there is a kbd67 mkii hot-swap with black ink polycarb case currently on sale at mymkb mechmarket, https://www.facebook.com/groups/MYMECHMARKET/.

alternatively, just wait for next rounds of kbd67 lite or whatever 65% that meet your needs.
right. as long as the board is tecware phantom elite series, full-size or tkl (and not other models), you can do that. this is because in elite series, they use kailh switch sockets, instead of the outemu switch sockets in their previous models.

Try keys.my

Regret to inform you that, if you need things urgently, this might not be the best hobby for you. 

[attachmentid=10783679]
Just saw this by the way. If it's really urgent I guess you will need to buy it in person.

this is usually due to uneven wire tips, bent wire, or warped key caps. to solve this normally we try to make wire tips to point to the same angle and direction, tune the wire to be as straight as possible, then apply the so-called holee mod (reference videos about holee mod are as follows):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmOSSqpHAws
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDX-jwbqie4

here is another new one, called tailor's stab mod, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S61CynOwOc

basically all the above means to use soft material to make stab holes for wire tips smaller, so that the wire tips have less room for free plays. note that if the tape or thread is too thick or too thin, the result might not be what you want.

alternatively, you can also stick the foam/tape on top side of wire tips only, covering the whole tips. usually i just use 0.2mm eva foam with single-sided adhesive to do this.

edit: if you have a warped key cap, just soak the key cap into boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds, take it out and press both sides until it's cooled down. if this still cannot fix the warped key cap, get new ones that are straight.

yes you should always test different ways to fix issues

the part that no. 5 is the culprit might be possible, but unlikely imo. it's possible because the housings were not secured properly, or the switch didn't sit flush on the plate/pcb. (not because of it being too tight)

note that the wired and wireless pcbs use different firmware. other differences of the pcbs can be found at https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbd67-lite/...ducts/kbd67lite

outemu sockets limits to own switches, while kailh and gateron switch sockets support all mx style switches.

er not sure (maybe it's part of business decisions), but they are both ok imo

if the switch housing is made of nylon, it will give damped and lower-pitched sound. from the list, you have cherry mx hyperglide, and gateron milky yellow (ks-3 variants)

alternatively, you can look for sp-star meteor, also with nylon housing (57g, 67g)

pc and uhmwpe housings make higher-pitched sound

sp-star meteor is a relatively new switch, debuted since last year. sp-star is the result of the collaboration between japanese (design) and china (maker) to make switches for korean boards (leopold). they made kon-momo and nana, and the currently hot selling cyborg switches also (the one with housing that glows in the dark. literally)

yes, you can say it's underrated, because most people are still in the hype of jwk recolored haha

in Malaysia, afaik you can contact quovadis123, keys.my.

oh kon-momo has clone? i'm not aware of that. just be careful

maybe you just need to wait for them to restock. i'm ok with white. it's really softer.

in terms of switches, i suggest you get exposed to more, from different brands if possible. (cherry, gateron, kailh, jwk, and sp-star at least)

they all have different sound and feel, and some uniqueness (in the details; at first glance they look the same) just do this progressively. it's good when you decided to proceed with frankenswitches hehe

online research is one thing. first-hand experience is more practical and important. it's better for you to use a switch as reference point (for linear, i use cherry mx red), so that you can differentiate differences of these switches.

nice yes sp-star meteor is pre-lubed. you can use cotton-buds with alcohol (IPA) to clean it up.

edit: first-hand experience is the only way for individuals to get the actual ideas like switch top wobbles, stem wobbles, smoothness, spring noise, etc. (everything is relatively compared to reference switch). eventually you will get clearer ideas on what you actually want.

lubed cherry mx red is much better for me. well, it's just preference, all good

yes, the process of switch lubing is usually taking more time. i can only do 10 switches at a time, before my patience runs out. i always start with breaking in with a modular board; then open them up, start lubing with bottom housing (side rails, center pole, leaf), spring, slider, and then top housing, if necessary. finally, test them for relative consistency. try to get everything right before soldering, so just take your time.

i know some people can lube switches much faster, but i suspect they have skipped a lot of steps to achieve that. the outcomes are usually a hit-or-miss from my experience if i do it fast hehe

If you like that colourway, you might like GMK Parcel. GB in 2 months.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111819.0

Gosh! THANK YOU!!