Redragon typically uses Outemu switches, and their "hot swap" are typically for Outemu switches only which have a smaller pin size and isn't compatible with switches of other brands. Also, Outemu switches seem to tend to develop chattering earlier than other brands, but other than that, I would say Redragon might be "better" in that you can still learn to tune your board since it's hot-swap, and it typically uses a standard ANSI layout if you want to venture down the keycap path too.

In terms of fitting your criteria, the Redragon:
Full-size keyboard with Numpad
Dedicated media/extra keys, a volume knob would be a bonus
Future switch swapping if possible (although not a must, as I'm not sure if I would get into the whole upgrading in future or not, but allowing it would be good)
Single colour LED lighting (not a fan of multicoloured lighting) [Basically because typically RGB have issues with displaying proper white lighting]
Budget rm300

If you're looking for a reliable keyboard to use without doing anything else (coz there's really nothing much you can do other than tune the stabilisers) to it, the G610 seems like a decent choice that fits your criteria. The only issue with it is a VERY non-standard layout and getting replacement keycaps for it might be a little difficult, especially that flipping 5.75U spacebar that nobody else uses.

In terms of fitting your criteria, the Logitech:
Full-size keyboard with Numpad
Dedicated media/extra keys, a volume knob would be a bonus
Future switch swapping if possible (although not a must, as I'm not sure if I would get into the whole upgrading in future or not, but allowing it would be good)
Single colour LED lighting (not a fan of multicoloured lighting)
Budget rm300

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jun 30 2020, 04:33 PM

GK61 has no PCB mount stab holes on both left and right shift. Only backspace, enter, and spacebar has holes for PCB mount stabs.

2.25U should be still OK, but, can't say the same for that 2.75U right shift

It's a "common" issue called chattering that happens when the contacts in the switches wear out (prematurely). I would recommend getting it sent in for RMA/warranty if it's still under warranty. If it's out of warranty, it could be repaired by replacing the switch.

I hoped you used some kind of blower instead of physically blowing into it. Our breathes has water vapour in it, technically accelerates the oxidisation process.

I would say pretty unlimited if it's a good, properly made PCB, provided you do it right with the right tools. I've used a dead Razer as a "switch leg solder cleaner" for countless times of soldering and desoldering (just to get switch legs cleanly desoldered after desoldering from unleaded solder boards) and the pads are still intact, no signs of damage.

If you had used some form of contact cleaner, it's fine, just don't go blowing our breath into the switches, albeit, it's a common mistake most of us do.

Can't say for sure coz I had never had a Romer-G keyboard on my own use but Cherry had been quite reliable on me, but, yeah, sometimes there are "duds/lemons" that wear out prematurely, really depends on the use condition I guess, dust, moisture etc does increases the chances of corrosion.

Thanks for the recommendation!

Repairs I do typically charge per key unless there's a lot and would charge a flat rate for desoldering/soldering fees, but since you had bought some switches and that you're willing to try, yeah, I guess can go ahead.

Those are plate mount stabilisers. Nicknamed panda coz of the colour scheme. Think it was black housing with white stem and gold wires.

Would say Everglide, but they have an issue with wires popping out sometimes. You just gotta match the wires to the housings to see which side fits better. I would say it's a manufacturing tolerance issue.

As for the gold plated wires? Well, it's like wearing a flashy underwear where it can't be see when you put on pants. They don't really do much, perhaps, a little better in corrosion resistance since they are plated, but yeah, honestly, no difference.

Glad it helps. Although, the explaination was somewhat, crude.

Hope to hear from you soon then.

You can customise your keycaps for most mechanical keyboards (except low profile or some weird shit switches like Romer-G or ALPS or Kailh Choc), heck, even some mecha-membrane uses Cherry style keycaps and allows keycap changing/customisation too.

While what horns mentioned is really good advice, just a note about this method, silrave DO NOT blow using your breath, technically our breath contains quite a bit of water/vapour in it and might cause oxidisation to happen on the contact points in the switch. A lens blower would be the safest if you want to blow some air to clear off dust.

I guess it depends on the form factor you're looking for. No ideas of any TKL that comes standard with Cherry MX Clear that's readily available in Malaysia right now, but I did see some Ducky Miya Pro (65% form factor) with Cherry MX Clear in readily available stock.

Not sure how you intend to "lube without desolder", but that's a great way to ruin a good keyboard. Especially if you're buying into that spray lube hype.

Yes, almost forgotten about this other method since most people are raving over the oh so convenient method of using spray lube. However, while this method does make a difference, I think it misses out on one of the more important aspects of properly lubing a switch, the springs. Most springs in stock switches make some form of noise (spring ping or spring crunch) and friction which impacts the overall sound & feel too. But, yeah, without a doubt, to desolder and solder just to lube would be a hassle for most people and hence I would always advice starting from a custom kit unbuilt instead of starting with a built kit, unless, of course, the things you want is not commonly available in custom PCBs.

Backspace is standard 2U, Del is non-standard.

Kinda curious what you meant by "bar" though

Can't comment on that keyboard on whether it's "OK or not", but, typewriter style keycaps would be pretty difficult to type on.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Nov 13 2020, 10:41 AM

Interesting stuff.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Nov 20 2020, 11:12 PM

If you want something non flashy and of decent build quality, look for Leopold FC750R. It's around your budget and there are models with red switches.

Just go with anything obtainable, in this case, Leopold. Comparing Leopold around RM500+ and the unobtainable Filco, Filco comes with ABS keycaps while Leopold comes with double-shot PBT and Cherry plate-mount stabilisers which will be easier to change keycaps later on.

Not trying to sound rude, but, best of luck on that. it happens every single time. A restock batch arrive, and all sold out or all hoarded out within a month.

If you had used Krytox, it's durable enough to last quite a while, perhaps not the 20 years like they are known of, but definitely not necessarily twice a year, unless you are chasing that "freshly lubed" feeling/sound.

There's definitely a market of people offering lube services but pricing and quality is quite varied also.