wira owner here.. originally is 1.3, then changed to 1.5 n now 1.6.. so which category im in?

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...=60&p=12335406&
check this out

i bet he will

nah, there is some jokers making fun of wiras.. by saying sohai wira along the thread

regarding the MIVEC thingy, as far as i know for 1st generation (wira/satria), MIVEC RS n normal version, as well as black n silvertop all is the same thing..
RS stand for Rally Sport which the car body is actually lighter compare with other (sacrificing some feature).. black n silver top merely for u to know which is newer i think.. MD is modulated displacement which means only 2 cylinder will be functioning at certain low rpm for fuel saving.. nontheless, all the 4G92 MIVEC has 175BHP as claim by mitsubishi.. reason why people is not goin for MD is because the ecu tend to be problematic n cost hefty sum of money to repair
regarding the bumper, i dunno coz i keep my car as stock as posibble

5.8k for MIVEC auto
0.7k for rear disc (needed to pass jpj)
0.1k for K&N look-alike air filter
0.7k for 2.0" exhaust twintip
0.7k for 15" recond rim with new tyre
1.75k for installation

total 9.75k for tranplant
that is for Auto.. for manual? for sure more than that coz i've inquired manual for 6.5k on average.. i choose auto coz my place always jam
n i love auto

it is 4G92 MIVEC
read above post for that the forum talking about

ya, n it is AUTO
damn, my foreman charge me another rm250 for changing the 2nd gearbox coz the 1st gearbox slipping at gear 3 n 4

yes, not included.. any runner here who can do for me

i juz changed less than 2 weeks.. btw, the gearbox originally come with halfcut does slip then change to another unit liao..
maybe ned to install ATF oil cooler for some sort of insurance
sometimes while cruising at 5k rpm on gear4, i tend to push to '2' instead of disabling the overdrive to change gear3

brand is lubrimaxx.. what grade i dunno :s


1.5 only 3gears gearbox.. mana ada od
thats y im not used to off the OD thing instead, i push it to 2 haha

press the pedal till the max = super high FC
changing gearbox for a carby car = more money n not easy
better juz spend more to change whole halfcut to EFi

woooooooooooooooooootttttttttttttttttttt!!!!
my 1.5 really no OD
i thought all proton 1.5 n below only 3gear? if that is the case, what is the od for?

o ic, evo engine higher so ned to change the light, bumper n all the accessories to evo looks eh

icic.. the lamp also rite? original wira lamp too large or small?

nah, save ur time, energy n money.. juz shift down 1~2 gears from ur current gear n press approx half then sure ok.. if u insist, drop in ur air filter

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Added on July 7, 2007, 1:31 ammy car originally 4G13 also come with cruise control
but has been disabled since 4G15.. even now MIVEC 4G92 also talak.. they say no use coz makes u less alert.. or too alert haha

This post has been edited by imperialrealcs: Jul 7 2007, 01:31 AM

no, when u touch the damn bulb, ur finger will leave oil/sweat etc.. hence, when the light is at super high temp, the oil/sweat will boil n make the bulp explode

that is hell bad fc.. my mivec 1.6 can get 350km per full tank at rm60~70 region.. n that is when i activated mivec regularly n it is an auto

read above post
pdt can check ur engine stability.. in case anything wrong with ur engine, the device can straight away check for the problem rather than other mech who test items 1 by 1, thus wasting customer money

less than rm50

go for 4G92p or DOHC~

i can tell u 1 thing... when u go fast n u feel ur car vibrating hard, that is prolly come from ur tyre.. my car no vibrate at 170km/h using new 15" tyre n rim.. if it is rattle, then it comes from engine's mounting being spoilt

better go for waja, much better interior than wira

dont waste so much money on the so called stabiliser bar.. instead, go for better brakes, suspension etc.. if ur car is wira 1.3, try to change front solid disc brake to ventilated disc.. most also buy a front, fender, rear only.. others i heard is lebih punya

but the thing is, is the functionality of the bar obvious?
does that really help? if not, that means it is bad investment..
besides, those bar doesnt come cheap
like i said, make some survey for bars which delivers best performance.. no point getting room bar, lower room bar etc as it doesnt really help much

it is like saying why buy proton knowing the risk in teh 1st place

bumpy-ness caused by stiff absorber.. nothing to do with the bars.. but that definitely contributing to loose parts sooner or later.. like ngek ngek sound come from nowhere
removing power steering is the most 'powderful' changes i ever heard
no offence

of coz, anti roll bar is the most prominent upgrade for struts.. in the same time, the most expensive 1..

on driver side, behind the headlamp, below battery holder

gearbox for 1.6 cost 800 for used n 1000+ for recond

auto is listed as above.. manual around 1.2k