As per title say, any sifu can recommend engine oil for Myvi? 2008 version. Like what brands to use, synthetic/not. First time changing oil myself.

5W30 fully synthetic
10W30 semi synthetic

I drive same year 2008 Myvi 1.3 Ezi. 12 years old car don't change to thin oil. Keep it at 10/30 or 10/40 semi synthetic. By this time all the gaskets and seals would have hardened. Leaks will appear.

Only last month i changed the valve cover oil seal/gasket set. Bottom has some leak that seems to come from where gearbox & engine meet. That also needs to be changed.

So if you have been using 10/30 or 10/40, just keep using that. Do remember that once you change to fully synthetic, it would clean the carbon build up at the gaskets that actually seal the leaks. And you get leaking engine oil on floor.

I kena with my old corolla and also this myvi. Was using semi syn all the while and changed to fully and oil leak. hahah.

Cuz this Myvi I bought secondhand in less than 3 months. Don't know what ex-owner use.

Btw, how much usually 10/30 10/40 will cost?

10W40 is typically a semi-synthetic that's good for oil change interval of 10000-12000 km , IMO .
I did 15000 to 16600 km with a Euro ACEA A3B4 spec'ed Total 10W40 .

10W30 is typically a mineral oil, an ACEA spec'ed oil would be good for 7000-10000 km easily , IME .
Unfortunately it is not available where an Euro 10W40 semi-synthetic is always available at Aeon Big/Giant/Tesco etc at a promotional price point of RM80-100 per 5 Litre pack .
Heck, you can always get fully synthetic (0W40 or 5W40,5W30) at RM100 from time to time from supermarket promotions .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 1 2020, 10:23 AM

His car is used 12 years old with unknown service record. No way i would recommend oils so thin. 10/30 or 10/40 semi synthetic would work the best. Those new gen super thin oils are made for new gen engines with really high tight tolerance. If the engine was rebuilt, yes no problem. But this is 12 years old worn engine. You have to take into account material wear in the cylinder walls and piston rings. And also the higher detergent that suspends carbon/ sludge in the oil that seals the hardened oil seals/ gaskets.

0W40,5W40 ACEA A3B4/C3 are thin for a 12 yo Myvi whose manual calls for xW30/xW40 SM Ilsac GF4 ?
Wish you aren't joking ?

I'm afraid 5W30 ACEA A5B5 or A3B4/C3 is not 'thinner' than an xW30 SM Ilsac GF4 called for in the Myvi manual .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 1 2020, 12:38 PM

Because you never took into account engine wear! Those "specs" are for new known condition engines! If he uses that, 2 months down and the engine leaks, will you step up admit you were wrong? Dude i am driving the same car from 1st owner with same manufacturing year with 175000 km Odo and i can serious tell you the new gen oil will seep though the worn parts. Because i have documented 1 half years of what oil i used with specs and price and the leaks happened. And those detergents caused the leaks because it cleaned off the old crud that was keeping the oil in.

Do you even have a 12 year old daily driven car with you? I have a 44 year old corolla with even diverse engine oil and brand tested with 2 known overhaul did to it. And still causes the same problems when you upgrade or downgrade the oils. You just won't know what is holding the oil in until you changed the oil that did it.

The last question is, can you guarantee he would not face leaks from seals with those new gen oils? Can you?

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Feb 1 2020, 12:53 PM

Sorry, I would like to stick to the goal post(s) as set out by OP .
I can accept OP shifting goal post(s) though .

Any oil, cheap cheap. As long engine not dry, no issue at all. Pointless to spend much more, engine just need basic lube.

Chill guys

I have another question regarding the oil filter tho. To install/ change the filter will require the special oil plier or can just use hand? I read a few threads engine oil sell in 5 liter and car will take 4 liter only, European car got bigger capacity for 5 liter?

I think my Myvi is the same as netmatrix one. 2008 production, auto gear.

5W-30 or 5W-40 (Semi or fully syn)

If already got oil burning issue or less oil during oil change downgrade to 10W-40 (semi)

Recommended oil change intervals
Semi - 7k
Fully - 10k

You need a oil filter hub or cap to turn the oil filter out, need special tool..
Normal engine oil selling outside spare part shop are from 3~4 Liter for Perodua cars, just ask for 4 liter engine oil bottle when purchase as myvi will need around 3.5 liter of engine oil.

OP, you may consider this Shell Helix HX8 5W30 (which someone here bought online cheap) for the 12 yo Myvi .

It has an HTHS (High Temperature High Stress ) @ 150*C of 3.5 cP or more .
I'm sure Shell Malaysia would consider your 'guarantee' request , if you choose HX8 X .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 3 2020, 11:26 AM

I checked previous service record. Oil run is 86,200 to 93,200. Now is 94,000+ already. I think its better to stick with semi as netmatrix suggested.

Btw, I went to Shell, Petron, Aeon and Tesco today. Aeon got peroduo 4L semi 5W30 cost at RM109. Shell got semi 5W30 on promo at RM120. Tesco got 5W30 fully at RM120. I check shopee price and 5W30 semi is so cheap around RM60-80 range. Why so large difference?

Shopee got a lot of fake oil around, need to be careful.
Usually i go to trusted spare part shop to buy.
If you want to go for Perodua 4L semi 5W-30, road side spare part shop should be selling around RM70~80 range.

Using good engine oil is very important in maintaining the engine. If just need oil only then why don't you use cooking oil for your car? Cheaper.

Without going into details on what comprised of good and bad engine oil, you just need to know good oil have addictives that help make the oil work better or last longer. Once you put the oil in the engine it will get to work very hard in protecting your car engine. It is important to have good quality oil as bad oil will cease to function as lubricant and also other effects. Bad oil will cause engine wear and tear faster which cause the engine oil to leak as mentioned.

As a few expert said before, if you have the money change the oil every 100km. It is always good to have fresh oil. For cost reason usually people will just use the oil in it's recommended intervals which is semi-7.5k and fully-10k plus or minus few k. Some oil can go up to 15k but it's up to you to experiment.

For an old car like your myvi, it is true you should use something with higher viscosity. Recommended in manual is xW30 but you can use xW40 also. I stick to using 5W30 for my 2006 Myvi and it is working fine. However, I am testing out a few cheap local made oils. I would recommend using fully synthetic as it has better quality oil and additives. Last longer too so I don't need to change too often.

I am not going for known brands for fear of fakes. Lots of fake for perodua, shell, petronas, honda, toyota brand of oils. So go for brands that nobody bother to make fake.

If you search this forum, you can find people discuss about oil blotting tests. Over there you can find a few reviews from real users on oil quality.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4192241

Just settle for cheap. As long oil is there, engine be fine.

I went to a spare part shop I know today. The boss there give me Bardahl 10W sth can run 5K, cost RM60. I say dont want, then go with 5W-30 semi 4L from Perodua, slightly expensive at RM80. Stock oil filter RM8 and another oil filter cap wrench at RM12. Still have to look for the square L shape thing for wrench tho. Wonder why they don't sell together with the cap...

Well, overall cost higher than online. At least it's guaranteed genuine.

Btw, the worker asked if I needed air filter. I thought he meant the one for aircond intake which I just changed recently. Did Google just now and found it's the one at the engine bay. Normally need to change together with oil and filter or...?

No. Im not sure how long it can last but i always used to change once a year, just like the cabin air filter. Its cheap anyway

if it's dark and dirty, then needs to change....otherwise affect your TB just below the filter. Did the foreman shared the old filter with you?

I always use back Perodua 5W-30 Semi.

At this aged of car, many thing need to replace.

Gasket top and Roker valve gasket.
Compressor flush every 30 k km.
Air filter, cabin filter can replaced by urself.

Now I order spare part tru online platform.

This post has been edited by giftfre: Feb 5 2020, 09:34 AM

Perodua recommends engine air filter change every 40,000 km ,as someone suggested .
During my typical oil change intervals of about 15,000 km , my mechanic normally 'blow and clean' my air filter on his own initiative (Maybe ,he understands my preference or bias) .
Having said that, when my mechanic ever suggests changing the air filter (like RM25) I would always comply as it would have been in use around 60,000 km or more knowing he is being helpful not to waste .
Having gone through some used oil analyses (UOA's) and blotter spot tests , IMO engine air filters (and oil filters) are being replaced and changed ever so often ......

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 5 2020, 10:24 AM

Well, any branded (and Euro ACEA spec'ed) engine oil like Shell Castrol Total Elf Mobil ACEA AxBx or Cx etc from Aeonbig/Tesco/Giant is genuine IMO .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 5 2020, 10:29 AM

What's a roker valve gasket?

This. Some said Roker valve gasket or Valve cover Gasket

I just replace a APM Cooling coil (Gas leaking), Aircon pulley and Compressor oil system flushing.
Haiz shxt , for both of my car model Ezi 2007 & 2008.

this one is wak john aircond at kajang right?

yes, he gave me a big sticker but I didn't use it.
Truly expert in aircon, reasonable price.

I don't know if it's just me or what, but I usually drive long distance, say 6-8 hours regularly, in hot M'sian weather, as we all know it.
From my observation, if I'm using 30 weight oil, doesn't matter if it's mineral 10W-30 or semi/full synthetic 5W-30, as per recommended in the manual, during those long hours of driving, I can hear the engine revving 'rough', like the engine was suffering screaming arrrghhhh or something like that, hahah.
I do understand about the recommendation of oil weight in relation to the engine's clearance, but out of geramness about the rough revving sound, I changed to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, and walla, even after hours of driving under the blazing sun, the engine feels & sounds smooth, no straining screaming rough revving, the engine was like: "chill brah, I'm good".
And on one trip with my friend who's driving the new 2019 Myvi, that was using the centre's 0W-20, man.., the engine sounded so rough for a new car, screaming like it was dying..
That was my experience btw, so in terms of engine's clearance vs ambient temperature, I think the SAE engine oil weight recommendation in relation to ambient temperature does holding some truth.

This is good information from the point of user. Cause all these cars when they test in the lab usually in controlled environment. However, for cars like Perodua I am sure they would have tested them under Malaysia's climate. It is strange for the recommended oil to be not suitable for Malaysia environment. Anyway, it is best to stick to manufacturer's recommended oil rating. Change it to higher only if you know what you are doing like in this case.

I believe the 40 weight oil, because it is thicker, the engine will be quieter.

The lighter the oil is, the noisier it gets. Just try stirring water and stir honey. The sound is different due to the thickness of the liquid.

Always stick to manufacturer recommended. Thicker oil can leads to not enough oil flowing where it should be flowing. Especially for Myvi engine where they specifically said to use 0w20 or 10w30.

Sifus,

I need help. Yesterday I did oil change for my Myvi 2008. Using Pennzoil Blitz 5W-30. I read online this car only needs about 3.5L. The bottle is 4l. I filled until the Pennzoil left little bit but the dipstick level is only above .5mm from the minimum level dot. I inspected the car has no leak. Should I continue to fill? I worry the whole bottle really gonna fill in

uhh not expert but i changed my oil on my own before. try adding 100ml more and see if it increases higher than .5mm?

Yeah it did. That was a dumb question. I did overfill my Axia before so this time with Myvi I was scared when the bottle left little bit. Now the level is almost full.

Even dumber is that, my oil filter is not changed. I did not notice the filter is screwed so tight. Guess what, yesterday is a public holiday. I couldn't buy filter wrench. Today need to use car, no choice lor. I hate the mechanics for using those pneumatic drivers. Everything is bolted super tight.

Btw, Pennzoil Blitz 5W-30 is so powerrrrr. A full tank of gas, all tyres filled up, engine oil changed. OMG, farking smooth. Next up I need to change Iridium spark plugs also

This post has been edited by C0deXeus: Jan 2 2022, 09:17 PM

My wife myvi 2006 recently also start to see leaks at the bottom, think is the oil filter bracket o ring & the flywheel seal. Suspect due to change to fully synthetic with Esther engine oil, based on your experience

So, did u fix the leak or just change back to semi synthetic since its minor sip, bit those dripping leaks

That oil filter joint housing oil seal is common to leak. I changed it together with power steering pump seal, replace radiator hose set at same time. Pay one labour do many things & took half a day. But it is worth the time.

I am still using 5/30. But have switched to Toyota GF6A (latest) engine oil. Mechanic says really over kill. But i feel the engine gained some improvements here and there. No engine oil burn issue also. Already 4 oil changes with this Toyota oil so far. But it is getting expensive.

Engine now has vibration issues due to worn engine mounting again. This replace set has since been driven 140000 km. So it is worn already.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 7 2024, 03:14 PM

Yeah. My 2 Myvi (2007) and my Polo all using Mizu 5W40 full synthetic for years with no issue. Just buy online from their official store, cost around RM80 and lasts 10k km. No need to feel 'syiok sendiri' by using oils costing up to RM200 or more.

My car dugong vios, Was thinking just switch to semi synthetic oil n see if no more leak, then no need to change the seals.

This new toyota engine oil, is not those used by service center?

This post has been edited by Sean77: Jul 7 2024, 05:59 PM

Power steering pump seal got anything to do with those engine oil leaks?

I think is your engine oil leak previously, not engine oil burn issues.
After u fix the leak, oil doesnt reduce lo.. 😂

I have no idea if this oil is being used by toyota locally or not. It comes in steel can. I daring go try only. Just because it is latest oil even before it was sold in shopee. Saw at spare parts shop and tried it. RM120 since last year. But this year RM 138. I just buy to try. End up that since it is cheaper than Perodua ori fully synthetic, i might as well use this one. Now price went up, then would look at something else that i have used previously like Bardahl.

The oil filter housing leak was more than a year already. Original plan was to fix that issue. After open bumper only found out that the power steering pump is also leaking. Fix that also. Power steering oil also has darken somewhat. Now everything is dry and nice. Bot these parts are cheap like few bucks only. But to open up the bumper and radiator and all that is labour intensive.

The engine oil leak was not super severe. But it does stain the house floor every day. I only need to top up a tiny bit of oil every month. Can drive longer one. But have to clean the damn floor everyday really is tiring....

This year alone, already i spent almost 3k for this old myvi repairs. Haizzz...

Now already 320K km, saw some videos gotta change the timing chain pulak, have u changed urs?
I scared dont change, later engine need to overhaul etc

I also spent about the same since last year. Save a little money by buying the parts myself. Technically the chain will not break. It will be stretched though. Causing the engine not be smooth when accelerating or between gear changes. But nothing serious will happen.

The car is at 276300km currently. Of course if can change, then go ahead. Else can still drive as it is.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 7 2024, 10:15 PM

I forgot to ask, if change the oil filter housing seal, need to wait when changing to new engine oil? Or it can be done without draining the existing eo?

No need. But if you close to next service date then do 1 short. Else just go change the filter. Just the oil in filter gone. Not much actually, if you worry then add in a bit.

I kena that, as Proton also use the same oil filter supplier. I been doing this few times. No dare not use ori Proton filter. Waste of time & money change filter + labour in between my next service.