Hi guys so few of the power sockets at kitchen area is not working and since the wiring is inside the walls (covered by fixed cabinets and tile) i have no choice but to pull new wiring.

The MCB is in the kitchen area and these sockets provides power to oven, microwave, and air fryer.
The MCB still have empty slot so i want to know is it possible to add extra fuse (is that the correct term?) And pull wire from there?

Its much better than to share with other fuse right? Considering i have to find out what other appliance/sockets that related to that particular fuse.

If its not a good idea then i have to pull wire from other wall socket (original was also looping from other socket).

p/s: there are no burnt fuse as previously that few sockets were sharing with other sockets was having problem and i had replaced it. Although this time the sharing sockets only part of it prolblem so i guess one part of the wiring in the wall having prob.



This post has been edited by WaCKy-Angel: Oct 12 2020, 03:50 PM

<If can engage electrician, Safety first>

Hi guys so few of the power sockets at kitchen area is not working and since the wiring is inside the walls (covered by fixed cabinets and tile) i have no choice but to pull new wiring.
<sometime it could be just the 3 pin socket faulty, not the internal wiring. if indeed its the wiring, then you can reuse the MCB of the faulty wire and no need to use empty socket.>

The MCB is in the kitchen area and these sockets provides power to oven, microwave, and air fryer.
The MCB still have empty slot so i want to know is it possible to add extra fuse (is that the correct term?) And pull wire from there?
<Its call MCB... yeap can add. Do note some of the MCB in your DB Box are for light.. those C10. If can reuse the older MCB slot so to save cost. as above.. >

Its much better than to share with other fuse right? Considering i have to find out what other appliance/sockets that related to that particular fuse.
<Normally at MCB its not sharing, the sharing start somewhere else. Also if can please do find out where the MCB is linked to so you can judge whether the end link is safe.>
If its not a good idea then i have to pull wire from other wall socket (original was also looping from other socket).
<depends on the link, and usage.. loop is safe if done well and within the MCB tolerance level>

p/s: there are no burnt fuse as previously that few sockets were sharing with other sockets was having problem and i had replaced it. Although this time the sharing sockets only part of it prolblem so i guess one part of the wiring in the wall having prob.
<Sometime its just bad connection and also wear and tear. As long as the wires from the MCB is fine and work well, then no need to rerun wiring or get fresh run. Some electrician can even help you rerun the internal wiring provided its done well previously with piping and such.>

Need to revisit this again after abandoned for over 1 year lol.

Just to recap, 4 wall plug not working (all 4 sharing single wiring from another location, the other location still working).
What im looking at is to do new wiring direct from main fuse to these 4 wall plugs that powers microwave, air fryer, and an oven.


So i've asked electricians to come to give quotation(s) so this is what i get.







So i think it does not worth to pay so much...and i could DIY but there are 2 problems that im not sure.

Problem no.1 is when i look at the existing MCB, there is only 1 wire on the top of the MCB and im guessing that is the Live wire?
So if i add new MCB and connect 1 wire on top of MCB to the wall plug, where do i get the Earth and Neutral wire from?

Is it from the top here? I saw the top left all the wires are GREEN (Earth) wires and on the right side is all BLACK (Neutral) wires??
If yes, can i just add new wires from these to the wall plug?
And does it matter whether i add new wires on the existing used hole or need to use empty hole? If u can see some holes are empty and others have more than 1 wires.



Problem no.2 is the MCB copper bar has got no extra slot.
Can i just buy short copper bar and extend the existing bar? or its better to change whole bar?
This is what i need right?
https://shopee.com.my/Single-Phase-MCB-Copp...2704.2536352770

Noticed my currect setup coper bar has no shield? Is that safe? I think better change the whole bar am i right?

This post has been edited by WaCKy-Angel: Oct 12 2020, 03:42 PM

Btw side question, see the existing MCB some is C10, C16, C20, C32 i understand higher consumption stuffs should use higher amp right?
Short googling says C10 can support like 8 lightings so my question is should i just use the highest possible like C32 for everything?

I bought the place 2nd hand and did not re-do whole house wiring, just added alot points and lightings i actually did not want looping but after the job done only i found out many wiring are looping so should i change all the MCB to higher just to avoid tripping?

if not sure you better let the pro done for you. Safety first bro. C32 mostly use for ring wiring. C10 MCB should support much more than 8 light depend on load. Yes correct MCB depend on load but you should also look the wire itself. Ex 1.5mm wire but drive high load the wire will become hot then burn (litar pintas)

Idk but it looks very simple. im guessing if i dont touch the main power line from outside, make sure the main MCB and secondary MCB (yellow and green switch here...what do u call it??) is switched OFF then there will be no more power even if i touch any internal Live wire.

I've changed few spoilt MCB that way so im quite confident i guess.

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Atta...ost&id=10627860


What is ring wiring btw? u mean looping?

This post has been edited by WaCKy-Angel: Oct 12 2020, 06:03 PM

Direct from DB all the way to new sockets.
The DB busbar can easily handle. If you add on things to existing sockets the existing cable may not be enough to support the higher load and will cause faiya. And because usually developers give just enough, there is not enough room for you to add on so many heavy devices.

When you're there, change the MCB all to one same brand. Different MCB will make the busbar teeth to not contact properly, just like you can wear other people shoes but it won't be a good fit.

The same wire size used both C20 and C32.
The C32 MCB will probably never trip at all after the whole circuit melted.
Maximum you should ever go is C20 with 2.5mm cables.

The same wire size used both C10 and C16.
If those are lighting circuits, C6 is more than enough.
Overrating MCB means that the MCB will not trip when the cable overload. In other words, the cable becomes the fuse. Only that fuses blow safely, cable overload catch fire je.

Function of MCB, is to protect the cable from catching on fire.
Function of electrician, is to keep those who don't know what they're doing, to be safe. You will need tools like multimeter, insulated screwdriver in the trade as well as the professional knowledge that they know what they are doing. In the electrical trade, there is no guessing. The basics must know else sayonara.

The busbar is a very cheap item [https://shopee.com.my/63A-1-Pole-Copper-Pin-Prong-Type-MCB-INSULATED-Busbar-i.61390848.2446790793]. Please change the whole thing as you introduce one more failure point if you install multiple busbar in the same hole as the next neighbour will not fit nicely.

Why noone uses different brand of MCB is because the X-and-Y (Y=physical MCB height and X=where the holes are located) are NEVER the same for different brands.
This is why I ask you to change all to the same brand. Since you use maxguard, change all the rest to maxguard.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 12 2020, 11:14 PM

Just because it is off doesn't mean it is off until verified and tested with a (known good) test pen. Electricity does not discriminate, sometimes there can be current leakage on the neutral wire as well. Or some people connect the whole thing wrongly (live and neutral swapped). The light switch still works as normal even though colour code wrong.

your kitchen DB box MCB s are most rated wrong .. i guess.
32 A? 20 A so many ? 11 mcb s ? you can tell where each go to
you need to buy the correct rated MCB . so better to change all now
EPS mcb cost 4 rm a piece.

is the present wiring rated for 32 A ? is it pull from the Main DB or or some nearby plug point.

at DB box
wire to mcb is live
the left have a bar / green wires is earth .
the right bar /black wire is neutral;

not sure why you have faulty mcb s ... they usually last like 15 years or more.



This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 13 2020, 05:37 PM

Thats why im wondering whether its better to use 32 or need to calculate ngam ngam makan..

TBH the MAX GUARD should be over 20 years old already. It wasnt changed during renovation when i bought the place. Those are the ones starting to trip i changed 3 within past 1 year.

So means i need to pull new Live wire from new MCB, and 1 each from the top left and right to connect to wall plug right?
Does Neutral and Earth wire need to calculate thickness as well?
Im planning to get 4mm for Live wire as per the electrician quotation.

11MCB is alot? I noticed each MCB only has 1 wire on top so im guessing its not good to have 2 wires on 1 MCB is that right?
Otherwise i could just add a new wire into one of the C32 MCB to Oven?

This post has been edited by WaCKy-Angel: Oct 13 2020, 06:50 PM

11 MCB means you have 11 loops . to 11 outlet . i guess you have water heater here too.

2 wire / 1 mcb is OK but you must know what appliance is on the end of it. / need to current use.
normally small current device is OK.
some house loop about 3 13A point to a mcb ...thru 1 wire... so you never know ..!


not sure what is your oven power rating ? need to see this .

http://ocw.ump.edu.my/pluginfile.php/11228...al%20Wiring.pdf





This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 13 2020, 07:50 PM

From visual inspection unless you are using 4mm wiring do not use 32A MCB because you will burn down the house if any short happen.

Using wrong MCB rating is hazardous for your safety. This MCB rating thing is not like buying a honda accord 2.4 or 3.0 bigger is better, that is for car engines.
For MCB it is to limit the current going through your wire. Hence the standard use is up to 20A MCB because the standard wire size for 13A sockets is using 2.5mm which can tahan up to 21A.
Because your redline is 21A
So you limit the max amp to 20A with 20A MCB, engine will not blow.

Because in the case where the same redline is 21A
You tekan way beyond redline to 32A
Engine blow!

32A is only for special use circuits like commercial/industrial oven/electric hob which required a custom 4mm (or better) wire which from the photo it doesn't seem evidently thicc.

You do not want this to happen (electrical fire). This can be prevented very cheaply,
by using a fresh set of MCB because the technology has advanced over past 20-30 years and the metal inside the old MCB also may be hard to trip - if its sticking when you off it you should replace it.
MCB is very cheap.

LNE should use all the same size wire. It is illogical to wear shoes of wildly different sizes like size 4 and size 10 for the same pair of feet.
L is what goes up
N is what comes down
E is emergency exit


This happened to my friend's house in March this year.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 14 2020, 12:26 AM

So the electrician says use 4mm wire for oven that is not actually required?
Would it be better to use 4mm than lower one?
Is C16 enough for oven, microwave and air fryer simultaneous use?

Uh.. renovation easily 5-figures job, surely MCB parts that cost like RM100 should be changed. Consider it as 20 years' fire insurance
MCBs don't last forever (dust stuck inside, intermittent contact, metal spring become weak). So strongly recommended to change for stable power.

11 MCB is not a lot. All power sockets should be dedicated line. You can even have 100 MCB to connect 100 circuits of RGB LED lights up to the TNB supply limit of 63A.
Newer homes nowadays comes with around 20MCB for condo, if expanded with RCD for WH and other chunky component like surge protector can be >30 slots in the DB box.

It is bad practice to share MCB with over one wire as one fault will disable both circuits.
DB box can be expanded if needed (just change new plastic box is quite cheap on material - but labor intensive to do) thats why electrician open price 200-300 for labour.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 14 2020, 12:35 AM

Ref. http://www.megakabel.com.my/A-1.pdf
4mm wire can support 32A load (13A x2 = 26A) i.e. max 2 sockets at full power if you install a twin socket on that line. No issue for two sockets per 4mm run.
Personally I run 2x 4mm lines for the kitchen power sockets (2 twin sockets = for total of 4 sockets capable of full power) since the distance from DB box to kitchen power socket is nearby.

For copper the more the better - use 4mm so when you want to do steamboat hotpot grill with friends over, no need to worry the wire get hot.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 14 2020, 12:45 AM