as i already written in my previous post enamel wont harm PS plastic it only harm ABS plastic .... and if u scare hard ware turpentine will spoil the plastic then get the color brands own thinner .... example if u using humbrol paint then use humbrol's thinner

also like others said go try out 1st ..... if ur excuse is dun have spare kit to test then test it on the left over parts which u cut out from the kit .....

This post has been edited by zero1st: Jan 23 2008, 12:45 AM

well for picking which to use really have to see the situation ur on ..... if ur kit's panel line area is flat, smooth and wide using marker will save u alot of time and hassle.... example last year bakuc champ rick dias kit the panel line was draw using the 0.02 marker save him alot of time .....

but if ur doing small, deep and complex area inking is the only way ....... example the machine detail on the kit u'll be either turn mad or super patient if u use marker to do it

so conclusion using both is the best

like what z3r0717 said to prevent bubbles when spray caning is to apply a layer of surfacer 1st on the kit then spray can also the reason paint thicken on edge is because u didt move ur spray can when spraying

This post has been edited by zero1st: Feb 17 2008, 11:56 PM

what i mean in moving the spray can is something like this



note.... only press ur spray at the side ....... do not what so ever press ur spray can when ur kit parts is in front of the spray can ....

and yes it look like wasting the paint but if u wan get good result thats the only way .....

z3r0717 - here is another way to make the clippers









funkaymunkay1985 - if u have done all the step and still goes wrong then i also dunno y liao ......

1 week is abit overkill liao la ...... lacquer normally dry very fast 1 ..... 15 ~ 30 min will be sure dry liao 1 ..... unless ur paint is very damm thick

ya la ..... topcoat also is under lacquer mar

..... the topcoat that boltguard talking is gunze topcoat right ??? .... if yes then right la

mr.hobby = Gunze

huh ..... Super Clear is oil-based .......the 1 in the bottle ger is lacquer wor .......
for topcoat can 1 i dun dare to answer cause i didt use it b4 ..... but what i use for topcoat is super clear

errr ..... Mr. Cement Limonene Type is actually same as tamiya extra thin cement ..... both normal cement which is Mr. Hobby Cement Deluxe and Mr. Cement Limonene Type have a diff applying ways ......

Mr. Hobby Cement and Deluxe is apply by applying both side of the parts then join together .... Mr. Cement Limonene Type is the otherway around, u join the parts 1st then apply Mr. Cement Limonene Type at the gap which is like letting the cement flow in .....

note ....Mr. Cement Limonene Type is NOT for cleaning purpose ....

errr ..... okie for the grey and white primer is just the same nothing special between both just that 1 is in white another in gray ....

if really wanna said the diff between the both is only grey primer is use because when u wanna color ur kit in white u surely wont use white surfacer right ?

for the white primer ler .... some guys if wanna get a more fresher color they will use white surfacer as base .... okie for this i'll explain abit more in dept ... if u wanna get a more fresher example red normally u need to spray a layer of white color as base then spray red .... this process will make ur red look more fresher and brighter then a base of diff color ...... so some guys will directly use white surfacer then spraying grey primer and then spray another layer of white .....

hope this explain the white and grey primer for u guys ....

yes .....

some note here guys .... if u plan to do ur kit a fix pose then it is okie to prime the whole kit just like that .... but if u still wanna pose the kit or move around then it is advice to separate all the parts then prime it ..... reason here is some times the joints area there u'll miss out some spot ( example if u prime the whole arm bending then when it dry and u bend back u'll see that u miss some spot at the joints there )

if u polish 1st then top coat then u'll be wasting the polishing effort ...... same like cars ....

ya no color 1 .... but after u spray liao u'll get uneven surface ..... the reason for polishing is to make the surface as smooth as possible like mirror ... so if u polish so hard like until the surface smooth smooth liao then spray topcoat then what for u polish right ??

be remind that those high grit sandpaper r only use for final finishing touch .... if u start sanding with them u'll be like rubbing a normal paper with kits

also u wont be able to avoid sanding without scratches .... the only way to fix them is slowly sanding it with higher and higher grit sand paper ( examples 600 > 1000 > 1500 > 2000 > compound )

hmmm ... this is my review for it ( was my 1st ab set )

pro:
- very very easy to use there r no setting for this guy ... just turn the power on thats it
- it is enuf for a normal oob
- air brush hand set is very durable and tough .... also it have a very big paint cup no need to always refill
- not very noisy
- very light

con:
- u cant adjust the air pressure .... so it is hard to do shading or other detailing with this guy
- no moisture trap .... so cant keep it on for a long run ...... ( but can delay the moisture build up by changing it with a longer tube )


if ur new to air brushing this guy is good and stable ..... but there is a limit that this guy can do so dun expect alot .... rm 550 is the normal price any cheaper its a good deal

last note ..... although that this basic ab set comes with a single action hand set u can still change it with others hand set like double action it fits well with others ...

then u better get the mini compressor form spraymax .... try log in zeroG ... there is some 1 selling 1 at a good price ( 2nd hand 1 la ) ... act fast la

for learning how to scratch build u need to know few thing 1st :

- how u want the shape to be like by draw it out on a paper in diff angle

- dissemble or flatten the design u drawn out ( flatten here mean like flatten a paper box )

- only then u can start cutting out the pla plate by follow the shape or drawing u have flatten and sticking it together

if u scare ur wasting pla plate then u can start of using paper of card board ...

i will wor ... if the after market parts is not the 1 in my mind i wan
and it is not a waste of time at all ... cause in the end it is still ur own scratch building