate this post into English is most welcomed

rainingzero:
There is a K&N filter, model number BM1199. It is slightly bigger than stock air filter, need some modification to fit in. Price is $$$, near to 300 bucks. If you are afraid to damage your engine, check the air filter lo. You ketuk ketuk and see got a lot of dust coming out or not (especially sand)? If don't have, means you can remove it safely
After remove air filter, top rpm performance will increase. Try 2nd gear pull until 70kph and see got a rush or not

maybe got that "air rushing sound into ur carb"..
srootttt..srooottttt..

like that supercharged engine sound..

when air filter is there, normally we can feel very good acceleration up to 50kph+ only (2nd gear). After that, from 55kph --> 75kph feels like suddenly power loss. After air filter removed, should can feel better power near the top rpm region. Yeah, better use that RM300 for NOB1 SSS or ABM exhaust. Still got money leftover, maybe can upgrade valvespring for better high rpm power hohohoh.

haha.. i oso an ss owner before.
now its just put to rest oredi..( very fuel hungry..) only my cousin use it during holiday..

its faster than my lc actually.. i always lost when playing with them.. haish..

Today i go to see some footrest...
the racing boy cost rm300 ++......
Yoshimura more than that...... \

I think that's standard price la bro,
even Yoshi exhaust the cheapest one costs around rm1.3k,
and that was on offer during the previous moto GP event

even 1.3k is more than enough for engine modification..

Thanks Bro. 



There are 2 hoses under the bike, I believed on this for the battery water, anyone knows the other one is for?

Could i cut it shorter? Since it is too long.

Thanks

me also wonder what it is.

Hi guys, I have another cheap trick to increase bike performance.

It is a method to cheat our CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) using the TPS (throttle position sensor) mechanism.

The benefit:
1) increase rpm limiter from 8000rpm to 9500rpm or even more.
2) more acceleration
3) more responsive throttle

Workmanship should cost about RM20, but need to go to a pro shop, as not many mechanics know wtf is TPS.

If you know how to DIY, it is ZERO COST. I m a bit regret bcoz I know how to set, but didnt discovered this cheap trick before buying BRT Racing CDI